More Barn Find Chevelle Episodes

Detroit Muscle Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

Air Flow Research
Cylinder Heads, Eliminator, Aluminum, Assembled, 75cc Combustion Chamber, 220cc Intake, Chevy, Pair
Automotive Workwear
The Official Workwear of Detroit Muscle
Dart
Engine Block, Cast Iron, 4-Bolt Mains, 4.125 in. Diameter Bore, 2-Piece Rear Main Seal, Chevy,Small Block,Each
Eagle Specialty Products
EAGLE SPECIALTY PRODUCTS CHEVROLET ROTATING ASSEMBLY W/ MAHLE PISTONS, MAHLE RINGS, KING BEARINGS
ProCharger SuperCharger
GM Universal Supercharger kit, High Output Intercooled with F-1D, F-1, F-1A (12 rib)
Quick Fuel Technology Inc.
Carburetor, Q-Series, Gasoline, 850 cfm, 4-Barrel, Drag Race, Blow Thru, Each
Single Source
Single Source Inc was founded in 1995 to establish a new standard in customer service within the collision refinishing industry.
The Industrial Depot
INDUSTRIAL DEPOT - FASTENERS, HARDWARE, AND SHOP SUPPLIES

Episode Transcript

(NARRATOR)>> TODAY ON DETROIT MUSCLE, IT'S TIME TO GET OUR PROJECT CHEVELLE INTO THE PAINT BOOTH AND PUT SOME SHINE ON IT. FIND OUT HOW A PAINT GUN WORKS, AND HOW TO SET ONE UP FOR A GREAT PAINT JOB. PLUS A MASKING TECHNIQUE FOR SOFT LINES, AND WE'LL GET OUR CHEVELLE BODY MOUNTED BACK ON THE CHASSIS.

(MARC)>> HEY EVERYBODY, WELCOME TO DETROIT MUSCLE. WE'VE BEEN WORKING ON OUR '69 DODGE CHARGER FOR A WHILE NOW, AND MOST RECENTLY WE UPGRADED THE FRONT SUSPENSION, STEERING, AND BRAKES, BUT IT'S TIME TO MOVE AWAY FROM THAT PROJECT TO ANOTHER, AND THAT'S OUR '72 CHEVELLE. TOMMY'S IN HERE IN THE BOOTH GETTING READY FOR PAINT.

(TOMMY)>> YEAH AFTER HOURS AND HOURS OF BLOCK SANDING AND BODY WORK WE FINALLY GET TO SPRAY ON SOME COLOR. YOU EXCITED?

(MARC)>> WHEN WE FIRST FOUND OUR CHEVELLE WE PULLED IT OUT OF AN OLD HAY BARN. IT HAD BEEN IN THERE FOR A COUPLE OF DECADES BUT WE HAD BIG PLANS. PART OF THOSE PLANS INCLUDED A WHOLE LOT OF SHEET METAL WORK IN ADDITION TO UPGRADED SUSPENSION, WHEELS, AND TIRES. OH, AND DON'T FORGET, LOTS OF SANDING.

(TOMMY)>> YOU MAY BE SITTING THERE THINKING ABOUT OUR CAR, THE WAY WE'VE GOT IT TAPED, THAT IT LOOKS KIND OF ODD AND DONE IN A WEIRD WAY. WELL WE'VE GOT A COUPLE OF REASONS WHY WE'VE DONE THAT. HERE ON THE INSIDE WHAT WE'RE TRYING TO DO IS PREVENT ANY DEBRIS FROM THE INSIDE OF THE CAR CLIMBING OUT AND GETTING INTO OUR PAINT JOB. UP HERE ON THE TOP SIDE YOU MAY NOTICE THAT THE EXTERIOR SIDE OF THE CAR IS TAPED UP. WELL THE REASON WE'RE DOING THAT IS WE'RE GONNA BE SPRAYING THE DOOR JAMS FIRST ALONG WITH THE UNDERSIDE OF THE CAR. NOW UNDER HERE WE ARE GONNA CLEAR COAT IT ALONG WITH THE FIREWALL BECAUSE WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO MARRY THE CAR BACK TO THE CHASSIS, AND THEN ASSEMBLE EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER. WELL TO DO THAT THERE'S A REASON FOR THAT. OUR CAR ITSELF, WELL IT'S GONNA GO METALLIC AND WE WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT ALL THE PANELS MATCH. WE DON'T WANT TO PAINT IT SEPARATELY AND THEN HAVE A DIFFERENT COLOR QUARTER, DOOR, AND FENDER, AND HOOD. SO THIS IS THE PROPER WAY TO DO IT. WE'VE GOT JUST ABOUT ALL THE TAPING DONE HERE ON THE CHEVELLE EXCEPT FOR AROUND THE DOOR OPENING BECAUSE WE'RE GONNA BE USING A TECHNIQUE CALLED BACK TAPING. IF YOU'LL NOTICE HERE ON THE CORNER OF THE ROCKER, THE TAPE DOESN'T GO ALL THE WAY TO THE EDGE. NOW WE'RE GONNA BE SPRAYING ON A GREY SEALER AND THEN BASE COAT. NOW DOING IT THIS WAY WILL HELP PREVENT A TAPE EDGE. I'M GONNA USE THIS SMALL PIECE OF TAPE HERE TO DEMONSTRATE WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT. NOW YOU JUST PUSH IT DOWN HERE ON THE EDGE, KIND OF LIKE I'VE DONE THERE, AND THEN FOLD THE PIECE OF TAPE BACK. THEN YOU CAN SPRAY YOUR SEALER AND THE EDGE WILL BE NICE AND FEATHERED. NOW AFTER THAT DRIES YOU CAN COME BACK AND PULL THE TAPE OUT JUST A BIT, AND NOW YOU'RE READY TO SPRAY ON YOUR BASE OR YOUR COLOR. THEN AFTER THE BASE DRIES ON THAT ONE YOU COME BACK AND THEN PULL OUT JUST A LITTLE BIT MORE. YOU COULD CLEAR IT. THIS TECHNIQUE WOULD WORK. THE WHOLE POINT OF DOING IT THIS WAY IS TO PREVENT A HARD TAPE LINE.

THE FIRST THING WE'RE SPRAYING IS A COAT OF SEALER. THIS IS PPG'S DP 50 EPOXY PRIMER THAT'S REDUCED DOWN TO SPRAY AS A SEALER. NOW YOU CAN DO TWO COATS, BUT ONE IS PLENTY FOR US. THIS WILL GIVE US A SOLID FOUNDATION AND A UNIFORM COLORED CANVAS TO SPRAY ON OUR BASE COAT, AND SINCE THERE'S SOME OF THESE PANELS THAT HAVE RAW STEEL SHOWING WE NEED A TIE COAT TO GIVE THE BASE COAT SOMETHING TO ADHERE TO.

FROM THE FACTORY SOME CARS HAVE A TEXTURIZED COATING SPRAYED ON TO THEM IN CERTAIN AREAS. THEY USE THIS BOTH AS A SOUND DEADENER AND TO HELP SEAL UP BODY SEAMS. WE'RE SPRAYING A TWO PART RUBBERIZED COATING TO SIMULATE THAT. IT MAY LOOK A LITTLE PRIMITIVE BUT WE'RE GOING TO SPRAY BODY COLOR OVER IT AND IT WILL LOOK REALLY NICE. OKAY GUYS, THE TIME TO SPRAY ON COLOR IS DANGEROUSLY CLOSE, BUT BEFORE WE GET TOO CARRIED AWAY I WANT TO SLOW DOWN AND GIVE YOU A FEW TIPS ON HOW TO SETUP YOUR SPRAY GUN. NOW A FEW OF THESE MAY HELP YOU GUYS OUT THERE THAT'S KIND OF NEW TO THE GAME AND WANT TO TRY YOUR HAND AT PAINTING, BUT WE'RE GONNA START WITH THE ADJUSTMENTS OF THE PAINT GUN. THE FIRST THING IS THE PRESSURE GAUGE. NOW IT'S VERY SIMPLE. YOU'VE JUST GOT A KNOB HERE THAT YOU HAVE TO TWIST AND MAKE THE PRESSURE GO UP OR DOWN. THIS PARTICULAR UNIT IS A DIGITAL AND THEY MAKE THEM WITH A NEEDLE AND A GAUGE AS WELL. NEXT IS THE FLUID NEEDLE ADJUSTMENT. NOW IT'S VERY SIMPLE, YOU JUST TURN THIS KNOB TO ALLOW MORE OR LESS FLUID PASS THROUGH THE GUN. NOW AS I TURN THIS THING YOU'LL NOTICE THAT THE TRIGGER IS BEING PUSHED FORWARD. THAT MAKES LESS FLUID PASS THROUGH. NEXT IS YOUR FAN AIR ADJUSTMENT. NOW WHAT THIS ONE DOES, AS YOU CRANK IT IN OR OUT IT EITHER DIALS THE PATTERN IN REAL NARROW OR REAL WIDE, AND YOU'D WANT THAT ADJUSTMENT DEPENDING ON WHAT YOU'RE TRYING TO DO, LIKE IF YOU'RE TRYING TO SPRAY IN SOME NOOK AND CRANNIES YOU'LL PROBABLY GET IT REAL NARROW, WHERE IF YOU'RE DOING AN ALL OVER YOU'D ADJUST IT PRETTY WIDE. OKAY GUYS, WE'RE IN THE PAINT BOOTH AND WE'VE GOT A LITTLE PIECE OF PAPER HANGING ON THE WALL, AND WE WANT TO DO US A SPRAY OUT TO TEST OUR PATTERN. NOW WITH THE PAINT GUN YOU'VE GOT THE TRIGGER AND IT'S GOT TWO STAGES TO IT. THE FIRST ONE THAT YOU PULL ONTO JUST ALLOWS AIR TO PASS THROUGH, WHERE WHENEVER YOU ENGAGE INTO THE SECOND ONE, WELL IT OPENS THE NEEDLE AND ALLOWS FLUID TO BE PASSED THROUGH. NOW DOING THIS TEST YOU WANT TO KEEP IT ABOUT EIGHT TO 10 INCHES AWAY FROM THE SURFACE. ALSO YOU WANT TO PULL AND ENGAGE JUST THE AIR, AND THEN PULL THE TRIGGER COMPLETELY. THEN INSTANTLY RELEASE IT. NOW THIS PARTICULAR ONE IS A LITTLE BIT TOO FAT HERE IN THE MIDDLE CAUSE YOU CAN TELL THAT IT TAPERS OFF ON EACH END. SO WE NEED TO OPEN IT UP A BIT, AND TO MAKE THAT ADJUSTMENT YOU JUST TURN YOUR FAN ADJUSTMENT KNOB, THEN TRY IT AGAIN.

NOW THAT'S A LOT BETTER. IT'S A LITTLE BIT NARROW. JUST NEED TO MAKE ANOTHER ADJUSTMENT. NOW TO MAKE THAT ADJUSTMENT YOU JUST SIMPLY TURN THAT KNOB A LITTLE BIT MORE. ALL RIGHT, THAT ONE'S A LITTLE LIGHT BUT LOOKS GOOD.

(MARC)>> WHILE TOMMY'S SPRAYING THAT BOW TIE BLUE I FIGURED I'D SHOW YOU GUYS A LITTLE BOW TIE HORSEPOWER. THIS IS A SNEAK PEAK AT THE ENGINE THAT'S GONNA BE GOING INTO OUR CHEVELLE. IT MAY BE A SMALL BLOCK CHEVY BUT IT'S NOT YOUR RUN OF THE MILL ENGINE. THIS THING IS A 406 CUBIC INCH SMALL BLOCK WITH A DART BLOCK AND AN EAGLE ROTATING ASSEMBLY. IT'S GOT AFR 220cc ELIMINATOR HEADS, BRINGING THE COMPRESSION RATIO TO NINE TO ONE, BUT UP TOP IS WHERE THIS THING REALLY STARTS TO WORK WITH A QFT 850 CFM CARB WITH AN FONEA PRO CHARGER. THE GUYS DOWN IN ENGINE POWER PUT THIS THING ON THE ENGINE DYNO AND IT MADE WHOPPING 993 HORSEPOWER AT 15 POUNDS OF BOOST. NOW THAT'S WITH 93 OCTANE PUMP GAS WITH A LITTLE BIT OF RACE GAS ADDED TO IT.

(NARRATOR)>> COMING UP, WE'LL GET STARTED SPRAYING THE CHEVELLE WITH SOME GROOVY METALLIC BLUE, ALONG WITH SOME MORE TECH ON GUN SETUP, AND WE'LL FINALLY GET THAT BODY BACK ON THE CHASSIS.

(TOMMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK. NOW EARLIER I SHOWED YOU HOW TO DO A SPRAY OUT SO THAT YOU CAN TEST YOUR PATTERN. NOW WE'RE GONNA SPRAY A LITTLE BIT FURTHER, MAKE A COUPLE OF PASSES TO MAKE SURE THAT THIS GUN IS OPERATING PROPERLY. [ spray hissing ]

(TOMMY)>> NOW THAT LOOKS PRETTY CONSISTENT. YOU DON'T WANT TO SEE ANY STUTTERING OR SPUTTERING AND THAT KIND OF THING BECAUSE THAT WOULD INDICATE A PROBLEM. NOW THERE ARE SOME OTHER PROBLEMS OUT THERE THAT YOU CAN RUN INTO, KINDA LIKE THESE. NOW LET'S SAY YOUR GUN IS SPRAYING A PATTERN THAT LOOKS KIND OF LIKE THIS. IT COULD BE A CLOGGED AIR CAP OR SPRAY ORIFICE, OR EVEN DAMAGED PARTS. IN FACT SOMETIMES CLOGGED OR DAMAGED PARTS CAN LEAD TO A VARIETY OF ODD PATTERNS THAT CAN'T BE CORRECTED NO MATTER HOW MUCH ADJUSTING YOU DO. SO MAKE SURE THAT PUPPY IS GOOD AND CLEAN. OKAY WITH THAT DONE I'VE GOT ANOTHER PROCEDURE THAT I WANT TO SHOW YOU ON HOW TO ADJUST THE FLUID NEEDLE, AND IT'S CALLED THE DUMP TEST. IT'S PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWARD, AND NOW SOME GUYS, WHENEVER THEY GO TO ADJUST THE FLUID NEEDLE, THEY PULL THE TRIGGER ALL THE WAY BACK AND THEN THEY CRANK THIS KNOB UNTIL IT KIND OF JUST TOUCHES UP AGAINST IT. NOW WHAT THAT DOES, THAT ALLOWS THEM TO USE THE TRIGGER AS A THROTTLE. IF THEY NEED MORE PAINT THEY JUST PULL ON IT, IF THEY NEEDLE LESS THEY BACK OFF JUST A BIT, BUT DOING IT THIS WAY IS A LITTLE MORE ACCURATE. WHAT YOU WANT TO START WITH IS 10 OUNCES OF THINNER.

TO DO THIS TEST WHAT YOU WANT TO DO IS POUR THE THINNER INTO THE GUN, HOOK UP YOUR HOSE, AND PULL THE TRIGGER. ALLOW IT TO SPRAY FOR ONE MINUTE. I'M USING A STOP WATCH ON MY PHONE TO TIME IT OUT. ONE MINUTE, ALMOST ON THE MONEY. NOW POUR YOUR LEFTOVER MATERIAL BACK INTO THE CUP AND SEE HOW MUCH YOU'VE USED. ALL RIGHT GUYS, WE USED SIX OUNCES OF MATERIAL IN THAT ONE MINUTE TEST, AND THAT'S ACTUALLY ON THE FAT SIDE OF THINGS CAUSE WHAT'S RECOMMENDED FOR SPRAYING BASE COAT IS FOUR OUNCES TO SIX OUNCES. SO IF YOU'RE A LITTLE MORE INEXPERIENCED YOU MIGHT WANT TO TIGHTEN THAT NEEDLE UP JUST A BIT AND GET CLOSER TO THAT FOUR MARK TO HELP PREVENT RUNNING EVERYTHING INTO THE FLOOR, BUT IF YOU'RE SPRAYING CLEAR COAT THE RECOMMENDATION IS ACTUALLY SIX TO 10. SO YOU HAVE TO BACK IT OUT JUST A BIT. HOPE THIS HELPS YOU.

CHECK OUT THAT COLOR! THIS IS A CUSTOM MIX THAT OUR FRIENDS AT SINGLE SOURCE HOOKED US UP WITH, AND WE'RE CALLING IT "BOW TIE BLUE". WE'RE GONNA ADD OUR THINNER AND A SMALL AMOUNT OF ACTIVATOR, AND THEN WE'LL JUST STIR IT UP. YOU WANT TO MIX THIS STUFF REALLY WELL AND THEN POUR IT INTO A GUN. BEFORE YOU GET TOO CARRIED AWAY MAKE SURE TO TACK OFF THE SURFACES TO BE PAINTED. DON'T FORGET TO PULL YOUR TAPE BACK.

FINALLY WE'RE ABLE TO START SPRAYING ON THIS AWESOME COLOR AND A HUGE STEP CLOSER TO THE FINISH LINE WITH OUR CHEVELLE. THIS FIRST COAT DOESN'T HAVE TO COVER EVERY NOOK AND CRANNY. YOU'RE JUST LOOKING FOR ONE NICE UNIFORM APPLICATION. WE'RE GONNA PUT THREE COATS OF BASE ON HERE AND THAT'LL DO IT.

(NARRATOR)>> STICK AROUND AND SEE WHY THE BEST WAY TO GET YOUR BODY MOUNTED TO THE CHASSIS IS WITH AN '80'S STYLE MONTAGE.

(TOMMY)>> ALL RIGHT, WE'VE GOT OUR BASE COAT SPRAYED ON AND NOW WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO DO A LITTLE BIT OF MASKING CAUSE WE DON'T WANT TO CLEAR COAT THE DOOR JAMBS, BUT WE ARE GONNA BE CLEAR COATING THE TOP OF THE FIREWALL, THE FIREWALL, AND THE BELLY BECAUSE WE'RE GONNA BE MARRYING THE CAR TO THE CHASSIS. WE'RE GETTING CLOSER. I LOVE TAPING, I LOVE TAPING, HE, HE, HE, I LOVE TAPING. NOW YOU DON'T HAVE TO GET TOO PRECISE RIGHT AROUND HERE BECAUSE YOU'RE NOT REALLY GONNA BE BLOWING ANY CLEAR UP HERE. YOU JUST KIND OF WANT TO TAPE IT UP JUST ENOUGH SO THAT ALL THE STUFF THAT'S SETTLING AND FLOATING AROUND IN HERE DON'T GET ON THE TOP OF THIS THING. WE'RE GONNA PUT ON A COUPLE OF COATS OF CLEAR. WE'RE STARTING ON THE TOP FOR NO PARTICULAR REASON, GETTING THE FIREWALL AND THE COWL FIRST. LIKE THE BASE, YOU'RE LOOKING FOR A NICE, EVEN COAT. ALL ABOUT THAT BOTTOM NOW. [ spray gun hissing ]

(TOMMY)>> OH YEAH! NOW THERE'S SOME PAINTERS THAT SAY THAT YOU DON'T REALLY NEED FRESH AIR BUT I'M HERE TO TELL YOU WHENEVER YOU'RE PAINTING SOMETHING LIKE THIS, THIS IS ALMOST A MUST. PAY ATTENTION TO HOW THIS STUFF'S GONNA BLOW BACK INTO MY FACE. NOT ONLY IS THIS SAFER, BUT IT HELPS KEEP YOU A LOT CLEANER.

(NARRATOR)>> MEANWHILE BACK AT THE SHOP.

(MARC)>> WE ASSEMBLED OUR CHASSIS A WHILE BACK, AND THOUGH WE HAD THE BODY ON IT FOR SOME OF THAT METAL REPAIR IT'S FINALLY GOING BACK ON, THIS TIME FOR GOOD.

(TOMMY)>> I HAVE TO SAY I KIND OF DIG THAT COLOR.

(MARC)>> I LIKE IT. I THINK WE NEED TO GET SOME PLASTIC ON THIS BEFORE WE GET THIS THING ON THE CHASSIS. THAT WAY WE DON'T GET ANY OVERSPRAY ON THAT NICE CLEAR.

(TOMMY)>> YEAH THAT'S A GOOD IDEA. I'M GONNA GO AHEAD AND GET IN THE BOOTH AND TRIM OUT ALL THE OTHER PIECES. THAT WAY WE CAN ASSEMBLE THE CAR AND GET THE OUTSIDE OF THIS THING SPRAYED.

(MARC)>> OKAY, IT'S NOT GONNA DO ITSELF.

THERE'S A LOT OF LABOR THAT GOES INTO BUILDING AN OLD CAR LIKE OUR CHEVELLE AND GETTING THE COLOR ON IS A VERY SPECIAL MOMENT FOR US.

(MARC)>> HEY, WELCOME BACK. WHILE YOU WERE GONE WE WENT AHEAD AND GOT MOST OF THE BODY PANELS BOLTED BACK ONTO OUR CHEVELLE, AND WE HAVE A GOOD REASON FOR THAT. THIS BLUE COLOR THAT TOMMY CHOSE, WELL IT'S GOT A LOT OF METALLIC IN IT.

(TOMMY)>> YEAH AND WE DON'T WANT THIS THING 10 DIFFERENT SHADES OF BLUE. SO WE WENT AHEAD AND BOLTED IT BACK TOGETHER LIKE HE SAID SO THAT WE CAN SPRAY THE EXTERIOR AT ONE TIME, AND SO NOW WE NEED TO UNTAPE THIS THING SO WE CAN PUSH IT IN THE BOOTH AND GET TO SPRAYING.

(MARC)>> THERE'S REALLY NO SPECIAL WAY TO PULL THIS STUFF OFF. JUST GET TO PULLING UNTIL YOU GET IT ALL OFF.

(TOMMY)>> THIS SMOOTH TRANSITION RIGHT HERE, THAT'S WHAT WE WERE LOOKING FOR WITH THAT BACK TAPING TECHNIQUE.

(MARC)>> AND BACK INTO THE BOOTH SHE GOES.

(TOMMY)>> NOW WHAT WE'RE DOING HERE IS ACTUALLY TAPING TO WHERE MARC DID AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BODY, AND THEN WE'RE GONNA TAPE THIS TO THE FLOOR TO KEEP OVERSPRAY FROM COMING UP UNDER THE CAR. NOW WHAT WE SHOULD HAVE DONE IS WRAP THE FRAME IN PLASTIC LIKE WE DID THE BOTTOM OF THE CAR AND WE WOULDN'T HAVE TO DO ALL THIS WORK. LIKE EARLIER, WE'RE STARTING WITH A COAT OF SEALER. IT LOOKS TRANSLUCENT BUT THAT'S BECAUSE IT'S SIMILAR TO THE COLOR OF OUR PRIMER.

NOW IT'S TIME FOR SOME COLOR. WE'RE SPRAYING ON A COUPLE OF COATS OF OUR "BOW TIE BLUE", AND THAT WILL GET US UP TO COLOR. METALLIC COLORS LIKE OURS CAN BE A LITTLE TRICKY TO SPRAY IN ORDER TO GET THE METALLICS TO LAY OUT EVENLY. SO IF YOU'RE NEW TO THE GAME YOU MIGHT WANT TO CONSIDER A MORE BASIC SOLID COLOR. [ spray gun hissing ]

(TOMMY)>> NOW WE'RE GONNA TAKE IT BACK APART SO THAT WE CAN CLEAR COAT EVERYTHING INDIVIDUALLY. THIS WILL ALLOW US TO CLEAR COAT THE BACK SIDES OF THE REMOVABLE PANELS AS WELL AS THE DOOR JAMBS AND THE EXTERIOR BODY. THAT WILL PREVENT US FROM HAVING TO DO A COUPLE MORE STEPS OF MASKING AND SAVE US SOME TIME. WE CAN'T FIT EVERYTHING IN THE BOOTH AT ONCE. SO WE'LL DO THE BODY FIRST SINCE IT'S TAPED TO THE FLOOR.

WELL THERE YOU GO. SHE'S ALL BLUE AND ALL SHINY. NOW WE COULD GO AHEAD AND BOLT ON THE DOORS BUT IT'D PROBABLY BE A LOT BETTER OF AN IDEA TO LEAVE THE FRONT CAP OFF UNTIL WE DROP THAT MOTOR AND TRANNY IN.

(MARC)>> THAT'S RIGHT, AND WHILE WE'VE GOT EVERYTHING OFF IT'S PROBABLY A GOOD TIME TO DO A LITTLE BIT OF CUTTING AND BUFFING.

(TOMMY)>> I THOUGHT ALL THE SANDING WAS DONE.

WE ALL KNOW SPRAYING PAINT IS A WHOLE LOT OF FUN, BUT WHENEVER YOU'RE DONE BEING A TRIGGER MAN, WELL YOUR JOB'S NOT DONE YET. NOW A SPRAY GUN IS A SENSITIVE AND USUALLY A RATHER PRICEY PIECE OF EQUIPMENT. SO MAINTAINING IT IS A MUST. NOW WE JUST GOT DONE SPRAYING SOME PAINT. SO RIGHT NOW'S A TIME TO SHOW YOU GUYS A FEW TIPS. OBVIOUSLY YOU'LL WANT TO POUR OUT THE LEFTOVER MATERIAL. LET THAT DRAIN FOR A SECOND, AND THEN POUR IN A FEW OUNCES OF WASH THINNER. PUT THE CAP BACK ON, GIVE IT A SWIRL. THEN PULL THE TRIGGER AND LET IT FLUSH ITSELF OUT.

NOW IF YOU DID THAT A COUPLE OF TIMES THIS GUN WOULD BE PLENTY CLEAN ENOUGH TO GO AHEAD AND START SPRAYING ON SOME CLEAR IF YOU JUST GOT FINISHED SPRAYING ON SOME BASE, BUT NORMALLY WITH SOMETHING LIKE THAT I LIKE TO COME IN WITH SOME REGULAR OLE PAINT THINNER AND WASH OUT THAT WASH THINNER BECAUSE WASH THINNER'S A LITTLE STRONGER AND IT DOESN'T REALLY PLAY VERY NICE WITH FRESHLY SPRAYED ON BASE COAT. NOW LET'S SAY YOU'RE DONE FOR THE DAY AND YOU NEED TO GIVE THE GUN A LITTLE MORE OF A THOROUGH CLEANING. THE FIRST THING YOU WANT TO DO IS REMOVE THE CUP.

UNSCREW THIS, GET THE SPRING, AND THE FLUID NEEDLE OUT. NEXT UNSCREW THE AIR CAP....

...AND FLUID NOZZLE. NOW YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE TO USE A WRENCH, NOT A PAIR OF PLIERS HERE BECAUSE PLIERS, WELL THEY'LL DAMAGE THESE PIECES. I LIKE TO HAVE A CUP OF THINNER HANDY AND GIVE THESE A QUICK SHORT BATH, AND IT'S OKAY TO LET THEM SOAK FOR A BIT. NOW YOU DON'T WANT TO SOAK THE BODY OF THE GUN CAUSE YOU CAN MESS WITH SOME OF THE GASKETS AND SEALS IN IT. I LIKE TO USE SOME COTTON SWABS TO GET THE JOB DONE. ALSO A FEW BRUSHES WILL HELP DO IT AS WELL.

WITH THESE COTTON SWABS. IF THAT'S DIRTY THE GUN'S STILL DIRTY.

NOW YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE ALL OF YOUR ORIFICES ARE FREE AND CLEAR, KINDA LIKE HERE ON THE AIR CAP. IF THEY'RE PLUGGED UP, WELL YOU NEED TO CLEAN THEM OUT, AND USE SOMETHING WOODEN KIND OF LIKE A TOOTH PICK. YOU DON'T WANT TO USE A PIECE OF METAL WIRE BECAUSE YOU CAN DAMAGE THE HOLE, AND IF YOU DO THAT, WELL NEXT THING YOU KNOW THE PAINT GUN IS SPRAYING FUNNY. NOW WITH EVERYTHING CLEAN YOU CAN START REASSEMBLY, AND ON YOUR THREADED PARTS IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO USE SOME SPRAY GUN LUBRICANT. NOW THIS IS SPECIAL STUFF, NOT JUST SOME RUN OF THE MILL OIL. IF YOU TRY SOMETHING ELSE, WELL IT CAN GIVE YOU SOME PAINT TROUBLES LATER DOWN THE ROAD. WELL THAT PRETTY MUCH DOES IT, AND IT'S KIND OF LIKE THAT OLD SAYIN', YOU TAKE CARE OF IT, IT'LL TAKE CARE OF YOU.
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