More Dirt Cheap Fun '86 Toyota Pickup Episodes

More Lambo-styled Rock Bouncer Episodes

XOR - Xtreme Off-Road Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

3M
Sanding Pad, Scotch-Brite, Nylon, Maroon, 9 in. Length, 6 in. Width, General Purpose, Set of 20
Bend Tech
Bending Software
Dupli-Color
Adhesion Promoter, Flat, Clear, 11 oz. Aerosol, Each
Dupli-Color
Paint, General Purpose, Enamel, Flat, Black, 12 oz., Aerosol, Each
Dupli-Color
Paint, General Purpose, Enamel, Semi-Gloss, Machinery Gray, 12 oz., Aerosol, Each
Dupli-Color
Paint, Metallic Coating, Enamel, Textured, Charcoal Metallic, 11 oz., Aerosol, Each
Fiberwerx
84-88 Toyota Ivan Dan (Sharp) Fenders
Fiberwerx
84-88 Toyota Ivan Dan (Sharp) Hood
Strong Hand Tools
Welding Table, BuildPro, 78 in. Length, 38 in. Width, 24 in. Height, Each
The Industrial Depot
The Industrial Depot - Fasteners, Hardware, and Shop Supplies

Episode Transcript

(ANNOUNCER)>> IN THE OFF ROAD WORLD IT DOESN'T TAKE

A LOT OF MONEY TO HAVE A WHOLE LOT OF STYLE. TODAY ON XTREME OFF ROAD

WE'LL UPDATE OUR PICK UP WITH FRESH PAINT AND FENDERS AND PROTECT IT WITH A CUSTOM BUILT EXO CAGE. WE'LL HELP YOU PICK THE RIGHT WELDING WIRE FOR YOUR SHOP. PLUS WE'LL SET THE WHEEL BASE OF OUR ROCK BOUNCER FOR MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE.

(IAN)>> TODAY I'M A BODY MAN. WELL NOT REALLY A BODY MAN, BUT TODAY WE ARE GOING TO CHANGE THE COLOR ON PROJECT DIRT CHEAP FUN. I'VE GOT THE CHASSIS COMPLETELY FINISHED, AND I'VE GONE AHEAD AND GIVEN IT A GOOD COAT OF UNDERCOATING, AND IT LOOKS GREAT. SO I DON'T WANT TO DROP THE LUMPY OLD BEIGE CAB BACK ON IT. I WANT IT TO LOOK JUST AS GOOD. BUT REMEMBER, WE'RE WORKING ON A TIGHT BUDGET HERE. SO I'M GONNA CHANGE THE COLOR OF THIS CAB THE SAME WAY YOU GUYS WOULD AT HOME, WITH A BUNCH OF RATTLE CANS.

I WILL START THE PROCESS BY JAMMING THE TRUCK. A PROFESSIONAL PAINTER DOES THIS WHEN PERFORMING A COLOR CHANGE ON A VEHICLE SO THE DOOR JAMBS WILL MATCH THE EXTERIOR COLOR. I'M JUST SPRAYING SOME KEY AREAS OF OUR YOTA WITH SOME FLAT BLACK.

THEN THE ENTIRE CAB IS SANDED DOWN USING A DUAL ACTION SANDER AND SOME 320 GRIT PAPER.

THE ENTIRE CAB IS THEN MASKED OFF. I'M USING ACTUAL MASKING PAPER, BUT NEWSPAPER WILL ALSO WORK.

I HAVE A TWO STAGE PAINT PROCESS PLANNED FOR THIS TRUCK. THE FIRST COAT IS DUPLICOLOR MACHINERY GRAY, AN ACRYLIC ENAMEL PAINT THAT GIVES GREAT COVERAGE. REMEMBER THOUGH, WITH A SPRAY CAN, MULTIPLE LIGHT COATS WILL PREVENT RUNS IN PAINT.

ONCE THE GRAY IS DRY I KNOCK THE SHINE OFF THE PAINT WITH SOME FINE GRIT SCOTCH BRITE PADS BEFORE APPLYING

MULTIPLE COATS OF TEXTURED SILVER METALLIC AS OUR FINAL FINISH.

I'M DOING ALL THIS WORK IN WHAT'S CALLED A PREP BOOTH. IT'S A CURTAINED AREA THAT EXHAUST THE PAINT FUMES TO THE OUTSIDE. BUT AT HOME JUST WAIT FOR A NICE, WARM, SUNNY DAY WITH NO WIND AND YOU CAN EASILY PERFORM THIS PAINT JOB IN YOUR DRIVEWAY. PAINTING A TRAIL RIG WITH A RATTLE NOT ONLY SAVES US MONEY, BUT TOUCH UPS AFTER A DAY OF WHEELING WILL BE VERY EASY.

I DIDN'T PAINT THE FRONT END OF THE TRUCK BECAUSE THE FENDERS THAT WE GOT WITH OUR TOYOTA WERE DAMAGED. AND TO REPLACE THEM WITH A SET OF STOCK FACTORY PIECES WAS GONNA RUN ABOUT $180 TO $200 DOLLARS. SO INSTEAD OF DOING THAT I DECIDED THAT SINCE WE ONLY SPENT $24 BUCKS ON OUR PAINT JOB WE COULD SPEND A LITTLE BIT EXTRA CASH AND PICK UP SOME STYLE. I ORDERED A SET OF FIBERGLASS FENDERS FROM FIBERWERX. NOW THIS ARE WHAT ARE CONSIDERED OFF ROAD WEST COAST RACING STYLE FENDERS. THEY'RE BULGED OR FLARED. THEY'RE FOUR INCHES WIDER THAN A STOCK FENDER AND THE WHEEL OPENING SITS HIGHER TO GIVE YOU MORE TIRE MOVEMENT BEFORE IT CONTACTS THE FENDER. DEFINITELY NEEDED IN OFF ROAD RACING, NOT SO MUCH ON AN OFF ROAD ROCK CRAWLER. BUT IT WILL CERTAINLY CHANGE THE LOOK OF OUR WHEELER. NOW I GOT A HOOD TO GO WITH THE FENDERS THAT'LL SIMPLY REPLACE THE FACTORY ONE. AND THE REASON WE DIDN'T PAINT THESE ALONG WITH THE CAB IS BECAUSE THE PREP WORK IS A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENT.

FIBERGLASS PARTS ARE MADE IN MOLDS, AND TO GET THE PARTS OUT OF THE MOLD A MOLD RELEASE WAX IS USED. THIS WAX IS OFTEN STILL ON THE PARTS WHEN YOU GET THEM.

SO IT HAS TO BE REMOVED BEFORE PAINTING. I'M USING AN ACTUAL WAX AND GREASE REMOVER.

BUT IF YOU'RE WORKING AT HOME, SOME ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL WILL DO THE SAME JOB. ONCE FULLY CLEANED THE PREP AND PAINT ARE SIMILAR TO THE CABS.

FIRST SANDING WITH 320 GRIT PAPER, THEN WIPE DOWN TO REMOVE THE SANDING DUST. THERE IS ONE ADDITIONAL STEP, WHICH IS TO

SPRAY ON TWO COATS OF ADHESION PROMOTER.

IT'S USED WHENEVER PAINTING PLASTIC OR FIBERGLASS TO PREVENT ANY OFF GASING THROUGH THE FINISHED PAINT.

ONCE IT DRIES WE'LL LAY DOWN SEVERAL LIGHT COATS OF MACHINERY GRAY.

SCOTCHBRITE THE PIECES AND FINISH OFF WITH MULTIPLE COATS OF DUPLICOLOR TEXTURED SILVER METALLIC.

WITH THE HOOD AND FENDERS ON THE CAB, PROJECT DIRT CHEAP FUN IS LOOKING GOOD.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT WE DESIGN AND BUILD A CUSTOM EXO CAGE ON A BUDGET. PLUS TOUGH AXLES FOR OUR ROCK BOUNCER.

(IAN)>> WITH OUR CHASSIS FINISHED UP AND FRESH COAT OF PAINT ON THE CAB, IT'S TIME TO BUILD WHAT'S CALLED AN EXO CAGE TO PROTECT IT AND US WHEN

WE'RE ON THE TRAIL. BUT BEFORE WE CAN PULL ANY TUBING AROUND THE BODY OF THIS TRUCK WE'VE GOT TO GET THE CAB BACK ON THE FRAME.

I ALWAYS LIKE TO START MY EXO CAGES RIGHT DOWN HERE AT THE ROCK SLIDERS. NOW THE JOB OF A ROCK SLIDER IS TO BASICALLY PICK UP ANY OBSTACLE THAT COMES OFF THE FRONT TIRE THAT'S LARGE ENOUGH TO GET INTO THE ROCKER PANELS. INSTEAD OF HITTING THE BODY, IT'LL HIT THIS TUBE. THE TRUCK WILL DRAG ACROSS IT, AND THEN IT'LL BE PICKED UP BY THE REAR TIRE SO WE CAN CONTINUE DOWN THE TRAIL

WITHOUT ANY BODY DAMAGE OR EVEN GETTING HUNG UP. NOW I AM GONNA DO SOMETHING A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENT WITH THIS EXO CAGE. WE GOT THIS BIG WIDE BODY FIBERGLASS FENDERS ON THE FRONT. INSTEAD OF TRYING TO BUILD THE CAGE OUT AROUND THE OUTSIDE OF THESE FENDERS, I'M GONNA GO AHEAD AND PULL

IT UP IN BEHIND THEM. THAT WAY WE CAN WHEEL IN NICE OPEN AREAS WITH THE FENDERS ON. IF WE START TO GET INTO SOME TIGHT TRAILS AND IT LOOKS LIKE WE MIGHT DAMAGE THEM, WE JUST SIMPLY POP THEM OFF. WE'LL JUST ATTACHED THEM WITH JUST A FEW BOLTS. WE'LL STORE THEM IN THE TUBE BED. WE CAN WHEEL THE TIGHT TRAIL AND THEN INSTALL THEM WHEN WE'RE DOWN WITH NO DAMAGE TO OUR GLASS. A 45 DEGREE BEND ON SOME INCH AND FIVE EIGHTHS DOM WILL ALLOW OUR ROCK SLIDERS TO FIT UP BEHIND THE FENDER.

THE BED WILL START WITH A SINGLE HOOP FROM THE BACK OF THE CAB TO THE EDGE OF OUR REAR FRAME.

WHEN YOU'RE WORKING WITH TUBING AND WORKING ON A BUDGET LIKE WE ARE ON THIS TRUCK, THIS IS A PLACE WHERE IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO SPEND A LITTLE MONEY TO SAVE A LITTLE MONEY. THE NEXT PIECE OF TUBING THAT I NEED TO BEND IS THE HOOP THAT'S GONNA GO ALL THE WAY AROUND THE CAB OF THE TRUCK. AND THE PROBLEM IS, AND THAT'S A VERY DIFFICULT SERIES OF BENDS TO SET UP. AND IF YOU MAKE ONE MISTAKE ON ANY OF THE SIX BENDS THAT YOU HAVE TO DO, A PIECE OF TUBING IS GARBAGE AND YOU'VE THROWN THAT MONEY AWAY. SO IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO GO AHEAD AND INVEST IN A TUBE BENDING SOFTWARE PROGRAM. NOW THIS PARTICULAR ONE IS BEND TECH PRO. IT ALLOWS ME TO DRAW THE HOOP ON THE COMPUTER AND THEN IT GIVES ME THE CUT LENGTH AND THE LOCATION AND ANGLE OF ALL OF THE BENDS.

THIS INSURE THAT I'M NOT GONNA HAVE ANY SCRAP PIECES OF TUBING.

IF I DREW THE WHOLE EXO CAGE ON HERE, WHICH YOU CAN DO,

IT'LL ALSO GIVE ME AN ENTIRE LIST OF EXACTLY HOW MUCH TUBING I NEED TO BUY. AND THAT WAY I'M NOT WASTING A BUNCH OF MONEY WITH A PILE OF LEFTOVER SCRAP.

THE MAIN HOOP IS THEN BENT, PLACED ON SOME JACK STANDS, AND LEVELED TO THE CAB.

THEN IT'S NOTCHED TO FIT THE ROCK SLIDERS.

TUBING HAS BEEN ADDED TO THE MAIN HOOP TO FINISH OUT THE BACK OF OUR TRUCK.

WITH THE FENDERS REMOVED, THE ROOF BARS ARE FIT ALONG WITH THE INNER FENDER BAR. THEN THE ROCK SLIDER TIES IT ALL TOGETHER.

NOW THERE'S A COUPLE OF THINGS YOU WANT TO PAY ATTENTION TO WHEN BUILDING AN EXO CAGE. THE FIRST, GIVE YOURSELF A GOOD GAP AROUND THE BODY. YOU WANT TO RUN IT TIGHT SO THE VEHICLE ISN'T PHYSICALLY LARGER AND DIFFICULT TO FIT INTO THE TRAILS. BUT YOU ALSO WANT ENOUGH SPACE SO WHEN A TRAIL OBSTACLE HITS THE EXO CAGE AND IT FLEXES A BIT, IT'S NOT GONNA DAMAGE THE BODY THAT IT'S THERE TO PROTECT. NOW GIVING IT THAT EXTRA GAP WILL ALSO HELP WHEN IT COMES TO WELDING THE CAGE. YOU HAVE TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU CAN GET A GOOD QUALITY WELD AROUND ALL YOUR TUBE JOINTS. MAKE SURE THEY'RE SPACED AWAY FROM THE BODY WHERE YOU PUT THOSE NOTCHES IN. IF THEY ARE TOO CLOSE TO THE BODY, YOU CAN'T GET THE WELDER IN BEHIND THEM, THEN THE ONLY OPTION THAT YOU HAVE IS TO PLAN TO REMOVE THE CAGE FROM THE BODY, FINISH WELD IT, AND THEN PUT IT BACK ON. AND THAT'S JUST ONE EXTRA STEP. IT'S BEST TO AVOID IT IF YOU CAN. AND RIGHT HERE I'M SURE I CAN GET TO EVERY SINGLE JOINT ALL THE WAY AROUND WITH A MIG WELDER WITHOUT HAVING TO REMOVE THE CAGE.

SO EVEN THOUGH I MAY HAVE TO ADD A FEW EXTRA BARS HERE AND THERE, RIGHT NOW IT'S TIME TO START WELDING.

HOW'S OUR BUDGET DOING? TODAY WE SPENT $36 BUCKS ON PAINT, $80 DOLLARS ON STEEL, AND $350 ON FIBERGLASS. $466 DOLLARS SPENT TODAY WILL ADD TO OUR TOTAL OF $3,820, GIVING US A TOTAL AMOUNT SPENT OF $4,286 BUCKS.

(ANNOUNCER)>> WHEN IT COMES TO WELDING WIRE, THERE ARE TONS OF OPTIONS. WE'LL HELP YOU FIND THE BEST OPTION FOR YOUR PROJECT.

(ANNOUNCER)>> NOW SHOP TIPS FOR STRONGER, SAFER WELDS.

(IAN)>> TODAY WE'RE GONNA CONTINUE OUR IN DEPTH LOOK AT MIG WELDING. NOW SO FAR WE'VE TALKED ABOUT CHOOSING A WELDER AND WHAT SHIELDING GAS IS AND WHY YOU NEED IT. TODAY WE'RE GONNA HAVE AN IN DEPTH LOOK AT THE ACTUAL MIG WELDING WIRE.

THERE ARE THREE THINGS THAT DETERMINE WHAT TYPE OF WIRE

YOU'LL PUT IN YOUR MACHINE. THE FIRST IS GONNA BE THE SIZE OF THE SPOOL. MIG WELDING WIRE COMES IN SMALL TWO POUND SPOOLS, MEDIUM SIZE 11 POUND SPOOLS, AND LARGE 33 POUND SPOOLS. NOW HONESTLY IF YOUR JUST GONNA BE WELDING MAYBE EVERY OTHER WEEKEND IN YOUR GARAGE, YOU DON'T

NECESSARILY WANT TO STEP UP TO THE LARGE 33 POUND SPOOL BECAUSE THAT'S A LOT OF WIRE THAT'S GONNA BE EXPOSED TO THE ELEMENTS OVER A LONG PERIOD OF TIME. YOU CAN SEE WHEN YOU BUY THIS TYPE WIRE IT'S WRAPPED IN PLACE, AND THAT'S TO PROTECT IT FROM DEVELOPING CORROSION WHEN IT SITS ON THE SHELF. AND THE SAME THING CAN HAPPEN TO IT WHEN IT'S SITTING INSIDE THE WELDER.

YOU MAY JUST WANT TO GRAB A BUNCH OF SMALL TWO POUND SPOOLS LIKE WE HAVE IN THIS WELDER HERE. THAT WAY YOU CAN HAVE DIFFERENT THICKNESSES OF WIRE AND DIFFERENT SET UPS DEPENDING ON

HOW YOU'RE GONNA WELD. IF YOU'RE WELDING THIN MATERIAL LIKE SHEET METAL FOR BODY PATCH PANELS, YOU'LL WANT TO USE

A THINNER O-24 WIRE. FOR THICKER MATERIAL LIKE ROLL CAGE TUBING OR BUMPERS, O-30 OR O-35 WIRE WORKS WELL. AND FOR INDUSTRIAL APPLICATIONS LIKE HEAVY PLATE WORK AND STRUCTURAL STEEL, A THICKER O-45 WIRE WILL BE WHAT YOU NEED. NOW EACH WIRE THICKNESS WILL REQUIRE A CHANGE OF DRIVE ROLLS INSIDE THE MACHINE TO FEED IT CORRECTLY.

IF YOU DO NOT MATCH THE DRIVE ROLLS TO THE WIRE SIZE, SLIPPAGE CAN OCCUR IN THE LINE CAUSING SPORADIC WELDS. NOW IF YOU'VE OPTED TO PURCHASE A LARGE PROFESSIONAL STYLE WELDER LIKE I HAVE HERE, YOU WILL NOTICE THAT THE SPINDLE THAT THE WIRE SPOOLS FIT ON IS TOO LARGE TO FIT THE SMALLER TWO POUND SPOOL. SO YOU HAVE TO RUN THE 11'S OR THE 33'S. BUT THERE IS A WAY TO REMOVE ANY CONTAMINATION OR CORROSION THAT BUILDS UP ON THE WELDING WIRE BEFORE IT ENTERS THE DRIVE ROLLS. ITS THIS SMALL WELDING WIRE CLEANER. BASICALLY SANDWICHES OVER THE WIRE AND IT'S A PIECE OF STEEL WOOL THAT GETS LOCKED IN PLACE WITH A SMALL RETAINER. NOW IT BASICALLY SCRUBS THE WIRE BEFORE IT DRAWN INTO THE LINER AND UP TO THE TORCH, AND WILL REMOVE ANY

CONTAMINATION THAT'S BUILT UP ON THE WIRE EVEN IT SITS IN THE MACHINE FOR MONTHS AT A TIME. NOW THE LAST THING WE NEED TO TALK ABOUT WHEN WE'RE REFERRING TO WELDING WIRE IS GOING TO BE WELDING WIRE DESIGNATION. IT'S A SERIES OF LETTERS AND NUMBERS THAT ARE STAMPED ONTO THE SIDE OF THE SPOOL. THE TWO MOST COMMON TYPES OF MIG WELDING WIRE ARE ER 70STHREE, AND ER 70SSIX. THE "E" REFERS TO ELECTRODE, MEANING WHERE THE CURRENT IS TRANSFERRED BY THE WELDER. "R" MEANS THAT IT'S A FILLER MATERIAL OR ROD THAT'S CONSUMED IN THE WELDING PROCESS. 70 IS THE MINIMUM TENSILE STRENGTH IN THOUSANDTHS, IN OUR CASE 70,000 POUNDS. "S" REFERS TO A SOLID WIRE WITH NO FLUX INSIDE. AND THE LAST NUMBER IS THE CHEMICAL MAKE UP OF THE WIRE. THREE SERIES WIRE IS BEST USED ON CLEAN, OIL FREE MATERIAL AND HAS A LOWER SILICON AND MANGANESE CONTENT. SIX SERIES IS BETTER IN A DIRTY WELD ENVIRONMENT BECAUSE THE WIRE CONTAINS LARGER AMOUNTS OF DEOXIDIZER, THAT WILL HELP THE FILLER MATERIAL BOND WITH THE BASE METAL. AND WITH THAT KNOWLEDGE UNDER YOUR BELT, YOU'RE ALMOST READY TO FIRE UP YOUR MACHINE AND START WELDING.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT HEAVY DUTY AXLES THAT CAN HANDLE OUR 700 HORSEPOWER BEAST.

(IAN)>> NOW WE'RE REALLY CLOSE TO GETTING READY TO PULL OUR CHASSIS OFF OF OUR FRAME TABLE AND GET IT SITTING ON SOME TIRES AND WHEELS. BUT BEFORE I DO THAT I'D LIKE TO GET THE AXLES UP

UNDERNEATH IT SO I CAN MAKE SURE THAT THEY'RE SQUARE WITH THE CHASSIS JUST BY MEASURING OFF OF OUR JIG. BEFORE WE CAN PUT AXLES UNDERNEATH IT WE'RE GONNA NEED SOME AXLE HOUSINGS. BEFORE WE STARTED THIS PROJECT WE WENT OUT AND MET WITH SOME ROCK BOUNCERS AND GOT SOME ADVICE ON WHAT WE NEEDED TO BUILD OUR CAR. AND THEY HAD A KEY PIECE OF INFORMATION ABOUT THE AXLES.

(BJ)>> IF YOU DO NOT HAVE AXLES THAT WILL HOLD THE MOTOR, YOU CAN BUILD ALL THE MOTOR IN THE WORLD AND YOU WON'T DO NOTHING BUT SPIN YOUR WHEELS.

(IAN)>> NOW TO GET THAT STRENGTH ON OUR RIG WE'RE GONNA BE RUNNING CORPORATE 14 BOLTS

BOTH FRONT AND REAR. NOW THE 14 BOLT COMES THE BACK OF CHEVY ONE TON TRUCKS, HAS A 10.5 INCH RING GEAR, AND ALSO HAS A VERY UNIQUE PINION DESIGN. IT NOT ONLY HAS A FRONT AND REAR BEARING ON THE PINION BUT IT ALSO HAS THIS NOSE BEARING THAT HELPS PREVENT RING GEAR DEFLECTION, AND THAT STRENGTHENS UP THE GEAR SET. NOW WE'RE GONNA TAKE THESE AXLES ONE STEP FURTHER. YOU CAN SEE I'VE ALREADY HAD THE AXLE TUBES REMOVED FROM THE HOUSING. SO NOW I'M GONNA BE REPLACING THEM WITH SOME THREE AND A HALF INCH, HALF INCH WALLED DOM. THIS WILL JUST GIVE OUR AXLE TUBES A LOT MORE STRENGTH AND WE'RE GETTING ONE STEP CLOSER TO HAVING A SET OF BOMB PROOF AXLES IN OUR BOUNCER.

THE DOM TUBES ARE SLID INTO OUR 14 BOLT CENTER SECTIONS.

THEN THE AXLE ASSEMBLIES ARE PLACED ON JACK STANDS SEVEN AND THREE QUARTER INCHES AWAY FROM THE EDGE OF OUR FRAME TABLE.

WHEEL BASE IS VERY IMPORTANT WHEN BUILDING A ROCK BOUNCER.

TOO LONG AND YOU'RE GONNA GET HUNG UP ON TRAIL OBSTACLES ON YOUR BELLY PAN. TOO SHORT AND THE BUGGY HAS A TENDENCY TO FLIP END OVER

END ON STEEP HILL CLIMBS. NOW WE TALKED TO A LOT OF DRIVERS AND THEY SAID THE MAGIC NUMBER IS BETWEEN 110 AND 115 INCHES, AND THAT IS

ABOUT WHAT I'VE GOT, 111.5. I WAS ABLE TO CHECK THAT MEASUREMENT JUST BY MEASURING OFF THE END OF MY FRAME TABLE. AND THAT'S ONE OF THE NICE THINGS ABOUT HAVE A JIG SETUP LIKE THIS. NOW I BUILT THIS TABLE SPECIFICALLY FOR THIS SHOP AND SPECIFICALLY FOR BUILDING THIS TYPE OF A BUGGY. BUT IF YOU WANTED A FRAME TABLE IN YOUR SHOP, THERE IS ANOTHER OPTION. STRONG HAND TOOLS PRODUCES THESE BUILD PRO SERIES OF WELDING TABLES. NOW THEY HAVE AN INCREDIBLY STRONG FOUR BEAM STRUCTURE UNDERNEATH THAT YOU MOUNT THESE PRECISION GROUND MACHINE SET UP PLATES ONTO. THE SETUP PLATES HAVE 57 CNC MACHINED HOLES IN THEM, AND YOU SET THEM UP AN INCH AND THREE QUARTER APART. THAT GIVES YOU MULTIPLE QUICK SETUP OPTIONS FOR DIFFERENT JIGS WHEN YOU'RE FABRICATING. NOW A TABLE LIKE THIS IS PERFECT FOR ANYONE LOOKING

TO STEP UP AND PERFORM SOME SERIOUS FABRICATION. AND THEY'RE AVAILABLE IN A BUNCH OF DIFFERENT SIZES ALL FROM SUMMIT RACING.
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