More Raging Bull Rock Bouncer Episodes

XOR - Xtreme Off-Road Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

ARB 4x4 Accessories
ARB Intensity LED Driving Lights - Flood Beam (AR32F)
Competition Engineering
Motor Plate, Front, Aluminum, 0.250 in. Thick, Chevy, 7.4L, Each
Dupli-Color
Grease and Wax Remover, 11 oz., Each
Dupli-Color
Paint, Metallic Coating, Enamel, Textured, Silver Metallic, 11 oz., Aerosol, Each
Dupli-Color
Paint, Nite Shades Coating, Translucent, Black, 7 oz., Aerosol Spray Can, Each
Jones Machine Racing Products, Inc.
Custom BBC Accessory Drive System for Rock Bouncer Chassis
Loctite
Threadlocker, 243 Medium Strength, 6ml., Each
Streetwerkz Custom Powder Coating
Streetwerkz is a state-of-the-art powder coating and media blasting facility in Columbus, Ohio
The Industrial Depot
The Industrial Depot - Fasteners, Hardware and Shop Supplies
Warn Industries
Winch, Electric, 12 V, 16,500 lb., Roller Fairlead, 90 ft. Line, 12 ft. Wired Remote, Each

Episode Transcript

(ANNOUNCER)>> OUR HIGH HORSEPOWER ROCK BOUNCER IS BACK FROM THE POWDER COATERS COMPLETE WITH A LAMBORGHINI THEMED PAINT JOB. AND NOW FINAL ASSEMBLY BEGINS WITH A BIG BLOCK. PLUS THE CRAWLER HAULER GETS AN INDUSTRIAL STRENGTH WINCH, POWERFUL LIGHTING, AND MORE.

(IAN)>> KICKING THINGS OFF TODAY ON OUR CRAWLER HAULER PROJECT. IT'S TIME TO DEAL WITH SOME OF THE AESTHETICS ON THIS TRUCK. ALL THE HEAVY LIFTING IS DONE. THE FLAT BED HAS BEEN FABRICATED, REAR SUSPENSION HAS BEEN MODIFIED, THE NEW DIESEL ENGINE, TRANSMISSION, AND TRANSFER CASE ARE IN BETWEEN THE FRAME RAILS. IT'S TIME TO START WORKING ON MAKING THIS TRUCK LOOK LIKE A TFOUR, TFIVE CAMION THAT COULD BE RACING IN THE DAKAR RALLY. IT'S GONNA START BY DITCHING THIS BASHED UP FRONT BUMPER. [ impact wrench spinning ]

(IAN)>> OUR CUSTOM BUMPER IS GOING TO BE BUILT

AROUND A VERY HEAVY DUTY WINCH. YOU'VE GOT TO REMEMBER, THE CRAWLER HAULER IS NOT A LIGHT RIG. YOU THROW A BUGGY ON THE BACK AND GET THIS THING STUCK, WE'RE GONNA NEED SOME SERIOUS PULLING

POWER TO GET IT FREE. SO I'M GOING TO START BY BUILDING A MOUNTING PLATE FOR THIS WARN 16.5 TI WINCH. NOW THIS WINCH CAN PULL 16,500 POUNDS WITH A SINGLE LINE PULL. AND IT USES THIS HEAVY DUTY SEVENSIXTEENTHS

AIRCRAFT CABLE TO GET THE JOB DONE. ANOTHER NICE FEATURE OF THIS WINCH IS THE FACT IT HAS A THERMOMETRIC SAFETY SWITCH. IF WE'RE EVER USING THIS WINCH FOR AN EXTENDED PERIOD OF TIME AND THE MOTOR STARTS TO OVERHEAT, IT WILL WARN US ON THE HANDHELD BY LIGHTING UP THE SMALL LITTLE RED LIGHT. THAT'LL LET US KNOW THAT WE HAVE TO LET THE WINCH TAKE A BREAK BEFORE CONTINUING THE JOB.

LARGE WINCHES REQUIRE THICK MOUNTING PLATES. SO I'M CUTTING OURS FROM SOME THREEEIGHTHS INCH THICK STEEL. NOW WITH THE WINCH MOUNT LAID OUT, THE OPENING IS CUT FOR THE ROLLER FAIR LEAD AS WELL AS THE MOUNT FOR THE CONTROL BOX.

[ plasma torch cutting ]

(IAN)>> MOUNTING HOLES ARE THEN DRILLED INTO THE PLATE. [ grinder spinning ]

(IAN)>> THEN THE WINCH IS BOLTED INTO PLACE. AND THE PLATE IS BOLTED ONTO OUR FRAME RAIL.

EVEN THOUGH THIS WINCH MOUNT PLATE IS VERY THICK, THREEEIGHTHS OF AN INCH, WE CAN'T JUST RELY ON IT ALONE TO BE ABLE TO SUPPORT THE WINCH. JUST MOUNTING IT ACROSS THESE TWO FRAME RAILS LIKE THIS, IT COULD EASILY BEND IF WE USED ALL THE POWER OF THIS WINCH WHEN TRYING TO PULL THE CRAWLER HAULER OUT FROM BEING STUCK. NOW THE WAY TO PREVENT THE PLATE FROM BENDING IS TO ADD SOME TYPE OF LATERAL SUPPORT. I COULD CAP THE TOP OF THE BUMPER WITH A STRIP OF STEEL. ACTING LIKE AN IBEAM WOULD PREVENT IT FROM BENDING. INSTEAD I'M GOING TO DO SOMETHING SIMILAR BUT I'M GOING TO USE SOME ROUND TUBE.

I'M GONNA TAKE A PIECE OF TUBING, BASICALLY BUILD A TUBE BUMPER, WRAP AROUND THE FRONT OF THE TRUCK. I'LL BUILD SMALL STAND OFFS THAT'LL TIE INTO OUR WINCH PLATE. THAT WAY IN ORDER FOR THE PLATE TO BEND, IT'S ALSO GONNA HAVE TO BEND THE TUBE BUMPER AND THAT WILL MAKE IT GOOD AND STRONG. USING INCH AND THREE QUARTER DOM TUBING FOR THE MAIN BUMPER TUBE, TWO 90 DEGREE ANGLES ARE BENT TO WRAP AROUND THE CAB.

THEN STAND OFFS ARE CUT, NOTCHED, AND TACKED INTO PLACE. [ welder crackling ]

(IAN)>> THE BOTTOM TUBE INDEXES OFF THE BOTTOM OF THE WINCH PLATE, AND AN UPPER STINGER TO MATCH IS ALSO TACKED INTO PLACE. THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE CAB IS CHECKED BY RAISING THE BODY. OH, PERFECT! NOW OUR BUMPER'S BUILT OUT OF THE DOM TUBING FOR A COUPLE OF REASONS. IT'S A WINCH BUMPER, SO IT NEEDS TO BE STRONG, AND ALSO JUST IN CASE WE EVER GET INTO ANYTHING OFF

ROAD IT'S THERE TO PROTECT THE BODY. NOW IF WE WERE BUILDING AN ACTUAL DAKAR RALLY RACE TRUCK I'D USE THE SAME MATERIAL AND MAYBE BUILD A ROLL CAGE INSIDE OR AN EXOCAGE AROUND THE OUTSIDE OF OUR CAB. BUT WE'RE NOT BUILDING A RACE TRUCK HERE. WE JUST WANT IT TO LOOK LIKE A RACE TRUCK. SO FOR THE REST OF THE TUBE WORK I'M GONNA USE THIS SMALL INCH AND THREE QUART LIGHTWEIGHT 16 GAUGE EXHAUST TUBING THAT I GOT FROM MAGNAFLOW EXHAUST PRODUCTS. IT'S BASICALLY THEIR HEADER TUBING. I JUST HAD THEM SEND ME A BUNCH OF STICKS. I'M GONNA BUILD A FULL EXOCAGE AROUND THE OUTSIDE OF OUR CAB. IT'S GONNA DO A COUPLE OF THINGS FOR US. IT'S GONNA LOOK PRETTY DARN COOL, BUT IT'LL ALSO GIVE US A SPOT TO MOUNT SOME OFF ROAD LIGHTS ON THE FRONT OF OUR TRUCK. WHEN WE'RE ALL SAID AND DONE IT WON'T ADD A PILE OF WEIGHT TO OUR CAB, AND THAT'LL MAKE FLIPPING THE CAB FORWARD STILL NICE AND EASY. THE CAB HAS AN ARCH TO THE FRONT SHEET METAL. SO THE TWO FRONT EXOCAGE TUBES ARE ROLLED TO MATCH. MOUNTING PLATES ARE DRILLED, AND THE FRONT OF THE CAB DRILLED AND NUTSERTS INSTALLED. [ welder crackling ]

(IAN)>> TABS ARE THEN ADDED FOR A SET OF FOUR ARB INTENSITY LED LIGHTS. THESE EIGHT INCH WATERPROOF LIGHT ASSEMBLIES CONTAIN 32 LED'S EACH, AND PUT OUT 8,200 LUMENS PER FIXTURE. I'M INSTALLING TWO FLOODS AND TWO SPOTS TO ENSURE THAT WE'LL BE ABLE TO FIND OUR WAY TO THE MOST

REMOTE WHEELING SPOTS. WHOO, THAT'S BRIGHT, WHOO HOO, SHINNY LIGHTS!

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT WE FRESHEN UP OUR ISUZU WITH A BUDGET PAINT JOB. PLUS WE TAKE A TRIP TO THE POWDER COATERS TO SEE WHAT IT TAKES TO GET THAT HIGH END FINISH.

(IAN)>> WHEN I FINISH UP ALL THE WELDING ON THIS FRONT LIGHT BAR, I'M GONNA GO AHEAD AND PAINT IT A NICE FLAT BLACK COLOR. AND THAT WILL REALLY POP AGAINST THE CAB OF OUR CRAWLER HAULER. NO, I'M NOT GONNA LEAVE THAT CAB IN THAT CHALKY WHITE COLOR THAT IT'S BEEN ALL THIS TIME. THE LAST THING I'M GONNA DO TODAY IS PAINT THE CAB

OF THAT TRUCK, AND I'M GONNA DO IT ON THE CHEAP.

WHILE WE'RE PERFORMING ALL OF THIS WORK ON THE FRONT OF OUR CRAWLER HAULER, THIS IS THE PERFECT TIME TO GO AHEAD AND PAINT THE CAB OF THIS TRUCK. I AM GETTING REALLY TIRED OF DEALING WITH THIS WORN OUT, FADED WHITE PAINT THAT BASICALLY RUBS OFF ON ME EVERY TIME I TOUCH THE TRUCK. NOW THERE'S A COUPLE OF WAYS WE COULD GO ABOUT PAINTING THIS RIG. WE COULD LOAD IT UP, TAKE IT DOWN TO A BODY SHOP, WRITE THEM A BIG OLE CHECK. THEY'LL DO A BUNCH OF PREP WORK, AND APPLY A NICE CUSTOM PAINT JOB TO THIS TRUCK. THE PROBLEM IS IS THIS IS A CRAWLER HAULER, AND WE

CONVERTED IT OVER TO FOUR WHEEL DRIVE FOR A REASON.

AT SOME POINT IN TIME I FULLY EXPECT TO BE DRIVING THIS TRUCK THROUGH THE WOODS. AND WE'RE GONNA HAVE TREE BRANCHES SLIDING DOWN THE SIDE, RUINING THAT CUSTOM PAINT JOB. SO INSTEAD I'M JUST GONNA GO AHEAD AND PAINT IT RIGHT HERE IN THE SHOP. I'M GONNA USE A WHOLE BUNCH OF AEROSOL CANS TO GET THE JOB DONE. THE NICE THING IS THAT THE CAB OF THIS TRUCK, THERE'S NOT A LOT OF REAL ESTATE. THERE'S A WHOLE BUNCH OF GLASS.

SO WE'RE NOT GONNA BURN THROUGH A LOT OF PRODUCT PAINTING IT HERE IN THE SHOP. WITH THOSE AEROSOL CANS, IF WE EVER SCRATCH IT, WE'LL BE ABLE TO TOUCH IT UP. AND JUST BECAUSE WE'RE USING RATTLE CANS DOESN'T MEAN WE WON'T BE ABLE TO ADD A CUSTOM TOUCH. THE FIRST THING I HAVE TO DO IS GET RID OF ALL THE STICKERS ON THE TRUCK'S DOOR. THE QUICKEST WAY TO DO THIS IS WITH A RAZOR BLADE UNDER EACH ONE TO PEEL IT OFF.

THEN THE ENTIRE CAB IS SANDED WITH A DUAL ACTION SANDER AND 320 GRIT PAPER. THE RANDOM ORBITAL PATTERN THAT THIS SANDER CREATES PROVIDES ENOUGH TOOTH IN THE PAINT FOR OUR NEW COATING TO STICK BUT DOES NOT CREATE SANDING MARKS

THAT WILL BE SEEN IN THE FINISHED COAT. THEN THE ENTIRE CAB IS WIPED DOWN WITH DUPLICOLOR PREP SPRAY TO REMOVE ANY WAX OR GREASE ON THE BODY. THIS IS ESSENTIAL WHEN THE TRUCK HAS BEEN IN THE SHOP AS LONG AS THIS ONE HAS. WITH ALL THE WINDOWS MASKED, I APPLY MULTIPLE LIGHT COATS OF TEXTURED SILVER METALLIC UNTIL I HAVE FULL COVERAGE ON THE TRUCK. OBVIOUSLY I NEED TURN SIGNALS AND CLEARANCE LIGHTS FOR THE CAB, BUT I DON'T REALLY WANT BRIGHT

ORANGE PLASTIC ON MY NEW CUSTOM PAINT JOB. SO A COAT OF NIGHTSHADES WILL BLACK THEM OUT AND STILL ALLOW THE LIGHT TO SHINE THROUGH.

I'M SURE YOU'VE FIGURED OUT BY NOW THAT I AM A HUGE FAN OF THIS DUPLICOLOR TEXTURED SILVER METALLIC PAINT WHEN DEALING WITH FLAT BLACK ACCENTS. I JUST THINK THEY LOOK REALLY WELL TOGETHER. BUT THERE'S METHOD TO MY MADNESS ON THIS PARTICULAR PROJECT. MY PLAN IS TO HAVE THE ENTIRE REAR BED ASSEMBLY AND FRONT BUMPER SPRAYED BY A PROFESSIONAL TRUCK BED COATING COMPANY. AND THAT WILL HAVE TEXTURE TO IT. IT'LL BASICALLY TIE THE WHOLE TRUCK TOGETHER.

BUT I'VE GOT TO SAY, AN AFTERNOON'S TIME, A COUPLE OF RATTLE CANS, AND SOME BLACK OUT, THIS CRAWLER HAULER LOOKS GREAT.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT A BEHIND THE SCENES LOOK AT POWDER COATING.

(IAN)>> THERE'S CERTAIN MILESTONES THAT YOU REACH WHEN BUILDING A TUBE BUGGY THAT HELP PUSH YOU TOWARDS THE FINISH LINE. GETTING THE CHASSIS BACK FROM POWDER COAT IS ONE OF THOSE MOMENTS. YOU CAN REALLY SEE THE END OF THE BUILD IN SIGHT. AND THAT'S EXACTLY WHERE WE'RE AT WITH OUR ROCK BOUNCER PROJECT RAGING BULL. AFTER FINISHING UP ALL THE WELDING ON THE CHASSIS, I LOADED IT ONTO A TRAILER AND HAULED IT UP TO COLUMBUS, OHIO, HOME OF STREETWERKZ' CUSTOM COATINGS. THEY SPECIALIZE IN HIGH END POWDER COAT FINISHES WITH MANY OVER THE TOP OPTIONS.

(JOSH)>> WE START OFF BY DEGREASING EVERYTHING IF THERE'S GREASE. THEN WE MEDIA CLEAN IT. WE RUN IT THROUGH A PHOSPHATE WASH TO SEAL AND PROTECT THE SURFACE.

(IAN)>> ONCE CLEAN, THE POWDER IS APPLIED IN A

SPRAY BOOTH AND THEN THE PARTS ARE ROLLED INTO THE OVEN AND BAKED TO THE FINAL FINISH IS CURED.

MOST ROCK BO0UNCERS ARE BUILT AROUND A THEME, AND OURS IS THE COMBINATION OF A LAMBORGHINI SPORTS CAR AND HILL KILLING OFF ROAD RIGS. AND THAT'S WHY WHEN IT CAME TIME TO PICK THE COLOR FOR OUR CHASSIS AND WHEELS, I WANTED SOMETHING VERY SPECIFIC. THIS IS LAMBORGHINI RUSSO RED.

NOW RUSSO IS A POPULAR SURNAME IN ITALY. LOOSELY TRANSLATED IT MEANS "OF RED HAIR", AND IT WAS A VERY POPULAR COLOR ON MANY DIFFERENT MODELS OF LAMBORGHINIS. AND AFTER COMPARING A BUNCH OF DIFFERENT SPRAY OUTS, THIS IS THE FINAL COLOR MATCH COLOR THAT JOSH CHOOSE FOR OUR CHASSIS. OFF ROAD CARS LIVE IN A WORLD WHERE FORM HAS TO FOLLOW FUNCTION. NOW YES, CUSTOM POWDER COAT DOES LOOK REALLY COOL, BUT THERE'S A REASON WE PREFER IT OVER TRADITIONAL SPRAY PAINT. IT HAS TO DO WITH STRENGTH.

(JOSH)>> WHEN IT'S FULLY CURED IT'S A LOT MORE FLEXIBLE. YOU CAN ALMOST BEND A POWDER COATED PART, DEPENDING ON ITS THICKNESS, 90 DEGREES

BEFORE YOU'LL HAVE DELAMINATION.

(IAN)>> AND EVEN THOUGH ON A BUGGY LIKE OURS HERE WE'RE NOT REALLY TRYING TO WORK INSIDE A BUDGET. HAVING A CHASSIS CUSTOM POWDER COATED CAN ACTUALLY BE CHEAPER THAN HAVING IT PAINTED.

(JOSH)>> FOR INSTANCE, YOUR CHASSIS, IF WE WERE TO WET SPRAY PAINT THAT. NOT ONLY WOULD IT NOT BE AS DURABLE AS POWDER COATING, BUT THE MATERIAL COSTS ALONE WOULD COST MORE THAN WHAT I'M GOING TO GIVE YOU A FINISHED PRODUCT FOR IN POWDER COATING.

(IAN)>> STREETWERKZ ALSO SPECIALIZES IN THE HYDRO DIPPING PROCESS, WHERE GRAPHICS ARE APPLIED TO INTRICATE PARTS.

(JOSH)>> YOU LAY A FILM ON TOP OF THE SURFACE OF THE WATER. ACTIVATE IT WITH A CHEMICAL, AND PUSH THE PART THROUGH THE IMAGE SO THAT YOU CAN GET 360 DEGREE COVERAGE OF THE IMAGE ON THE PART. BEFORE YOU WEREN'T ABLE TO HAVE REAL PRECISE,

INTRICATE GRAPHICS ADDED ONTO POWDER COATING. WHERE NOW WE CAN POWDER COAT A PART, DIP IT IN THE HYDRAGRAPHIC GRAPHIC, SAY FLAMES, OR SKULLS, OR CAMOUFLAGE, AND THEN ADD A POWDER COAT CLEAR ON TOP OF IT.

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP WE WEDGE THE BIG BLOCK INTO OUR ROCK BOUNCER WITH A FLEX PLATE TO TRANSMIT OVER 700 HORSEPOWER TO THE WHEELS.

(IAN)>> IN THE XOR SHOP OUR ROCK BOUNCER IS BACK FROM POWDER COAT AND IT'S TIME TO START THE PROCESS OF REASSEMBLY. TO GET THE ENGINE INTO THE CHASSIS I FIRST HAVE TO DISASSEMBLE SOME KEY ITEMS TO HELP MAKE IT FIT. THE JONES RACING FRONT DRIVE ASSEMBLY HAS TO BE

COMPLETELY REMOVED, ALONG WITH THE VALVE COVERS AND THE INTAKE.

THEN IT'S ONTO AN ENGINE STAND TO SWAP OVER THE OIL PAN THAT WAS USED TO DYNO THE ENGINE FOR THE NARROWER TRUCK OIL PAN THAT WE USED ON

OUR MOCK BIG BLOCK.

THE ENGINE CRADLE IS INSTALLED.

AND WITH THE ENGINE ON THE FLOOR, THE CHASSIS IS LOWERED DOWN OVER IT. ONCE ALL THE TUBE CLAMPS ARE ALIGNED, THE ENGINE IS BOLTED INTO PLACE. VALVE COVERS ARE REINSTALLED, AND THE INTAKE. I'LL LEAVE THE TOP OF THE INTAKE FULLY TAPED UNTIL IT'S TIME TO FIRE THE ENGINE JUST TO MAKE SURE THAT NO DIRT OR DEBRIS GETS DROPPED INTO IT. EVEN THOUGH OUR ENGINE CRADLE IS ESSENTIALLY THE MOTOR MOUNTS FOR OUR BIG BLOCK, AND I'VE BUILT MANY

TUBE BUGGIES WITH THAT EXACT SAME SETUP, A ROCK BOUNCER, IT'S A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENT.

SEE THE BEST WAY TO DESCRIBE A ROCK BOUNCER'S TRIP UP THE HILL WOULD BE VIOLENT.

BECAUSE OF ALL THAT ABUSE, I WANT TO ADD SOME

ADDITIONAL MOUNTS TO OUR BIG BLOCK. I'M GOING TO STEAL AN IDEA FROM THE WORLD OF DRAG RACING. THIS IS A FRONT MOTOR PLATE.

I PICKED IT UP FROM SUMMIT RACING. DRAG RACERS USE THESE TO MAKE SURE THAT 100 PERCENT

OF THE MOTOR'S HORSEPOWER IS TRANSMITTED INTO THE

CHASSIS TO CARRY IT DOWN THE TRACK. I'M GONNA USE THIS FRONT PLATE AS WELL AS A MID PLATE JUST TO ENSURE THAT OUR BIG BLOCK DOESN'T GO ANYWHERE. THE MOTOR PLATE NEEDS TO BE CLEARANCED FOR OUR FRONT UPPER SUSPENSION LINKS. I MADE THESE MARKS DURING THE MOCK UP STAGE ON OUR CHASSIS BUILD.

ONCE INSTALLED ONTO THE FRONT OF THE BLOCK, A TEMPLATE IS MADE FOR THE MOTOR MOUNTING PLATES.

THEY ARE CUT OUT SOME THREESIXTEENTHS INCH STEEL AND MOUNTING HOLES ARE DRILLED FOR BOTH THE CHASSIS AND THE MOTOR PLATE. A SMALL PIECE OF TUBING CONNECTS THE TWO.

WELD THEM...

GIVE THEM A COAT OF PAINT...

AND BOLT THE MOTOR PLATE TO OUR BUGGY. ANOTHER BENEFIT TO THE FRONT MOTOR PLATE DESIGN IS IT HELPS MAKE MOUNTING THE ACCESSORY DRIVES THAT MUCH SIMPLER. NOW WHEN THE ENGINE BUILDER PUT OUR MOTOR TOGETHER, THEY USED A JONES RACING FRONT DRIVE ASSEMBLY, AND IT'S PERFECT FOR RACING APPLICATIONS LIKE OUR BUGGY. IT HAS A NEW WATER PUMP PULLEY, NEW POWER STEERING

PUMP PULLEY, AND ALTERNATOR ALL MATCHED TOGETHER TO WORK PERFECTLY. THE NICE THING IS THAT IT'S FULLY TUNABLE AND DESIGNED TO WORK WITH A MOTOR PLATE. THAT'S WHY WHEN WE PULLED IT OFF THE ENGINE IT HAD THESE SMALL SPACERS BEHIND THE WATER PUMP BECAUSE THEY DYNO'ED IT WITHOUT A MOTOR PLATE ON THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE. THE FRONT SPROCKET THAT DRIVES EVERYTHING IS FULLY ADJUSTABLE. JUST MOVES IN AND OUT USING DIFFERENT SPACERS TO GET YOUR BELT ALIGNMENT PERFECT. AND BEST OF ALL IT PACKAGES DOWN NICE AND TIGHT, WHICH IS PERFECT FOR A ROCK BUGGY CHASSIS. NOW I'VE GOT TO TELL YOU, NOW THAT OUR MOTOR IS IN THE CHASSIS OF RAGING BULL, I CANNOT WAIT. I AM COUNTING THE SECONDS UNTIL WE GET TO KICK THIS ENGINE OFF A KILL SOME HILLS.
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