Engine Power Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

Edelbrock
Universal EFI Sump Fuel Systems
Permatex
Optimum Black Gasket Maker
Permatex
Optimum Grey Gasket Maker
Summit Racing
1970-1973 Camaro - TigerCage
Summit Racing
Detroit Speed Mini-Tubs
Summit Racing
Energy Suspension Body Mount Bushings

Episode Transcript

(NARRATOR)>> IF IT'S GETTING BIGGER TIRES IT'S GONNA NEED TUBS. TODAY ON ENGINE POWER OUR SPLIT BUMPER THUMPER RECEIVES A SET OF TUBS TO MAKE IT WIDE TIRE READY BUT STILL KEEP THAT FACTORY LOOK. PLUS A DIY ROLL CAGE FOR EXTRA SAFETY AND STRUCTURAL STIFFNESS, AND FRESH BODY MOUNT BUSHINGS GIVE US A SMOOTH RIDE WITHOUT SACRIFICING PERFORMANCE ON THE TRACK.

(MIKE)>> TODAY ON ENGINE POWER PAT AND I ARE WORKING ON A PROJECT WE CALL "THE SPLIT BUMPER THUMPER". IT'S A 1973 CAMARO WE'RE TURNING INTO A TRIPLE THREAT CONTENDER. IT'S A CAR THAT'S GONNA BE ABLE TO HANDLE THE AUTOCROSS, THE ROAD COURSE, AND THE DRAG STRIP IN STELLAR FASHION. NOW WE WANT TO KEEP ALL OF YOU GUYS UP TO SPEED ON THE BUILD. SO HERE'S A QUICK LOOK AT WHAT WE'RE WORKING WITH SO FAR. LAST TIME YOU SAW US WORKING ON THIS CAR WE REMOVED THE FRONT CLIP. NICE HUSTLE! THE SUBFRAME, AND FUEL TANK. PLUS THE REAR END AND LEAF SPRINGS. PREPARATION FOR THIS KILLER ONE PIECE CHASSIS BUILT BY STREET ROD GARAGE. BIG BRAKES, COIL OVERS, AND A FABRICATED NINE INCH REAR END ARE HUGE IMPROVEMENTS OVER WHAT WE PULLED OUT. THE ENGINE IS UNIQUE. IT'S A 440 INCH MOTOWN LS. IT USES A SMALL BLOCK CHEVY ROTATING ASSEMBLY AND LS INDUCTION. THIS ENGINE MAKES AWESOME POWER ON PUMP GAS. JUST LOOK AT THE GRAPH. [ engine revving ]

(PAT)>> TODAY WE'RE GONNA HANDLE EVERYTHING THAT NEEDS TO GET DONE TO MOUNT THE BODY TO THE CHASSIS, AND THAT INCLUDES WHEEL TUBS FOR OUR LARGER REAR TIRES, A ROLL CAGE THAT'S SPECIFICALLY BUILT FOR THIS '73 CAMARO, AND A TON OF OTHER STUFF THAT WILL TAKE THIS BUILD TO THE NEXT LEVEL, AND IT'S ALL GONNA GET STARTED BY HAVING THE WHEEL TUBS SWAPPED OUT.

(MIKE)>> FOR THAT WE NEED TO REMOVE SOME OF THE INTERIOR OF THE CAR, STARTING WITH THE SEATS. EVEN THOUGH WE'RE NOT REUSING THEM, THEY WILL BE TAKEN CARE OF DUE TO THE SHAPE THEY ARE IN. WITH A COUPLE OF BOLTS REMOVED, THE REAR SEAT BOTTOM AND BACK COME OUT.

(PAT)>> OH, WISH THERE WAS A BUNCH OF ONE HUNDRED DOLLAR BILLS IN HERE.

(MIKE)>> WOULDN'T THAT BE NICE?

BECAUSE THIS WAS AN LT MODEL, IT DID COME FROM THE FACTORY WITH ADDITIONAL INSULATION. WE'RE GETTING RID OF WHAT IS NECESSARY TO DO OUR WORK.

WITH EVERYTHING OUT OF THE WAY THE SURGERY BEGINS. DETROIT SPEED SENDS DETAILED INSTRUCTION WITH TEMPLATES TO ENSURE YOU MAKE THE PERFECT CUT. THEY EVEN HAVE PHOTOS SO YOU ALWAYS HAVE A VISUAL OF THE NEXT STEP. IT'S A LITTLE TIME CONSUMING BUT REMOVING THE INNER TUB IS LIKE REMOVING A PIECE OF A PUZZLE FROM THE MIDDLE.

HERE'S A COMPARO OF THE STOCK INNER TUB AND THE NEW DETROIT SPEED ONE. IT'S A QUALITY STAMPING THAT ENLARGES THE WHEEL WELL SO A LARGER TIRE CAN BE RAN. HERE AT THE POWERNATION STUDIOS THERE'S A LOT OF GIVE AND TAKE THAT GOES ON BETWEEN THE SHOPS. NOW PAT AND I BUILT A LOT OF ENGINES FOR THE PROJECT VEHICLES DOWN THE HALLWAY. TODAY WE'RE GETTING THAT FAVOR REPAID. JEREMY WECKMAN FROM XOR IS COMING DOWN TO HELP US INSTALL THE DRIVER'S SIDE WHEEL TUB AND WE GET A LITTLE BIT OF A BREAK TODAY.

(JEREMY)>> THIS CAR'S SO SOLID. I WANT TO TAKE MY TIME AND MAKE SURE THAT THE NEW TUB LOOKS LIKE IT CAME FROM THE FACTORY. SO USING A SPOT WELD CUTTER, I'M REMOVING THE SEAT BACK BRACE THAT CONNECTS THE TUB TO THE PACKAGE TRAY. THE FRONT TEMPLATE IS WELL MADE BUT NEEDS TO BE POSITIONED PROPERLY. ONCE IN LOCATION A CUT LINE IS TRACED ON THE FLOOR ITSELF. THE SAME GOES FOR THE REAR. TAPE IS RAN FROM FRONT TO BACK CONNECTING THE TWO TEMPLATE LINES TO ENSURE A STRAIGHT CUT. SO IF YOU LOOK REAL CLOSE YOU CAN SEE THE FACTORY SPOT WELDS WHERE THEY ACTUALLY PUT THE OUTER AND INNER WHEEL TUB TOGETHER IN WITH THE FLOOR ITSELF. SO WE'RE GONNA MARK EACH ONE OF THESE LITTLE SPOT WELDS, AND THEN WE'LL USE OUR SPOT WELD CUTTER AND WE'LL TRY TO CUT THOSE OUT. THAT WAY WE CAN SAVE ANY OF THIS JUST IN CASE WE NEED IT LATER CAUSE WE'RE NOT QUITE SURE WHAT WE HAVE TO CUT OUT YET. SO WE'LL GET RID OF A BUNCH OF THOSE AND THEN WE'LL COME BACK UP AND INSIDE HERE, CUT THE ACTUAL INNER TUB OUT. ONCE THE SPOT WELDS ARE ALL SEPARATED I'LL USE A SLICER WHEEL TO ROUGH CUT THE OLD INNER WELL OUT. THEN JUST CLEAN UP THE LIP.

(NARRATOR)>> COMING UP, JEREMY FINISHES UP THE TUBS WHILE MIKE GIVES THE ROLL CAGE A FABULOUS FINISH.

(PAT)>> WELCOME BACK TO ENGINE POWER. TODAY JEREMY FROM THE XOR SHOP STOPPED BY TO HELP US INSTALL THE MINI TUBS ON OUR TRIPLE THREAT "SPLIT BUMPER THUMPER". SO FAR HE'S REMOVED THE STOCK TUB, AND NOW ADDITIONAL METAL MUST BE CUT BEFORE WELDING IN THE NEW ONE.

(JEREMY)>> WITH A VARIETY OF DIFFERENT TOOLS, THE LONG CUT FROM THE FRONT TO THE BACK TEMPLATE IS MADE.

WITH THE TUB MOCKED UP, WE CAN MARK THE LINE FOR THE NEW WHEEL WELL FLANGES. SO THESE TWO PIECES ARE GONNA END UP MAKING THE INNER FLANGE THAT THE WHEEL TUB'S GONNA MOUNT TO. SO WE HAVE TO BEND THIS TO MATCH THE CONTOUR OF WHAT WE JUST CUT OUT FOR THE REAR AND FOR THE FRONT HERE. SO IT'S ONLY EIGHTH INCH PLATE STEEL. SO WE SHOULD BE ABLE TO SLOWLY MANIPULATE. THE GOOD THING IS YOU CAN ALWAYS BEND IT BACK IF YOU GO A LITTLE FAR. SO YOU CAN SEE HOW EASILY IT BENT.

ADD A LITTLE BIT TO THE END. NOW THAT THE REAR'S A GOOD FIT WE'LL MOVE ON TO THE FRONT. GET A BASE STARTING POINT ACTUALLY FOLLOWS THE CURVATURE OF THE FLOOR HERE REALLY WELL. [ welder crackling ]

(JEREMY)>> WITH THE FLANGE TACKED INTO PLACE, A COUPLE MORE TRIMMING CUTS ARE MADE. [ saw cutting metal ]

[ welder crackling ]

(JEREMY)>> I'M USING A PNEUMATIC HOLE PUNCH TO RECREATE THE FACTORY SPOT WELDS. THE DETROIT SPEED TUB GOES BACK INTO POSITION FOR THE LAST TIME AND IS BURNED IN. [ welder crackling ]

(PAT)>> WELL "J" I'M LIKE A BLISTER. I SHOW UP WHEN ALL THE HARD WORK'S DONE. MIKE DID THAT SIDE AND YOU DID THIS ONE. TELL ME ABOUT HOW IT WENT IN. IT LOOKS GREAT.

(JEREMY)>> IT ACTUALLY WASN'T THAT BIG OF A DEAL. THE WAY THAT I LIKE TO DO IT IS TRIM TO FIT. SO WHEN YOU PUT YOUR LINES ON WHERE THEY WANT YOU TO CUT I ALWAYS CUT A LITTLE BIT SHORT OF THAT. MAKE SURE I CAN BRING MY LINE OUT WHERE I NEED TO AS I FIT THE PIECE. SO IT WENT IN PRETTY GOOD. ALL THE PIECES THAT WERE MADE OR THAT WE HAD TO BEND, THEY ALL FIT ABSOLUTELY PERFECT AND IT'S ALL UP AND IN THERE NOW.

(PAT)>> WELL WE REALLY APPRECIATE IT, AND MAN, ALL WE'VE GOT TO DO IS, I'VE GOT THE HARD JOB NOW. I'M GONNA SEAM SEAL IT AND SHOOT SOME UNDERCOATING ON IT, AND WE'RE GOOD TO GO. SO MAN THANKS VERY MUCH, APPRECIATE IT.

(JEREMY)>> ANY TIME I'LL COME DOWN AND DO SOME WELDING.

(PAT)>> YOU'RE GONNA HAVE TO IF I'M INVOLVED.

(JEREMY)>> FANTASTIC.

(PAT)>> HERE'S A LOOK AT THE FINISHED WORK AFTER WE'VE SEAM SEALED AND UNDERCOATED IT. ALTHOUGH WE NEED IT TO MAKE ROOM FOR BIGGER TIRES, WE WANTED TO KEEP AN UNDERSTATED ALMOST FACTORY LOOK. THE DETROIT SPEED TUBS WORKED GREAT.

(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT AN EASY TO INSTALL ROLL CAGE MAKES THIS RACE CAR STRONGER AND SAFER.

(MIKE)>> THE NEXT STEP IN OUR TRIPLE THREAT ADVENTURE INVOLVES INSTALLING A ROLL CAGE. A WELL ENGINEERED CAGE HAS SEVERAL DUTIES. THE FIRST AND MOST IMPORTANT IS TO KEEP THE OCCUPANTS OF THE VEHICLE SAFE. SECOND, IT ADDS A LOT OF STRENGTH AND RIGIDITY TO THE CHASSIS, WHETHER IT'S A SUBFRAME OR FULL FRAME CAR.

(PAT)>> AND THAT ALLOWS THE SUSPENSION TO REACT MORE PREDICTABLY TO DRIVER INPUT FOR A BETTER HANDLING VEHICLE, AND WHEN THE CAR IS MORE PREDICTABLE THE DRIVER HAS MORE COMPETENCE, ADDING EVEN MORE SAFETY TO THE DRIVING EXPERIENCE.

(MIKE)>> WITH ALL THE TUBING THOROUGHLY CLEANED AND WIPED DOWN, IT'S TIME TO MIX SOME COLOR. IT'S A DURABLE BLACK SEALER THAT WILL GIVE ME A GOOD BASE FOR WHAT PAT AND I HAVE PLANNED FOR A FINAL COLOR. ROUND TUBING IS DIFFICULT TO SPRAY. MAKING SURE YOU GET A 100 PERCENT COVERAGE IS KEY. ALL THIS RECEIVED THREE COATS IN TOTAL. I'M GETTING IN A SUIT FOR THE NEXT STEP, WHICH IS SPRAYING THE CLEAR. WE MIXED IT WITH QUITE A BIT OF PEARL. THE IDEA IS TO MAKE THE BARS LOOK WET AT ALL TIMES AND MAKE YOUR EYES CHASE THE RADIUS OF THE PIPE. WHAT DO YOU THINK?

(PAT)>> WITH THE PAINT DRY IT'S TIME TO START THE INSTALL. THE TIGER CAGE COMES WITH EVERYTHING THAT YOU NEED TO PUT IT IN, BUT DON'T BE INTIMIDATE BY THE SHEER NUMBER OF PARTS YOU SEE HERE. THE CAGE HAS BEEN SPECIFICALLY ENGINEERED AND DESIGNED FOR THE DIY TYPE OF PERSON. THE TIGER CLAMPS ARE MADE FROM CAST STAINLESS STEEL, AND THE FASTENERS ARE EITHER GRADE EIGHT OR STAINLESS THEMSELVES. PER THE INSTRUCTIONS THESE MAIN HOOP MOUNTS ARE THE FIRST THING THAT ARE GONNA GO IN. WE USE THE BRACKET AS A TEMPLATE TO DRILL THE HOLES. WITH THE BRACKET IN PLACE, GRADE EIGHT HARDWARE AND BACKING PLATES WILL SECURE IT. [ drill spinning ]

(PAT)>> NOW THE MAIN HOOP IS PASSED INTO THE CAR. IT LOCATES INTO THE FLANGES OF THE PREVIOUSLY INSTALLED BRACKETS. MAKE SURE TO LEAVE ALL THE FASTENERS LOOSE UNTIL THE ENTIRE CAGE IS INSTALLED. A TIGER CLAMP IS ATTACHED TO THE MAIN HOOP AND WILL BE THE ANCHOR POINT FOR THE BAR THAT GOES INTO THE PACKAGE TRAY.

FROM INSIDE THE TRUNK ANOTHER TUBE INTERSECTS THE PACKAGE TRAY AND GOES TO THE TRUNK FLOORS. THESE FASTENERS SANDWICH THE PACKAGE TRAY AND THE TUBES TOGETHER. EVERY LOCATION THE CAGE ATTACHES TO THE BODY A STURDY BACKING PLATE IS USED. [ drill spinning ]

(PAT)>> MORE TIGER CLAMPS ATTACH THE ROAD RACE STYLE DOOR BARS TO THE MAIN HOOP. THESE DOOR BARS HAVE A GREAT PROFILE FOR PROTECTION AND EASE OF GETTING IN AND OUT OF THE CAR.

THE SEATBELT BAR IS THE FINAL ATTACHMENT.

(MIKE)>> LOOK AT THAT! FITMENT, FITMENT, FITMENT!

(PAT)>> THAT'S SOME ENGINEERING RIGHT THERE. OKAY THAT IS 21 RIGHT TO THE CENTER LINE.

(MIKE)>> WHAT'D YOU SAY?

(PAT)>> 21.

(MIKE)>> MONEY. IT COULDN'T BE ANY MORE PERFECT.

(PAT)>> NICE, NICE, NICE! GOOD HUSTLE!

(MIKE)>> IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR THE MOST ADVANCED RTV SILICONE GASKET MAKERS AVAILABLE HERE THEY ARE. OPTIMUM GRAY AND OPTIMUM BLACK FROM PERMATEX. NOW THE GRAY IS USED FOR HIGH TEMP, RIGID TORQUE, AND HIGH VIBRATION APPLICATIONS, AND IS GOOD TO 700 DEGREES. THE BLACK IS USED FOR HEAVY DUTY OIL APPLICATIONS, AND IS GOOD TO 500 DEGREES. NOW THIS CAN BE USED FOR DIFF COVERS, TIMING COVERS, AND OIL PANS. JUST LIKE THE GRAY, IT IS SENSOR SAFE. NOW BOTH COME WITH TWO NOZZLES FOR DISPENSING THE PRODUCT, AND ARE A LOT MORE FLEXIBLE THAN THE ULTRA GRAY AND ULTRA BLACK. YOU CAN GET YOURS ANYWHERE PERMATEX PRODUCTS ARE SOLD.

(PAT)>> ONE OF THE CHALLENGES OF CONVERTING YOUR CLASSIC RIDE TO EFI IS FUEL DELIVERY. EDELBROCK'S EFI FUEL SUMP UNIVERSAL KIT MAKES THAT A SNAP. THIS IS A STAND ALONE UNIT THAT WILL MOUNT VIRTUALLY ANYWHERE YOU HAVE ROOM FOR IT, AND WILL SUPPLY 30 TO 90 PSI FEEDING ALL MODERN EFI SYSTEMS WHILE STILL MAINTAINING THE USE OF YOUR STOCK TANK AND FUEL LINES. IT DOES NOT REQUIRE A BAFFLED TANK, AND REQUIRES NO UNDERCAR PLUMBING. ALL YOU DO IS HOOK YOUR EXISTING FEED LINE TO IT, YOUR NEW LINE TO YOUR EFI, AND A VENT BACK TO THE TANK AND YOU'RE GOOD TO GO. THIS SETUP RETAILS FOR ABOUT $375 BUCKS.

(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT THE CHASSIS AND BODY ARE FINALLY TOGETHER, AND WE THINK YOU'LL LIKE HOW IT LOOKS.

(MIKE)>> WE'RE BACK AND HAVE PLENTY OF WORK LEFT TO DO ON "PROJECT SPLIT BUMPER THUMPER". NOW WENT AHEAD AND STARTED GETTING THE CHASSIS READY TO BE MOUNTED TO THE BODY. WE HAD TO DO A LITTLE BIT OF CUTTING ON THE FLOOR PANS OF THE CAR. IT WAS EXPECTED AND NOT THAT MUCH WORK. CHECK IT OUT! I USED A SLICER WHEEL AND A BUZZ SAW TO REMOVE THE SECTION. THERE'S ONE ON EITHER SIDE, AND THAT'S WHERE THE FRAME RAIL IS GONNA RECESS UP THROUGH THE FLOOR. KEEP THE CUT AS NARROW AS POSSIBLE. IT WILL KEEP THE AMOUNT OF WORK TO COVER THE FRAME RAIL AT A MINIMUM. WE NEED TO REPLACE THE OLD, DISTORTED RUBBER BODY MOUNT BUSHINGS. SO WE GAVE SUMMIT RACING A CALL AND THEY SENT US THIS SET FROM ENERGY SUSPENSION. NOW THESE ARE MADE FROM ENERGY'S HYPER FLEX PERFORMANCE POLYURETHANE THAT'LL GIVE YOU A NICE, SMOOTH RIDE, BUT IT'S ALSO RUGGED TO HANDLE THE EXTREME ABUSE OF THE ROAD AND TRACK. THESE BUSHINGS INCORPORATE A STEEL RING THAT IS MOLDED IN FOR ADDED DURABILITY. ZINC PLATED HARDWARE IS INCLUDED AND ONE SET WILL TAKE CARE OF THE DRIVER AND PASSENGER'S SIDE OF THE CAR. THE INSTRUCTION SHEET MUST BE FOLLOWED FOR PROPER BUSHING PLACEMENT. OTHERWISE THE CAR MAY NOT SIT EVEN ON THE CHASSIS.

(PAT)>> THEY REGISTER IN THE BRACKETS ON THE CHASSIS. IT'S A SNUG FIT AND SHOULD BE TO ELIMINATE THE CHANCE OF THE BODY MOVING AROUND.

LOOK AT THAT!

PERFECT!

(MIKE)>> WELL PAT, HERE IT IS. THIS IS GONNA BE THE FIRST TIME THE CHASSIS AND THE BODY GO UP IN THE AIR TOGETHER. NOW IT SITS KILLER AT THIS HEIGHT BUT I CAN'T WAIT TO SEE IT UP THERE.

(PAT)>> I TELL YOU WHAT. FOR SWAPPING OUT A STOCK SUBFRAME VEHICLE FOR A RIGID CHASSIS, IT FIT GREAT AND IT WAS WAY EASIER THAN I THOUGH IT WAS GONNA BE.

(MIKE)>> YEAH THERE WASN'T THAT MUCH INVOLVED. A COUPLE OF CUTS ON THE FLOOR AND SHE WAS GOOD TO GO.

(PAT)>> LET'S GET HER UP IN THE AIR.

(MIKE)>> WOW, THAT IS NICE!

(PAT)>> IT DOESN'T GET ANY NICER THAN THAT IS RIGHT.

(MIKE)>> THAT IS REALLY NICE. LOOK HOW CLOSE...

(PAT)>> ALL THIS FITS. THAT IS A WELL ENGINEERED PIECE RIGHT THERE.

(MIKE)>> EVERYTHING'S TUCKED NICE.

(PAT)>> WHEN THEY'RE SEPARATE YOU' NOT GONNA BE ABLE TO TELL, LIKE GAPS HERE AT THE BODY AND THINGS LIKE THAT. THIS THING IS NICE.

(MIKE)>> NAILED IT!

(PAT)>> ALL HIS POINTS, THEY LINE UP. A LITTLE MINOR CUTTING BUT THAT WAS TO BE EXPECTED TO GET IT TO SIT WHERE IT'S SUPPOSED TO.

(MIKE)>> I MEAN LOOK HOW CLOSE THE CHASSIS SITS TO THE FLOOR OF THE CAR EVERYWHERE. I KNOW WE RECESSED THE FRAME RAILS AND THE TWO DROPS FOR THE SEAT LOCATION BUT OTHER THAN THAT THIS IS LIKE, RIDE HEIGHT'S GONNA BE KILLER.

(PAT)>> YEAH THAT GOES OFF THE BODY MOUNTS CAUSE YOU KNOW THIS THING'S ENGINEERED TO WORK WITH ALL THE BODY MOUNT PLACES, AND HE NAILED IT.

(MIKE)>> I LIKE NOW HE TIED INTO THE REAR SPRING LOCATIONS ON THE REAR OF THE SUBFRAME TO THE CHASSIS. I MEAN THIS IS JUST AWESOME.

(PAT)>> WE'RE THAT MUCH CLOSER.

(MIKE)>> YES WE ARE. WELL NOW STUFF'S GONNA START GOING PRETTY QUICKLY.

(PAT)>> YEAH, BUT THE ACTUAL, YOU KNOW FOR MOCKUP IT LOOKS GREAT BUT THE WHOLE THING HAS TO COME APART BECAUSE IT'S EASIER TO STICK THE ENGINE AND TRANS, AND GET OUR DRIVELINE OUT BECAUSE WE CAN LITERALLY JUST UNBOLT THE BODY AND DO IT, AND THEN DROP IT BACK ON. I'VE GOT TO LIFT IT BACK OFF ONCE I GET ALL MY MEASUREMENTS TO DO THE CAPS AND STUFF OVER THOSE FRAME RAILS FROM IN THE FLOOR, BUT THAT'S NOT... I'LL START THAT NEXT. THIS IS REALLY NICE.

(PAT)>> THIS IS SPECTACULAR. VERY, VERY HAPPY WE DID A SPLIT BUMPER.

(MIKE)>> THIS THING'S GONNA HAVE A LOT OF POWER TOO.

(PAT)>> YEAH, OH YEAH!

(MIKE)>> FOR MORE INFORMATION ON ANYTHING YOU'VE SEEN TODAY HEAD ON OVER TO POWERNATION TV DOT COM.

(PAT)>> WHEN WE'RE PLANNING AN ENGINE FOR A PROJECT THE ENGINE ITSELF AND ITS COMPONENTS DEPEND DIRECTLY ON WHAT TYPE OF VEHICLE IT'S GOING INTO. FOR INSTANCE A FULL BORE DRAG RACE ENGINE WILL BE QUITE DIFFERENT THAN A HIGH PERFORMANCE STREET OR DAILY DRIVEN VEHICLE.

(MIKE)>> HERE WE GO.

(PAT)>> WHEN WE DYNO OUR ENGINES WE OFTEN FOCUS ON PEAK HORSEPOWER AND TORQUE NUMBERS. THESE NUMBERS ARE VERY USEFUL FOR UNDERSTANDING HOW AN ENGINE WILL HANDLE ITS CHOSEN ROLE, BUT IT'S JUST AS IMPORTANT TO LOOK AT THE OVERALL POWER BAND AND OPERATING RANGE OF THE ENGINE. BY INTERPRETING THESE DYNO RESULTS WE WILL GET A BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF OUR ENGINE, AND TO ILLUSTRATE THIS WE'LL LOOK AT TWO DIFFERENT BIG BLOCK ENGINE COMBINATIONS FOR TWO DIFFERENT APPLICATIONS. FIRST LETS EXAMINE THE ENGINE FROM OUR "PRO STREET OR NO STREET" NOVA. 588 CUBIC INCHES OF BIG BLOCK CHEVY. THIS IS A PURPOSE BUILT RACE ENGINE WITH HIGH COMPRESSION DESIGNED TO OPERATE IN A VERY NARROW RANGE BETWEEN 5,500 AND 7,000 RPM. [ engine revving ]

(PAT)>> LOOKING AT THE DYNO GRAPHS WE CAN TELL IT DOES THIS VERY WELL. PEAK TORQUE IS AT 6,200 AND ONLY FALLS OFF SLIGHTLY AT THE END OF THE PULL. THE HIGHER YOU MAKE PEAK TORQUE THE LONGER IT WILL CARRY HORSEPOWER. PERFECT FOR DRAG RACE APPLICATIONS. AND SPEAKING OF HORSEPOWER, IT INCREASES THROUGHOUT THE ENTIRE OPERATING RANGE WITH NO FALL OFF AT ALL. JUST WHAT WE NEED FOR THE STRIP. DRAG CAR ENGINES LIVE AT HIGH RPM. SO HAVING THE POWER AND TORQUE IN THE UPPER RANGE OF THE POWER BAND IS IDEAL. WHILE THAT 588 IS A GREAT ENGINE FOR THE STRIP IT'S NOT EXACTLY STREET FRIENDLY. IT REQUIRES DISTILLED RACE FUEL TO RUN, AND AT LOW ENGINE SPEEDS IT'S VERY TEMPERAMENTAL, MAKING DRIVABILITY A BIT DIFFICULT. FOR A MORE STREETABLE YET HIGH PERFORMANCE BULLET THIS OLDS 455 IS A BETTER BIG BLOCK CHOICE. THIS IS AN ENGINE DESIGNED TO RUN ON PUMP GAS WITH A BROAD TORQUE CURVE AND GREAT HORSEPOWER IN A WIDER OPERATING RANGE. LOOKING AT ITS DYNO GRAPH WE CAN SEE THAT LOWER RPM TORQUE IS IMMEDIATE, AND ALTHOUGH IT DROPS OFF A LITTLE MORE IN THE UPPER END COMPARED TO THE 588 IT'S STILL PULLING HARD ALL THE WAY TO 6,000 RPM. THAT STRONG LOW END TORQUE GIVES YOU THAT SEAT OF THE PANTS RUSH DURING ACCELERATION FROM A DEAD STOP, WHICH EVERY GEARHEAD CRAVES. FROM 3,000 RPM HORSEPOWER BUILDS SMOOTHLY WITH MINIMAL FALL OFF AT THE VERY HIGH END OF THE OPERATING RANGE. THIS WIDE POWER BAND MAKES THE CAR FEEL FAST AT ANY ENGINE SPEED, MAKING BOTH WEEKDAY AND WEEKEND DRIVING MORE FUN. IT'S NOT JUST ABOUT PEAK HORSEPOWER AND TORQUE. BE HONEST WITH YOURSELF ON WHAT YOU ENGINE IS SUPPOSED TO DO. YOU'LL END UP WITH A BETTER BULLET.
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