More Project Basket Case Episodes

Truck Tech Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

Accel
Ignition Tune-Up Kit, Chevy, GMC, Truck, Van, SUV, 7.4L V8, Kit
Dake
Arbor Presses - Ratchet Leverage, 3T
Dupli-Color
Duplicolor Specialty Chemicals, Acetone, 1 Qt
Ford Performance Parts
3.5L, 365 Horsepower, EcoBoost Crate Engine Kit from Ford Racing
Ford Performance Parts
Ford Racing, Engine Control Pack, Manual Transmission, 3.5L EcoBoost
Jim Weimer Rod Garage
53-56 Ford truck frames are made of fully TIG-welded 10-gauge steel for strength and durability, Complete MII hub-to-hub kit with double adjustable coilover suspension upgrade, Parallel four bar kit, Universal panhard bar kit
Matco Tools
BPHSET5 - 5 Piece Ball-Peen Hammer Set
Matco Tools
HSV13K - 13 Piece Holesaw Kit
Miller Electric Manufacturing Co.
Wireless Foot Controller, Eliminates Costly Cord Failures/Cord Tangles, Easy to Move & Reposition, Extends Welding Range to 90 ft, Increases Productivity, Robust & Reliable Design, Improves Safety, Long Battery Life, Easy to Use
QuickTime Inc.
Bellhousing, Cummins to NV4500
Summit Racing
Lowering Blocks/U-Bolts, Cast Iron, 2 in. Drop, Rear, Chevy, GMC, Kit
The Industrial Depot
The Industrial Depot - Fasteners, Hardware and Shop Supplies
WD-40
Aerosol, 12 oz., lubricant, water dispersant, penetrant, protectant

Episode Transcript

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY RYAN'S INSTALLING OUR ECOBOOST CRATE ENGINE IN BETWEEN THE FRAME RAILS OF OUR 1955 F-100. THEN HE'S MAKING HIS OWN CUSTOM ENGINE MOUNTS FOR OUR TWIN TURBO VSIX POWER PLANT. IT'S ALL TODAY HERE ON TRUCK TECH.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO TRUCK TECH. WELL TODAY WE'RE GONNA BE BUILDING SOME CUSTOM ENGINE MOUNTS. THAT WAY WE CAN GET OUR TWIN TURBO THREE POINT

FIVE LITER ECOBOOST VSIX AND FIVE SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION INSTALLED IN BETWEEN THE FRAME RAILS OF OUR '55 F-100. NOW THE FRAME IS BRAND NEW, IT'S FROM JW ROD GARAGE. AND WELL THERE'S NO ENGINE MOUNTS FOR THE FRAME SIDE. ON THE ENGINE BLOCK, WELL IT'S JUST THREADED BOSSES. WE DON'T HAVE ANY MOUNTS FOR THE ENGINE EITHER. SO WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO COME UP WITH SOMETHING SO WE CAN CONNECT THE TWO AND INSTALL THIS THING IN OUR NEW FRAME. THE FIRST STEP IS MOCK UP.

NOW IN BETWEEN THE LAST EPISODE WHERE WE FIRST

SHOWED YOU GUYS OUR NEW ENGINE FRAME AND THIS ONE, WELL I HAD A CHANCE TO KINDA GET A RUNNING START AND ALREADY MADE THE DRIVER'S SIDE ENGINE MOUNT. NOW WHEN DOING SO AND MOCKING THINGS UP I HAD FEW THINGS TO CONSIDER. I OBVIOUSLY WANTED THE ENGINE SITTING CENTERED IN BETWEEN THE FRAME RAILS, BUT I ALSO HAD CLEARANCE ISSUES TO CONSIDER WITH THE STEERING RACK, STEERING SHAFT, FIREWALL, AND TRANSMISSION TUNNEL.

LET'S TAKE A CLOSER LOOK. NOW THE STEERING RACK LOCATION WAS DICTATED BY WHERE THE MOUNTS WHERE WELDED TO THE FRAME.

LUCKILY FOR US OUR VSIX ENGINE HAS A REAR SUMP OIL

PAN, ALLOWING IT TO CLEAR THE CROSS MEMBER

AND THE STEERING RACK. NOW WE'VE GOT THE ENGINE LOWERED DOWN AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE TO STILL GIVE US A LITTLE BIT OF WIGGLE ROOM AND TO REDUCE THE OVERALL REARWARD ANGLE THAT THE ENGINE SITS AT IN THE ENGINE BAY. ALRIGHT NOW FOR THE TRANSMISSION TUNNEL THINGS ARE KINDA TIGHT. WE'VE GOT PLENTY OF ROOM AROUND THE BELL HOUSING, BUT THE TRANSMISSION ITSELF IS CLOSE TO THE FLOOR.

BUT WE'VE GOT ABOUT THREE QUARTERS OF AN INCH OF CLEARANCE AT THE TIGHTEST SPOT.

SO I THINK WE'RE IN GOOD SHAPE. NOW IF WE HAD GONE WITH THE SIX SPEED, I'M SURE WE'D BE DOING TRANSMISSION TUNNEL SURGERY JUST TO THE CLEARANCE WE NEED. BUT I THINK WE'RE OKAY AND GLAD WE WENT WITH A FIVE SPEED. ALRIGHT NOW FOR FIREWALL CLEARANCE, WELL WE HAVE

ABOUT AN INCH AND A HALF IN BETWEEN IT AND THE BACK OF THE CYLINDER HEAD. SO WE SHOULD BE IN GOOD SHAPE THERE. AND FOR THE STEERING SHAFT, WELL I JUST DESIGNED THE ENGINE MOUNT SO THE SHAFT DIDN'T RUN INTO IT.

ALRIGHT, NOW WITH THE ENGINE PLACEMENT PRETTY MUCH FIGURED OUT, I'VE GOT TO SAY I'M REALLY GLAD WE WENT WITH THIS SMALLER VSIX AND FIVE SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION.

WE KINDA GOT LUCKY. IT DIDN'T REQUIRE ANY MODIFICATIONS TO OUR OLD '55 TO GET THIS DRIVETRAIN TO FIT. IT'S JUST GONNA REQUIRE SOME CUSTOM MOUNTS TO GET IT TO WORK. SO LET'S GET STARTED ON THAT OTHER SIDE. NOW USING SOME THIN TEMPLATE CARDBOARD AND THE SMALLEST MATCO BALL PEEN HAMMER I'VE GOT, I'M JUST USING SOME LIGHT PRESSURE TO CREATE AN IMPRESSION ON THE CARDBOARD OF WHERE THE BOLT HOLES ARE.

NOW WITH THIS ONE INSTALLED, I HAVE MY OTHER HAND FREE TO GET SOME WORK DONE. THE SHARP EDGES OF OUR FRESHLY MACHINED BLOCK AND SOME LIGHT TAPPING FROM THIS HAMMER CREATE A VERY PRECISE TEMPLATE.

THIS TECHNIQUE WORKS ON THE BOLT HOLES AND THE OUTER EDGE OF THE THREADED BOSSES. THE PERIMETER OF THE MOUNTS TOO. WE CAN MAKE OUR PLATE.

NOW THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE ENGINE BLOCK IS PRETTY CLEAR. LOOKS LIKE THE ONLY OBSTRUCTION WOULD BE THE TURBO CHARGER. BUT AS MUCH AS I WANT TO BE LAZY AND LEAVE THE AIR CONDITIONING OFF OF THIS TRUCK, WELL IT'S NOT A RACE TRUCK AND COME SUMMER TIME WE'LL BE

WISHING WE HAD A/C. SO ONCE YOU HANG THE A/C PUMP WHERE IT GOES ON THE

SIDE OF THE BLOCK, WELL IT'S PRETTY PLAIN TO SEE THAT WE NOW HAVE A COUPLE OF HURDLES TO CLEAR. BUT I STILL THINK THERE'S ENOUGH ROOM TO DESIGN A MOUNT THAT WILL CLEAR EVERYTHING AND LOOK SIMILAR TO THE DRIVER'S SIDE. NOW USING THE CUTS IN THE CARDBOARD AS A GUIDE, I'M JUST GOING OVER THINGS WITH A MARKER TO MORE CLEARLY DEFINE WHERE I'M GONNA CUT. NOW YOU CAN MAKE THIS PLATE AS ORNATE OR AS SIMPLE AS YOU WANT TO. AS LONG AS IT HOLDS THE ENGINE UP, THAT'S ALL THAT REALLY MATTERS. ALRIGHT, TRANSFER THIS OVER TO METAL. NOW MOST OF THE LINES CONNECTING THESE BOLT HOLES ARE PRETTY STRAIGHT, BUT I DID HAVE TO BRING THE TOP LINE IN A LITTLE BIT TO CLEAR A PORTION OF THE BLOCK. AFTER MARKING OUR BOLT HOLES, WELL WE WENT AHEAD AND DRILLED ALL OF THEM WHILE IT WAS STILL ATTACHED TO THE REST OF THE METAL. DRILLING A LARGE PIECE OF METAL IS EASIER TO HOLD ONTO THAN A SMALL PIECE. AFTER CUTTING IT DOWN ON THE BAND SAW, A QUICK TRIP TO THE BELT SANDER TO FINISH THINGS UP.

ALRIGHT, NOW WITH THE PLATE IN PLACE, WELL AS PRECISE AS THIS METHOD IS, FOUR OF THE FIVE BOLT HOLES LINED UP GREAT, BUT THIS FIFTH ONE IS A LITTLE OFF, PROBABLY BY ABOUT A SIXTEENTH OR SO. SO RATHER THAN GO IN HERE AND OPEN UP ALL THESE

HOLES WITH A LARGER DRILL BIT, I'M JUST GONNA FOCUS ON THE ONE THAT DOESN'T LINE UP PERFECTLY, USE A CARBIDE BURR, GET THE CLEARANCE I NEED.

[ drill spinning ]

(RYAN)>> THAT SHOULD GIVE US WHAT WE NEED. ALRIGHT, GRAB MY A/C COMPRESSOR.

NOW WITH THE COMPRESSOR IN PLACE, I'M USING A MARKER TO BASICALLY MARK ITS PROFILE. AS LONG AS I STAY OUT OF THE GRAY AREA ON THE

ENGINE PLATE I SHOULD BE IN GOOD SHAPE AND IT SHOULD CLEAR OUR A/C PUMP. NOW AS AN ENGINE ISOLATOR, I'M JUST USING THIS SIMPLE POLYURETHANE BUSHING AND SLEEVE.

AND HERE'S THE TEMPLATE I USED WHEN DESIGNING THE MOUNT FOR THE OTHER SIDE, FOR THE DRIVER'S SIDE. IT LOOKS LIKE IT'LL WORK TO CONNECT THIS BUSHING TO THE PLATE AS WELL, MAYBE WITH SOME SLIGHT MODIFICATION, BUT I THINK WE'LL BE OKAY. SO I'M GONNA TURN THIS INTO METAL. NOW WITH THIS ENGINE MOUNT DESIGN, THE TUBE THAT HOLDS THE POLYURETHANE BUSHING IS ACTUALLY GONNA PASS THROUGH THE SIDE PLATE. SO I'M CUTTING A HOLE USING OUR MATCO HOLE SAW AND A LITTLE BIT OF WD 40 TO HELP THE HOLE SAWS LAST LONGER. AND WITH THE HOLE CUT, I'M JUST CLEANING OUT THE

EDGES WITH A CYLINDRICAL CARBIDE BURR. DON'T FORGET YOUR EYE PROTECTION. PERFECT! ALRIGHT, WITH THE SECOND PIECE OF METAL CUT OUT, HERE'S WHAT THE MOUNT IS GOING TO LOOK LIKE, AND HERE'S ABOUT WHERE WE WANT IT TO SIT ON THE PLATE BOLTED TO THE BLOCK.

WITH IT HERE IT'LL CLEAR THE A/C COMPRESSOR AND THE TURBO HOUSING. NOW I DO WANT PLATE THE TOP OF THIS MOUNT TO ADD A LITTLE BIT MORE STRENGTH AND TO MAKE IT LOOK NICER. BUT IT WOULDN'T LET ME HAVE ACCESS TO THAT TOP BOLT HOLE, WHICH I DEFINITELY NEED TO USE. SO WHAT I'M GONNA DO IS USE THIS TUBE SLEEVE AND A LONGER BOLT SO I CAN STILL PLATE THE TOP OF THAT MOUNT AND HAVE ACCESS TO THAT MUCH NEEDED BOLT HOLE. AND SINCE I'M GONNA BE TIG WELDING THIS STUFF, WELL I'VE GOT TO GET RID OF THIS MILL SCALE.

(ANNOUNCER)>> AFTER THE BREAK, RYAN FINISHES UP THE ENGINE SIDE OF HIS CUSTOM MOUNTS. AND LATER HE'S BUILDING UP THE FRAME SIDE OF THE MOUNT, STAY TUNED!

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP, WHERE WE'RE IN THE MIDDLE OF MAKING ENGINE MOUNTS SO WE CAN PLACE OUR ECOBOOST VSIX DOWN IN BETWEEN THE FRAME RAILS OF OUR OLD '55 F-100. NOW ALL THE PARTS THAT I HAD MOCKED UP I WENT AHEAD AND SAND BLASTED TO GET RID OF ALL THE MILL SCALE. NOW I'VE GOT SOME TIG WELDING TO DO. AFTER TACK WELDING THE TUBE TO THE PLATE TO MAKE SURE THINGS DON'T MOVE AROUND ON ME, I CAN GO AHEAD AND FULLY WELD THE MOUNT. NOW A NEW ADDITION TO OUR WELDING ARSENAL IS THIS WIRELESS FOOT PEDAL. IT'S JUST ONE LESS WIRE TO GET TANGLED UP. NOW I'M USING A ONESIXTEENTHS TUNGSTEN SHARPENED TO A POINT AND A ONESIXTEENTHS MILD STEEL FILLER ROD. AND LIKE YOU SAW, ABOUT 120 AMPS TO GET THE JOB DONE. A GOOD RULE OF THUMB IS TO USE ONE AMP OF CURRENT FOR EVERY THOUSANDTHS OF MATERIAL THICKNESS YOU'RE WORKING ON. IN OUR CASE THE TUBE HAS A WALL THICKNESS OF 120 THOUSANDTHS. SO WE'RE IN GOOD SHAPE THERE. TO WELD THE THREESIXTEENTHS THICK

SIDE PLATES TO THE BASE PLATE I'LL TURN THE CURRENT UP A LITTLE BIT IF NECESSARY. I THINK WE'RE DONE.

ALRIGHT, WITH OUR ENGINE MOUNT COOLED OFF A LITTLE BIT AND BOLTED TO THE SIDE OF THE BLOCK, AND OUR TUBE

SPACER IN PLACE, YOU CAN SEE THAT THIS PIECE OF METAL THAT I'VE GOT CUT OUT TO PLATE THE TOP OF THE MOUNT ISN'T GONNA WORK UNTIL I NOTCH IT TO GO AROUND THE TUBE. SO WHAT I'M GONNA DO IS JUST WELD THIS TUBE INTO PLACE, THAT WAY WE CAN REMOVE THE ENGINE MOUNT AS AN ASSEMBLY AND FINISH FITTING THIS PLATE UP ON OUR BENCH TOP. NOW TO HOLD THE SPACER IN PLACE I'M JUST USING A COUPLE OF MIG GUN TACK WELDS. I COULD HAVE MIG WELDED THIS ENTIRE MOUNT, BUT THE TIG WELDING LOOKS CLEANER AND IT MORE CLOSELY MATCHES THE QUALITY LEVEL OF THE BUILD ESTABLISHED BY THE FRAME AND THE DRIVETRAIN. I WANT EVERYTHING TO MATCH. I'M NOTCHED OUT THE TOP PLATE USING A BAND SAW. YOU CAN USE A CUTOFF WHEEL TO ACCOMPLISH THE SAME THING. AND SINCE I GOT A REALLY GOOD FIT UP WITH THIS TOP PLATE, I'M ABLE TO FUSION WELD IT IN PLACE WITHOUT ANY FILLER ROD. ON THE PLACES WHERE I DO NEED FILLER ROD I'M USING A SMALLER 40 THOUSANDTHS THICK ROD.

NOW ONCE I FINISH WELDING THE FLAT PORTION OF THE PLATE, I CAN GO AHEAD AND WORK IT AROUND THE CURVE IN THE SIDE PLATES USING A GOOD OLE FASHIONED HAMMER. NOW I'M GOING LITTLE BY LITTLE, BENDING SOME,

AND THEN WELDING IT INTO POSITION. IT'S EASIER THAN TRYING TO GET IT ALL AT ONCE.

FINISHED, WITH THE ENGINE HALF.

SNUG THIS DOWN, BUT I WILL NEED A LONGER ONE FOR

FINAL ASSEMBLY, BUT THIS WILL GET US THROUGH MOCK UP. CROSS YOUR FINGERS IT FITS. [ drill spinning ]

(RYAN)>> ALRIGHT, WITH THE COMPRESSOR IN PLACE, YOU CAN SEE THAT IT'S REALLY TIGHT, BUT WE DO HAVE ABOUT FIVESIXTEENTHS OF AN INCH GAP. SO WE'RE IN GOOD SHAPE CLEARANCE WISE, AND WE'VE

STILL GOT ACCESS TO THE THROUGH BOLT. SO WE'RE DOING GOOD. NOW THE POLYURETHANE BUSHINGS THAT WE USED

IN OUR ENGINE MOUNTS ARE ACTUALLY LEAF SPRING BUSHINGS. AND THEY'RE DESIGNED TO ACCEPT KINDA BIG HEAVY AND EXPENSIVE FIVEEIGHTHS HARDWARE. AND WHILE A COUPLE OF FIVEEIGHTHS BOLTS WON'T

BREAK THE BANK, IT'S JUST NOT NEEDED. SO WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO IS REDUCE THE INSIDE DIAMETER OF THE BUSHING DOWN TO A HALF AN INCH BY USING THESE OLD UNUSED SHOCK SLEEVES. THAT WAY IT'LL ACCEPT THE MORE THAN ADEQUATE HALF INCH BOLT. NOW IT DOESN'T TAKE A TON OF FORCE TO PRESS THESE SLEEVES INTO POSITION USING OUR MANUAL DAKE ARBOR PRESS. IF YOU DON'T HAVE ONE, A BENCH VICE AND A HAMMER WILL GET YOU TO THE SAME SPOT.

COOL!

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. WELL OUR ENGINE MOUNTS ARE JUST ABOUT DONE. THE HALF THAT GETS BOLTED TO THE BLOCK IS COMPLETE. NOW THE HALF THAT GETS WELDED TO THE FRAME

IS JUST ABOUT DONE. ALL I'VE GOT TO DO IS ASSEMBLE EVERYTHING, GET IT ALL MOCKED UP, AND I CAN FINISH PLATING IT ACROSS THE TOP.

THEN WE CAN DO THE FINAL WELDING ON ALL THE MOUNTS AND MAKE A PERMANENT HOME FOR OUR VSIX FIVE SPEED DRIVETRAIN COMBO. NOW TO KEEP THE EARS OF THE FRAME PLATES FROM BEING TOO TIGHT AGAINST THE ENGINE MOUNT, I'M USING THIS THIN TEMPLATE CARDBOARD JUST TO GIVE ME A LITTLE BIT OF WIGGLE ROOM. THAT WAY WE WON'T HAVE TO PRY THE EARS OPEN TO THE ENGINE MOUNTED INTO POSITION. NOW FOR THE TOP PLATE, AGAIN I'M MAKING A SIMPLE TEMPLATE USING SOME CARDBOARD. TRANSFER IT OVER TO METAL, CUT IT OUT, CLEAN IT UP, WE'LL BE READY TO WELD IT INTO POSITION.

NOW THE SHEET METAL I'M USING IS ABOUT A SIXTEENTH OF AN INCH THICK. NOT TOO TERRIBLY THICK, BUT ENOUGH TO ADD SOME STRENGTH TO THE MOUNT. I'LL CUT THIS OUT.

AFTER TACK WELDING THE PLATE IN PLACE, YOU CAN REMOVE IT AND FUSION WELD IT ON A BENCH TOP.

WELD THOSE TO THE FRAME AND WE'LL BE IN GOOD SHAPE. AS YOU GUYS KNOW, WITH TIG WELDING, CLEANLINESS IS KEY. SO I'M USING A SCUFF PAD SOAKED IN SOME ACETONE TO PREP THE SURFACE THOROUGHLY.

YOU NEED TO STAY AWAY FROM THE CHLORINATED CLEANERS. THEY CAN LEAVE BEHIND A RESIDUE THAT ONCE HEATED UP CAN CREATE POISONOUS GAS.

NOW HERE'S YOUR LAST OPPORTUNITY TO MAKE SURE THAT THE ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION ARE EXACTLY WHERE YOU WANT THEM BEFORE YOU COMMIT TO FINAL WELDING. YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ALL THE CLEARANCE YOU NEED BEFORE FULLY BURNING IN THESE MOUNTS.

AFTER A COUPLE OF TACK WELDS TO LOCK THE FRAME MOUNTS INTO POSITION, WE CAN GO AHEAD AND REMOVE THE A/C COMPRESSOR, THE THROUGH BOLT, AND THE DRIVETRAIN TO CREATE A LITTLE BIT MORE ROOM FOR WELDING.

AGAIN I'M USING A SIXTEENTH INCH TUNGSTEN AND A SIXTEENTH INCH FILLER ROD.

AND NOTICE WHEN I START THE NEXT WELD THAT A FEW SPARKS SPIT OUT. THOSE ARE A RESULT OF IMPURITIES IN THE METAL OR ON THE SURFACE. IT GOES TO SHOW YOU HOW IMPORTANT CLEANLINESS IS WHEN TIG WELDING. NOT GOING ANYWHERE NOW. AND WITH THE ENGINE MOUNTS WELDED UP I CAN GO AHEAD AND WELD UP THE ADJUSTABLE CROSS MEMBER ON OUR JW

ROD AND GARAGE FRAME. I SIMPLY SLID IT DOWN THE RAILS TO MATCH UP THE LENGTH OF OUR MANUAL TRANSMISSION. THEN WELDED IT UP. ANOTHER ADVANTAGE TO TIG WELDING IS YOU DON'T GET THAT SHOWER OF SPARKS THAT CAN HAPPEN WHEN DOING OVERHEAD MIG WELDING.

THAT FINISHES THAT SIDE.

INTO THE HARNESS THAT'S ALREADY ON THE ENGINE. AND AS FOR...

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, WE'LL TAKE A LOOK AT THE

HARDWARE WE'LL BE USING TO CONTROL OUR ECOBOOST ENGINE, STICK AROUND!

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. NOW WITH OUR ENGINE MOUNTS AND TRANSMISSION CROSS MEMBER FULLY WELDED IN, WE NOW HAVE A PERMANENT HOME FOR OUR ECOBOOST VSIX AND OUR FIVE SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION. AND WITH THAT DONE, WELL THE NEXT QUESTION IS HOW ARE WE GOING TO GET THIS THING TO RUN IN ANYTHING OTHER THAN THE F-150 IT WAS DESIGNED TO GO DOWN INTO.

NOW FOR THE LAST COUPLE OF YEARS I'VE HEARD RUMORS

THAT FORD RACING WAS GONNA BE COMING OUT WITH A CONTROL PACK FOR THIS THING, SIMILAR TO THE CONTROL PACKS THEY'VE GOT FOR THE FOURSIX AND FIVE LITER COYOTE VEIGHTS. WELL IN THE MEAN TIME I'VE BEEN WONDERING, IS THE

AFTERMARKET GONNA COME UP WITH A STAND ALONE CONTROLLER AND WIRING HARNESS FOR THIS HIGH TECH VSIX. WELL FOR YOU GUYS THAT ARE INTERESTED IN DOING THE THREEFIVE ECOBOOST SWAP, THE WAIT IS OVER BECAUSE FORD RACING HAS JUST SENT US A PREPRODUCTION THREEFIVE ECOBOOST CONTROL PACK THAT'S

ALREADY BEEN RUN AND TESTED ON AN ENGINE RUN STAND AT FORD. NOW THIS WIRING HARNESS WILL PLUG RIGHT INTO THE

HARNESS THAT'S ALREADY ON THE ENGINE, AND THAT'S WHERE THE BULK OF THE CONNECTIONS ARE GOING TO BE MADE ALONG WITH A FEW CHASSIS GROUNDS. ALSO INCLUDES A PCM, A POWER DISTRIBUTION BOX WITH RELAYS AND FUSES, AND THE REST OF THE HARNESS PASSES THROUGH THE FIREWALL FOR A HAND FULL OF CONNECTIONS LIKE A/C REQUEST, STARTER REQUEST, A CLEAN TACH SIGNAL, DRIVE BY WIRE THROTTLE SENSOR, AND AN OBD TWO PORT. SO IF YOU GUYS WANT TO GET ON THE ECOBOOST SWAP BAND WAGON, GONNA NEED A CONTROL PACK. HEY GUYS, IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR A BUDGET CONSCIOUS WAY TO LOWER THE BACK END OF YOUR PICK UP

TRUCK, WELL THERE'S REALLY NO BETTER OPTION THAN THIS LOWERING BLOCK KIT THAT WE PICKED UP FROM SUMMIT RACING. THESE METAL BLOCKS SIMPLY GO IN BETWEEN THE LEAF SPRING AND THE LEAF SPRING MOUNTING PERCH ON THE AXLE, SPACING THE SPRING DOWN AWAY FROM THE AXLE THE THICKNESS OF THE BLOCK. IN THIS CASE IT'S TWO INCHES, AND IT DOES IT WITHOUT EFFECTING RIDE QUALITY. THE KIT ALSO INCLUDES THE UBOLTS SO YOU CAN GET THE JOB DONE WITHOUT ANY HASSLE. NOW SUMMIT ALSO OFFERS FRONT LOWERING KITS TO MATCH, AND THEY COVER A MULTITUDE OF APPLICATIONS. NOW IF YOU'RE LOOKING TO GIVE YOUR VEHICLE A TUNE UP WITH ONE SIMPLE PART NUMBER, CHECK OUT THE TRUCK SUPER TUNE UP KITS FROM ACCEL. NOW THIS KIT IS FOR A 1990 TO '95 BIG BLOCK CHEVY TRUCK, AND IT INCLUDES A NEW DISTRIBUTOR CAP, ROTOR, EIGHT HIGH PERFORMANCE COPPER CORE SPARK PLUGS, AND A SET OF EXTREME 9,000 PLUG WIRES. NOW THESE PLUG WIRES ARE ALREADY THE CORRECT LENGTH, SO INSTALLATION SHOULD BE STRAIGHT FORWARD AND THE CERAMIC ENDS CAN ELIMINATE THE BURNING OF SPARK PLUG BOOTS. SO IF YOU'RE CHASING A MISFIRE, HESITATION, OR

POOR THROTTLE RESPONSE, YOU CAN REPLACE THE MAJORITY OF YOUR IGNITION COMPONENTS WITH ONE CONVENIENT PART NUMBER. NOW WE'VE USED QUICK TIME BELL HOUSINGS BEFORE IN THE PAST, BUT NEVER IN A DIESEL APPLICATION. SO CHECK OUT THIS QUICK TIME BELL HOUSING TO GO BEHIND THE CUMMINS DIESEL AND IN FRONT OF THE NV 4,500 FIVE SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION. THESE BELL HOUSINGS ARE MADE FROM HIGH STRENGTH STEEL. THEY'RE SPUN FORMED AND WELDED UP, AND THEN MACHINED TO BE EXTREMELY STRONG AND ACCURATE. AND WHEN USED WITH THE ENGINE BLOCK PLATE AND THE PROVIDED QUALITY HARDWARE THEY'RE SFI CERTIFIED. SO IF YOU GUYS ARE COMPETING OR YOU JUST MAKE

A BUNCH OF HORSEPOWER AND TORQUE WITH YOUR DIESEL PICK UP, IT MAY BE TIME TO STEP UP TO A QUICK TIME BELL HOUSING. GUYS, THANKS FOR WATCHING TRUCK TECH, SEE YOU NEXT TIME.
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