MuscleCar Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

Art Morrison Enterprises
'67-Up Camaro, '64-Up Chevelle, LS Swap Headers
Art Morrison Enterprises
GT-Sport Chassis For 1968-1972 Chevelle
Dake
Technics Cold Saw - Manual
Magnaflow
Catalytic Converter, Stainless Steel, Each
Magnaflow
Exhaust System, Hot Rod Kit, Header-Back, Stainless Steel, Natural, 2.50 inch Diameter, Universal, Kit
Magnaflow
Muffler, Glasspack, Steel, Aluminized, 2.50 in. Inlet/Outlet, 26.0 in. Length, Eac
The Industrial Depot
The Industrial Depot - Fasteners, Hardware, and Shop Supplies
Visual Impact Performance Systems
TURBO TRAC serpentine drive system is precision CNC machined from 6061-T6 aluminum for GM aluminum and iron LS style blocks.

Episode Transcript

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY ON MUSCLE CAR, WE PUT THE RAD IN RADIATOR AS THE '69 OLDS CUTLASS RESTO MOD GETS A CORVETTE STYLE COOLING CORE. BUT THAT REQUIRES EVEN MORE MODS ON THIS CUSTOMED OUT CAR. SOME ONE OFF COOLANT TUBES BUILT FROM SCRATCH ROUND OFF THAT STUFF, BUT WE'LL ALSO SHOW YOU HOW THE RIGHT HEADERS CAN BE A SNAP TO INSTALL. CUSTOM FAB SOME STAINLESS EXHAUST AND MAKE A PURPOSE BUILT TOOL, ALONG WITH MODING A THERMOSTAT FOR EFFICIENCY.

(TOMMY)>> HEY GUYS, WE'VE BEEN CONCENTRATING PRETTY HOT AND HEAVY ON OUR OLDSMOBILE PROJECT, AND TODAY WE'RE GONNA CONTINUE TO DO SO. WE'RE GONNA DO SOME WORK UP UNDER THE HOOD, INSTALL A FEW COMPONENTS, DO SOME FABRICATING , CUTTING, AND WELDING, AND ALL THAT KIND OF JAZZ, YA'LL

STICK AROUND, CHECK IT OUT. IF YOU GUYS REMEMBER BACK WHENEVER WE WERE BUILDING OUR INNER FENDERS, WE WELDED ON THIS TEMPORARY BRACE TO HOLD OUR RADIATOR INTO PLACE. WELL TODAY WE'RE GONNA BE MAKING OUR FINAL MOUNT FOR OUR RADIATOR, BUT BEFORE WE GET TOO FAR AHEAD OF OURSELVES WE NEED TO INSTALL OUR FRONT ENGINE DRIVE ASSEMBLY TO MAKE SURE THAT THERE'S NO CLEARANCE ISSUES BETWEEN THE TWO. THE FRONT ASSEMBLY COMPONENTS THAT WE'RE GONNA BE USING ARE ALL PART OF A KIT FROM VIPS, VISUAL

IMPACT PERFORMANCE SYSTEMS. AND YOU CAN SEE THEY'RE GONNA RATCHET UP THE BLING FACTOR UNDER OUR HOOD A CONSIDERABLE AMOUNT. NOW LIKE WE TALK ABOUT HERE AT THE SHOP ALL THE TIME HOW IMPORTANT IT IS TO MOCK UP AND TEST FIT STUFF, THIS IS WHY. YOU CAN SEE THAT OUR A/C COMPRESSOR IS COMING INTO DIRECT CONTACT WITH OUR RADIATOR, WHICH KINDA IS A BIG PROBLEM. BUT CONVENIENTLY THIS LITTLE WOODEN DEVICE RIGHT IS GONNA SOLVE ALL OUR PROBLEMS.

SEE, PLENTY OF CLEARANCE NOW. WITH THE RADIATOR IN THE PERFECT SPOT WE'RE READY TO START BUILDING THE MOUNT. I'M GONNA USE THIS PIECE OF HEAVY ALUMINUM AND SOME STEEL TUBING. THIS ALUMINUM COVER IS GONNA FUNCTION MOSTLY AS A COSMETIC PIECE. IT'S THE STEEL PIECE UNDERNEATH THAT WILL HOLD THE RADIATOR IN PLACE. TO MAKE ROOM FOR THE FILLER NECK I'M GONNA WHITTLE OFF A ROUND SPOT DOWN HERE ON THE END. A PIECE OF TRIM TAPE WILL HELP ME STEP OUT THE MARK ABOUT AN EIGHTH OF AN INCH TO GIVE ME A LITTLE MORE ROOM. I'LL USE A CARBIDE BIT TO GET RID OF THE EXTRA METAL. ONE THING TO NOTE, THIS BIT IS DESIGNED FOR ALUMINUM AND HAS BIGGER TEETH ON IT. A BIT DESIGNED FOR STEEL WILL CLOG UP IF YOU CUT INTO ALUMINUM WITH IT. THEN I CAN USE A SOCKET TO MAKE THE MARKS WHERE I WANT TO ROUND OFF THE CORNER.

NOW WITH OUR TOP PLATE MADE WE'RE READY TO GO AHEAD AND START BUILDING THE DOWN LEGS IF YOU WILL THAT'S GONNA HOLD EVERYTHING WHERE IT NEEDS TO BE. THAT'S 19 AND THREE QUARTER! SINCE THE RADIATOR IS LEANING, I NEED TO PUT AN ANGLE CUT ON THE LEGS.

THE GOOD NEWS THAT OUR DAKE COLD SAW CAN FUNCTION LIKE A MITRE SAW AND CUT AT AN ANGLE. THESE LITTLE PIECES OF PLATE WILL ACT LIKE FEET FOR OUR LEGS. AND SINCE EVERYTHING FITS, I'LL GO AHEAD AND BURN THEM TOGETHER.

(MANK)>> WHILE TOMMY'S FINISHING UP THE VERTICALS FOR THE RADIATOR, WHAT I'M GONNA GO AHEAD AND DO IS MAKE THE TOP MOUNT, WHICH WILL GIVE US THE CORRECT ANGLE WE NEED FOR THE RADIATOR AS WELL AS THE DEPTH TO THE CORE SUPPORT. AND I'M GONNA KEEP IT SIMPLE. BASICALLY ALL I'M GONNA DO IS TAKE THIS PIECE OF STEEL, LAY IT IN THE CHANNEL ON TOP OF THE RADIATOR, AND THEN RUN TWO SEPARATE ARMS FROM THE TOP OF THE RADIATOR, THROUGH THE CORE SUPPORT, AND TACK THEM TOGETHER. THESE ARMS WILL ALSO SERVE AS PART OF THE SKELETON THAT WILL HOLD THE FINISHED SHEET METAL AND TOMMY'S UPRIGHTS TO KEEP THE RADIATOR IN PLACE VERTICALLY. I'LL TACK THE BACK TOGETHER WHILE IT'S STILL CLAMPED TO THE RADIATOR. BUT TO WELD IT ALL TOGETHER, I'LL HAVE TO TAKE IT OFF AND CLAMP IT TO OUR WELDING TABLE. I DON'T WANT TO DAMAGE THE RADIATOR BY GENERATING TOO MUCH HEAT RIGHT ON TOP OF IT.

(ANNOUNCER)>> STILL AHEAD WE'LL BUST OUT THE EXHAUST TUBE AND CONVERT IT INTO CUSTOM COOLING PASSAGES. THEN GET A HOLD OF MORE EXHAUST TUBE, BUT THIS STUFF IS GONNA ACTUALLY FUNCTION AS EXHAUST.

(MANK)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK. NOW THAT WE'VE GOT THE MAIN PIECES MADE TO SUPPORT OUR RADIATOR OFF THE CORE SUPPORT WE'RE GONNA GO AHEAD AND GET STARTED WITH PUTTING THEM IN. WE'LL HOOK THE MAIN CRADLE UP TO HERE LIKE WE DID EARLIER. AND THEN THE TWO VERTICALS THAT TOMMY MADE WILL GET BOLTED AT THE BOTTOM TO THE ORIGINAL CROSS MEMBER IN THE

CAR SO THEY CAN BE REMOVED WITH THE REST OF THE SKELETON HOLDING IN THE RADIATOR. AND ONCE WE THE VERTICALS POSITIONED UP HERE ON TOP AND GET THEM WELDED IN PLACE, WE'LL USE THEM AS BRACKETS TO HOLD SUCH THINGS AS THE A/C CONDENSER AND OUR ELECTRIC FANS. SO LETS GET TO IT.

WE'RE GONNA USE A COUPLE OF SMALL PLATES TO BOLT THE BRACKET TO THE RADIATOR SUPPORT. A FEW PLUG WELDS WILL MARRY THE PLATES TO SUPPORT ITSELF. THEN WE'LL TAKE THE BRACKET AND BEGIN PUNCHING THE HOLES IN IT, WHICH WILL BOLT EVERYTHING TOGETHER.

I'LL START WITH AN EIGHTH INCH DRILL BIT AND THEN STEP UP TO A FIVESIXTEENTHS TO ALLOW FOR THE FIVESIXTEENTHS BOLTS.

THE BOTTOM OF THE FEET WILL GET BOLTED AS WELL. SO THEY'LL NEED HOLES TOO. WELL IT'S A BASIC, SIMPLE PIECES, AS YOU CAN SEE, AS FAR AS FABRICATION GOES, BUT OUR RADIATOR IS NOT GOING ANYWHERE ON US. OKAY, NOW THAT WE'VE GOT OUR CORE SUPPORT DONE AND GOT THE RADIATOR MOUNTED TO IT, WE'VE GOT TO CONTINUE ON WITH SOME OF THE PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS BEFORE WE GET TO THE DECORATIVE SHEET METAL UNDER THE HOOD. WE'LL START OFF BY MAKING A CUSTOM UPPER RADIATOR HOSE TO GET OUR RADIATOR HOOKED UP TO THE ENGINE. THE MAIN REASON WE HAVE TO DO THIS IS BECAUSE IF YOU LOOK, OBVIOUSLY THE ANGLE OF OUR RADIATOR. SO LIKE MANY OTHER THINGS, IT'S GONNA HAVE TO BE CUSTOM FABRICATED ON THE CUTLASS. SO I'VE GONE AHEAD AND HUNG THE FRONT BELT DRIVE ASSEMBLY ON IT TO MAKE SURE THAT WHEN WE DO CUT THE

METAL FOR THE TOP HOSE THAT EVERYTHING WILL BE CLEARANCED AND AWAY FROM THE DRIVE ASSEMBLY LIKE IT NEEDS TO BE TO MAKE SURE THAT WE HAVE NO DRIVE PROBLEMS. I'M GOING TO ASSEMBLE THIS MUCH LIKE A BUNCH OF PUZZLE PIECES. FINDING A WAY TO MAKE THESE BENDS FIT INTO PLACE, THEN CUTTING THEM TO MAKE IT WORK. REMEMBER TO DOUBLE CHECK YOUR MARKS AND MEASUREMENTS, YOU CAN'T UNCUT IT. IT'LL REQUIRE A BIT OF FINESSE TO HOLD YOUR PUZZLE PIECES IN PLACE SO YOU CAN MARK THEM, BUT THIS IS WHAT IT'LL TAKE TO MAKE THEM FIT TOGETHER NICELY. IF YOU NEED TO, ASK A BUDDY TO HELP YOU OUT.

NOW WE'VE GOT OUR TUBE LENGTH FIGURED OUT, SO IT'S A MATTER OF MAKING SURE THAT WE'RE CLOCKED CORRECTLY AND MARKING THEM TO INDICATE HOW THEY'LL FIT TOGETHER. THEN WE'LL TACK THEM TOGETHER NICELY AND REPEAT THAT PROCEDURE ON THE LAST PIECE.

AFTER THE WHOLE THING IS TACKED TOGETHER, TOM WILL

TIG IT UP REAL NICE, WHICH WILL KEEP THE WELDS CLEANER THAN A MIG WOULD TYPICALLY DO. WELL THERE WE GO, THE CUSTOM MADE PIPE WE MADE FOR THE TOP POST TO KEEP FROM HAVING TO DICE AND SLICE A FACTORY RUBBER ONE IS GONNA WORK JUST FINE. THE BOTTOM ONE WON'T BE AN ISSUE CAUSE WE'RE GONNA USE A STOCK THERMOSTAT HOUSING AND WE SHOULD BE ABLE TO GET ONE OFF THE COUNTER. WHAT DO YOU THINK TOM?

(TOMMY)>> I THINK WE STILL HAVE A LOT TO DO.

(MANK)>> YES WE DO, BUT WE'RE ON OUR WAY.

(TOMMY)>> YEAH, YEAH, WE'RE CHIPPING AWAY AT IT.

(ANNOUNCER)>> STICK AROUND AND SEE HOW EASY IT CAN BE TO FABRICATE A CUSTOM STAINLESS EXHAUST SYSTEM AND THEN WE'LL SHOW YOU A THERMOSTAT TRICK THAT CAN REALLY HELP YOU OUT.

(MANK)>> OKAY GUYS, WE'RE MOVING ON FROM OUR COOLING SYSTEM AND THE FRONT ENGINE ASSEMBLY TO ANOTHER MAJOR COMPONENT ON OUR OLDSMOBILE, THE EXHAUST SYSTEM. WE'VE GOT TO GET IT IN AND GET IT MOCKED UP BECAUSE THE UPCOMING COMPONENTS UNDER THE CAR WILL HAVE TO BE WORKED IN AROUND IT. WE ALL KNOW THAT FITTING HEADERS ON A CAR CAN BE ONE OF THE MORE DIFFICULT THINGS TO DO. THERE ALWAYS SEEM TO BE FITMENT ISSUES WITH MOTOR MOUNTS, STEERING, FRONT SUSPENSION, ETCETERA. BUT IN OUR CASE WITH THIS BUILD WE'VE GOT SOMETHING THAT'S REALLY MAKING A DIFFERENCE. IF YOU'LL REMEMBER, THE CHASSIS FOR THIS CAR IS AN ART MORRISON GT SPORT FROM ART MORRISON ENTERPRISES. NOW BESIDES THE GREAT PERFORMANCE AND DRIVABILITY THAT THIS CHASSIS' GONNA GIVE US, THERE'S ANOTHER ADDED BONUS THAT COMES ALONG WITH US, AND THAT IS THAT ART MORRISON MANUFACTURES A SET OF HEADERS THAT ARE SPECIFIC TO THE CHASSIS THAT'S UNDER CAR. AND THESE THINGS ARE NO JOKE. THEY HAVE LONG TUBE INCH AND THREE QUARTER CERAMIC COATED INSIDE AND OUT TUBES. AND IF YOU HAVE AN APPLICATION LIKE WE DO THAT'S GONNA USE FUEL INJECTION, THE BUNGS FOR THE OTWO SENSORS ARE ALREADY WELDED IN. AND FROM HERE BACK TOMMY'S GONNA SHOW YOU WHAT THEY NEED TO DO.

(TOMMY)>> NOW FOR THE REST OF THE EXHAUST WE DECIDED

TO GO WITH THE MAGNAFLOW UNIVERSAL STAINLESS STEEL KIT. NOW WE ALSO CHOSE THE TWO AND A HALF INCH DIAMETER AND IT COMES WITH SOME 90'S, AND SOME BENDS, AND SOME STRAIGHTS SO THAT YOU CAN TAYLOR FIT THIS THING WHATEVER YOU'RE WORKING ON. AS FOR MUFFLERS AND CATS, WELL REALLY AND TRUTHFULLY, OUR OLDSMOBILE WITH THE AGE THAT IT IS, DOESN'T REALLY REQUIRE BY LAW TO RUN A CATALYTIC CONVERTER. AND THE FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM THAT WE'RE RUNNING, WELL IT'S BEEN CALIBRATED SO THAT YOU DON'T HAVE TO RUN THEM EITHER. BUT LETS SAY YOU'RE DOING AN LS SWAP AND YOU'RE RUNNING

THOSE FACTORY COMPONENTS. WELL MORE THAN LIKELY YOU'RE GONNA HAVE TO RUN A SET OF THESE. AND IF THAT'S THE CASE THEN MAGNAFLOW HAS YOU COVERED. THEY OFFER A VARIETY OF CATALYTIC CONVERTERS FOR BOTH UNIVERSAL AND DIRECT FIT APPLICATIONS. THAT WILL GET YOUR RIDE BOTH LEGAL AND BREATHING RIGHT IN NO TIME. AS FOR MUFFLERS WE'RE GOING WITH THESE ALUMINIZED BODY MAGNAFLOW GLASS PACKS. THEY'RE 26 INCHES LONG WITH TWO AND A HALF INCH INLETS AND OUTLETS. WE CHOSE THESE MUFFLERS BECAUSE OF THEIR COMPACT SIZE. THAT WILL ALLOW US THE MAXIMUM AMOUNT OF GROUND CLEARANCE, AND AT THE SAME TIME THIS COOL OLD SCHOOL DESIGN WILL GIVE OUR RIDE ONE GNARLY SOUND. LIKE WE SAID EARLIER, HEADERS CAN BE A MAJOR HEADACHE. SO IT'S A PRETTY BIG DEAL IF YOU CAN FIND A SET LIKE THESE, WHICH WILL JUST SLIP RIGHT INTO PLACE EVEN FOR MOCK UP. GOTTA DO A LITTLE BIT OF PROBLEM SOLVING BEFORE WE CAN START HANGING THE PIPES UP UNDER THE OLDS. WHAT WE'VE RUN INTO IS OUR HEADERS, OUR THREE INCH

COLLECTORS, AND OUR PIPES ARE TWO AND A HALF. SO WHAT I'VE DONE IS TAKE THE LIP OF THE BIGGER PIPE, CUT IT OFF, AND I'M GONNA WELD IT ON TO THE END OF THIS ONE AND THEN WE'LL BE GOOD TO GO.

(MANK)>> WE'RE GONNA BUILD THE CUSTOM EXHAUST FROM FRONT TO BACK, LIKE THE CUSTOM COOLANT TUBE WE MADE EARLIER.

WE'LL PUT THEM IN PLACE, MARK THEM, THEN CUT THEM.

(TOMMY)>> WE'LL CONTINUE TO USE THE TIG WELDER TO MAKE THE TUBES LOOK NICE. YEAH THEY'LL BE UNDER THE CAR, BUT IT'S THOSE LITTLE BITTY THINGS THAT YOU DO THAT MAKE IT THAT MUCH NICER.

(MANK)>> WE'RE ALSO GONNA TRY AND BUILD EACH SIDE IN

TANDEM SO THEY'LL LOOK THE SAME. WE CAN TACK THEM TOGETHER UNDER THE CAR USING OUR MIG WELDER THAT ALREADY HAS THE STAINLESS WIRE IN IT. WELL TOM I'LL TELL YOU WHAT, A LOT OF THE LITTLE THINGS WE DID THAT TOOK A LONG TIME, DIDN'T LOOK LIKE WE WERE GETTING ANYWHERE FAST. NOW THAT THE UNDERCARRIAGE OF THE CAR IS DONE, THE DRIVELINE'S IN IT, IT LOOKS LIKE WE'RE FINALLY GETTING SOMEWHERE.

(TOMMY)>> YEAH, A LOT OF TIMES THIS TYPE OF WORK CAN BE KINDA TIME CONSUMING. AND IF YOU WANT IT TO LOOK LIKE SOMETHING YOU'VE GOTTA DO THE TIME. BUT YOU GUYS MAY BE WONDERING ALSO WHAT THE HECK IS UP WITH OUR PIPES? WELL WE'RE PLANNING ON FABBING UP SOME EXHAUST TIPS

BUT THAT'S GONNA HAVE TO BE ANOTHER DAY. IT DOES LOOK NICE.

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP WE'VE GOT A TOOL YOU MAKE AT HOME TO CRIMP HOSES WITHOUT DAMAGING THEM, STICK AROUND.

(MANK)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK. IF YOU REMEMBER BACK WHEN WE TOOK OUR CAMARO OUT, WE HAD A PRETTY GOOD SHAKEDOWN RUN. NOTHING REALLY WENT BAD, EVERYTHING RAN WELL, BUT I'M GONNA DO A COUPLE OF MAINTENANCE ITEMS TODAY JUST TO HEDGE OUR BET COME THOSE 90, 95 DEGREE DAYS. I'M GONNA CHANGE OUR THERMOSTAT, SHOW YOU A LITTLE TRICK I GOT, MAYBE SAVE YOU A LITTLE TIME AND A LITTLE MONEY, MAKE IT WORK QUICKER AND GET HER BACK TOGETHER. WHAT I'M GONNA DO IS GO AHEAD AND TAKE THE THERMOSTAT OUT OF THE CAMARO. AS WE PUT THE CAR TOGETHER ORIGINALLY, WE PUT A 195 IN IT AND I'M GONNA GO AHEAD AND CUT IT BACK TO 180. THE BEAUTY OF EXPERIMENTING WITH SOMETHING LIKE CHANGING YOUR THERMOSTAT TEMP IS THAT IT'S A SUPER EASY AND QUICK MOD THAT CAN MAKE A BIG DIFFERENCE IN HOW YOUR ENGINE COOLS ITSELF. WHOA, MAN JUST TO GET THE GASKET OFF IN ONE PIECE, THAT'S PRETTY RARE. WHEN I TOOK THE THERMOSTAT OUT OF THE CAR YOU GUYS MAY HAVE NOTICED SOMETHING. IF YOU LOOK AT THE TOP OF THE THERMOSTAT, YOU CAN SEE THERE'S A SMALL HOLE DRILLED ON THE OUTER EDGE.

THE REASON THAT I'VE GONE AHEAD AND DRILLED THIS HOLE IN THE SIDE OF THE THERMOSTAT IS ONE BIG REASON. WHEN YOU GO TO FILL THE ENGINE UP WITH WATER, UNDERNEATH THE THERMOSTAT IT IS ABSOLUTELY AIR TIGHT. THAT WILL FORM A BIG AIR PACKET ON TOP OF THE WATER AS IT'S BLOWING UP INTO THE BLOCK UNTIL THAT PRESSURE EQUALIZES AND STOPS THE WATER FROM GOING IN.

IF YOU DON'T HAVE A HOLE IN IT TO SLOWLY BLEED THE AIR OUT OF THE TOP OF THE BLOCK, YOU'LL END UP WITH AN AIR POCKET ON TOP OF THE WATER BIG ENOUGH TO REALLY CAUSE A HEATING PROBLEM AND TO MAKE YOU GUESS HOW MUCH WATER WILL END UP FITTING INTO THE RADIATOR AND THE BLOCK WHEN IT'S FINISHED. IT COULD CAUSE AN OVERHEATING PROBLEM IF YOU DON'T BURP IT OUT.

YOU GUYS MAY HAVE NOTICED THAT ALL I DID WAS TAKE THE

HEATER HOSE AND FLIP IT UP OVER THE CARBURETOR AND DIDN'T HAVE TO DISCONNECT IT. BUT IN SOME CARS, SUCH AS PONTIACS AND FORDS, THE HEATER HOSE GOES INTO THE WATER NECK, AND I'M GONNA SHOW YOU ANOTHER LITTLE TRICK THAT'LL KEEP YOU FROM

LOSING ANY OF THE LIQUID OUT OF THE HEATER CORE AND THE

TOP OF THE BLOCK IF YOU NEED TO DO THAT JOB THE SAME WAY. THIS IS ONE OF THE WATER NECKS I JUST GOT DONE

TELLING YOU GUYS ABOUT. IT'S OFF OF, JUST HAPPENS TO BE A SMALL BLOCK FORD. WHAT YOU DO IS WHEN THE HEATER HOSE IS CONNECTED THERMOSTAT HOUSING, IF YOU DO AND YOU DON'T WANT TO END UP EMPTYING THE COOLANT OUT OF THE ENGINE, I'VE GOT

SOMETHING I'M GONNA SHOW YOU HOW TO DO.

WE'VE ALL GOT AN OLD PAIR OF LOCKING PLIERS LAYING AROUND THAT WE'VE USED AS A HOSE CLAMP BY TAKING THEM AND PUTTING THEM DIRECTLY ON THE HOSE KNOWING THAT WE MAY

HAVE A DANGER OF RIPPING IT, BUT WE GO AHEAD AND DO IT ANYWAY BECAUSE IT MAKES THE JOB EASY. I'M GONNA SHOW YOU GUYS HOW TO TAKE THOSE OLD PLIERS ALONG WITH A COUPLE OF BOLTS AND MAKE A SET OF HOSE CLAMPS THAT YOU CAN USE OVER AND OVER ON DIFFERENT KINDS OF HOSES WITHOUT ANY PROBLEM. IT'S A SIMPLE MATTER OF CUTTING THE HEAD AND THREADS OFF THE BOLTS. THEN LEAVING YOU WITH THE SMOOTH PART. THEN CLAMP THEM IN THE JAWS OF THE LOCKING PLIERS, GET YOUR WELDER, AND GO TO TOWN. NOW THAT YOU'VE GUYS HAVE SEEN HOW EASY IT WAS TO MAKE THE TOOL, HERE'S A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT WAYS YOU CAN USE IT UNDERNEATH THE HOOD OF THE CAR. YOU CAN USE IT TO CLAMP OFF STANDARD HEATER HOSES WHEN YOU'RE GONNA REPLACE A HEATER CORE,

WATER PUMP, THERMOSTAT. YOU CAN USE IT ON FUEL LINES IF YOU'RE GONNA WORK ON THE GAS TANK, REPLACE YOUR FUEL PUMP, AND IT CAN BE USED FOR OTHER APPLICATIONS SUCH AS POWER STEERING ASSEMBLIES, TRANSMISSION LINES TO THE RADIATOR, OR EVEN AN EXTERNAL COOLER. ANY THING THAT HAS A RUBBER LINE IN IT, IT WILL MAKE THE JOB REAL EASY AND YOU WON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT TEARING THE HOSE ITSELF. IF YOU'VE GOT ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT ANYTHING YOU SAW ON THE SHOW TODAY.

(TOMMY)>> GO OVER TO POWERBLOCK TV DOT COM.
Show Full Transcript

Comments