More Project Ultra Violet Episodes

Detroit Muscle Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

Classic Industries
MM1261 - 1971-74 Dodge Challenger Restorers Choice Trunk Floor Pan
Edelbrock
Universal EFI Sump Kit, 60 PSI, Fuel Pump, Regulator, Wiring Harness, Fittings, Kit
KnKut Performance Drills
KnKut 1/4" Fractional Jobber Length Drill Bit
Loctite
Loctite Extend Rust Treatment Coating
Summit Racing
OER Engine Frame Mount, Right, Steel, Black, Chevy, Each
The Industrial Depot
The Industrial Depot - Fasteners, Hardware and Shop Supplies

Episode Transcript

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY ON DETROIT MUSCLE, IT'S A PLAN FOR THE PAN AS OUR CREW STEAM ROLLS THROUGH A TRUNK PAN REPLACEMENT FOR OUR 1970 CHALLENGER, ULTRA VIOLET. WE'LL GO SUPER IN DEPTH SO THAT YOU CAN ADDRESS THIS COMMON PROBLEM IN YOUR OWN GARAGE.

(JOE)>> PROJECT ULTRA VIOLET, OUR 1970 DODGE CHALLENGER RESTO MOD, IS NEARING THE NEXT PHASE. AFTER REPLACING THE ROOF AND PUTTING A HIGH END FULL CHASSIS UNDER IT, WE'RE READY TO FINISH OFF

THE SHEET METAL WORK.

(TOMMY)>> NOW WE'VE GOT MOST OF IT KNOCKED OUT,

INCLUDING GETTING THE QUARTER PATCHED. NOW THE DOORS AND FENDERS, WELL THEY WERE IN PRETTY GOOD SHAPE. SO WE WENT AHEAD AND HOSED ON A COUPLE OF COATS OF PRIMER.

BUT THERE ARE A COUPLE OF ISSUES THAT NEED TO BE

ADDRESSED, AND ONE OF THOSE, WELL THAT'S THE TRUNK PAN. WHEN WE GOT THIS CAR, WE KNEW IT WAS IN NEED OF SOME ATTENTION. THAT'S ONE BIG REASON TO GET A CAR BLASTED IF

YOU'RE GOING FOR A HIGH END BUILD BECAUSE IT REVEALED THE TRUE EXTENT OF THE DAMAGE. IT'S PRETTY ROTTEN AND PROBABLY BEYOND TRYING TO SAVE.

(JOE)>> THERE ARE SOME SPOTS ON THIS CAR WHERE WE CAN SIMPLY MADE PATCH PIECES TO FILL IN THE HOLES.

SINCE THAT TRUNK PAN IS BEYOND THE PATCHING POINT THOUGH, WE'RE GONNA OUTRIGHT REPLACE IT. AND TO MAKE THAT HAPPEN WE'LL USE THIS REPLACEMENT PIECE WE GOT FROM CLASSIC INDUSTRIES. YOU CAN USE THE ENTIRE TRUNK FLOOR OR USE SECTIONS OF IT DEPENDING ON THE DAMAGE OF WHAT YOU'RE REPLACING.

(TOMMY)>> NOW WE'RE NOT GONNA USE THE ENTIRE PANEL FOR OUR APPLICATION, AND THERE'S A COUPLE OF REASONS WHY. WELL ORIGINALLY THIS FLOOR GOES UP AND UNDER THE TAIL PANEL, AND TO PUT IT IN WE'D HAVE TO REMOVE IT. ALSO THE PAN IS SO WIDE, WELL EITHER THE QUARTER WOULD HAVE TO COME OFF OR THE TAIL PANEL ITSELF JUST TO SLIDE IT IN AS ONE BIG UNIT. SO WE'RE GONNA END UP CUTTING IT DOWN THE MIDDLE ON THE NEW PART. WHICH AFTER A LITTLE BIT OF BODY WORK, YOU'D NEVER NOTICE. TO START WITH, LAYING OUT A ROAD MAP FOR YOUR CUTTING IS A GOOD IDEA. YOU WANT TO PAY ATTENTION TO SEVERAL THINGS. WHERE ARE THE BRACES UNDER THE PAN, WHAT PARTS OF THE FACTORY PAN ARE GOING TO STAY IN THE CAR, AND WHERE ARE THE SPOT WELDS THAT WILL HAVE TO BE CUT FOR REMOVAL.

(JOE)>> YOU KNOW TOMMY, WE COULD MAKE A LOT FASTER

BUSINESS OF THIS IF WE USED THE PLASMA CUTTER

INSTEAD OF A SAW I GUESS.

(TOMMY)>> YEAH, BUT BEING SLOW AND TRUE IS SOMETIMES BETTER, RIGHT?

(JOE)>> RIGHT!

THIS IS EXACTLY THE KIND OF THING THAT THE BODY SAW WAS MADE FOR. SO IF YOU'VE GOT ONE, IT'LL BE SUPER HANDY

FOR A PROJECT LIKE THIS. BE SURE TO CUT SHALLOW WHEN YOU GO OVER THE TOP OF BRACES SO YOU DON'T CUT INTO THEM AS WELL.

NOW THAT WAS A LOT OF CUTTING BUT WE'RE READY

TO MOVE ON TO THE NEXT JOB, WHICH IS WHAT?

(TOMMY)>> IT'S GONNA BE DRILLING OUT A WHOLE

BUNCH OF SPOT WELDS. SO I'M SURE YOU WANT TO BE A PART OF THAT, RIGHT?

(JOE)>> I WANT TO BE A PART OF TAKING A BREAK.

(TOMMY)>> JUST LIKE WHEN WE SWAPPED THE ROOF SKIN ON THIS CAR, THE TRUNK PAN HAS ITS FAIR SHARE OF SPOT WELDS TO KEEP IT MARRIED TO THE FRAME WORK. USE A SPOT WELD CUTTER ON THE ONES THAT ARE ATTACHED TO THE BRACES SO THAT YOU DON'T ACCIDENTALLY PUNCH THROUGH THE BRACE. THERE'S STILL A LITTLE METAL THAT HAS TO BE CUT OUT. THESE THINGS DON'T JUST FALL OUT BY THEMSELVES. AN AIR HAMMER IS ANOTHER HANDY TOOL TO HAVE FOR REMOVING ONE OF THESE PANS. LIKE WITH YOUR CUTTING TOOLS THOUGH, THIS THING IS PRETTY AGGRESSIVE. SO DON'T MESS UP YOUR BRACES WHILE YOU'RE REMOVING THE SHEET METAL.

WELL GUYS WE'VE BEEN MAKING SOME PRETTY GOOD PROGRESS HERE IN THE TRUNK BUT WE'VE STILL GOT A WAYS TO GO. I'M GONNA HAVE TO TAKE THE BODY SAW AND RIP RIGHT ACROSS THROUGH HERE TO GET THIS BIG CHUNK OUT OF THE WAY. AND THEN FOLLOW UP WITH SOME MORE SPOT WELD DRILLING TO GET THIS PIECE OFF THE TUB.

(JOE)>> WE'RE SWAPPING OUT THE SPOT WELD CUTTER FOR A THREEEIGHTHS DRILL BIT SO THAT WE CAN MAKE A PILOT HOLE FOR THE BODY SAW.

SINCE WE DON'T WANT TO SLICE THROUGH AN

ADDITIONAL BOTTOM LAYER OF METAL HERE, WE'LL SWITCH TO THE CUTTING WHEEL TO FINISH THE CUT.

(TOMMY)>> INSIDE THE TUB, A QUARTER INCH KAN KUT DRILL BIT WILL MAKE SOME GOOD PILOT HOLES TO DRILL OUT THESE SPOT WELDS. THEN BACK TO THE THREEEIGHTHS BIT. WE CAN USE A REGULAR BIT HERE SINCE IT'S OKAY TO PUNCH THROUGH BOTH LAYERS.

WITH ALL THAT STUFF OUT OF THE WAY, WELL IT'S TIME TO DO SOME GRINDING HERE ON THE SPOT WELDS AND SOME HAMMER DOLLY WORK TO STRAIGHTEN THIS STUFF OUT.

(JOE)>> THE FLATTER YOU CAN GET THE SURFACE IN THESE SPOTS, THE BETTER YOUR NEW PANEL WILL ATTACH TO THE BRACING. THE UNIFORM SURFACE ALLOW THE NEW METAL TO LAY DOWN CORRECTLY WHEN IT'S TIME TO PLUG WELD THE PIECES IN. IN ADDITION A LITTLE HAMMER AND DOLLY WORK WILL STRAIGHTEN THE EDGES BACK OUT, AND THEY GET GRINDED TOO.

(ANNOUNCER)>> STILL AHEAD, GET IN YOUR ZEN ZONE BECAUSE WE'LL SHOW YOU HOW PATIENT TRIMMING CAN GIVE

YOUR TRUNK PAN A PERFECT FIT. WE'LL EVEN INCLUDE A SECRET TECHNIQUE FOR BUTTING THE EDGES.

(JOE)>> WE'RE GETTING REALLY CLOSE TO INSTALLING OUR REPLACEMENT TRUNK FLOOR. BUT BEFORE WE DO, CHECK OUT THE RUST INSIDE THOSE RAILS BACK HERE.

NOW WE'RE GONNA BE COVERING THEM UP REAL SOON, SO THIS IS OUR ONLY CHANCE TO TAKE CARE OF THAT RUST WHILE WE'VE GOT IT. AND THAT'S WHAT THIS LOCTITE EXTEND RUST TREATMENT IS ALL ABOUT.

THIS IS A LITTLE BIT OF INSURANCE, AND THIS IS THE

TIME TO USE IT SINCE THAT METAL WILL NEVER SEE THE LIGHT OF DAY AGAIN.

AT THIS POINT THE MAJORITY OF THE FACTORY METAL THAT NEEDED TO GO IS OUT OF HERE. SO WE'RE ABOUT READY FOR THAT REPLACEMENT PIECE FROM CLASSIC INDUSTRIES. HOW DO WE GET GOING ON THAT?

(TOMMY)>> WELL FIRST OF ALL, LIKE JOE MENTIONED, SINCE WE LEFT A PORTION OF IT, WE'VE GOT TO DO A LITTLE BIT OF MEASURING TO SEE EXACTLY WHERE I NEED TO CUT THAT NEW PANEL. OUR FIRST POINT OF MEASUREMENT IS GOING TO BE HERE AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS LITTLE STAMPING TO WHERE WE SLICED IT. YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE TO MEASURE IT IN TWO

DIFFERENT SPOTS SO THAT BOTH OF THEM ARE SQUARE. THAT'S AN INCH AND A HALF. ALSO ON THE NEW PIECE, WE WANT TO COME BACK AND CUT IT A LITTLE BIT HIGH ON THE TOP OF THIS LITTLE STAMPING RIDGE SO THAT WE CAN COME BACK AND FILE FIT IT IF YOU WILL. SO THAT'LL GIVE US A LITTLE EXTRA METAL TO WORK WITH. NOW WE'VE GOT TO TRANSFER ALL THE INFORMATION TO OUR NEW PANEL, AND IT'S PRETTY MUCH STRAIGHT FORWARD. INCH AND A HALF HERE AND AN INCH AND A HALF HERE. NOW I'LL PLACE SOME NICE LITTLE DOTS AROUND THE PERIMETER WHERE WE WANT TO START MAKING OUR CUT. THEN SOME MASKING TAPE WILL GIVE ME AN EASY TO SEE EDGE TO CUT UP AGAINST. AND THEN THAT GOOD OLE BODY SAW.

IT'S SEEN SOME ACTION TODAY FOR SURE.

DON'T FORGET THE CORNERS!

ALRIGHT GUYS, I KNOW WE MENTIONED EARLIER ABOUT CUTTING THIS THING IN HALF BECAUSE IT WOULDN'T FIT, BUT WE'RE GONNA GIVE IT A SHOT JUST TO SEE BECAUSE IF IT DOES FIT, IT'LL SAVE US A LITTLE BIT OF TIME.

GETTING CLOSER!

WELL NOW WE'VE GOT TO DO A LITTLE TRIMMING. THAT SAVED US A BUNCH OF WORK, BUT IT'S STILL HITTING RIGHT HERE IN THE MIDDLE. SO WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO KINDA NOTCH OUT AROUND THAT. AND THEN DO A LITTLE MORE TRIMMING ON THIS EXCESS, BUT IT'S BETTER TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU CUT IT TOO LONG THAN TOO SHORT CAUSE IT'S EASIER TO TRIM IT UP

THEN TRYING TO STRETCH THIS THING.

(JOE)>> TAKING A LOOK AT WHERE IT'S BINDING UP, A FEW MARKS WILL TELL US WHERE ADDITIONAL CUTS NEED TO BE MADE. LIKE WE SAID, THAT BODY SAW IS CARRYING THE BULK OF THE CUTTING. BUT IF YOU DON'T HAVE ONE, A GOOD CUTTING WHEEL CAN DO A LOT OF THIS FOR YOU. SOME HAIRY SPOTS MIGHT REQUIRE SOMETHING ELSE, LIKE TIN SNIPS. A LITTLE EXTRA TRIMMING CAN ALSO BE DONE WITH THE PAN IN THE CAR.

(TOMMY)>> NOW OFTEN TIMES, WHENEVER YOU GET NEW SHEET METAL, IT'S VERY CLOSE BUT NOT DEAD ON. RIGHT HERE IN THE MIDDLE OF THIS CURVE, THE LITTLE LIP THAT TURNS DOWN THAT WELDS INTO THE CORNER, WELL IT'S ACTUALLY AT AN ANGLE. SO WE NEED TO TAKE IT BACK OUT AND HAMMER IT SQUARE IF YOU WILL SO THAT WHENEVER IT SLIDES INTO PLACE IT'LL GO STRAIGHT DOWN INSTEAD OF DIGGING INTO THE WHEEL TUB.

A DOLLY ON THE BACK SIDE WILL HELP KEEP THE EDGES STRAIGHT AND ALSO MAKES THE PROCESS GO A LITTLE FASTER SINCE YOU CAN PUT PRESSURE ON IT FROM THE BACK SIDE AS WELL.

SINCE THE CORNER IS WANTING TO CRINKLE UP, WE'LL HAVE TO MAKE A RELIEF CUT TO LET THE TWO PIECES OVERLAP SLIGHTLY.

AND BACK IN THE CAR AGAIN!

THAT FITS A WHOLE LOT BETTER NOW. AND WE'VE STILL GOT TO DO A LITTLE BIT MORE TRIMMING DOWN HERE ON THE END TO LET THIS THING LAY ON DOWN. BUT DON'T GET DISCOURAGE WHENEVER YOU'RE DOING SOMETHING LIKE THIS BECAUSE IT TAKES SEVERAL

TRIES TO KEEP TRIMMING AND TRIMMING TO GET THAT PIECE JUST WHERE IT NEEDS TO BE. NOW IF YOU JUST TOOK IT AND THREW IT IN THE HOLE, AND NAILED IN PLACE AS THEY SAY, WELL THERE AIN'T ENOUGH SEAM SEALER AND UNDERCOATING TO MAKE THIS THING LOOK LIKE MUCH FROM THE TOP OR THE BOTTOM SIDE.

(JOE)>> LIKE TOM SAID, PROPERLY FITTING ONE OF THESE PANELS MIGHT TAKE A LOT OF TRIAL AND ERROR, IN ADDITION TO PLACING IT AND REMOVING IT FROM THE CAR QUITE A BIT.

BUT A PROPER REPAIR CAN'T BE RUSHED.

(ANNOUNCER)>> STICK AROUND FOR THE PROPER PLACEMENT

PROCEDURE FOR THOSE PLUG WELDS THAT'LL HOLD IN THE NEW PAN!

(JOE)>> WELL WE ARE BACK TO FINISH UP THE TRUNK FLOOR TRANSPLANT ON OUR DODGE CHALLENGER. THOSE CLAMPS WE ADDED UNDERNEATH GOT THE REPLACEMENT PIECE ALL LOCATED PROPERLY, HOWEVER THEY ALSO ADDED SOME EXTRA TENSION, PARTICULARLY BACK HERE. SO WE'RE GONNA ADD A COUPLE OF KLICOS, ONE BACK HERE, ONE UP FRONT, REMOVE THE CLAMPS, AND MOVE ON. USING AN EIGHTH INCH BIT, WE'LL PUNCH THROUGH THE TOP AND BOTTOM LAYER TO PUT IN THE KLICOS. THESE THINGS ARE A STAPLE OF PANEL REPLACEMENT, ALLOWING YOU TO ATTACH PANELS TO THE CAR BUT LEAVING THE OPTION TO MOVE THEM AROUND IF NEED BE.

OH, AND WATCH THOSE CLAMPS WHEN THEY COME OFF.

(TOMMY)>> I'VE GOT A TIP I WANT TO SHOW YOU THAT I USE FOR FITTING THESE PANELS NICE AND TIGHT. WHAT I DO IS, USING AN AIR SAW, IS I'LL ACTUALLY SLICE INTO HERE, AND THEN RUN UP HILL JUST A BIT, AND THEN ALL THE WAY ACROSS. AND WHAT THAT DOES IS THAT ALLOWS ME TO CUT THROUGH

BOTH PIECES, GIVING ME A PERFECT FIT.

THE THEORY HERE IS THAT YOU'RE USING THE CURVE, AKA THE LINE CREATED BY REMOVAL OF METAL, TO ALIGN THE PANELS UP FOR YOU. THIS IS MUCH EASIER THAN CUTTING AND FITTING THEM SEPARATELY.

NOW YOU CAN SEE MY CUT WASN'T THAT STRAIGHT BUT

THE TWO PANELS MATCH PERFECTLY. THE NEXT THING WE NEED TO DO IS TAKE A MARKER, MAKE A FEW MARKS HERE ON THE TRUNK PAN TO KNOW EXACTLY

WHERE TO DRILL SOME HOLES TO WELD THIS RAIL TO IT.

(JOE)>> I'VE BEEN MAKING MARKS INSIDE THE LINES THAT TOMMY DREW THAT REPRESENT THE WIDTH OF EACH RAIL. WE KNOW THAT EACH LIP ON EACH RAIL MEASURES THREEFOURTHS OF AN INCH. SO IF WE GET RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THAT MARK

WE'LL BE ON THE MONEY.

I'M GONNA START WITH AN EIGHTH INCH PILOT HOLE, FOLLOWED BY A THREEEIGHTHS BIT LARGE ENOUGH TO DO SOME PLUG WELDING AND GET THIS THING IN PLACE.

AFTER THAT WE'LL JUMP UP TO A THREEEIGHTHS BIT TO FINISH OUT THESE HOLES.

THE ONES ALONG THE EDGE ARE EASIER TO DEAL WITH. WE'LL BUST OUT OUR HOLE PUNCH AND LET IT DO ITS THING.

(TOMMY)>> ALRIGHT GUYS, WE'RE TO THE POINT WE CAN START MELTING SOME WIRE. I'M GONNA TACK WELD IT ON THIS SIDE AND WORK IT ALL THE WAY ACROSS. REMEMBER THIS IS TACKING, NOT WELDING, IN CASE YOU'D HAVE TO MOVE IT AROUND SOME MORE. THIS GAP BETWEEN THE TWO PANELS IS WHAT YOU'RE LOOKING FOR.

THIS ONE BACK HERE, WELL IT'S TOO TIGHT.

SO YOU JUST SIMPLY TAKE THAT BODY SAW, RUN BACK THROUGH IT, AND IT'LL OPEN IT UP AND GIVE YOU THE PERFECT AMOUNT OF GAP FOR YOUR WELD.

(ANNOUNCER)>> STILL AHEAD IT'S THE FLOOR FINALE AS WE FINISH OFF THIS SIZEABLE STERN SURGERY TO COMPLETE OUR TRUNK TRANSFORMATION.

(TOMMY)>> WHILE YOU WERE GONE I WENT AHEAD AND FINISHED TACKING THE BACK SEAMS OF THE NEW PAN. I HAD TO DO A LITTLE MORE TRIMMING TO MAKE IT FIT,

BUT THAT'S NO BIG DEAL. I'M ALSO HAVING JOE HOLD A PRY BAR TO PUSH THE METAL DOWN SO I CAN DO THE FIRST FEW PLUG WELDS, AKA ROSETTE WELDS. ALRIGHT GUYS, WE'VE GOT OUR PANEL TACKED INTO POSITION AND WE'RE READY TO START DOING THE ROSETTE WELDS. NOW SOMETIMES THOSE THINGS CAN BE A LITTLE BIT TRICKY.

SO YOU NEED TO SPEND SOME TIME AND GET YOUR WELDER DIALED IN JUST RIGHT. AND ALSO A TIP FOR YOU IS MAKE SURE BOTH THE PANELS

ARE SANDWICHED AS TIGHT AS POSSIBLE. THAT'LL HELP A BUNCH.

(JOE)>> OH I'M SURE ENJOYING MYSELF HOLDING THAT PRY BAR, BUT IT'S PRETTY IMPORTANT TO KEEP THE PAN HELD DOWN AGAINST THE SURFACE OF THE

BRACE FOR A GOOD WELD. THERE'S A LOT OF THESE ROSETTE WELDS THAT HAVE TO BE DONE TO GET THE PAN ATTACHED. IT'S A GOOD THING TOM FITS SO WELL INTO TIGHT SPACES, RIGHT?

(TOMMY)>> WELL ALRIGHT GUYS, WE'VE GOT ALL THE ROSETTE WELDS DONE. NOW WE JUST NEED TO FINISH WELDING RIGHT HERE ACROSS THE TAIL PAN WHERE WE MADE OUR INCISION. THEN AFTER THAT WE'LL HAVE TO DO A LITTLE BIT OF GRINDING BUT IT'S GONNA LOOK LIKE A MILLION BUCKS WHEN WE'RE ALL DONE. NOW JUST LIKE IF YOU WERE WELDING ON A BODY PANEL, LIKE A DOOR OR FENDER, THIS METAL IS PRETTY THIN.

SO YOU HAVE TO BE CAREFUL TO AVOID DOING TOO MUCH AT ONCE SO THAT YOU DON'T WARP IT.

NOW I'LL BREAK YOU OUT THE BIG ELECTRIC GRINDER TO DRESS EVERYTHING UP REAL PRETTY. THAT INCLUDES BOTH THE REAR SEAM AND THE ROSETTE WELDS.

(JOE)>> ONCE IT'S DONE, YOU CAN SEE THE HUGE

DIFFERENCE THAT PUTTING IN A NEW PAN HAS MADE. AND WE DIDN'T EVEN HAVE TO BODY WORK IT SINCE IT WENT IN PRETTY WELL.

(TOMMY)>> WELL ALRIGHT GUYS, WE'RE PRETTY MUCH DONE. ALL WE REALLY NEED TO DO IS SPRAY ON SOME PRIMER, BUT WE'LL DO THAT WHENEVER WE PRIME THE ENTIRE CAR.

AND THIS REPAIR TURNED OUT REALLY NICE. AND AFTER ALL, THAT'S WHAT YOU WANT TO SEE. A GOOD REPAIR IS ALMOST INVISIBLE.

(JOE)>> THE LETTERS OER STAND FOR ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT RESTORATION, AND THAT COMPANY'S BEEN THE GO TO PLACE FOR RESTORATION PROJECT PARTS LIKE THIS. WHAT IS IT? WELL IT'S AN ENGINE PAD MOUNT FOR A FIRST GEN CAMARO. IT'S IN THE CORRECT OE THICKNESS, COSMETICALLY CORRECT, AND IT'S DESIGNED TO POSITION YOUR ENGINE WITH PROPER HOOD CLEARANCE. NOW SUMMIT RACING HAS THEM FOR ALL KINDS OF CHEVY AND

FIREBIRD APPLICATIONS, WITH PRICES STARTING AT ABOUT $19 BUCKS.

(TOMMY)>> IF YOU'RE CONVERTING YOUR ENGINE OVER FROM CARBURETION TO FUEL INJECTION,

EDELBROCK'S GOT A KIT THAT'LL HOOK YOU UP.

THIS UNIVERSAL SUMP TANK KIT DOES NOT REQUIRE A RETURN AND WILL WORK WITH YOUR STOCK TANK AND LOW VOLUME PUMP. IT COMES WITH ALL THE HARDWARE THAT YOU NEED TO INSTALL IT UNDER THE HOOD. IT WILL SUPPLY 49 TO 60 PSI FUEL, AND FOR ABOUT $550 BUCKS YOU CAN HAVE YOURSELF ONE.

(JOE)>> I'VE GOT A QUESTION FOR YOU. HOW WOULD YOU LIKE TO PUMP UP THE PERFORMANCE OF YOUR LATE MODEL MUSCLE MACHINE WITHOUT DEFLATING YOUR BUDGET? WELL SCT POWER PROGRAMMERS CAN OFFER ALL THAT PLUS BETTER FUEL ECONOMY.

YOU JUST PLUG THIS INTO YOUR DIAGNOSTIC PORT, SELECT ONE OF THE PRELOADED TUNES FROM THE EASY TO USE MENU, AND YOU'RE DONE, THAT'S IT! IN ADDITION TO BETTER PERFORMANCE, YOU CAN CLEAR DIAGNOSTIC CODES AND USE THIS AS A DATA LOGGER. SCT POWER PROGRAMMERS ARE AVAILABLE FOR A VARIETY OF CARS AND TRUCKS. AND GUESS WHAT, WE'LL HAVE ANOTHER DETROIT MUSCLE AVAILABLE FOR YOU NEXT TIME, SEE YOU THEN!
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