More Barn Find Chevelle Episodes

Detroit Muscle Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

Automotive Workwear
The Official Workwear of Detroit Muscle
Baer Brake Systems
Remaster Black Anodized Left Port 15/16", with bolt-on proportioning valve block to the bottom of the Master Cylinder
Classic Industries
1979-81 Trans Am Tail Lamp Assemblies
Holley
Fuel Pump, Electric, In-Tank, Retrofit Module, 60 psi, 450 lph, Gasoline, Returnless Style, Each
Hooker Headers
Headers, Super Competition, Full-Length, Steel, Ceramic Coated, Chevy, GMC, Car, Pickup, Small Block, Pair
Lokar
Dipstick with Tube, Engine, Braided Stainless Steel/Aluminum, Chevy, Small Block, Passenger Side, Each
Lokar
Throttle Cable, Hi-Tech, Polished, Braided Stainless Steel, 24 in. Long, Universal, Each
Lokar
Transmission Dipstick, Braided Stainless Steel, Natural, Firewall Mount, 4L80E, Each
MYCHANIC
Magnetic Pod Light
MYCHANIC
Tool Creeper, Tool Tray, Includes a metal landing pad to pair perfectly with the Magnetic Pod Light
Pertronix
Distributor, Flame Thrower Billet, Magnetic Trigger, Mechanical Advance, Black Cap, Chevy, V8, Each
Pertronix
Ignition Box, Digital HP, Black
Pertronix
Ignition Coil, Flame-Thrower HP, 45,000 Volt E-Core 0.02 ohm
Pertronix
Spark Plug Wires, Flame-Thrower, Spiral Core, 8mm, Black, 90 Degree Boots, Universal, L8/V8, Set
ProCharger SuperCharger
Chevy Serpentine Accessory Drive, Small Block and Big Block GM muscle cars including the 67-82 Camaro, 65-72 Chevelle, & 68-72 Nova, plus many more
Quick Fuel Technology Inc.
Carburetor, Q-Series, Gasoline, 850 cfm, 4-Barrel, Drag Race, Blow Thru, Each
Summit Racing
Water Neck, Cast Aluminum, Polished, O-Ring, 15-Degree, Chevy, Big/Small Block, Each
The Industrial Depot
INDUSTRIAL DEPOT - FASTENERS, HARDWARE, AND SHOP SUPPLIES

Episode Transcript

(NARRATOR)>> TODAY ON DETROIT MUSCLE THE BOYS ARE GOING TO BUTTON UP SOME DETAILS ON OUR '72 CHEVELLE BARN FIND, AND LEARN HOW TO MAKE YOUR ACCESSORY DRIVE WORK AROUND A BIG OLE NASTY BLOWER.

(TOMMY)>> HEY Y'ALL, WELCOME TO DETROIT MUSCLE. WE'RE BACK ON OUR SMALL PIECE OF AMERICANA THAT WE DUG UP OUT OF A SHED. IT'S OUR 1972 CHEVY CHEVELLE. NOW WE'VE INSTALLED SOME NEW WINDOWS, SPRAYED ON SOME BRIGHT BLUE PAINT, GOT SOME INTERIOR PIECES, AND A FEW SHINY PIECES OUT BACK.

(MARC)>> NOW THAT SHINY STUFF'S FINE AND DANDY BUT WHEN YOU'VE GOT 1,000 HORSEPOWER ENGINE UNDER THE HOOD WE WANT TO HEAR THIS THING RUN. NOW WE MAY NOT GET THAT FAR TODAY BUT WE'RE GONNA GET AS FAR AS WE CAN. WE'VE GOT A BELT DRIVE WE NEED TO GET ON THERE, CARBURETOR AND THROTTLE LINKAGE, A BRAKE MASTER THAT NEEDS TO GET BUTTONED UP, AND EVEN SOME HEADERS. NOW THERE'S ONLY ONE WAY TO GET TO THE FINISH LINE AND THAT IS TO START. NOW OUR POWER PLANT IN OUR OLD CHEVELLE MADE ALMOST 1,000 HORSEPOWER ON THE DYNO, AND A BIG THANKS TO THAT IS THAT HAIR DRYER LOOKING THING HANGING OFF THE BLOCK. NOW WE WANT THAT THING TO RUN LIKE HECK BUT WE ALSO WANT IT TO BE COMFORTABLE WHILE WE'RE RIDING AROUND IN IT. WE WANT IT TO HAVE POWER STEERING AND A/C, AND TO RUN THOSE KIND OF ACCESSORIES SOME TIMES CAN BE A LITTLE BIT DIFFICULT, AND THANKS TO PRO CHARGER ALL THAT HARD WORK HAS ALREADY BEEN DONE. THIS IS THEIR SMALL BLOCK CHEVY SERPENTINE ACCESSORY DRIVE KIT. IT COMES WITH ALL THE HARDWARE, PULLEYS, AND BRACKETRY THAT YOU'RE GONNA NEED SO THAT YOU CAN ENJOY THOSE CREATE COMFORTS. NOW FIRST THING WE'VE GOT TO INSTALL IS THIS SHORT SMALL BLOCK CHEVY WATER PUMP, BUT IF YOU NOTICE ALL THE WAY OVER THERE OURS HAS GOT AN ELECTRIC PUMP ON IT. SO WE'VE GOT TO DO A LITTLE BIT OF DISASSEMBLY FIRST. LUCKILY A WATER PUMP SWAP AIN'T NO BIG DEAL. WE'LL RUN OUT THE BOLTS HOLDING THE ELECTRIC ONE IN PLACE. THEN DAB A LITTLE SILICONE ON THE WATER PASSAGES TO HOLD OUR NEW GASKETS WHERE WE NEED THEM FOR THE MECHANICAL PUMP. WITH THAT DONE WE'LL SLIP OUR NEW PUMP IN PLACE AND GET IT BOLTED DOWN.

(MARC)>> THE NEXT THING WE'RE GONNA DO IS SWAP OUT THIS CRANK PULLEY WITH THIS NEW ONE. THE REASON WHY WE NEED TO DO THAT IS BECAUSE THIS PULLEY ACTUALLY CAME WITH THE SUPER CHARGER KIT AND IT HAS PROVISIONS FOR A VBELT ACCESSORY DRIVE, AND BECAUSE WE DECIDED TO GO WITH THIS SERPENTINE ACCESSORY DRIVE WE NEED TO RUN THIS PULLEY, AND IT DID COME WITH THE KIT. IT JUST TAKES A LITTLE BIT OF WORK TO GET THAT ONE OFF, PUT THIS ONE ON. LOOSENING THIS NUT WILL RELEASE MOST OF THE TENSION ON THE BELT. THEN WE CAN PUT A RATCHET ON IT TO FREE UP THE REST OF IT. BIG BELTS LIKE THE ONE FOR THIS SUPERCHARGER CAN BE A LITTLE STUBBORN BUT WE'LL GET HER PULLED OFF. UP NEXT IS THAT CRANK PULLEY. WITH THE MAIN BOLT OFF WE'LL PULL THE THREE SMALL ONES AND GET IT SET ASIDE. OUR NEW ONE REINSTALLS THE SAME WAY, JUST BE SURE YOU GET IT ON STRAIGHT BEFORE ANYTHING IS TIGHT.

(TOMMY)>> WE HAVE TO DO A TINY BIT OF ASSEMBLY HERE ON OUR POWER STEERING PUMP BEFORE WE BOLT OVER THERE ONTO THE BLOCK. WE NEED TO ATTACH THIS BRACKET, AND THEN WE'RE GONNA PRESS ON THIS PULLEY. WE'RE ALSO GONNA BE USING SOME OF THIS STAINLESS STEEL HARDWARE, AND WHENEVER YOU'RE USING STAINLESS STEEL BOLTS IT'S ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA TO USE SOME ANTISEIZE.

WE'RE READY TO PRESS ON OUR PULLEY NOW, AND I ALWAYS LIKE TO SPRAY IN A LITTLE BIT OF SPRAY OIL. THAT KEEPS EVERYTHING HAPPY AND PREVENTS ANY GALLING.

(MARC)>> WE'RE JUST ABOUT READY TO INSTALL THIS MAIN BRACKET HERE, BUT WE'RE REMOVING THIS IDLER PULLEY FIRST AND THAT'S BECAUSE ONE OF THE BOLTS THAT HOLDS THIS BRACKET TO THE CYLINDER HEAD IS BEHIND IT. SO WE'LL JUST SET THAT ASIDE FOR NOW, BUT THIS BRACKET IS REALLY IMPORTANT BECAUSE NOT ONLY DOES IT HOLD THE A/C COMPRESSOR AND THE ALTERNATOR BUT IT ALSO HOLDS THESE IDLER PULLEYS AND THE TENSIONER FOR OUR SERPENTINE SETUP. NOW THESE PULLEYS AREN'T YOUR RUN OF THE MILL PLASTIC PULLEYS LIKE YOU'D HAVE ON A LATE MODEL SERPENTINE SETUP. THEY'RE EITHER MADE OF ALUMINUM OR STEEL HERE. SO THESE THINGS ARE GONNA STAND THE TEST OF TIME. SOMETHING ELSE YOU MAY NOTICE, WE'RE UPGRADING TO ARP BOLTS TO STICK WITH THE THEME THAT'S ALREADY ON THE ENGINE. ALSO FOR THE DURABILITY. THIS SETUP MOUNTS TO BOTH THE FACTORY LOCATIONS ON THE ENGINE AS WELL AS SOME OF THE PRO CHARGER BRACKETRY THAT WAS ALREADY INSTALLED BY THE ENGINE POWER GUYS. WITH THE MOUNTING BOLTS TAKEN CARE OF WE CAN GET OUR LAST PULLEY IN PLACE. THE WE'LL WORK ON GETTING OUR A/C COMPRESSOR AND ALTERNATOR BUTTONED UP AS WELL.

THEN IT'S TIME FOR SOME BELTS. FIRST WE'LL TAKE CARE OF THE SERPENTINE THAT RUNS MOST OF OUR ACCESSORIES. THEN WE CAN GET THE SUPERCHARGER DRIVE BELT PUT BACK IN PLACE AND CINCHED DOWN.

[ drill spinning ]

(NARRATOR)>> COMING UP, LEARN HOW TO ATTACH THOSE PLUG WIRE ENDS ON A CUSTOM LENGTH SET OF WIRES!

(TOMMY)>> HEY Y'ALL, GLAD YOU MADE YOUR WAY BACK. NOW WE'RE PRETTY MUCH READY TO START THROWING SOME IGNITION COMPONENTS AT OUR OLD CHEVY. WE WENT TO PERTRONIX AND GOT A FULL IGNITION SETUP. THIS IS THEIR FLAME THROWER DISTRIBUTOR, COIL, PLUG WIRES, AND THIS NEW DIGITAL HP IGNITION BOX. NOW THIS THING HAS SEVERAL FEATURES TO IT. IT HAS THREE PROGRAMMABLE REV LIMITERS FOR LAUNCH, BURNOUT, AND TOP END. IT ALSO HAS AN EASY TO WIRE UP HARNESS, AND IT MAKES RIGHT AT 30 PERCENT MORE ENERGY THAN MOST OF THEIR COMPETITORS. NOW FIRST THINGS FIRST, LET'S DROP IN THIS DISTRIBUTOR.

ENGINE POWER NEEDED THEIR DISTRIBUTOR BACK, SO WE'RE JUST REPLACING THIS ONE EXACTLY WHERE THE OLD ONE CAME OUT, AND NOW WE CAN MOVE ONTO THE NEXT THING WE NEED TO TACKLE. WITH OUR COIL WE'RE GONNA MOUNT IT DOWN HERE OFF IN THIS HOLE, AND I KNOW IT'S KINDA HARD TO SEE BUT THAT'S OUR PURPOSE. WE'RE TRYING TO KEEP THE CAR TO HAVE AS MUCH OF AN ORIGINAL FEEL AS POSSIBLE, AND DOING THIS, IT'LL HELP HIDE IT A LITTLE BIT. [ drill spinning ]

(MARC)>> NOW WE'RE NOT QUITE READY TO MAKE OUR SPARK PLUG WIRES YET BECAUSE WE DON'T HAVE OUR HEADERS INSTALLED JUST YET. SO WE'RE NOT SURE WHERE THEY'RE GONNA ROUTE, BUT WE CAN MAKE OUR COIL WIRE BECAUSE WE HAVE OUR DISTRIBUTOR AND OUR COIL MOUNTED ALREADY. SO I'M GONNA SHOW YOU HOW TO MAKE THESE ENDS. WELL THE FIRST THING WE NEED TO DO IS GET THE WIRE THROUGH THE BOOT. SO WE'RE GONNA USE A LITTLE BIT OF DIELECTRIC GREASE HERE ON THE WIRE ITSELF, AND ALSO ON THE BOOT HERE.

IT HELPS IF YOU BEND THE BOOT A LITTLE BIT LIKE THIS. GET THE WIRE THROUGH. SOMETIMES YOU HAVE TO TWIST IT. IT COMES THROUGH LIKE THAT. THIS ONE'S ALREADY STRIPPED. SO WE'LL JUST TAKE THAT OFF, TAKE YOUR TERMINAL HERE, AND FOLD THIS OVER. YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT CONTACTS YOUR TERMINAL REALLY WELL. SO YOU PUT IT RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE. WE'RE GONNA USE OUR SPECIAL PLIERS HERE.

MAKE SURE THAT'S GOOD AND TIGHT. JUST GONNA CLEAN THIS LITTLE BIT OF FIBERGLASS INSULATION OFF. THEN YOU CAN PULL YOUR BOOT OVER. YOU'VE GOT TO TWIST THE WIRE TO MAKE SURE THAT THE OPEN END OF THE TERMINAL LINES UP, AND THAT'S IT. NOW YOU MAY NOTICE HERE MY TWO ENDS ARE CLOCKED ABOUT 90 DEGREES FROM EACH OTHER, AND I DID THAT ON PURPOSE BECAUSE OF THE WAY THIS LAYS UP AGAINST THE FIREWALL BACK HERE. THAT WAY IT DOESN'T BIND.

(TOMMY)>> NOW WE'VE GOT TO KEEP MAKING SOME HEADWAY ON OUR OLD CHEVELLE. SO WE'RE GONNA MOVE ON TOWARD THE HEADERS. THAT WAY WE KNOW EXACTLY LONG THOSE PLUG WIRES NEED TO BE. SO WE GOT A SET OF HOOKER SUPER COMPS. THEY HAVE AN INCH AND THREE QUARTER PRIMARY AND A THREE INCH COLLECTOR. THEY ALSO HAVE THE CERAMIC COATING ON THEM. SO NOT ONLY ARE THEY GONNA LOOK NICE BUT THEY'RE GONNA REDUCE THE UNDER HOOD TEMPS. IT COMES WITH ALL THE HARDWARE AND GASKETS THAT YOU NEED TO INSTALL THEM. NOW I GET TO DO THAT FUN PART.

(MARC)>> YOU'VE PROBABLY SEEN US INSTALL NEW FUEL SYSTEMS ON OUR PROJECT CARS, AND WE'VE REPLACED FUEL PUMPS AS WELL, AND YOU MAY NOTICE ALSO THAT SOME OF THE PUMPS LOOK DIFFERENT THAN OTHERS, AND THAT'S BECAUSE THERE'S DIFFERENT TYPES AND STYLES OF PUMPS FOR DIFFERENT APPLICATIONS, AND TODAY I'M GONNA SHOW YOU A FEW OF THOSE AND SHOW YOU SOME OF THE DIFFERENCES. THIS IS THE OLD SCHOOL MECHANICAL STYLE FUEL PUMP, AND IF YOUR CAR CAME WITH A CARBURETOR FROM THE FACTORY, CHANCES ARE IT HAD ONE OF THESE ON IT. IT'S VERY SIMPLE IN THAT IT IS DRIVEN OFF OF A LOBE ON THE CAM SHAFT THAT MOVES THIS LEVER HERE. THAT OPERATES A DIAPHRAGM INSIDE THAT SUCKS FUEL IN HERE FROM YOUR FUEL TANK AND THEN PUSHES OUT HERE UP TO YOUR CARBURETOR. THESE THINGS ARE GOOD ON MILD TO MEDIUM HORSEPOWER APPLICATIONS, AND THEY'RE EASY TO SWAP OUT. YOU CAN GET THESE UP TO ABOUT 200 GALLONS PER HOUR. NOW IF YOU'VE DONE SOME MODIFICATIONS TO YOUR RIDE AND THAT MECHANICAL PUMP'S JUST NOT ENOUGH ANYMORE YOU CAN ADD ONE OF THESE ELECTRIC FUEL PUMPS. THESE THINGS GO INLINE USUALLY ON THE FRAME RAIL, AND WHAT'S COOL ABOUT THIS IS IT'LL SUPPLEMENT YOUR MECHANICAL PUMP. THEY'RE PRETTY CHEAP AND EASY TO INSTALL. ANOTHER OPTION FOR AN INLINE PUMP WOULD BE THIS ONE, BUT THIS ONE CAN ACTUALLY SUPPORT THE ENTIRE FUEL SYSTEM. SO YOU CAN JUST ELIMINATE THAT MECHANICAL PUMP AND ADD THIS ONE. THE PROBLEM WITH THIS THOUGH, IT'S NOT BIG ENOUGH TO HANDLE HIGH HORSEPOWER APPLICATIONS. NOW IF YOU'VE GOT A CARBURETED APPLICATION, ESPECIALLY IF IT'S A MILD ONE, THOSE PUMPS WOULD BE FINE, BUT IF YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM, IF YOUR CAR WAS EQUIPPED WITH IT FROM THE FACTORY, YOU'VE GOT A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT TYPE OF FUEL SYSTEM WITH THE PUMP IN THE TANK. THIS IS AN ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP MODULE THAT CAME OUT OF A LATE MODEL MUSCLE CAR. THIS THING JUST DROPS DOWN INTO THE TANK, AND THE HAT HERE SEALS TO THE OPENING IN THE TOP OF THE TANK. JUST PLUG IT IN HERE AND THAT SENDS POWER THROUGH THIS WIRE DOWN TO THE PUMP THAT'S INSIDE HERE. THIS IS A GENERIC STYLE PUMP OFTEN REFERRED TO AS A WALBRO STYLE PUMP, AND THIS CAN JUST BE REMOVED AND REPLACED WITH A LARGER PUMP, UP TO ABOUT 450 LITERS PER HOUR, BUT IF YOUR CAR WASN'T ORIGINALLY EQUIPPED WITH EFI YOU CAN GO WITH ONE OF THESE. THIS IS HOLLEY'S RETRO FIT IN TANK FUEL MODULE. IT USES A WALBRO STYLE PUMP JUST LIKE THAT OE STYLE, AND IT'LL FIT JUST ABOUT ANY APPLICATION, BUT IF YOU NEED SOMETHING MORE THAN THAT YOU MAY WANT TO LOOK AT A PUMP LIKE THIS. THIS IS A BRUSHLESS PUMP, AND THOUGH IT MAY NOT LOOK LIKE IT, IT'LL HANDLE UP TO 2,400 HORSEPOWER. NOW DEPENDING ON WHICH APPLICATION YOU HAVE AND THE NEEDS OF YOUR FUEL SYSTEM, WELL THAT'S GONNA DETERMINE WHICH PUMP YOU NEED, BUT WE DON'T HAVE TIME TO GET INTO THAT TODAY. SO THAT'S GONNA HAVE TO WAIT UNTIL NEXT TIME.

(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT, THE DO'S AND DON'TS OF ATTACHING A THROTTLE CABLE.

(MARC)>> HEY WELCOME BACK. WE'RE GETTING OUR HEADERS INSTALLED ON THE CHEVELLE SO THAT WE CAN GET OUR SPARK PLUG WIRES MADE, AND PLUGGED INTO PLACE. ALL RIGHT, SO WE'VE GOT OUR SPARK PLUG WIRES DONE, AND WE'VE GOT OUR HEADERS IN AS WELL, AND NOW WE'RE GONNA MOVE ON, GET OUR CARBURETOR INSTALLED, BUT FIRST THING WE NEED TO DO, GET THIS PLATE OUT OF THE WAY. WE'LL BE USING STUDS ON THIS APPLICATION, AND THE STUDS ARE BETTER THAN BOLTS BECAUSE THEY'RE QUITE A BIT EASIER TO INSTALL. PLUS WE'RE GOING TO BE RUNNING SOME ADDITIONAL PIECES LIKE THIS SPACER, AND LINING THOSE HOLES UP FOR THE BOLTS CAN BE A REAL PAIN, AND THIS IS A QUICK FUEL FOUR BARREL BLOW THROUGH CARB THAT FLOWS 850 CUBIC FEET PER MINUTE.

(TOMMY)>> WITH MARC GETTING THE CARBURETOR IN PLACE, WE'RE SLOWLY BUT SURELY GETTING THAT CHEVELLE CLOSER TO BREATHING SOME FIRE. NOW I'VE GOT A TABLE FULL OF GOODIES THAT WE GOT FROM SUMMIT RACING THAT'S GONNA TAKE CARE OF SOME ISSUES THAT WE HAVE. IT'S KIND OF LIKE THIS OIL PAN DIP STICK. WE'VE GOT A TRANSMISSION DIP STICK, AN ADJUSTABLE WATER OUTLET CAUSE WE DON'T KNOW EXACTLY WHICH DIRECTION WE NEED IT TO GO, AND A HIGHLY ADJUSTABLE THROTTLE CABLE, AND THAT'S WHAT WE'RE GONNA WORK ON NEXT. WE'VE GOT TO DO A LITTLE BIT OF DISASSEMBLY FIRST BEFORE WE GET TOO CARRIED AWAY. WE'VE GOT TO REMOVE THIS CABLE, AND THAT'S REAL EASY. YOU JUST TAKE THAT SET SCREW OUT AND THEN SLIDE THIS ASSEMBLY OFF.

NOW WE'LL REMOVE THIS LITTLE NUT HERE, AND THEN WE CAN SLIDE THIS INTO THE BODY. NOW LET'S GO TO THE CAR. WE'RE GONNA USE THAT STOCK HOLE, BUT IF YOU NOTICE IT'S A LITTLE BIT SLOPPY. SO WE'RE GONNA USE THIS STAINLESS STEEL WASHER, AND THAT'LL FIX US RIGHT UP, AND THEN ON THE BACK SIDE I'M GONNA USE THIS STAINLESS STEEL WASHER AND THAT NUT THAT CAME WITH IT TO HOLD EVERYTHING IN PLACE. UP HERE ON THE OTHER END OF THE CABLE IS A VERY SIMILAR FASTENER THAT WE USE THERE ON THE FIREWALL, EXCEPT FOR THIS ONE SLIDES OFF. NOW WE'LL JUST SPIN THIS NUT OFF AND MOUNT IT HERE IN THIS HOLE ON THIS FANCY LITTLE BRACKET THAT I FABBED UP. NOW IF YOU'LL NOTICE, WITH THE LOCATION OF THIS HOLE, IT'S ON THE SAME PLANE AS THE STUD HERE THAT WE'RE GONNA ATTACH THE CABLE. NOW YOU DON'T WANT TO MOUNT YOUR CABLE TOO HIGH, TOO LOW, OR EVEN IN TOO FAR OR OUT TOO FAR BECAUSE WHAT THAT'LL DO IS IT'LL MAKE IT MORE DIFFICULT TO PULL THE THROTTLE BLADES OPEN.

THIS LITTLE FASTENER HAS GOT A LOT OF THREADS ON IT. I'D LIKE TO KINDA PUT IT IN THE HAPPY MEDIUM. THAT WAY JUST IN CASE LATER DOWN THE ROAD YOU NEED TO ADJUST SOMETHING WE'VE GOT SOME MOVEMENT IF YOU WILL. THIS CABLE'S WAY TOO LONG. SO WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO CUT THIS THING OFF. YOU ALSO DON'T WANT TO PULL THIS CABLE SHEATHING TOO TIGHT. LEAVE IT A LITTLE BIT LOOSE. LIKE I SAID EARLIER, IF YOU NEED TO MOVE SOMETHING AROUND LATER DOWN THE ROAD, YOU'VE GOT SOMETHING TO PLAY WITH. OPEN IT BACK UP JUST A TASTE. WITH IT CUT YOU CAN PUSH THIS COLLAR ONTO THE END OF THE SLEEVE, AND STICK IT IN. THEN WE'LL FEED THE THROTTLE CABLE THROUGH FROM THE INSIDE UP TO THE CARB. ALL RIGHT, NOW WE NEED TO SNAP ON OUR CABLE END TO THE STUD HERE ON THE SIDE OF THE THROTTLE, GET MARC TO HOLD THE GAS PEDAL ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR, AND WHAT THAT'S GONNA DO IS SIMULATE WIDE OPEN THROTTLE, AND WE'LL PULL THE THROTTLE BLADES BACK, AND WE CAN DETERMINE WHERE WE NEED TO CUT THE CABLE. ALL RIGHT MARCUS, GAS ON IT IF YOU WOULD.

(MARC)>> HERE WE GO! THAT'S IT!

(TOMMY)>> I MAY TO PULL THIS THING BACK. SO WE SHOULD BE ABLE TO CUT IT ABOUT RIGHT THERE. NOW WE'LL STICK THE END OF THE CABLE IN THIS LINK, AND LOCK IT DOWN WITH THE SET SCREW. WORK IT, SEE WHAT IT DOES. OH YEAH!

(MARC)>> GOOD?

(TOMMY)>> UMM HMM! NOW ONCE WE GET THE CARPET IN THE CAR IT MAY MESS WITH OUR THROTTLE JUST A LITTLE BIT BUT WITH THIS ADJUSTMENT BACK HERE WE CAN DIAL IT IN, BUT THAT'LL BE A LITTLE LATER DOWN THE ROAD.

(MARC)>> I WANT TO SHOW YOU SOME STUFF FROM A COMPANY THAT IS A GROUP OF CAR GUYS LIKE YOU AND ME CALLED "MYCHANIC". THEY MAKE A BUNCH OF COOL GARAGE STUFF LIKE THIS TOOL CREEPER AND POD/LIGHT COMBO. THE TOOL CREEPER KEEPS YOUR TOOLS AND PARTS CLOSE WHILE YOU'RE WORKING WITH THIS ALMOST TWO FOOT IN DIAMETER TRAY WITH THREE COMPARTMENTS. IT ROLLS OF COURSE, AND HAS A MAGNETIC RECEIVING PLATE FOR THIS POD LIGHT. THE LIGHT ITSELF ROTATES 360 DEGREES, COMES OFF TO FIT IN THE PALM OF YOUR HAND, AND HAS A HIGH LUMEN OUTPUT TO LIGHT UP YOUR WORK AREA. YOU CAN FIND THIS AT "MYCHANIC" DOT COM.

(NARRATOR)>> AFTER THE BREAK, MAKING SURE YOUR BRAKE PEDAL WILL WORK!

(TOMMY)>> HEY Y'ALL, GLAD YOU MADE YOUR WAY BACK. NOW THE NEXT THING THAT WE'RE GONNA DO IS WORK ON THE BRAKES. NOW I'M SURE YOU'RE THINKING THAT WE WERE GONNA GET THIS THING FIRED UP, BUT ACTUALLY WHAT WE'RE TRYING TO DO IS TAKE CARE OF THINGS UNDER THE HOOD THAT ARE A WHOLE LOT EASIER TO GET TOO WITH THE FENDERS OUT OF THE WAY, AND ONE OF THOSE IS THIS BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER. NOW ORIGINALLY OUR CAR HAD A BIG BOOSTER AND MASTER THAT STUCK WAY OUT HERE, AND WE WERE AFRAID THAT IT WAS GONNA INTERFERE WITH OUR AIR FILTER. SO WE'RE GONNA RUN JUST A MANUAL SETUP. NOW WITH THAT IT'S NO BIG DEAL, BUT WE ARE GONNA HAVE TO REWORK OUR BRAKE LINES, AND WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO CHANGE THE PROPORTIONING VALVE THAT WE HAVE. SO WE'RE GONNA USE THIS ADJUSTABLE UNIT FROM BAER. IT'S GOT A KNOB THAT YOU JUST CRANK TO INCREASE OR DECREASE THE AMOUNT OF FLOW, AND IT ALSO HAS AN IN AND OUT THAT YOU NEED TO BE AWARE OF. IT'S ALSO A GOOD IDEA TO MOUNT THIS IN AN EASY TO REACH LOCATION, AND LUCKILY FOR US BAER GAVE US A SPOT DOWN HERE ON THE BOTTOM OF THE MASTER. WE'LL USE SOME ARP BOLTS WITH SOME ANTISEIZE ON THEM TO FASTEN OUR VALVE DOWN. NOW WE NEED TO DO A LITTLE BIT OF PLUMBING. NOW THIS IS OBVIOUSLY GONNA FEED THE REAR, AND WE CAN RUN FROM HERE TO THERE, OR HERE TO THERE. WITH THIS PARTICULAR MASTER CYLINDER BOTH PORTS ARE THE SAME. THERE'S NOT A FRONT OR A REAR. NOW WE'RE GONNA SCREW IN A COUPLE OF FITTINGS. NOW THESE HERE CAME WITH THE KIT DOWN THERE ON THE PROPORTIONING VALVE, BUT UP HERE ON THE TOP, I DON'T HAVE THE CORRECT ONE. THIS IS ACTUALLY PIPE THREAD, AND THAT'S NOT THE CORRECT TIER, BUT WE CAN USE IT JUST FOR MOCK UP CAUSE YOU CAN SEE IT STARTS ABOUT A THREAD DEEP. THAT'S RIGHT! WELL WE GOT THE LINE FIXED UP AND OUR OTHER FITTING TO RUN TOWARD THE REAR. NOW LET'S GO AHEAD AND MOUNT THIS UP. THIS PART IS REAL EASY. A COUPLE OF FACTORY STUDS WILL MOUNT IT TO THE FIREWALL. NOW NORMALLY THE NEXT THING THAT YOU DO IS INSTALL THIS BRAKE PEDAL PUSH ROD IF YOU WILL THAT CONNECTS TO THE BRAKE PEDAL AND PUSHES ON THE PISTON OF THE MASTER CYLINDER. NOW TO SHOW YOU HOW TO ADJUST THAT PROPERLY IS REALLY DIFFICULT RIGHT NOW WITH THE DASH AND ALL IN PLACE. SO I'VE GOT ME A VISUAL AID HERE. GIVE ME JUST A SECOND. NOW IT'S JUST GOT A PIN THAT SLIDES THROUGH AND THAT HOLDS THE LITTLE CLEVIS HERE. NOW HOW YOU'D WANT TO ADJUST THAT IS YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT THE PEDAL IS FURTHER BACK HERE ON THE BOTTOM THAN ON THE TOP, AND WHAT THAT DOES IS THAT ALLOWS YOU TO PUSH THE BRAKE PEDAL, SHOVING THIS FORWARD. IF YOU DO IT THE OTHER WAY WHAT IT CAUSES IS WHENEVER YOU MASH THE BRAKE PEDAL IT'LL CAUSE THIS TO GO UP AND ACTUALLY BIND INTO THE PISTON AND THE MASTER, AND THAT WON'T ALLOW YOU TO DEPRESS IT PROPERLY. SO MAKE SURE THAT YOU'VE GOT IT LEANING FORWARD JUST A BIT AND YOU'LL BE IN GOOD SHAPE. WELL WE'VE GOT QUITE A FEW THINGS DONE IN THE ENGINE BAY TODAY AND JUST ABOUT GOT THE BRAKES SO THAT WE CAN BLEED THEM. I DON'T WANT TO TALK ABOUT ALL THAT. WE'LL SEE Y'ALL LATER.

IF YOU'VE GOT A '79 TO '81 TRANS AM, THEN YOU KNOW ONE OF THE ONLY THINGS CUTTING INTO YOUR COOL FACTOR WOULD BE THE FADING AND CRACKING OF YOUR TAIL LAMP, RUINING THE LOOK OF THE BACK SIDE OF YOUR RIDE. WELL CLASSIC INDUSTRIES HAS THESE GM LICENSE REPRODUCTION TAIL LAMP ASSEMBLIES WITH INJECTION MOLDED LENSES DESIGNED TO FIT AND INSTALL JUST LIKE THE ORIGINALS. IT INCLUDES STOP, TAIL, AND BACK UP LENSES, THE CLIPS FOR INSULATION, AND ALL THE CORRECT BLACK ACCENTS, BUT WE'RE ALL OUT OF TIME FOR THIS WEEK GUYS. SO UNTIL NEXT TIME, Y'ALL KEEP IT BETWEEN THE DITCHES.
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