More Hurst Olds Episodes

MuscleCar Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

Wilwood Engineering
Residual Pressure Valve, Red Anodized, 10 psi, Drum Brakes, 1/8 in. NPT Female Inlet/Outlet, Each
Art Morrison Enterprises
GT-Sport Chassis For 1968-1972 Chevelle
Greening Auto Company
Custom manufactured billet wheels and automotive fabrication.
The Industrial Depot
Industrial Depot - Fasteners, Hardware, and Shop Supplies
TreadSource
Continental ContiCrossContact UHP 295/40ZR20
TreadSource
Continental ExtremeContact DW 285/30ZR19
YearOne
LH/RH inner wheelhouse panel pair for 1968-1972 models.

Episode Transcript

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY ON MUSCLE CAR, IT'S THE RETURN OF THE OLDSMOBILE. TOMMY AND MANK GET TO WORK PUTTING BABY TUBS IN THE BACK OF OUR '69 OLDS HURST TRIBUTE RESTO MOD. PLUS SEE A UNIQUE MOPAR PACKAGE AND THE DRIVER THAT TOOK IT TO THE WINNER'S CIRCLE. THEN FIND OUT WHAT'S THE BEST $20 BUCKS YOU MIGHT EVER SPEND ON YOUR BRAKES.

(TOMMY)>> AFTER A GOOD BIT OF BLOOD, SWEAT, AND POSSIBLY A FEW TEARS, BUT I DON'T WANT TO TALK ABOUT THOSE, OLE PROJECT BUSINESS TIME GOT TO HAVE HER DAY ON THE ROAD AND AT THE TRACK. BUT TODAY WE'RE GONNA LET OUR OLD MOPAR HANG OUT IN THE CORNER FOR A BIT SO THAT WE CAN MAKE SOME PROGRESS ON ONE OF OUR OTHER BUILDS, OUR '69 OLDSMOBILE. WE PICKED THIS CAR UP ON A RAINY DAY IN KENTUCKY, AND ONCE WE GOT IT HOME IT WAS A MATTER OF A QUICK TEAR DOWN. IT WASN'T LONG BEFORE WE HAD THE BODY OFF THE CHASSIS AND HAD IT SPEND THE DAY AT THE BLASTER.

THE CONCEPT OF THIS CAR IS A MODERN TRIBUTE TO THE CLASSIC HURST EDITION OLDSMOBILES, AND IT'S GOING TO BE A SERIOUS CAR STARTING WITH A SERIOUS FOUNDATION,

AN ART MORRISON CHASSIS. WITH THE BODY IN POWDER COAT PRIMER WE POPPED OUT A SET OF WOODEN MOCK UP WHEELS AND SAT THE BODY DOWN ON OUR NEW CHASSIS. A BIT OF TRANNY TUNNEL MODIFICATION PRECEDED THE NEW FLOOR PANS. FINALLY WE TOOK A TRIP TO GREENING AUTO AND WATCHED THEM CUSTOM MAKE A SET OF ONE OFF WHEELS WITH A DISTINCT OLDSMOBILE FLAVOR.

(STEVE)>> AND SPEAKING OF THOSE WHEELS, THIS IS WHAT THEY LOOK LIKE WITH A LITTLE BIT OF RUBBER ON THAT WE GOT FROM TREAD SOURCE DOT COM. THE FRONT ONES ARE 19 BY NINE AND THE REAR ONES ARE BIG 20 BY 12.

(TOMMY)>> NOW WHEN RUNNING A WHEEL AND TIRE COMBO THE SIZE THAT WE ARE, NOT UNCOMMON TO RUN INTO SOME CLEARANCE ISSUES. THAT'S THE REASON WHY WE DIDN'T GO AHEAD AND REPAIR THE RUST IN OUR INNER TUB. WE WANTED TO HAVE OUR WHEEL AND TIRE IN HAND, AND GIVE IT A TEST RUN JUST TO SEE EXACTLY WHERE WE'RE AT. LOOKS LIKE WE'VE GOT A CLEARANCE ISSUE.

THE CORNER OF THE TIRE IS ACTUALLY HITTING THE WHEEL WELL AND WE'RE NOT EVEN AGAINST THE AXLE FLANGE YET.

(STEVE)>> WE'LL START OFF BY MARKING THE LINE ON THE INNER WHEEL WELL THAT RUNS PARALLEL TO THE CHASSIS SINCE WE WANT TO GET AS TIGHT TO THE FRAME RAIL AS POSSIBLE. THIS WILL MAXIMIZE THE ROOM FOR THOSE BIG TIRES. THE LINING OF THE TOP OF THE WHEEL WELL IS WHERE WE'RE GOING TO ACTUALLY BE GAINING ROOM. THE NEW TUBS WE'LL SHOW YOU IN A LITTLE WHILE WILL REMAIN IN STOCK SIZE. BUT INSTEAD OF WELDING THEM WHERE THE EXISTING JOINT IS, WE'RE GOING TO JOIN THEM A COUPLE OF INCHES FARTHER TOWARDS THE FRAME RAILS, WHICH WILL BUY US MORE ROOM.

A BODY SAW IS GOOD FOR MAKING A LOT OF THE CUTS WE HAVE TO DO, BUT IN SOME SPOTS THERE'S MORE STEEL STRUCTURE BEHIND THIS WALL. SO WE'LL USE A CUTTING WHEEL TO LET ME MAKE A SHALLOW CUT. ONCE THAT'S LINED OUT, I'LL JUMP BACK TO THE BODY SAW AND CONTINUE ON. YOU CAN LOCATE THE INNER STRUCTURE THAT I WAS TALKING ABOUT BECAUSE YOU'LL BE ABLE TO SEE THE SPOT WELDS ON THE METAL.

WE GOT LUCKY RIGHT OUT OF THE BOX, THE FIRST SAW WAS GOOD ENOUGH TO GET THE TIRE IN TO GET IT TO FIT INSIDE THE CHASSIS BUT I'M WORRIED A LITTLE BIT ABOUT THIS EDGE FOR SUSPENSION TRAVEL. SO JUST TO BE SAFE WE'RE GONNA TRIM IT BACK A LITTLE BIT MORE AND GET WHAT WE NEED TO MAKE THE NEW INNER WHEEL WELL.

THAT SHOULD DO US. WELL WE'VE CUT AWAY THE INNER HALF OF THE WHEEL WELL JUST

TO GET WHAT WE NEEDED TO CLEARANCE THE BIG WHEELS AND TIRES AND GET THEM INSIDE THE STOCK WHEEL WELL. SO AS SOON AS WE GET DONE WITH THE OTHER SIDE AND GET IT ALL CUT AWAY, WE'LL BE ABLE TO PUT IT ON THE GROUND AND CHECK OUT WHAT THE FOOT PRINT OF THIS THING LOOKS LIKE FROM THE BACK.

(ANNOUNCER)>> NEXT UP LEARN HOW TO DO ROSETTE WELDS FOR A PRO TUB INSTALL. AND THEN SEE HOW $20 BUCKS CAN DO WONDERS TO IMPROVE YOUR STOPPING POWER.

(TOMMY)>> MANK'S GOT OUR FACTORY WHEEL TUBS WHITTLED OUT OF OUR OLDSMOBILE TRYING TO MAKE ROOM FOR THOSE BIG WHEELS AND TIRES WE'RE PUTTING UP UNDERNEATH IT.

SO WITH THAT SAID, IT'S TIME TO START PUTTING SOME METAL BACK IN. THERE'S A REALLY GOOD REASON THAT MANK LEFT THE STOCK LIP

ON THE INSIDE OF THE WHEEL WELL. IT'S GONNA WORK AS OUR ATTACHMENT POINT AND WIDEN OUT THE TUB ALL AT THE SAME TIME. NOW YOU'VE GOT A COUPLE OF CHOICES. SOME GUYS OPT TO FABRICATE A SET OUT OF JUST PLAIN

OLE FLAT SHEET METAL. AND THERE'S NOTHING WRONG WITH THAT, BUT THAT USUALLY INVOLVES QUITE A BIT OF FAB TIME. IN OUR CASE THERE'S NO REAL REASON TO REINVENT THE WHEEL IF YOU KNOW WHAT I'M SAYING. ANOTHER ROUTE IS TO GET A SET OF STOCK STYLE PRESTAMPED TUBS LIKE THESE WE GOT FROM YEAR ONE. NOW IF YOU'RE DOING A FACTORY RESTORATION AND YOU'VE GOT A BIT OF RUST IN YOUR TUBS, THESE WORK PERFECT FOR THAT. OR IN OUR CASE, WITH A LITTLE BIT OF MODIFICATION, THESE THINGS CAN SAVE US A BOAT LOAD OF TIME.

(STEVE)>> WHAT WE'LL DO IS USE THE FACTORY SEAM WE WERE TALKING ABOUT TO ANCHOR THE NEW WHEEL WELLS UP HERE. WE'LL USE THIS SEAM, WHICH WILL GIVE US ANOTHER TWO

INCHES OR SO OF ROOM, WHICH WILL BE GREAT FOR OUR SUSPENSION TRAVEL AS WELL AS THE NEW WIDER WHEELS AND TIRES.

(TOMMY)>> HERE YOU GO, GOT YOU A NEW ONE.

(STEVE)>> GUESS I'LL GET STARTED. WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO NEXT IS WE'RE GONNA REMOVE THE VERTICAL SEAM HERE BECAUSE WE LEFT THE OUTER HALF OF THE WHEEL WELL IN THE CAR AND WE'RE GONNA SHAVE IT ALL THE WAY AROUND SO THAT WE CAN GET AN OVERLAP BETWEEN THE NEW HALF AND THE OLD HALF.

AFTER A TEST FIT, I FOUND I WAS A BIT CONSERVATIVE ON MY INITIAL CUT, WHICH IS FINE BECAUSE IT'S BETTER TO NOT

CUT ENOUGH THAN IT IS TO CUT TOO MUCH. I JUST NEED TO WHITTLE A BIT MORE FROM BEHIND THE SEAT PANEL. IT LOOKS LIKE THAT WAS ALL THAT HAD TO BE CUT AWAY FOR THE MOMENT. WITH THE TUB SITTING WHERE WE WANT IT, I'LL PLUG THE WHEEL BACK IN AND CHECK TO SEE HOW WE'RE DOING ON CLEARANCE. THAT'S ACTUALLY PRETTY CLOSE FOR SOME MINIMAL CUTTING. I THINK ALL WE'LL HAVE TO DO IS DOLLY IT A LITTLE BIT IN THE BACK TO GET SOME CLEARANCE FOR THE BACK CORNER OF THE TIRE, WHICH WE KIND OF EXPECTED.

BUT OTHER THAN THAT, IT FITS UP IN THERE PRETTY WELL.

WELL WE ONLY HAVE ONE SMALL AREA THAT'S GOING TO BE A LITTLE BIT OF PROBLEM WHERE THE TIRE'S JUST TOUCHING THE BOTTOM OF THE NEW INNER WHEEL WELL. SO I'LL DISCONNECT THE VICE GRIPS AND PUSH IT BACK AWAY FROM THE TIRE AND LET IT MOVE, AND HOPEFULLY IT WILL STAY. AND YES IT DOES, SO I JUST HAVE TO MOVE IT RATHER THAN TRIM IT, AND WE SHOULD BE GOOD TO GO. YOU CAN SEE FROM WHERE THE ORIGINAL SEAM IS AND WHERE THE NEW ONE WILL BE JUST HOW MUCH SPACE WE'VE GAINED. IT MAY NOT SEEM LIKE A LOT, BUT WHEN IT COMES TO OVERSIZE

WHEELS AND TIRES UNDER A CAR, YOU NEED EVERY INCH YOU CAN GET. A FEW CLICOS AND SHE'LL SIT TIGHT WHILE TOMMY SHOWS YOU HOW WE'LL WELD THEM UP.

(TOMMY)>> WITH THE CLICOS HOLDING THE TUBS IN PLACE, IT'S TIME TO BURN THEM IN. THE WAY WE PLAN ON DOING THAT IS WITH SOME PLUG WELDS. AND THEY'RE ALSO KNOWN AS ROSETTE WELDS. NOW THIS TYPE OF WELDING IS USED A LOT BY AUTO BODY

REBUILDERS BECAUSE IT'S VERY SIMILAR TO THE WAY THE OEM MANUFACTURERS PUT THE CAR TOGETHER.

(STEVE)>> WHEN THESE CARS ARE PUT TOGETHER AT THE FACTORY, THE MANUFACTURER HAVE SPOT WELDERS WHICH USE TWO ELECTRODES TO PINCH TOGETHER AND HEAT TWO PIECES THAT ARE FUSING. IN THE REPAIR INDUSTRY WHAT'S COMMONLY DONE IS TO DRILL A HOLE IN ONE OF THE TWO PIECES AND THEN USE A MIG WELDER TO PLACE A WELD THAT HOLDS TWO OF THEM TOGETHER. LETS TAKE A LOOK AT HOW THESE WELDS SHOULD

LOOK WHEN THEY'RE DONE. TOMMY WILL PLACE A COLD WELD, THEN ONE THAT'S A BIT TOO HOT, AND THEN ONE THAT'S A LOT TOO HOT, AND THEN ONE THAT'S JUST RIGHT. WHO IS TOMMY, GOLDILOCKS?

(TOMMY)>> THE FIRST ONE YOU CAN SEE WAS A LITTLE BIT COLD BECAUSE ITS ACTUALLY BALLING UP BEFORE IT BURNS IN. NOW THIS ONE YOU CAN TELL IT'S OBVIOUSLY WAY TOO HOT BECAUSE

IT ACTUALLY BURNED THROUGH THE BOTTOM LAYER. NOW AT FIRST GLANCE THESE TWO BOTH LOOK REALLY, REALLY NICE, BUT ONE OF THEM'S TELLING A STORY. NOW THIS ONE IS WHAT YOU'RE LOOKING FOR. THIS ONE THE HEAT WAS ACTUALLY TOO HIGH AND WAS JUST ABOUT TO BECOME ONE JUST LIKE THAT.

(STEVE)>> NOW IT'S SIMPLY A MATTER OF TAKING THAT TECHNIQUE AND APPLYING IT TO THE TUBS THEMSELVES. ONCE THE METAL IS MOVED INTO PLACE, WELDED, AND THE JOINT SEAM SEALED, WE'LL HAVE THE SAME TYPE OF WEATHERPROOF CONNECTION AS THE FACTORY WOULD HAVE HAD.

(ANNOUNCER)>> STILL AHEAD, YOU KNOW HOW SOME PEOPLE TALK ABOUT THAT CAR THEY NEVER SHOULD HAVE SOLD BACK IN THE DAY? WELL WHAT IF THAT CAR WAS WORTH A COUPLE HUNDRED THOUSAND CLAMS NOW!

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY'S FLASHBACK, A 1965 DODGE CORONET SUPER STOCK.

(TOMMY)>> THAT THANG GOT A HEMI?

(STEVE)>> YES IT DOES. THE YEAR WAS 1965. CHRYSLER OFFERED ITS INFAMOUS ENGINE TO THE PUBLIC FOR THE FIRST TIME. TO GET ONE THOUGH YOU HAD TO FORK OVER AN EXTRA $1,800 BUCKS AND SIGN AWAY YOUR WARRANTY.

(TOMMY)>> THAT'S BECAUSE THIS ENGINE WAS IN FULL RACE TUNE BUILT TO POWER DODGE'S FACTORY MODIFIED SUPER STOCK CORONET, A CAR DESIGNED WITH ONE THING IN MIND, TO WIN AT THE STRIP.

(STEVE)>> WELL THAT'S EXACTLY WHAT HARMON FRIEND WAS LOOKING FOR BACK IN 1965. HE WAS ONE OF THE LUCKY FEW TO GET HIS HANDS ON ONE.

(HARMON)>> SO MUCH POWER IN THIS THING IT FEELS LIKE YOU'RE GETTING SHOT OUT OF A CANNON.

(TOMMY)>> HE RACED HARM'S WAY ALL OVER THE MIDWEST, DRAWING

A LOT OF ATTENTION WITH HIS ROLLER SKATE WHEELIE BARS. HIS GOAL WAS TO BREAK A RECORD, AND HE PROMISED HIS WIFE HE'D SELL THE CAR AS SOON AS HE DID.

(STEVE)>> THE HEMI FOUND ITS WAY INTO THE CORONET WHEN NASCAR BANNED THE ENGINE AFTER DODGE USED IT TO COMPLETELY ANNIHILATE THE COMPETITION IN THE 1964 SEASON. CHRYSLER PACKED UP ITS THINGS AND POURED ALL ITS RESOURCES INTO DRAG RACING.

(TOMMY)>> THE CORONET WAS DODGE'S NEW MIDSIZE MODEL, AND A PERFECT FIT FOR A 426. ONLY 101 UNITS WERE BUILT TO MEET THE NHRA QUOTA. DODGE DID EVERYTHING THEY COULD TO LIGHTEN UP THE CAR WHILE STICKING TO THE NEW SUPER STOCK RULES.

(STEVE)>> THAT MEANT NO ALUMINUM BODIES OR PLEXIGLASS WINDOWS. DODGE HAD A FEW TRICKS UP ITS SLEEVE THOUGH TO GET AROUND THAT, LIKE ACID DIPPING THE FENDERS AND HOOD, AND USING THINNER GLASS FOR THE WINDOWS.

(TOMMY)>> EVEN THE RACE HEMI GOT THE WEIGHT LOSS TREATMENT WITH CAST ALUMINUM CYLINDER HEADS AND A MAGNESIUM INTAKE.

(STEVE)>> THEN THEY WENT TO WORK HITTING THE DELETE BUTTON.

INNER HEAD LIGHTS AND RIGHT HAND WIPER, DELETE! REAR SEAT, DELETE! RADIO AND HEATER, DELETE! VISORS, DOME LIGHT, COAT HOOK, DELETE! THEY EVEN GOT RID OF THE PARKING GEAR.

(TOMMY)>> YEAH, AND NOTICE THE FUNKY SHIFT PATTERN, REVERSE, NEUTRAL, FIRST, SECOND, DRIVE. THAT'S SO YOU COULD MANUALLY UP SHIFT TO DRIVE WITHOUT ACCIDENTALLY THROWING IT INTO REVERSE.

(STEVE)>> PLUS THE TRANNY HAD A HIGH STALL TORQUE CONVERTER TO FEED THAT RPM HUNGRY HEMI. THE SET UP WAS NICKNAMED "DIAL A WIN" BECAUSE IT WAS SO DANG DEPENDABLE AT THE TRACK.

DODGE DOMINATED THE STRIP THAT YEAR WITH BOB HARRETT'S CORONET WINNING THE NHRA NATIONALS.

(TOMMY)>> HARM RACED HIS CAR FOR FOUR YEARS UNTIL HE SET AN AHRA CLASS RECORD OF 119 MILES AN HOUR AT NORWALK DRAGWAY. HE KEPT HIS WORD AND SOLD THE CAR, NEVER THINKING HE'D SEE IT AGAIN, BUT HISTORY HAD SOMETHING ELSE IN STORE.

(HARMON)>> OVER A YEAR AGO I GOT A PHONE CALL. HE SAYS, YOU DON'T KNOW US, WE KNOW A LITTLE BIT ABOUT YOU. WE HAVE YOUR OLD RACE CAR.

AND I THOUGHT TO MYSELF, WHAT?

(STEVE)>> THE CAR HAD BEEN FOUND IN A BARN AND BOUGHT BY DANNY PROCTOR, WHO HAD IT RESTORED BY THE GUYS AT PRO CLASSICS.

(MATT)>> WE STARTED WITH A REALLY BIG BUCKET OF BOLTS AND JUST REALLY THINK WE TRANSFORMED IT INTO SOMETHING REALLY NICE AFTER A YEAR AND A HALF OF HARD WORK.

(TOMMY)>> MATT MADE SURE IT WAS RETURNED TO EXACT OE SPECS BEFORE HE SHOWED IT TO HARM.

(HARM)>> I HAD TEARS IN MY EYES. THE FIRST TIME I WALKED UP TO IT, I HAD TEARS IN MY EYES.

(STEVE)>> THE CAR THAT COST HIM ABOUT $4,400 BUCKS BRAND NEW! YEAH, WELL NOW THAT SUCKER'S WORTH ALMOST $200,000.

(HARM)>> SEE, I TOLD YOU, YOU SHOULDN'T HAVE SOLD THIS THING.

(ANNOUNCER)>> LOOKING FOR A GOOD BUY? COMING UP A $20 DOLLAR EASY MOD THAT'S WORTH WAY MORE THAN ITS WEIGHT IN GOLD.

(STEVE)>> HEY GUYS, THE LAST COUPLE OF CARS WE'VE WORKED ON IN THE SHOP HAVE BEEN FROM TOWARDS THE END OF THE MUSCLE CAR ERA. OUR OLDSMOBILE'S A 1969 AND THE DART A 1974. IT'S BEEN A WHILE SINCE WE'VE TALKED ABOUT ANYTHING FROM THE FRONT END OF THE MUSCLE CAR ERA, WHICH WE'RE GOING TO DO TODAY AND TOUCH THAT END OF AUTOMOTIVE HISTORY. WHAT WE'VE GOT TODAY IS ANOTHER ONE OF THOSE TECH TIPS THAT'S NOT REAL GLAMOROUS BUT DEFINITELY WORTH KNOWING IF YOU HAVE AN OLDER HOT ROD OR MUSCLE CAR THAT HAS A MASTER CYLINDER MOUNTED UNDER THE CHASSIS. WE'RE GONNA TALK ABOUT THE RESIDUAL PRESSURE VALVES THAT YOU CAN PUT IN LINE TO GIVE YOU A BETTER BRAKE PEDAL IF YOUR CAR'S SPENT SOME TIME SITTING. A LOT OF THE CARS THAT CAME FROM THE EARLY MUSCLE CAR ERA AND THE HOT ROD ERA HAD MASTER CYLINDERS THAT WERE LOCATED UNDERNEATH THE FLOOR BOARD AND CHASSIS OF THE CAR. AND FOR THOSE OF YOU THAT HAVE CHOSEN TO LEAVE THEM THERE INSTEAD OF MODIFYING THEM AND TAKING THEM UP TO THE FIREWALL, YOU'VE FOUND THAT YOU CAN RUN INTO ONE MAJOR PROBLEM THAT HAPPENS QUITE A BIT. WITH THE RESERVOIR AND THE MASTER CYLINDER BEING LOCATED UNDERNEATH THE FLOOR, THE FLUID LEVEL IN THAT, WHICH SUPPLIES THE WHEEL CYLINDERS, IS AT A LOWER ELEVATION THAN THE WHEEL CYLINDERS THEMSELVES THAT ACTUATE THE BRAKES. WHAT CAN HAPPEN IS IF THE CAR ENDS UP SITTING BECAUSE YOU DON'T USE IT AS A DAILY DRIVER, GRAVITY TAKES OVER AND THE FLUID TRIES TO GET OFF THE HIGH END OF THE WHEEL CYLINDER AND DRAIN BACK INTO THE MASTER CYLINDER, LEAVING AIR POCKETS IN THE BRAKE LINES. THAT'LL GIVE YOU A SPONGY PEDAL AND SOMETIMES EVEN NO PEDAL AT ALL. LUCKILY THERE'S A PIECE OF MODERN BRAKE TECHNOLOGY THAT WE CAN USE TO REMEDY THE PROBLEM WITHOUT DOING VERY MUCH MODIFICATION TO THE SYSTEM AT ALL. BASICALLY ALL THIS IS IS A DIRECTIONAL VALVE WITH A SPRING IN IT THAT WILL HOLD 10 POUNDS OF PRESSURE FOR A DRUM BRAKE SYSTEM, AND IT'S ALSO AVAILABLE IN A TWO POUND VERSION FOR DISC BRAKE SYSTEMS.

BASICALLY ALL YOU NEED TO DO IS THIS.

INTERSECT THE BRAKE LINE AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE TO THE MASTER CYLINDER AND INSERT THE VALVE THERE. IF YOUR MASTER CYLINDER HAS A SINGLE LINE COMING OUT OF IT,

YOU'LL ONLY NEED ONE LINE FOR THE WHOLE SYSTEM. BUT IF IT HAS TWO SEPARATE RESERVOIRS, YOU'LL HAVE TO PUT A VALVE ON EACH LINE. THE REASON WE WANT TO GET THE VALVE AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE TO THE MASTER CYLINDER IS WE WANT ABSOLUTELY EVERY INCH WE CAN GET OF THE BRAKE LINE TO BE UNDER PRESSURE BETWEEN THE MASTER CYLINDER AND THE WHEEL CYLINDER TO ELIMINATE ANY THREAT OF BLEED OFF WHAT SO EVER. THE REASON YOU DON'T WANT TO PUT THE VALVE, EVEN THOUGH IT MAY BE EASIER, UP HERE IN THIS MOUNTED LOCATION IS BECAUSE YOU WILL HAVE PRESSURE BETWEEN THE VALVE AND THE WHEEL CYLINDER, BUT IT WILL STILL BE LOOSE ON THE BACK SIDE, WHICH IS HIGHER THAN THE MASTER CYLINDER, GIVING YOU THE SAME PROBLEM BEHIND THE VALVE TO THE MASTER CYLINDER. AS FOR THE RESIDUAL PRESSURE VALVES THEMSELVES, THE REASON FOR THEIR RECENT POPULARITY IS A LOT OF GUYS ARE TAKING THE REAR AXLES, WHICH ARE DRUM BRAKE, AND CONVERTING THEM OVER TO DISC IN THEIR MUSCLE CARS. IT'S A VERY WORTHWHILE CONVERSION TO DO BECAUSE IT GIVES MUCH BETTER BRAKING ABILITY AND SHORTER STOPPING DISTANCES. I CAN VOUCH FOR THAT MYSELF BECAUSE I'VE DONE PROBABLY A DOZEN CONVERSIONS IN THE LAST YEAR AND EVERYBODY SEEMS TO BE HAPPY WITH THEM.

IF YOU MADE THIS CONVERSION, YOU WOULD STICK ONE OF THESE VALVES IN THE LINE GOING TO THE REAR BRAKES TO KEEP THE

PADS TIGHT AGAINST THE ROTORS. OTHERWISE THE OLD STYLE HARDWARE UP FRONT, YOU'D LOSE THIS PRESSURE AND THE PADS WOULD RATTLE ON YOU GOING DOWN THE ROAD. WELL GUYS, LIKE I PROMISED, IT WASN'T VERY GLAMOROUS. BUT IF YOU HAVE ONE OF THESE SYSTEMS ON AN OLDER MUSCLE CAR OR HOT ROD, IT'S WELL WORTH THE INVESTMENT. FOR ABOUT $20 BUCKS AND A LITTLE TIME, YOU CAN GET YOUR BRAKE SYSTEM INTO TOP NOTCH SHAPE.

IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT ANYTHING YOU SAW US DO ON THE SHOW TODAY, CHECK IT OUT OVER AT POWERBLOCK TV DOT COM. SEE YA!
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