Detroit Muscle Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

Dupli-Color
Dupli-Color Custom Wrap Automotive Removable Paint
Holley
Fuel Injection System, Holley Sniper EFI Self-Tuning, Handheld EFI Monitor, Shiny Finish, TB Mounted ECU, Kit
Holley
SNIPER fuel system consisting of; 40ft of 3/8" Vapor Guard Fuel Hose, 12-920 Fuel Pump, Filters, necessary hardware and bulkhead fitting
Pertronix
Pertronix Contour Starter 1964-2000 Chevy SB/BB, 153T and 168T flywheels, 63-74 L6 (230, 250, 292 engines)
Auto Metal Direct
71-72 Chevelle El Camino SS Domed Hood
Automotive Workwear
Official Workwear of Detroit Muscle
The Industrial Depot
Industrial Depot - Fasteners, Hardware, And Shop Supplies

Episode Transcript

(NARRATOR)>> TODAY ON DETROIT MUSCLE THE BOYS ARE GONNA MAKE THE DUST FLY WHILE THEY GET IN SOME QUALITY TIME WITH OUR CHEVELLE'S BODY.

LEARN SOME TIPS AND TRICKS TO MAKE THE PANELS ON YOUR RIDE AS SMOOTH AS GLASS. PLUS HOW TO SWAP AN OLD SCHOOL MUSTANG TO FUEL INJECTION WITHOUT BREAKING THE BANK.

(TOMMY)>> HEY GUYS, WE'RE BACK ON OUR CHEVELLE PROJECT TODAY AND WE'RE GONNA BE WORKING ON THE BODY WORK. NOW THIS OFTEN TIMES IS THE CHORE THAT IS, LET'S SAY, THE MOST DREADED, AND BY FAR THE MOST LABOR INTENSIVE, BUT THIS IS WHERE ALL THAT HARD WORK OF REDOING YOUR RIDE GETS TO SHINE.

(MARC)>> SON LET ME TELL YA! NOW YOUR PAINT JOB IS WHAT GIVES EVERYBODY THE FIRST

IMPRESSION OF YOUR RIDE. NOW YOU DON'T WANT IT TO BE BAD BECAUSE THAT'LL GET YOU A LOT OF ATTENTION BUT NOT THE KIND OF ATTENTION

THAT YOU'RE LOOKING FOR.

(TOMMY)>> SO TODAY WE'RE GONNA SLOW DOWN JUST A BIT AND GIVE YOU A FEW TIPS AND TRICKS, AND SOME INSIDER INFORMATION ON HOW TO DO A FEW OF THESE THINGS PROPERLY. FIRST THING WE'RE GONNA START WITH IS WORKING WITH NEW PARTS, LIKE THIS HOOD.

YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU CLEAN EVERYTHING THOROUGHLY

BECAUSE THERE'S OIL AND CONTAMINANTS THAT CAN BE ON

THE SURFACE THAT COME FROM THE MANUFACTURING AND SHIPPING PROCESS THAT CAN COME BACK TO HAUNT YOU. WHAT WE'RE USING IS SOME WAX AND GREASE REMOVER BECAUSE THE SUBSTANCES THAT WIND UP ON THESE PANELS ARE OFTEN OIL BASED, AND THIS WILL DO A GOOD JOB OF REMOVING IT. BE SURE TO KEEP USING CLEAN TOWELS TO AVOID

SPREADING ANY CONTAMINANTS. TO APPLY CLEANER I PREFER USING IT IN A SPRAY BOTTLE INSTEAD OF WHAT A LOT OF GUYS DO OUT THERE, WHICH IS TAKE THE LID OF THE JUG OFF, AND PUT YOUR RAG OVER IT, AND SLOSH IT ONTO IT.

THE PROBLEM WITH DOING IT THAT WAY, IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING ON THAT RAG, IT'S GONNA GET INSIDE OF THAT CONTAINER.

THIS WAY YOU DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT IT. THE NEXT THING YOU WANT TO DO, WHICH IS A GOOD IDEA,

IS A SURFACE TEST. YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE THIS BLACK COATING THAT'S ON THE SHEET METAL IS TRUE ECOAT.

THERE'S SOME SHEET METAL OUT THERE THAT YOU CAN BUY THAT'S GOT A BLACK PRIMER ON IT BUT IT'S REALLY JUST A SHIPPING COATING, AND WHAT IT'S DESIGNED TO DO IS TO KEEP THAT

PART FROM FLASH RUSTING DURING TRANSPORTATION.

NOW WE GOT OUR HOOD FROM AMD, OR AUTO METAL DIRECT, AND WE KNOW IT'S GOT THE ECOAT, BUT THE TEST IS RELATIVELY SIMPLE. OKAY WE'VE GOT A CUP OF LACQUER THINNER HERE AND A RAG. WHAT YOU WANT TO DO IS TAKE THE RAG, SATURATE IT, AND THEN JUST SIMPLY SET IT ONTO THE PANEL. YOU WANT TO LET IT COOK FOR JUST A MINUTE. IF YOU HAVE ANY BLACK ON THE RAG IT'S NOT TRUE ECOAT AND YOU'RE GONNA HAVE TO SAND IT ALL OFF. IF YOU'RE LIKE WE ARE YOU'RE GOOD TO GO.

ALL RIGHT GUYS, THE NEXT THING WE'RE GONNA BE DOING IS

PREPPING FOR SOME PRIMER.

DEPENDING ON YOUR PAINT MANUFACTURER THEY MAY HAVE DIFFERENT RECOMMENDATIONS. SOME OF THEM OUT THERE SAY ONCE THE SURFACE IS CLEAN YOU'RE READY TO START SEALING, AND THEN YOU CAN MOVE ON TO PAINT, OR YOU MAY HAVE TO SCUFF IT LIGHTLY IF IT'S

EXPOSED TO DIRECT SUNLIGHT. NOW WE'RE GONNA GO AHEAD AND SCUFF OURS DOWN WITH SOME 500 TO 600 GRIT PAPER HERE ON THE BIG FLAT SURFACES, AND THEN FOLLOW THAT UP AROUND THE CURVES WITH THIS RED PAD.

[ sander buzzing ]

(MARC)>> YOU WANT TO KEEP A LIGHT, EVEN PRESSURE ON THE DA SANDER BECAUSE WITH AN AGGRESSIVE TOOL LIKE THIS

YOU COULD GOUGE DOWN THROUGH THE ECOAT INTO BARE METAL.

(TOMMY)>> NOW YOU DON'T REALLY WANT TO SAND THE ECOAT OFF. YOU JUST WANT TO KNOCK THE SHINE DOWN. TRY NOT TO SAND THROUGH IT, JUST SCUFF IT UP. YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE TO BE EXTRA CAREFUL ON THE BODY LINES AND WHERE THE PANEL IS CURVED. THESE SPOTS ARE EASIER TO MESS UP IF YOU GET INTO A HURRY. DON'T BE AFRAID TO GRAB AN ABRASIVE PAD OR SAND PAPER AND DO THOSE PLACES BY HAND.

(MARC)>> A LOT OF PEOPLE MIGHT NOT KNOW BUT "DA" STANDS FOR DUAL ACTION, AND WHEN WE SLOW THE VIDEO WAY DOWN YOU CAN SEE WHY. THE PAD DOESN'T JUST SPIN LIKE A GRINDER OR BUFFER WOULD. IT ALSO MOVES DIAGONALLY IN BOTH DIRECTIONS CREATING AN ORBITAL MOVEMENT PATTERN THAT IS VERY EFFECTIVE AT REMOVING MATERIAL. [ sander buzzing ]

(TOMMY)>> WITH THE MAIN BODY OF THE WORK DONE WE'LL BUST OUT THAT RED PAD AND SCUFF DOWN THE SPOTS WE EITHER COULDN'T GET TO OR WANTED TO BE A LITTLE MORE CAREFUL WITH. I'M USING A SCUFF PAD TO SCUFF THESE EDGES HERE GUYS.

MAKE SURE TO PAY ATTENTION WHILE YOU'RE SCUFFING. IF YOU AIN'T CAREFUL YOU'LL RUN OFF, SLIP OFF, AND CUT YOURSELF ON THESE EDGES. A GOOD WAY TO MAKE A QUICK TRIP TO THE EMERGENCY ROOM.

(MARC)>> WELL WE SHOWED YOU THAT ONE PANEL BUT THERE ARE SEVERAL MORE THAT HAVE TO BE DEALT WITH BEFORE WE CAN GET IN THE BOOTH.

CLEANING OFF THE SURFACE ONCE YOU'RE DONE IS IMPORTANT. SO GET YOU A BLOWER AND SOME CLEANER AND MAKE SURE THAT THING IS CLEAN AS A WHISTLE.

(TOMMY)>> NOW WE CAN START GETTING READY TO PRIME.

WE'LL JUMP IN THE SPRAY BOOTH WITH OUR NEWLY PREPPED PANELS AND GET TO SPRAYING. NOW YOU CAN SPRAY ON ONE COAT OR TWO COATS. I'M GONNA SPRAY ON TWO JUST FOR GOOD MEASURE.

(MARC)>> WITH THOSE SPRAYED WE CAN MOVE ON TO THE BODY. WE RAN OUT OF BLUE PRIMER BUT THAT'S OKAY. WE CAN USE BLACK SINCE THIS WON'T BE THE PRIMER COAT THAT GOES UNDER THE PAINT. THIS EPOXY PRIMER IS DESIGNED TO BE SPRAYED ON BARE METAL OR OTHER PRIMER, AND WILL FUNCTION AS AN IDEAL SURFACE TO APPLY THE FILLER WE'LL BE USING.

(TOMMY)>> MAKE SURE YOUR FITTING IS SCREWED IN THE GUN REAL GOOD.

[ compressed air blowing ]

(TOMMY)>> THAT WAY YOU DON'T WIND UP LOOKING LIKE A SNAKE WRANGLER.

(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT IT'S INTO THE PREP STATION WHERE WE GET DOWN TO THE NITTY GRITTY, AND LATER FIND OUT HOW FUEL INJECTION JUST BECAME A LOT MORE AFFORDABLE.

(MARC)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK. NOW WE GOT THE EPOXY PRIMER SPRAYED ON THE BODY PANELS OF OUR '72 CHEVELLE AND IT'S TIME TO MOVE ON TO THE BODY WORKING PROCESS. THERE'S A FEW THINGS WE NEED TO CONSIDER BEFORE WE JUST START SLAPPING SOME MUD ON HERE.

ONE IS THE AMOUNT OF THIS PRIMER WE PUT DOWN. IF YOU JUST PUT ONE COAT, IN A COUPLE OF HOURS YOU CAN GO AHEAD AND START THIS PROCESS, BUT IF YOU PUT A COUPLE COATS ON LIKE WE DID, YOU WANT TO WAIT SEVERAL HOURS, OR EVEN OVERNIGHT, WHICH IS WHAT WE DID. THE OTHER THING IS YOU'VE GOT TO FIGURE OUT WHERE YOU'RE ACTUALLY GONNA PUT THE FILLER. NOW IN A SITUATION LIKE THIS WHERE YOU CAN SEE A DING, WELL, THAT'S PRETTY EASY, BUT THERE MAYBE SPOTS ON THIS PANEL THAT YOU CAN'T SEE WITH THE NAKED EYE, AND IN ORDER TO FIND THOSE WE'RE GONNA USE SOME 180 GRIT SAND PAPER ON A RUBBER BLOCK. THE IDEA WITH THIS IS TO KEEP THE STROKES LIGHT

AND APPLY EVEN PRESSURE. YOU WANT TO CHANGE THE DIRECTION FREQUENTLY USING AN "X" PATTERN TO DO THE WORK. ONE THING TO KEEP IN MIND HERE IS WITH THIS EPOXY PRIMER IS IT'LL SPALL UP ON THE SAND PAPER, AND YOU WANT TO KEEP THAT FROM HAPPENING AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE. EVEN THOUGH WE'RE KEEPING A LIGHT PRESSURE ON THE BLOCK, IT'S STILL GONNA DO THAT A LITTLE BIT BECAUSE THIS PRIMER HASN'T COMPLETELY CURED. SO YOU JUST NEED TO MAKE SURE YOU KEEP AN EYE ON THAT, PULL THAT OFF, GET YOU A FRESH PIECE ON THERE.

NOW BLOCKING ON THIS PANEL WITH THE 180 HAS REVEALED ALL OF THE IMPERFECTIONS. YOU CAN SEE THE LOW SPOTS HERE WHERE THE SAND PAPER DIDN'T TOUCH.

THOSE ARE PRETTY MINOR, BUT THEY DO NEED TO BE ADDRESSED.

(TOMMY)>> NOW WE'LL GET ON THOSE A LITTLE BIT LATER WITH

SOME HIGH BUILD PRIMER, BUT THOSE DEEPER SPOTS, WELL THEY

NEED TO HAVE SOME FILLER PUT ON THEM. NOW AS A GENERAL RULE OF THUMB I DON'T LIKE TO HAVE FILLER ANY THICKER THAN THREESIXTEENTHS. NOW DEPENDING ON THE MANUFACTURER OF IT, SOME OF THEM SAY YOU CAN STRETCH IT OUT TO A QUARTER INCH THICK MAXIMUM, BUT YOU JUST DON'T WANT TO USE NO MORE THAN YOU HAVE TOO. THIS STUFF ISN'T A GLUE, ISN'T ANY KIND OF REINFORCEMENT, BUT YOU CAN USE IT TO SHAPE THE PANEL.

IF YOU HAVE TO GET IT THICKER THAN THAT YOU NEED TO RESORT TO A HAMMER AND DOLLY, OR TO GET IT CLOSER JUST SO YOU DON'T NEED AS MUCH. NOW WHEN YOU'RE MIXING THIS STUFF, MAKE SURE

TO FOLD IT OVER. DON'T BE ACTING LIKE YOU'RE MAKING A BUNCH OF MASHED POTATERS OUT OF IT BECAUSE YOU DON'T WANT TO MIX IT INCORRECTLY OR YOU'RE GONNA WIND UP WITH A BUNCH OF AIR POCKETS. YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE THE SURFACE IS DUST FREE. SO JUST WIPE IT DOWN GOOD. WITH THIS PRIMER BEING RELATIVELY FRESH WE CAN GO AHEAD WITHOUT SANDING ON IT.

NOW IF YOU LOOK AT THE FILLER, THIS STUFF IS STARTING TO KICK. DON'T EVEN TRY TO APPLY THIS.

YOU'LL RUN INTO ADHESION PROBLEMS.

WHILE YOU'RE DOING THIS YOU ALSO DON'T WANT TO SAND OFF THE BLUE PRIMER OR YOUR EPOXY PRIMER OFF IN THERE CAUSE THAT'S WHERE YOU GET YOUR CORROSION RESISTANCE FROM. I'VE GOT A FEW IMPERFECTIONS RIGHT HERE WHERE I DIDN'T

WIPE ENOUGH FILLER AT. YOU CAN ALSO SEE RIGHT THERE AND RIGHT THERE IS THE HOLE THAT THAT EMBLEM GOES IN. YOU ALSO WANT TO COME BACK WITH SOME COMPRESSED AIR AND BLOW OUT ALL THIS STUFF BECAUSE THERE'S SANDING DUST THAT'S INSIDE THIS FILLER AND YOU WANT TO OPEN THAT UP. YOU CAN ALSO SEE RIGHT HERE IS AN AIR POCKET. YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE TO LOOK FOR THINGS LIKE THAT BECAUSE IF YOU WERE TO PRIME OVER TOP OF IT, WHEN THAT STUFF SHRINKS DOWN, THERE WILL BE A DIMPLE THERE. [ compressed air blowing ]

(TOMMY)>> WELL THAT ONE'S FIXED UP. I'VE GOT A FEW MORE I NEED TO DO SOME DOUGH WORK ON. AFTER THAT THIS DECK LID WILL BE READY FOR SOME PRIMER.

(NARRATOR)>> STICK AROUND AND WE'LL TAKE A LOOK AT HOW TO SAVE TONS OF MONEY ON SWAPPING FUEL INJECTION ONTO YOUR RIDE.

(TOMMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK. NOW WE'RE GONNA SHIFT GEARS FROM THAT LABOR INTENSIVE BODY WORK OVER TO THIS MUSTANG. NOW YOU MIGHT REMEMBER BACK WE DID A FEW MODERNIZE UPGRADES

TO IT AND IT SURE DID TURN OUT PRETTY SWEET, BUT I THINK WE CAN MAKE IT RUN JUST A LITTLE BIT SWEETER.

(MARC)>> THE WAY WE'RE GONNA DO THAT IS BY ADDRESSING THE FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEM. NOW THIS THING'S GOT A TRADITIONAL FOUR BARREL HOLLEY ON IT, WHICH IS PLENTY POWERFUL AND RELIABLE FOR AN ENGINE LIKE THIS, BUT LIKE TOMMY SAID, WE'RE DOING MODERN

UPGRADES TO THIS CAR AND WE'VE GOT SOMETHING THAT'LL GIVE THAT FOUR BARREL HOLLEY A RUN FOR ITS MONEY.

(TOMMY)>> TO DO THAT WE'RE GONNA USE THIS SNIPER EFI UNIT FROM HOLLEY. NOW NOT ONLY WILL THIS CONVERSION GIVE YOU THOSE MODERN CONVENIENCES OF FUEL INJECTION, BUT IT WILL ACTUALLY NOT TAKE A WHOLE LOT TO DO IT CAUSE THIS THROTTLE BODY ITSELF BOLTS RIGHT INTO PLACE OF WHERE THAT CARBURETOR GOES WITHOUT A WHOLE LOT OF WORK.

SOMETHING THAT INTIMIDATES PEOPLE WITH DOING A SWAP LIKE THIS IS THE WIRING. WELL THEY SIMPLIFIED THAT DRASTICALLY WITH ONLY FOUR CONNECTIONS TO THE CAR, AND TO CARRY ON THAT SIMPLICITY THEY ACTUALLY MOUNTED THE ECU HERE INSIDE OF THE THROTTLE BODY, AND FOR YOU PERFORMANCE GUYS THE BASE MODELS WILL SUPPORT UP TO 600 HORSE. OBVIOUSLY IT HAS ALL THE HARDWARE THAT YOU'RE GONNA NEED TO INSTALL IT, AND IT'S A SELF LEARNING UNIT. SO YOU DON'T NEED NO SPECIAL COMPUTER TO GET IT DIALED IN JUST RIGHT, AND ANOTHER THING THAT'S SUPER GOOD ABOUT THIS

DEAL IS THAT THE PRICE POINT ON IT IS UNDER $1,000. SO THAT MAKES IT SUPER AFFORDABLE.

(MARC)>> LET'S GET STARTED BY PULLING THE OLD CARB

OFF OF THIS SMALL BLOCK. WE'LL UNBOLT IT AS WELL AS REMOVING THE VACUUM LINES AND THE ELECTRIC TOO.

WE'LL JUMP OVER TO THE THROTTLE LINKAGE AND GET IT UNCORKED FROM THE CARB WHILE WE'RE AT IT, AND THEN USING A PAPER TOWEL TO PREVENT SPILLS, WE'LL UNDO THE FUEL LINE.

NOW WE'RE READY TO REMOVE IT. WE'VE GOT TO SCRAPE OFF THIS OLD GASKET NEXT SO THAT WE GET A GOOD SEAT FOR THE NEW ONE. MAKE SURE THE SURFACE IS CLEANED UP NICELY.

ON THREE OF THESE HOLES WE CAN INSTALL OUR NEW STUDS, BUT ON ONE WE'LL HAVE TO USE A BOLT. NOW WE CAN PUT OUR NEW GASKET ON AND SLIP THE THROTTLE BODY IN PLACE.

WE'LL GET TO WORK REATTACHING THINGS LIKE THOSE VACUUM LINES...

...AS WELL AS THE LINKAGE.

WE'LL LEAVE THE FUEL UNHOOKED AT THE MOMENT. WELL NOW THAT WE'VE GOT OUR LINKAGE AND OUR VACUUM HOSES HOOKED UP, REALLY ALL THAT'S LEFT IS GONNA BE OUR FUEL SUPPLY AND OF COURSE WIRING. NOW AS TOMMY SAID EARLIER, ALL WE REALLY NEED TO HOOK UP IS FOUR WIRES. SO WE'VE GOT A POWER AND GROUND HERE FOR THE SUPPLY, AND THEN WE'VE GOT TWO WIRES HERE. ONE GOES TO THE COIL NEGATIVE, AND THE OTHER ONE'S GONNA BE OUR 12 VOLT SWITCH POWER. NOW THERE ARE A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT WIRING OPTIONS THAT COME WITH THE KIT, LIKE THIS HARNESS HERE, THAT'S GOT INPUTS AND OUTPUTS. YOU CAN HOOK UP THINGS LIKE AN ELECTRIC FAN AND EVEN SOME GAUGES, AND THEN THIS IGNITION COIL DRIVER, WHICH CAN ACTUALLY CONTROL THE IGNITION TIMING, BUT YOU DON'T

HAVE TO HOOK THIS UP. SO WE'RE GONNA LEAVE IT OFF FOR NOW. IT ONLY TAKES US A FEW MINUTES TO GET OUR ELECTRONICS ALL LINED UP AND THEN WE'LL MOVE ON. NOW THAT WE'VE GOT OUR WIRING ALL WRAPPED UP THE LAST THING WE NEED TO DO TO OUR MUSTANG BEFORE WE CAN DRIVE IT IS GONNA BE THE FUEL SYSTEM. NOW THE BASE KIT DOESN'T COME WITH A FUEL SETUP BUT YOU CAN UPGRADE TO THIS SNIPER FUEL KIT FOR UNDER $300 DOLLARS.

NOW IT'S NOT ONE OF THOSE FANCY KITS WITH A DROP IN IN THE TANK AND ALL THAT, BUT IT COMES WITH EVERYTHING YOU NEED AND IT'S EASY TO INSTALL.

THIS INLINE FUEL PUMP WILL PROVIDE THE 60 PSI FUEL PRESSURE THAT THE SNIPER EFI SYSTEM NEEDS. THE KIT ALSO COMES WITH A PREFILTER, POST FILTER, HOSE, CLAMPS AND FITTINGS, EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO INSTALL IT. NOW BECAUSE THE THROTTLE BODY HAS A FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR BUILT IN WE DON'T NEED ONE WITH THE FUEL KIT. NOW BEFORE WE CAN HIT THE KEY AND FIRE THIS THING UP WE JUST NEED TO USE THE HAND HELD HERE THAT CAME WITH THE KIT, ANSWER A FEW QUESTIONS HERE, WE'LL BE READY TO ROLL.

WHILE THIS INJECTION INSTALL THAT WE DID ON OUR '66 MUSTANG HAS MADE IT MORE RELIABLE AND FUEL EFFICIENT, NOT TO MENTION WE DIDN'T HAVE TO SACRIFICE ANY POWER.

(TOMMY)>> YEAH AND FOR THE PRICE THAT THAT SYSTEM GOES FOR, WELL IT'S REALLY HARD TO BEAT IT FOR THAT.

(TOMMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK. NOW WE'RE GONNA GET BACK STARTED ON THE BODY WORK OF OUR OLD CHEVELLE, AND WE'RE READY TO SPRAY ON A DIFFERENT TYPE OF PRIMER.

(NARRATOR)>> DETROIT MUSCLE PRESENTS BACK TO BASICS. TIPS FOR THE BEGINNER GEAR HEAD.

(TOMMY)>> NOW I'M SURE YOU'VE HEARD A WHOLE BUNCH OF DIFFERENT TERMS WHENEVER IT COMES TO PRIMER. SO WE WANT TO SLOW DOWN AND EXPLAIN YOUR BASIC OPTIONS. NOW THE FIRST THING WE'RE GONNA TALK ABOUT IS LACQUER PRIMER. NOW THIS STUFF IS VERY ECONOMICALLY PRICED BECAUSE IT'S OLD TECHNOLOGY. IT WAS WIDELY USED BACK IN THE DAY, BUT THAT'S REALLY ABOUT THE BEST THEY HAD. NOW THE VISCOSITY OF THIS STUFF IS PRETTY THICK. IT'S LIKE A HIGH BUILD PRIMER, BUT IT'S ONLY A ONEK, MEANING ALL YOU NEED TO SPRAY IT IS A THINNER TO MIX IN WITH IT. NOW A LOT OF GUYS STILL USE THIS STUFF BUT IT'S ON IMPLEMENT, AND FARM TRACTORS, AND THAT KIND OF THING, AND THAT'S WHY IT'S STILL AROUND TODAY. NOW THIS STUFF IS A HIGH BUILD URETHANE PRIMER. IT TAKES AN ACTIVATOR TO MAKE IT CURE. NOW AT FIRST GLANCE YOU WOULD THINK THAT IT'S NOT AS GOOD BECAUSE IT'S A LOT THINNER, BUT THIS IS A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT ANIMAL. SINCE THIS IS A TWOK IT TAKES AN ACTIVATOR TO MAKE IT CURE, AND THAT GREATLY INCREASES ITS LIFE SPAN OVER TOP OF THAT

LACQUER PRIMER, BUT THIS PRIMER ALSO TAKES A TIE COAT TO MAKE IT STICK TO METAL BECAUSE YOU CAN'T SPRAY IT STRAIGHT ON, AND THEN YOU HAVE A SUPER HIGH BUILD PRIMER. THIS IS A POLYESTER PRIMER AND OFTEN TIMES IT'S CONSIDERED A SPRAYABLE FORM OF FILLER, BUT IT TAKES SPECIAL EQUIPMENT JUST TO SPRAY IT ON BECAUSE IT'S SO DARN THICK. NOW YOU CAN USE THIS STUFF IF YOU'VE GOT A PANEL THAT'S GOT WAVES IN IT. HECK I'VE EVEN SEEN IT USED TO REMOVE HAIL DENTS. BEFORE WE GET MUCH FURTHER I WANT TO TALK ABOUT SHRINKAGE. NOW ALL PRIMERS SHRINK TO SOME FORM OF FASHION BECAUSE THEY HAVE A THINNER OR REDUCER IN THEM TO MAKE THEM A SPRAYABLE FORM, AND ONCE THAT STUFF EVAPORATES OUT THAT MATERIAL CAUSES IT TO DRAW UP, AND THAT'S THE SHRINKAGE, BUT ALL OF THEM DO IT AT A DIFFERENT RATE. SO I CREATED A LITTLE EXPERIMENT HERE WITH THREE

DIFFERENT MATERIALS, SAME AMOUNT IN EACH CUP, JUST TO SHOW YOU HOW MUCH THEY SHRANK. THE FIRST WE'RE GONNA TALK ABOUT IS POLYESTER. NOW BY FAR THIS IS THE MOST STABLE BECAUSE THE TALC IN IT IS A LOT GREATER IN SIZE THAN THE OTHER PRIMERS, AND IT HAS A LOT LESS REDUCER IN IT. NEXT UP IS THE TWOK URETHANE PRIMER. NOW THIS STUFF HAS THE TALC IN IT GROUND A LITTLE BIT FINER THAN THAT POLYESTER, BUT ALSO HAS ACTIVATED RESINS IN IT THAT HELP KEEP IT FROM SHRINKING UP AS MUCH, BUT YOU CAN DEFINITELY TELL THAT IT'S GOT SOME SOLVENT IN IT. NEXT UP IS LACQUER PRIMER. AT FIRST GLANCE YOU'D THINK IT DIDN'T SHRINK THAT MUCH, BUT ACTUALLY IT SHRANK A BUNCH. HERE IT'S A LOT THINNER, AND IT STARTED ACTUALLY PULLING APART. BY FAR THIS IS THE LEAST STABLE OF THE THREE.

NOW THESE TWO PRIMERS ARE A TWOK PRIMER AND THEY TAKE AN ACTIVATOR TO MAKE THEM CURE, WHERE THE LACQUER PRIMER, IT JUST SIMPLY DRIES. NOW I'M NOT GONNA RECOMMEND THIS BUT YOU COULD TAKE LACQUER PRIMER, LIKE THIS BIG OLE PLUG, SAND IT INTO A POWDER, POUR IT INTO A CUP, POUR A LITTLE THINNER WITH IT, MIX IT UP, YOU COULD ACTUALLY RESPRAY IT, WHERE IF YOU USE

THESE OTHER TWO YOU JUST HAVE DUST AND SOME THINNER. WE'RE READY TO START SPRAYING ON OUR POLY PRIMER. NOW I TOOK THE NEEDLES OUT OF BOTH OF THESE GUNS TO SHOW YOU THE DIFFERENCE IN THE TWO.

IF YOU LOOK AT THIS HOLE HERE IT'S A LOT BIGGER. THAT ALLOWS YOU TO SPRAY THAT THICKER FLUID, WHERE THIS OTHER ONE IS A LOT SMALLER AND IT'S MORE FOR STUFF LIKE PAINT AND CLEAR.

(MARC)>> SINCE WE'RE USING IT TO HELP SMOOTH OUT ANY MINOR LOW OR HIGH SPOTS LEFT IN THESE PANELS, WE'RE GONNA USE THAT HIGH BUILD POLY PRIMER, WHICH YOU FOLLOW UP WITH A GOOD AMOUNT OF TIME WITH A LONG BOARD.

(TOMMY)>> WELL WE GOT OUR PANEL SPRAYED WITH SOME PRIMER AND IT'S JUST ABOUT CURED ENOUGH THAT WE CAN START THAT

LABOR OF LOVE CALLED SANDING. YOU EXCITED?

(MARC)>> SO EXCITED. NOT ONLY DO WE HAVE A LOT OF SANDING TO DO ON THIS STUFF, BUT WE'VE GOT A LOT OF PRIMING AND SANDING LEFT TO DO

ON THE REST OF THE CAR. SO WE NEED TO GET TO WORK.

(TOMMY)>> WHEN IT COMES TO CUSTOM YOUR RIDE, WHAT IF IT WAS QUICK, EASY, AND NONPERMANENT? WITH DUPLICOLOR'S CUSTOM WRAP IT CAN BE.

THIS SPRAY ON REMOVABLE COATING IS SPECIFICALLY

FORMULATED FOR AUTOMOTIVE APPLICATIONS, AND IT'S SIMPLE TO SPRAY ON IN JUST A FEW COATS. NOT ONLY ARE THE RESULTS PROFESSIONAL LOOKING, BUT THE FINISH ALSO PROVIDES A PROTECTIVE COATING THAT RESISTS WEAR AND TEAR. IT'S AVAILABLE IN SEVERAL DIFFERENT COLORS AND ALSO IN

BULK FORM IN A GALLON CAN. YOU CAN SPRAY THIS STUFF ON PAINTED SURFACES, CHROME, ALUMINUM, AND PLASTIC.

(MARC)>> PEOPLE NORMALLY IGNORE THEIR STARTER UNTIL THE FRUSTRATING MOMENT WHEN IT FAILS. HEAT FROM THE EXHAUST CAN DAMAGE THE INTERNALS AND HIGH COMPRESSION ENGINES CAN SHORTEN ITS LIFE. TO BATTLE THESE PROBLEMS SUMMIT RACING EQUIPMENT NOW HAS PERTRONIX CONTOUR STARTERS. THESE COMPACT STARTERS FEATURE A POWERFUL MOTOR AND A FOUR POINT FOUR TO ONE GEAR REDUCTION TO CRANK YOUR HIGH PERFORMANCE ENGINE WITH EASE. YOU CAN ALSO CLOCK THE HOUSING TO CLEAR THINGS LIKE HEADERS, OIL PANS, AND CHASSIS COMPONENTS. WELL THAT'S ALL THE TIME WE HAVE FOR TODAY FOLKS. SO REMEMBER, IF YOU CAN'T FIND'EM, GRIND'EM.
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