More '71 C-10 Cheyenne Episodes

Trucks! Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

3M
Sealant, Window-Weld, Super Fast Urethane, 10.5 Fluid Oz., Each
Brothers Truck Parts
'67-'72 1 Piece Window Kit - Medium Tint
Bully Dog Technologies, LLC
Computer Programmer, Triple Dog GT Gas Tuner, Cadillac, Chevy, GMC, Dodge, Ford, Lincoln, Nissan, Each
Driven Racing Oil
Driven Racing Oil, born from Joe Gibbs Racing, is formulated specifically for all-out race and high performance engines
Dupli-Color
Dupli Color Wheel Matte Clear
Dupli-Color
Paint, Trim, Enamel, Flat, Black, 11 oz., Aerosol, Each
Loctite
Weatherstrip Adhesive, Black, 5 oz, Each
The Industrial Depot
Industrial Depot - Fasteners, Hardware, and Shop Supplies
Trail Gear Inc.
True Tacoma Width Front Axle Housing, Spring Perches, E-Locker, Left-Hand Drop
Yukon Gear & Axle
14 Plate Carbon Clutches for GM 8.2,TK2013-09

Episode Transcript

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY WE'RE BACK ON OUR 1971 C-10 AND SHOWING YOU HOW TO REPLACE OR REBUILD YOUR LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL. AND HOW TO CONVERT YOUR VINTAGE DOOR GLASS TO A MODERN ONE PIECE SYSTEM. IT'S ALL TODAY HERE ON TRUCKS.

(KEVIN)>> BETTER THAN NEW!

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO TRUCK.

TODAY WE'RE WORKING ON OUR SIX LITER LS POWERED 1971 CHEVY. WE'VE GOT A COUPLE OF COOL PROJECTS IN MIND. ONE OF THEM IS GOING TO APPLY TO THAT SPECIFIC BODY STYLE OF TRUCKS, THE '67 TO '72 C-10.

THE OTHER ONE APPLIES TO JUST ABOUT ANY TRUCK ON THE ROAD, INCLUDING THE ONE YOU DRIVE, AND THAT'S INSTALLING A NEW DIFFERENTIAL INTO AN AXLE HOUSING. AND BEFORE YOU START THINKING WHOA, WHOA, WHOA, RING AND PINION WORK, I DON'T MESS WITH THAT. ALL THE SPECIAL TOOLS, AND PROCEDURES, THE SETUP, WELL IT'S NOT THAT BIG OF A DEAL.

INSTALLING A NEW DIFFERENTIAL ONLY EFFECTS THE BACK LASH. YOU DON'T DISTURB THE PINION SETTING AT ALL.

SO YOU DON'T NEED ALL THE SPECIAL TOOLS. YOU JUST NEED TO TAKE YOUR TIME AND GET THE JOB DONE, AND IT'S A JOB YOU CAN DO IN THE DRIVEWAY IN A COUPLE OF HOURS. THEN YOU CAN BRAG TO YOUR BUDDIES THAT YOU INSTALLED A NEW LIMITED SLIP YOURSELF OVER THE WEEKEND. NOW WHEN WE PULLED THE AXLE OUT OF THE TRUCK, IT WAS COVERED IN ABOUT FIVE POUNDS WORTH OF DIRT AND GRIME YOU CAN SEE THERE ON THE FLOOR. IT WAS PRETTY NASTY BUT IT CLEANED UP REALLY NICE. WHAT WE USED TO DO THAT WAS JUST AN ANGLE GRINDER WITH A WIRE BRUSH ATTACHMENT, OLD SCHOOL WIRE BRUSH, AND A COUPLE OF SCRAPING TOOLS AND SOME DEGREASER. SPENT ABOUT TWO HOURS CLEANING THIS THING UP, AND WELL YOU SEE THE RESULTS, THIS THING TURNED OUT PRETTY NICE. WHAT WE'VE GOT TO DO IS GET THE GEAR OIL DRAINING SO WE CAN GET THIS DIFF IN HERE. OH, YUM! ALRIGHT, NOW WE WANTED TO SHOW YOU WHY WE'RE WORKING ON THIS AXLE, OR DIFFERENTIAL.

DURING THE TEST DRIVE WE COULD EASILY GET BOTH TIRES TO SPIN IN A STRAIGHT LINE DURING A BURNOUT, BUT ON A TIGHT TURN WHERE WE JUMP ON THE THROTTLE ONLY THE INSIDE TIRE WOULD LIGHT UP. THAT'S BECAUSE THE CLUTCH PACK AND THE STOCK DIFFERENTIAL IS WEAK. CHECK THIS OUT, I'VE GOT THE OTHER AXLE SHAFT LOCKED IN PLACE USING A PRY BAR. AND USING THIS LITTLE PRY BAR I CAN PRETTY EASILY OVERCOME THE FRICTION OF THE CLUTCH PLATES.

THAT'S BECAUSE THE AXLE IS WORN OUT AND CLUTCHES WEAR OUT OVER TIME. NOW ONE SPECIAL TOOL YOU WILL NEED IS A DIAL INDICATOR. BUT THE MONEY YOU SAVE ON DOING THIS JOB YOURSELF WILL MORE THAN PAY FOR THE COST OF THE TOOL. THAT'S WHERE IT NEEDS TO GO, BACK TO SIX THOUSANDTHS. NOW ONCE YOU HAVE YOUR BACKLASH MEASUREMENT CHECKED, WE'LL YOU CAN REMOVE THE CROSS PIN RETAINING BOLT AND THE CROSS PIN.

NOW I CAN GET THE AXLES OUT. ALRIGHT , FIRST THING TO DO, PUSH THIS AXLE SHIFT IN. THERE'S THE CCLIP WE'RE AFTER, PERFECT. NOW WE CAN REMOVE THE AXLE SHAFT. THEN AFTER REPEATING THE PROCEDURE ON THE OTHER SIDE YOU CAN REMOVE THE DIFF, BUT NOT BEFORE MARKING THE BEARING CAPS. THEY NEED TO GO BACK IN THE SAME EXACT WAY THEY CAME OFF. SOME SIMPLE MARKS WILL TAKE CARE OF THAT. ALRIGHT NOW WE CAN PULL THE CAPS. [ air ratchet spinning ]

(RYAN)>> NOW PAY ATTENTION TO HOW TIGHT THE DIFF FEELS WHEN YOU REMOVE IT FROM THE HOUSING. THE BEARINGS NEED A LITTLE BIT OF PRELOAD. NOW SOME CARRIERS HAVE TO BE PRIED OUT, SOME KIND OF FALL OUT, BUT IT'S A GOOD REFERENCE TO HAVE WHEN YOU GO TO REASSEMBLE THIS THING. THESE SHIMS ALSO NEED TO STAY ON THE CORRECT SIDE. NOW IF WE WERE INSTALLING THE NEW DIFFERENTIAL WHAT WE WOULD DO IS REMOVE THE RING GEAR, SWAP IT OVER TO THE

NEW DIFF, PRESS ON SOME NEW CARRIER BEARINGS, DROP IT BACK IN THE AXLE HOUSING, SETUP OUR BACK LASH, AND WE'D BE GOOD TO GO. BUT SINCE IT'S MUCH MORE COST EFFECTIVE FOR US TO REBUILD THIS DIFF, WELL THAT'S WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO. WE'RE GONNA REMOVE THE RING GEAR ANYWAY JUST TO MAKE IT EASIER TO WORK ON. THAT CAME OFF KIND OF EASY, COOL!

OH I THINK I FOUND PART OF OUR PROBLEM. THOSE AREN'T SUPPOSED TO BE LIKE THAT.

WOW, YEAH THESE, THAT'S WHAT THEY'RE

SUPPOSED TO LOOK LIKE. SO IT'S READILY APPARENT WE'VE GOT A PROBLEM.

(ROB)>> THANK YOU DOCTOR RYAN.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP WHERE WE'RE ABOUT HALF WAY THROUGH OUR WEAK LIMITED SLIP REBUILD ON OUR '71 C-10. I THINK WE FOUND WHY OUR LIMITED SLIP WASN'T THAT STRONG. ALRIGHT, AFTER DISASSEMBLY AND A QUICK INSPECTION, IT WAS REALLY OBVIOUS WHERE OUR PROBLEM LIES. IT'S THE BROKEN CLUTCH PLATES, AND I'M NOT EVEN SURE IF THESE ARE FACTORY PARTS OR AFTERMARKET REPLACEMENTS. I GUESS AT THIS POINT IT DOESN'T EVEN MATTER CAUSE WE'RE GONNA BE REPLACING THEM WITH THIS YUKON GEAR

AND AXLE CLUTCH PACK KIT THAT WE PICKED UP FROM RANDY'S RING AND PINION. NOW THIS IS A 14 PLATE CARBON CLUTCH UPGRADE. BUT BEFORE WE THROW THIS OLD STUFF AWAY, WE'RE GONNA

TAKE A QUICK MEASUREMENT. NOW THE ORIGINAL CLUTCH PACK INCLUDING THE SHIM IS POINT SIXTHREE FOUR, POINT SIXTHREEFIVE, COOL. NOW THE REPLACEMENT CLUTCH PACK INCLUDING TWO SHIMS GIVES US POINT SIXFIVETHREE INCHES, SO WE'RE A LITTLE HEAVY. LETS PULL ONE OF THE SHIMS. REMEASURE, POINT SIXTHREESIX, THAT'S A GOOD PLACE TO START. THEN IT'S TIME TO BUILD A CLUTCH PLATE SANDWICH STARTING WITH STEELS, THEN CLUTCHES, THEN STEELS. A LITTLE GEAR OIL WILL KEEP THINGS LUBRICATED. THEN INSTALL THE RETAINERS, WHICH KEEP THE STEELS FROM

SPINNING INSIDE THE DIFF CASE. THEN SIMPLY INSTALL IT INTO THE CARRIER.

AND WITH BOTH CLUTCH PACKS INSTALLED YOU CAN MOVE ON TO THE PINION GEARS.

AND WHEN YOU'RE ASSEMBLING THESE THINGS, MAKE SURE THAT THE PINION GEARS ARE LINED UP DIRECTLY ACROSS FROM ONE ANOTHER SO WHEN YOU ROTATE THEM 90 DEGREES, THEY LINE UP WITH THE HOLES IN THE CASE AND THE CROSS SHAFT WILL SLIDE RIGHT IN PLACE. THIS IS WHERE YOU WANT TO BE CAREFUL. JUST DON'T FORGET THE THRUST WASHERS THAT SIT BEHIND EACH PINION GEAR. THEN WITH EVERYTHING ALIGNED WE CAN INSTALL THE SPRINGS AND SPRING PLATES, WHICH CAN BE AN EIGHT HANDED JOB.

ONE TRICK WE LIKE TO USE IS TO ZIP TIE THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY TOGETHER, MAKING IT MUCH EASIER. THEN SIMPLY TAP IT INTO PLACE AND INSTALL THE CROSS SHAFT TEMPORARILY MAKING SURE IT CAN PASS THROUGH THE CASE WITHOUT OBSTRUCTION. THEN IT'S SIMPLY CUTTING ZIP TIES AND FISHING OUT THE REMAINDER USING A PAIR OF NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS. THIS WILL SAVE YOU SOME TIME. THAT IS A LOT EASIER THAN FIGHTING WITH IT. NOW WITH THE OLD CLUTCH PACKS WE WERE PRETTY EASILY ABLE TO OVERCOME THE FRICTION OF THE CLUTCH PLATES WITH THIS LITTLE PRY BAR. BUT NOW IT'S A LOT TOUGHER. NOW KEEP IN MIND THESE FRICTION PLATES WILL BREAK IN AFTER THEY GET A FEW MILES ON THEM, AND YOU CAN TUNE HOW AGGRESSIVE YOU WANT THE LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL ACTION BY PLAYING WITH THE THICKNESS OF THE SHIMS. THICKER SHIMS WILL MAKE IT MORE AGGRESSIVE, THINNER WILL LOOSEN IT UP. NOW IF YOU'RE INSTALLING A NEW LIMITED SLIP, HERE'S WHERE YOU WOULD PRESS ON A COUPLE OF NEW CARRIER BEARINGS AND GET READY TO SWAP THE ORIGINAL RING GEAR OVER.

NOW SOMETIMES YOU'VE GOT TO HEAT UP THE RING GEAR TO GET IT TO EXPAND, OR PUT THE CARRIER IN THE FREEZER TO GET IT TO CONTRACT SO THE RING GEAR CAN MATE FLUSH WITH THE CARRIER. YOU DON'T WANT TO USE THE BOLTS TO PULL THE GEAR INTO THE CARRIER. THAT CAN LEAK TO GEAR DISTORTION AND MESS UP YOUR RING AND PINION CONTACT PATTERN. NOW IT'S GOOD PRACTICE TO ALWAYS USE NEW RING GEAR BOLTS. THESE GET A LITTLE BIT OF LOCTITE AND THEN TORQUED TO BETWEEN 45 AND 50 FOOT POUNDS. THEN DROP THE CARRIER IN PLACE FOLLOWED BY THE SHIMS, MAKING SURE THEY'RE IN THE CORRECT LOCATION. FOLLOW THAT WITH THE BEARING CAPS, WHICH WE MARKED EARLIER. AFTER SNUGGING THEM DOWN, WE TORQUED THEM TO 60 FOOT POUNDS, WHICH IS THE SPEC. NOW WE CAN CHECK BACK LASH. AND THE LAST STEP IS MEASURING YOUR BACK LASH ONCE AGAIN.

NOW SINCE WE DIDN'T SWAP OUT THE DIFF, ALL WE HAD TO DO IS MATCH UP OUR ORIGINAL BACK LASH MEASUREMENT OF SIX THOUSANDTHS. BUT IF YOU DID SWAP OUT THE DIFF OR CHANGE BEARINGS AND YOUR BACK LASH MEASUREMENT IS NOT WITHIN THE SPEC OF SIX TO 10 THOUSANDTHS, YOU JUST PICK UP A SHIM KIT AND YOU CAN INSTALL SHIMS IN BETWEEN THE BEARINGS THAT

MOVE THE RING GEAR EITHER CLOSER TO OR FARTHER AWAY FROM THE PINION GEAR AND THAT'S YOUR BACK LASH ADJUSTMENT.

ONCE THAT'S TAKEN CARE OF, WE CAN SLIDE THE AXLE SHAFT BACK IN, PUT THE COVER ON, FILL IT WITH GEAR OIL, AND CELEBRATE BY GOING OUTSIDE AND LAYING A COUPLE OF FRESH STRIPES ON THE PAVEMENT. BUT WE'RE NOT QUITE READY TO DO THAT WITH OUR REAR AXLE

CAUSE WE'VE GOT ANOTHER PROJECT IN MIND, LIKE SWAPPING OUT THOSE DRUM BRAKES.

(KEVIN)>> HEY WELCOME BACK. WELL THERE IS SOMETHING THAT HAS BUGGED ME ABOUT THIS TRUCK EVER SINCE WE GOT IT AND THAT'S THIS. THIS VENT WINDOW, WELL IT'S BROKEN AT THE PIVOT AND IT RATTLES AND LETS A LOT OF AIR IN. CHECK THIS OUT TOO. THE WEATHER SEAL, WELL IT'S DRY ROTTED AND BROKEN. SO WE'VE GOT TWO PROBLEMS RIGHT HERE THAT WE'RE GONNA SOLVE AT ONE TIME WITH THE HELP OF BROTHERS TRUCK PARTS, CHECK THIS OUT. WE'RE GONNA GIVE THIS TRUCK A CLEAN MODERN UPGRADED LOOK WITH A ONE PIECE GLASS CONVERSION KIT. NOW YOU'VE ALREADY SEEN THE GLASS, AND WE ORDERED OURS SMOKED SO WE WON'T EVER HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT WINDOW TINT AGAIN. THE REST OF THE KIT, WELL THEY'RE PRECISION CUT PIECES THAT MODIFY YOUR ORIGINAL WINDOW CHANNEL AND SASH TO FIT THE NEW KIT. IT COMES WITH THE WEATHER SEALS THAT YOU NEED, SO YOU DON'T HAVE TO ORDER ANYTHING ELSE OUT OF A CATALOG. IT'S GOT MOISTURE SEALS AND ANTIRATTLE STRIPS FOR BOTH DOORS AS WELL AS ANOTHER SECTION OF CHANNEL RUN TO GUIDE YOUR GLASS UP AND DOWN ON THE NEW SYSTEM. AND IT'S REALLY A LOT EASIER THAN YOU THINK. THE FIRST STEP IS TO GET THE VENT WINDOW ASSEMBLY OUT OF THE DOOR SHELL.

THE REAR CHANNEL COMES OUT NEXT, WHICH ALLOWS YOU TO REMOVE THE WINDOW AND TAKE IT OUT EASIER. THAT GOES AWAY. WITH THE GLASS PARTIALLY REMOVED FROM THE REGULATOR, GENTLY ROLL IT UP AND IT COMES OUT QUITE EASILY.

THERE WE GO! A LITTLE BIT OF HEAT HELPS RELEASE THE WINDOW FROM THE

SASH AND A LITTLE BIT OF PERSUASION FROM A CHISEL DOESN'T HURT EITHER. THE SASH GETS THE RUST SAND BLASTED OFF AND A FAT COAT OF BLACK DUPLICOLOR PAINT TO PROTECT IT, HECK YEAH. THE SASH NEEDS TO BE LENGTHENED TO ACCOMMODATE THE LONGER GLASS, AND THAT'S WHAT THIS SPACER IS FOR. IT'S DESIGNED TO FIT WITHIN THIS CHANNEL BUT IT NEEDS TO BE SPLIT. IT DOESN'T HAVE TO BE A PRECISE CUT, BUT MAKE

IT RIGHT ABOUT THE MIDDLE AND CUT IT. THE SPACER IS DESIGNED TO FIT WITHIN THE STAMPED EDGES OF THE SASH. AND WITH IT SPLIT IT ADDS ABOUT AN INCH TO LENGTH, AND ALLOWS THE GLASS TO RUN UP AND DOWN THE NEW LOCATION OF THE REAR CHANNEL. THE SPACER'S HELD IN PLACE WITH PROVIDED HARDWARE. SO THE HOLES ARE CLEARLY MARKED, DRILLED OUT, TO A MAXIMUM SIZE OF A QUARTER OF AN INCH. I FIND IT'S EASIER TO USE A PILOT HOLE OF ONEEIGHTH OF AN INCH FOLLOWED BY A STEP DRILL WITH A QUARTER INCH INCREMENT MARKED. THE HARDWARE IS FLUSH MOUNT WITH NYLON NUTS ON THE BACK SIDE THAT WON'T EVER LOOSEN. NOW YOU NEED TO CUT OUT THE DIVIDER BETWEEN THE VENT GLASS AND THE REGULAR WINDOW CHANNEL, AND JUST MAKE SURE THAT YOU DEBURR IT WITH SOME SAND PAPER BEFORE

SLIDING YOUR GLASS IN.

THE REAR CHANNEL GETS MODIFIED BY REMOVING ONE OF THE MOUNTING BRACKETS, AND YOU CAN DO THIS BY DRILLING THE RIBBON HEADS OFF, AND IT COMES OFF QUITE EASILY. THE LOWER MOUNTING LOCATION HAS CHANGED WITH SOME OF THE PARTS THAT COME IN THE BROTHERS KIT.

IT'S BASICALLY A SPACER THAT LENGTHENS THE SCREW LOCATION

ALONG WITH A FLUSH FIT SPACER TO MAKE SURE IT DOESN'T GET STRESSED WHEN BOLTED INTO THE DOOR. FROM THERE THE TOP OF THE CHANNEL GETS TRIMMED TO 19 AND A HALF INCHES AND PLACED BACK INSIDE THE DOOR. IT GETS BOLTED INTO THE BOTTOM WITH PROVIDED HARDWARE AND JUST LAYS AGAINST THE LATCH AT THE TOP. THE VENT GLASS GETS DISASSEMBLED AND EVERYTHING

BUT THE CHANNEL RUN CAN GET SET OFF TO THE SIDE BECAUSE

IT WON'T BE REUSED. IT'S HELD TOGETHER BY RIVETS, WHICH ARE EASILY REMOVED BY GRINDING THE HEADS OFF IN THE CHANNEL. MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN ANY DEBRIS OUT OF THE CHANNEL ITSELF. A WIRE BRUSH IS A PRETTY GOOD TOOL FOR THIS. HERE'S WHERE THE RULE MEASURE TWICE AND CUT ONCE COMES IN CAUSE YOU ONLY HAVE ONE OF THESE. 27 AND A HALF INCHES THAT GETS TRIMMED TO FIT. MAKE SURE YOU DEBURR IT BECAUSE AFTER ALL IT IS GOING TO COME INTO CONTACT WITH GLASS. THE CORNER SPACER GETS LOOSELY SCREWED PLACE, AND THEN YOU GET TO DO A LITTLE BIT OF ART WORK ON THE DOOR FRAME. THIS ESTABLISHES A STARTING POINT FOR YOUR MEASUREMENTS. YOU NEED TO DRILL A QUARTER INCH HOLE ON THE INSIDE OF THE FRAME. THAT'S A HALF AN INCH UP AND THREE QUARTERS

OF AN INCH INWARD. USING LOCTITE WEATHER STRIP ADHESIVE YOU'RE PUTTING THE PROVIDED CHANNEL RUN INTO THE FRONT CHANNEL. NOW IT'S KIND OF HELD IN PLACE WITH FRICTION, BUT THE ADHESIVE WILL HOLD IT IN PERMANENTLY. THEN ITS SLID DOWN INTO THE DOOR FRAME ITSELF AND THE QUARTER INCH HOLE, WELL IT BECOMES VERY CLEAR WHY YOU PUT IT IN THERE. A HEX HEAD BOLT GOES THROUGH THE DOOR FRAME INTO AN EXISTING HOLE IN THE CHANNEL RUN AND GETS SNUG DOWN. AND NOW WE'RE READY FOR THE GLASS TO GO IN.

(KEVIN)>> HEY WELCOME BACK TO TRUCKS AND THE INSTALLATION OF OUR ONE PIECE GLASS KIT ON THE '71 CHEYENNE PICK UP. THE GREAT THING ABOUT THIS BROTHERS KIT IS THAT EVERYTHING YOU NEED COMES WITH IT, INCLUDING ALL THE WEATHER STRIP. NOW THIS NORMALLY GETS GLUED IN, BUT SINCE WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO REPAINT THESE DOORS WE'RE JUST SETTING IN PLACE FOR NOW. THE SASH GETS INSTALLED ONTO THE ROLLERS AND THE GLASS GETS GENTLY SLID IN MAKING SURE THAT YOU DON'T SCRATCH THE SIDES AS IT SITS IN THE CHANNEL AT THE BOTTOM. WITH A LITTLE BIT OF PRESSURE FROM THE TOP YOU

CAN GUIDE THE GLASS DOWN TO WHERE YOU CAN SEE IN THE WINDOW WHERE YOU NEED TO MAKE SOME MARKS. YOU'RE MARKING BOTH THE SASH AND THE GLASS. THESE ARE ALIGNMENT MARKS THAT YOU'RE GONNA NEED A LITTLE BIT LATER ON. AGAIN BE VERY CAREFUL PULLING THE GLASS OUT

SO YOU DON'T SCRATCH IT.

THE SASH COMES OUT AS WELL. FOR OUR SASH WE'RE USING A FAST SET WINDSHIELD URETHANE INSTEAD OF THE PROVIDED GASKET SINCE OURS IS SO RUSTY.

THEN THE SASH GOES DOWN INTO THE DOOR FOLLOWED BY THE GLASS, AND HERE'S WHERE YOUR ALIGNMENT MARKS COME IN HANDY. YOU JUST RELINE YOUR MARKS AND ROLL THE GLASS ALL THE WAY UP TO THE CLOSED POSITION.

ALRIGHT, NOW THAT IS GOING TO SEAT AND LOCK THE URETHANE INTO PLACE BETTER THAN NEW. A POPULAR LOOK ON WHEELS TODAY IS A MATTE FINISH OR A SEMI GLOSS. AN EASY WAY TO GET THAT LOOK IS WITH DUPLICOLOR'S NEW WHEEL MATTE CLEAR COAT.

NOW I DID A QUICK SPRAY OUT ON THIS POLISHED ALUMINUM PIECE AND YOU CAN SEE WHAT KIND OF LOOK IT GIVES.

IT'S A BEAUTIFUL MUTED SHINE, AND IT'S DURABLE, EASY TO APPLY, WITH MINIMAL PREP. NOW UPGRADING YOUR WHEELS TO A MODERN LOOK, WELL IT'S SELF EXPLANATORY BUT THINK ABOUT IT LIKE THIS.

UNDER HOOD, INTERIOR STYLING, RESTORATION WORK, THERE'S SEVERAL DIFFERENT LEVELS OF GLOSS IN A QUALITY CONCOURSE RESTORATION. SO DON'T LET THE NAME FOOL YOU, WHEEL MATTE CLEAR COAT CAN BE USED ALL OVER YOUR CAR. IF YOU'RE DRIVING A STREET CAR, WELL YOUR TYPICAL OFF THE SHELF OIL WILL WORK JUST FINE. BUT IF YOU'VE GOT A RACE APPLICATION YOU NEED TO RACE SPECIFIC LUBRICANTS, AND DRIVEN RACING OIL FITS THE BILL. DRIVEN RACING OIL, BORN FROM JOE GIBBS RACING, DELIVERS HIGH CONCENTRATIONS OF ZINC, PHOSPHOROUS, AND SULFUR, THAT WON'T LET YOU DOWN UNDER HIGH RPM OR EXTREME HEAT SITUATIONS. THEY OFFER SEVERAL DIFFERENT PRODUCTS INCLUDING A HIGH PERFORMANCE BREAK IN OIL, A SYNTHETIC GEAR LUBE, EVEN AN AIR COOLED ENGINE OIL FOR WHATEVER YOUR DEMANDS ARE. DRIVEN RACING OIL IS NOW OWNED BY COMP PERFORMANCE, AND ALTHOUGH THE PACKAGING MAY CHANGE THE PRODUCT INSIDE IS STILL HIGH QUALITY RACING OIL THAT WILL PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT. BULLY DOG HAS STEPPED IT UP AGAIN, THIS TIME IN THE JEEP WORLD WITH THEIR NEW TRIPLE DOG GT TUNER SPECIFICALLY FOR JEEPS THAT MEETS THE NEEDS OF YOU LATE MODEL JEEP OWNERS HEAD ON. THE TRIPLE DOG DOES EVERYTHING THAT BULLY DOG IS KNOWN FOR, WHEEL AND TIRE RECALIBRATION, TUNING FOR

POWER, BUT DEPENDING ON YOUR JEEP MODEL THIS HAS SOME VERY SPECIFIC OPTIONS THAT CAN KEEP YOU OUT OF

TROUBLE ON THE TRAIL. IT GIVES YOU A WHOLE NEW SET OF PARAMETERS FOR OFF ROAD TUNING, CAN TIE INTO THE FACTORY TIRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM FOR AN EVEN AIR DOWN. IT CAN ADJUST THE IDLE UP IF YOU'RE DOING SOME LOW SPEED CRAWLING, EVEN ADJUST THE ENGINE COOLING FANS FOR LOW SPEED CRAWLING WHEN THERE'S NOT ANY AIR MOVEMENT ACROSS THAT MOTOR. TRIPLE DOG FOR JEEPS CAN DISABLE THE TRACTION CONTROL SO YOU CAN PUT POWER WHERE YOU WANT POWER. AND IF YOU'VE GOT A RUBICON MODEL YOU CAN REMOTELY DISABLE YOUR SWAY BAR END LINKS. SO FOR MORE INFORMATION ON BULLY DOGS GT TUNER FOR JEEPS OR ANYTHING ELSE YOU'VE SEEN ON TODAY'S SHOWS CHECK US OUT AT POWERBLOCK TV DOT COM. THANKS FOR WATCHING, SEE YOU NEXT TIME.
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