Parts Used In This Episode

ARP
Main Studs, 2-Bolt Main, Ford, 240, 300, L6, Kit
ARP
Rod Bolts, High Performance Series, 8740 Chromoly Steel, Ford 240, 300, Inline 6, Set of 12
DeatschWerks
Fuel Injectors, 88 lb/hr, Ford, Set of 8
Harland Sharp
Harland Sharp 5.7 & 6.1L HEMI Fully Adjustable Roller Rocker Arm Kit
Loctite
Loctite Sleeve Retainer 640 - High Strength/High Temp - Green - 0.20-Fl Oz Tube
Magnaflow
2014 Chevrolet Camaro MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust Kit
The Industrial Depot
The Industrial Depot - Fasteners, Hardware, and Shop Supplies
Tommy's Auto Machine and Parts
Automotive engine machine work service
WD-40
WD-40 12 oz. Aerosol Lubricant

Episode Transcript

(ANNOUNCER)>> IT'S TIME FOR ENGINE POWER. TODAY IT'S MACHINE SHOP TECH AS WE START THE REBIRTH OF AN OLD SCHOOL FORD STRAIGHT SIX.

(JOHN)>> WELCOME TO ENGINE POWER, WHERE MORE OF IT IS ALWAYS THE GOAL. MORE POWER, TIRE SMOKE, BETTER ET'S, AND MORE CHECKERED FLAGS WE FOUGHT FOR. SO WHILE MOST GUYS ARE STUCK IN A ROLL CAGE ON THE WEEKENDS, THIS IS WHERE I GET MY JOLLIES, FINDING THE HIDDEN POWER POTENTIAL INSIDE THE ENGINE.

KINDA LIKE A SQUIRREL IN A TREE, THIS IS MY HAVEN. TODAY WE'RE IN SPRINGFIELD, TENNESSEE, AT TOMMY'S AUTO MACHINING, SPECIALIZING IN HIGH PERFORMANCE ENGINES. I WORKED HERE FOR SIX YEARS, LEARNING FROM FRANK OFRIA, WHO'S BEEN CREATING RACE WINNING ENGINE COMBOS SINCE BEFORE I WAS BORN. A CUSTOMER'S ON THEIR WAY TO SIT IN ON A DYNO SESSION FOR ANOTHER OF ONE OF FRANK'S CREATIONS.

I'M SO GLAD HE TOOK A CHANCE ON ME, A MARINE FRESH BACK FROM IRAQ.

(FRANK)>> A LITTLE BIT OF A WILD CHILD I'D SAY. YOU KNOW HE CAME TO US, AND WE HIRED HIM, AND HE WORKED FOR US FOR SEVERAL YEARS. HE'S A PRETTY GOOD GUY THOUGH. HE'S A GOOD WORKER. SHOW HIM ONCE AND HE GETS IT. YOU KNOW HE KINDA GOES OFF EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE ON A LITTLE SINGING THING. THAT PART'S A LITTLE BIT ANNOYING I'D SAY.

(JOHN)>> IN SPITE OF THAT HE STILL LETS ME COME BACK TO PLAY SOME TIMES, AND THIS IS THE TOY I BROUGHT, A FORD 300 STRAIGHT SIX FROM THE EARLY '70'S. BORN IN THE '50'S MAKING 170 HORSEPOWER AND A WHOPPING 283 FOOT POUNDS OF TORQUE. THEY WERE TOUGH AND RELIABLE. IT WAS A PERFECT MATCH FOR MANY SERVICE TRUCKS. IT'S NOT HARD TO FIND A FAN OF THESE INLINE SIXES. JIMMY HARRINGTON, WHO TOOK MY OLD JOB, CLAIMS ITS HIS FAVORITE RIGHT ALONG WITH THE FORD 460.

(JIMMY)>> THEY RUN FOREVER AND THEY RUN GOOD. THEY'RE STRONG MOTORS, AND THERE'S A LOT OF AFTERMARKET STUFF FOR THEM. YOU CAN GET FOUR BARREL INTAKES FOR THEM, HEADERS, CAMS, LOT OF PEOPLE USED TO RACE THEM IN DRAG RACING. WE DID ONE NOT TOO LONG AGO FOR A RAT ROD. A LOT OF PEOPLE USING THEM IN OFF ROAD TRUCKS AND ROCK CRAWLERS, THAT KIND OF STUFF.

(JOHN)>> SO 40 YEARS LATER WE PLAN TO BRING THIS THING BACK TO LIFE A LOT STRONGER THAN BEFORE. THIS ONE RETIRED IN A JUNKYARD BUT IT WASN'T BEYOND REPAIR. NOW IT WILL HOWEVER REQUIRE SOME SERIOUS MACHINE WORK FOR ITS NEW PURPOSE. AND AFTER A FEW MINUTES IN THE SHOT PEEN HERE'S WHAT WE FOUND. THIS EAR THAT'S BROKE OFF THE BELL HOUSING CAN BE FIXED, BUT ONLY BECAUSE WE HAD THE OTHER PIECE. NOW THE MAINS LOOK GOOD WITH NO EVIDENCE OF HEAT FROM A SPUN BEARING, BUT LOOK AT THIS. WE'VE GOT SOME NASTY GOUGES IN THIS NUMBER ONE CYLINDER, OR SLEEVE I SHOULD SAY.

YOU CAN TELL IT'S A SLEEVE BY THAT PARTING LINE RIGHT THERE. AND THAT'S REALLY NO BIG SURPRISE, ESPECIALLY

WHEN YOU KNOW HOW AN INLINE MOTOR WORKS. MOST OF THEM HAVE THE WATER PUMP RIGHT UP HERE IN FRONT NEXT TO THE NUMBER ONE AND TWO CYLINDERS. SO IT PULLS IN ALL THAT COLD WATER, KEEPING THEM FROM EXPANDING AS MUCH AS THE REST OF THE CYLINDERS,

CREATING TIGHTER TOLERANCES WHICH EQUALS MORE FRICTION. AND SINCE WE DIDN'T HAVE ANY OTHER CRACKS ON THIS BLOCK, THE FIRST ORDER OF BUSINESS IS GOING TO BE TO CHANGE OUT THAT SLEEVE. WE FIRST NEED TO GET A LENGTH MEASUREMENT OF THE CYLINDER SO WE KNOW HOW FAR TO BORE DOWN, AND GET A

MEASUREMENT OF THE OUTSIDE DIAMETER OF THE SLEEVE IN SEVERAL SPOTS JUST TO MAKE SURE IT'S ROUND AND DETERMINE OUR PRESS FIT SIZE. AFTER THAT WE CAN CENTER THE CUTTING HEAD IN THE BORE AND SHARPEN THE CUTTING TOOL. AND SET UP THE CUTTER TO START BORING. NOW FRANK WILL TAKE OUT ABOUT 70 THOUSANDTHS AT A TIME UNTIL WHAT'S LEFT OF THE SLEEVE CAN COME OUT. NOW HERE'S WHY IT WAS RESLEEVED TO BEGIN WITH, A CRACK IN THE CYLINDER WALL THAT GOES STRAIGHT THROUGH TO THE WATER JACKET. SO WITH SOME GREEN LOCTITE SLEEVE RETAINING COMPOUND WE CAN HAMMER IN THE NEW SLEEVE RESEALING THAT CRACK. NOW FRANK CAN BORE THE INSIDE DIAMETER OF THE NEW SLEEVE BACK OUT TO FOUR INCHES AND 55 THOUSANDTHS, AND SPOT FACE THE TOP OF THE SLEEVE BACK DOWN EVEN WITH THE DECK SURFACE. BECAUSE THESE ENGINES ARE SO LONG, WARPING OF THE DECK SURFACE IS COMMON. SO WE'LL FINISH THE SURFACE UP ON THE DECKING MACHINE. THIS ONE WASN'T TOO BAD. IT ONLY NEEDED ABOUT AN EIGHT THOUSANDTHS CUT TO CLEAN UP. SO WE'RE OFF TO A GOOD START ON ANOTHER REBIRTH OF THIS CLASSIC FORD 300.

(JOHN)>> WE'RE BACK AND STILL BEING A NUISANCE AT TOMMY'S AUTO MACHINE FOR MORE WORK ON THIS FORD 300. AND NOW THAT ALL THE DRY MACHINING IS DONE, WE CAN MOVE OVER TO THE WET MACHINING, GETTING

READY FOR A LINE HONE. FRANK STARTS BY CUTTING THE BOTTOMS OF THE CAPS FIVE THOUSANDTHS. NOW THIS SHOULD SINK THE HOUSING BORE DOWN TO ABOUT TWO AND A HALF THOUSANDTHS. I'M PREPPING THE BLOCK SIDE OF THE MAINS FOR THESE, NEW ARP STUDS. NEEDED TO STRENGTHEN THE BOTTOM END FOR THE ADDED TORQUE WE'LL BE MAKING. WITH THE CENTER CAP INSTALLED WE CAN HOIST IT INTO PLACE.

NOW WE'LL INSTALL THE REST OF THE CAPS AND TORQUE THEM TO 70 FOOT POUNDS. THAT WAY WE CAN CHECK TO SEE HOW MUCH WE ACTUALLY NEED TO REMOVE. THEN WE CAN HONE ALL THE MAINS BACK TO THE EXACT SAME

SIZE IT CALLS FOR IN A LINE, HENCE LINE HONE. NOW THIS WILL CREATE HEAT, SO FRANK DOES THIS IN STAGES AND CHECKS AS HE GOES ALONG. WHEN THE GAUGE HITS ZERO, THE MAINS ARE DONE, AND WE'RE READY FOR THE FINAL STEP IN BLOCK WORK, HONING THE CYLINDERS FOR NEW RINGS.

NOW FRANK STARTS OFF BY SETTING UP SHOES OR GUIDES BY PLACING THEM IN A FIXTURE INSIDE THE CYLINDER BORE. THIS TELLS HIM WHAT SHIMS TO USE FOR THIS

PARTICULAR BORE SIZE. THEN HE DOES A PROCESS FOR THE STONES. THIS SETS UP THE BORE SIZE ON THE HONING HEAD. SINCE THE STONES WILL WEAR DURING THE HONING, THE SHOES WILL KEEP THE HEAD STRAIGHT AND TRUE WHILE THE STONES WEAR THINNER. THEN HE'S GOING TO BEVEL THE EDGES OF THE CYLINDER TO BE EASIER ON THE STONES AS WELL AS THE RINGS WHEN IT'S TIME TO PUT THEM IN. THEN HE SETS UP THE STROKE, OR HOW FAR THE HONE WILL MOVE UP AND DOWN IN THE CYLINDER. IF IT GOES DOWN TOO FAR, IT COULD CRASH AT THE BOTTOM AND BREAK THE STONES. SINCE WE'RE ALREADY 60 THOUSANDTHS OVER ON THE REST OF THE CYLINDERS, FRANK STARTS OUT BY ROUGH HONING THE NUMBER ONE SLEEVE TO GET IT CLOSE TO THE

REST OF THE CYLINDERS. THEN HE WILL SWAP OUT THE STONES TO A FINE GRIT TO FINISH THE BLOCK.

HE ISN'T GONNA TAKE A LOT OF METAL OUT. JUST ENOUGH TO GET A GOOD FINISH FOR OUR NEW RINGS AND MAKE SURE OUR CYLINDERS ARE ROUND FROM TOP TO BOTTOM. HE MOVES FROM ONE SIDE TO THE OTHER BECAUSE HONING CREATES HEAT. THIS PROCESS WILL HELP KEEP IT FROM SOAKING INTO THE OTHER CYLINDERS. AND JUST LIKE THE LINE HONE HE CHECKS FOR ROUNDNESS AND TAPER AS HE GOES ALONG. ONCE YOU GO TOO FAR, YOU CAN'T GET IT BACK. ONCE HE'S DONE WITH THE FINE STONES, HE'S GONNA BALL HONE IT BACKWARDS TO KNOCK OFF ANY LITTLE SHARP EDGES LEFT FROM THE STONES, AND THEN FINISH IT WITH SOME BRUSHES TO GET THAT SLICK FINISH FOR A GOOD RING SEAL. SHORT OF A JET WASH, WE'RE DONE WITH THE BLOCK AND I

THINK FRANK IS DONE WITH US TOO. HIS CUSTOMER'S DUE SOON SIGN OFF ON THE DYNO RESULTS. AND WHILE FRANK IS BUSY I'M READY TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF A SHOP FULL OF MACHINES AND TOOLS.

(JOHN)>> WE'RE BACK, AND WHILE FRANK AND JIMMY ARE RUNNING THE PUMPS ON THIS SOON TO LEAVE STREET ENGINE,

I'M BURNING TIME ON THEIR MACHINES. NOW WE'RE NOT ONLY JUST DOING BLOCK WORK TODAY. WE'RE ALSO GONNA FIX THIS CYLINDER HEAD, AND WE'VE GONE AHEAD AND RUN IT THROUGH THE OVEN AND SHOT PEEN AND CHECKED FOR CRACKS, WE'RE GOOD. WE'VE GOT A GOOD CORE, THAT'S ABOUT

ALL IT IS RIGHT NOW. THIS THING'S GONNA NEED A LOT OF LOVE IF WE WANT IT RUNNING, AND THAT'S BECAUSE WHEN THE LEAD WAS REMOVED FROM PUMP GAS IN THE '70'S, THE CAST IN EXHAUST SEATS COULDN'T TAKE THE ABUSE. NOW EVEN THOUGH THEY LOOK LIKE THEY'VE BEEN REPLACED, LOOK HOW FAR THESE HAVE SUNK COMPARED TO THE INTAKES. NOW THAT LEAD WAS A GREAT UPPER CYLINDER LUBRICANT, BUT SINCE WE CAN'T GET THAT AT THE PUMP ANYMORE WE'VE GOT TO INSTALL SOME HARDENED EXHAUST SEATS. NOW BEFORE WE CAN DO THAT WE'VE GOT TO PUT IN SOME LINERS. FIRST WE NEED TO KNOCK OUT THE OLD LINES IN THE INTAKE GUIDES. AND AFTER ALL THE INTAKES ARE OUT WE CAN INSTALL THE NEW ONES. NEXT WE'LL RUN THIS BROACH THROUGH IT THAT'S GOT

EXPANDERS ON IT, WHICH WILL SEAT THE LINER INSIDE THE GUIDE AND START THE SIZING PROCESS. TRIM OFF THE EXCESS, AND FINALLY HONE THEM OUT TO

SIZE, IN OUR CASE ABOUT ONE THOUSANDTHS CLEARANCE. NOW THE EXHAUST HAVE HAD BRONZE FALSE GUIDES PUT IN THEM.

SO WE'LL JUST TOUCH THEM UP WITH A HONE AND SAVE THEM AT ABOUT A THOUSANDTHS AND A HALF CLEARANCE. AND ONCE WE'RE DONE HONING THE GUIDES, WE CAN WASH THE HEADS, GET IT READY TO REPLACE THOSE EXHAUST SEATS. AND IT STARTS BY CUTTING THE OLD ONES OUT. NOW THIS IS REALLY WHERE YOU'VE GOT TO KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING. IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE RIGHT FITMENT YOU CAN CRACK THE HEAD OR THE SEAT COULD FALL OUT WHILE THE MOTOR'S RUNNING. SO AFTER MAKING SURE THE GUIDE IS STRAIGHT AND INLINE WITH THE DRILL, DETERMINE THE DIAMETER OF THE NEW SEAT, AND MATCH IT WITH A CUTTER SLIGHTLY SMALLER. NOW CAREFULLY CUT THEM OUT. WE ALSO PRESET THE DEPTH WE WANT WITH THE DRILL STOP. AND IF DONE RIGHT THIS IS ALL THAT'S LEFT. THESE ARE A PRESS FIT, SO WE'LL NEED TO PUT IN SOME HIGH TEMP SEALER JUST TO HELP IT STICK. AND AFTER ABOUT AN HOUR OR SO IN THE FREEZER, THE SEATS WILL SHRINK JUST A LITTLE BIT. THIS WILL HELP US HAMMER THEM IN. AND WHEN IT WARMS BACK UP, THE EXPANSION WILL KEEP THEM THERE. NEXT WE CAN FLIP IT OVER AND WORK ON THE TOP SIDE. WE'RE GONNA REMOVE THE PRESSED IN THREEEIGHTHS

STUDS FOR SCREW INS, BUT FIRST WE NEED TO REMOVE THE PINS, WHICH ARE GOOD AND CHEAP UPGRADE TO THE FACTORY STUDS. BUT WHAT WE'LL BE DOING IS RIPPING THEM OUT, CUTTING THEM DOWN, AND TAPPING THE HOLES FOR A SET OF SEVENSIXTEENTHS SCREW IN STUDS WE'LL BE INSTALLING DURING ASSEMBLY. AND AFTER WE'RE DONE WITH THE ROCKER UPGRADE, WE CAN CUT DOWN THE VALVE GUIDES FOR A POSITIVE CONTROL SEAL. NOW THIS WILL HELP KEEP THE SEAL STATIONARY ATTACHED TO THE GUIDE, UNLIKE THE UMBRELLA SEAL THAT MOVES UP AND DOWN WITH THE VALVE. NOW WE'RE READY FOR THE FUN STUFF, THE VALVE JOB. WE'LL START OFF WITH THE EXHAUST SEATS, AND THIS IS WHAT'S GONNA HELP US MAKE SOME GOOD POWER. THIS IS A CUTTER I LIKE TO USE ON SOME OF MY HIGH PERFORMANCE ENGINES THAT HAS A 40 THOUSANDTHS SEAT WIDTH AND A BEAUTIFUL RADIUSED THROAT CUT. AND ONCE I'VE CUT THE FIRST SEAT I'LL CHECK BY LAPPING IT IN. THIS WILL LEAVE A MARK WHERE OUR SEATS AREA IS, THAT IS PERFECT.

THE INTAKES AREN'T BAD. A SIMPLE TOUCH UP IS ALL THEY NEED. AND WHILE I FINISH, WE ASKED FRANK FOR ONE MORE FAVOR, BALANCING THE CRANK SHAFT. FIRST BY SPINNING THE CRANK TO SEE WHERE WE NEED TO ADD OR REMOVE METAL TO BRING THE CRANK SHAFT TO A TRUE ZERO BALANCE. LOOKS LIKE WE NEED TO REMOVE THREE GRAMS IN THE FRONT AND ONE IN THE BACK. NOT BAD BUT NOT PERFECT. SO FRANK GRINDS AWAY A SMALL AMOUNT OF EXTRA METAL FROM THE FRONT TO SEE WHERE THAT PUTS US, AND CHECKS AGAIN.

GETTING CLOSER, ONE GRAM IN THE FRONT AND ONE GRAM IN THE BACK. SO FRANK GRINDS A LITTLE MORE AND SPINS AGAIN, PERFECT UP FRONT. NOW WE CAN WORK ON THE BACK BY DRILLING A SMALL HOLE IN THE COUNTER WEIGHT. AND YEP YOU GUESSED IT, ANOTHER SPIN, NICE. NOW ALL THAT'S LEFT TO DO IS ADDRESS THE CASTING FLASH OFF THE CRANK AND ROLL OVER THE SHARP EDGES. THIS'LL ADD JUST A LITTLE BIT OF STRENGTH TO THE CAST CRANK. IT'S THE LITTLE THINGS THAT GO A LONG WAY WHEN BUILDING A RELIABLE AND POWERFUL ENGINE.

(JOHN)>> WE'RE ALMOST DONE FOR THE DAY AND FRANK'S READY TO SHOW A CUSTOMER THE RESULTS OF HIS LABOR. (MIKE S.)>> I WAS LIKE, THAT'S ONE OF THOSE THINGS THAT YOU NEVER GET YOUR MONEY BACK OUT OF.

(JOHN)>> MIKE SHELTON, ALONG WITH HIS SON AND GRANDSON, ARE HERE FOR THE SHOW.

HE ORDERED A STROKED 408 CLEVOR FOR HIS WEEKEND STREET TRUCK. [ engine revving ]

(JOHN)>> FIRST RUN 472 IN HORSEPOWER, 530 IN TORQUE.

(FRANK)>> MAYBE PLAY WITH THE TIMING A LITTLE BIT. I'VE GOT IT SET AT 34 DEGREES.

(JOHN)>> A BUMP TO 36 DEGREES AND ONE MORE RUN. [ engine revving ]

(FRANK)>> 482 IN POWER, 542 IN TORQUE.

(MIKE S.)>> THAT IS AWESOME!

(FRANK)>> IT'S A WHOLE LOT BETTER THAN I ANTICIPATED, HONESTLY. (MIKE S.)>> I WAS EXPECTING 390 AND 490 ON THE TORQUE.

(FRANK)>> AND NOTHING'S REAL RADICAL. A MEAN MILD CAM. YOU'LL PULL SOMETHING WITH IT, IT'LL PULL. (MIKE S.)>> THAT'S CRAZY, NEVER ANTICIPATED THAT MUCH.

(JOHN)>> AND THAT MAKES THE CHECK A WHOLE LOT EASIER TO WRITE. WHILE FRANK ENDS ON A HIGH NOTE I'VE GOT ONE MORE THING TO GET DONE. NOW WE'VE SHOWN YOU GUYS BEFORE HOW UPGRADING YOUR MAIN CAP FASTENERS TO AN ARP STUD CAN MAKE YOUR BLOCK STRONGER. AND EVERY TIME WE BUILD AN ENGINE WE EITHER USE AN ARP HEAD BOLT OR A STUD, BUT I WANT TO GO OVER ONE OF THE MOST OVERLOOKED AND OVERWORKED PARTS OF THE

MOTOR, AND THAT'S THE ROD BOLT. SO WHETHER IT'S THE HIGH PERFORMANCE BUILD OR JUST A STOCK DAILY DRIVER, CHANGING THEM OUT REALLY IS A MUST. AND AFTER THEY'VE BEEN TORE DOWN AND RUN THROUGH THE SHOT PEEN, THE FIRST STEP IS TO TOUCH UP OUR BIG END SIDES ON THE BELT SANDER. NOW THIS IS JUST A TOUCH UP ONLY. SLIGHTLY HOLDING THE ROD DOWN UNTIL WE GET SHINY METAL. THEN WE CAN TOUCH UP THE SMALL ENDS AS WELL. NOW THIS ISN'T THAT CRITICAL ON A STRAIGHT SIX BECAUSE

EACH ROD HAS ITS OWN JOURNAL, BUT ON A VEIGHT THE RODS SHARE A JOURNAL. SO THIS IS HOW SIDE CLEARANCE IS SET.

TOO LITTLE SIDE CLEARANCE AND YOU CAN LOSE HORSEPOWER, OR EVEN BURN UP A ROD BEARING.

TOO MUCH AND YOU CAN LOSE OIL PRESSURE. I'LL BE CUTTING THE ROD HALF ABOUT ONE THOUSANDTHS OF AN INCH. NOW THIS TAKES A WHILE TO GET GOOD AT BECAUSE IF YOU CUT TOO MUCH IT'S HARD TO KEEP THE BORE ROUND WHEN YOU'RE HONING IT BACK OUT. AND IF YOU'VE CUT THE ROD AT AN ANGLE, THEN YOU'LL FIGHT TAPER, WHICH MEANS ONE SIDE OF THE ROD WILL BE A DIFFERENT SIZE THAN THE OTHER. THE CAPS GET THE SAME TREATMENT, AGAIN AT

ABOUT A THOUSANDTHS. THIS SHOULD IN THEORY MAKE MY HOUSING BORE TWO THOUSANDTHS SMALLER SO I CAN HONE IT BACK OUT OF THE SIDES. NOW WE'RE READY FOR THE NEW ARP ROD BOLTS, AND WITH A LITTLE LUBE WE CAN START THEM BY HAND. I CAREFULLY USE THE PRESS TO LOCK THEM IN. THESE ARE A THROUGH BOLT, SO THEY HAVE A NEURALED AREA ON THEM THAT WILL SEAT THEM INSIDE THE ROD AND KEEP THEM FROM MOVING. NOW OBVIOUSLY THE REASON WE'RE PUTTING IN NEW ROD BOLTS IS BECAUSE THE ARP'S ARE MUCH STRONGER THAN THE FACTORY ORIGINALS. BUT IT ALSO WILL MAKE THE ROD ITSELF STRONGER TOO. THEN WE CAN INSTALL THE CAPS BACK ON THE RODS WHICH THEY CAME OFF OF, TORQUE THEM DOWN, START HONING. NOW THIS IS A SONNEN POWER STROKE MACHINE THAT HOLDS THE ROD FOR YOU TO KEEP EVERYTHING TRUE AND ROUND, BUT IT'S NOT GONNA SIZE THE ROD AUTOMATICALLY. I HAVE TO HONE FOR A COUPLE OF SECONDS AND THEN CHECK. THEN HONE FOR A COUPLE MORE SECONDS, AND THEN CHECK AGAIN. NOW RIGHT HERE I'M AT ABOUT A HALF A THOUSANDTHS FROM ZERO, SO I'LL SLOW DOWN UNTIL I GET TO THE EXACT SIZE. SWEET, I LOVE IT WHEN A PLAN COMES TOGETHER. FRANK TAUGHT ME A LOT ABOUT MACHINING, AND A LOT ABOUT LIFE AS WELL. HE LOVES GIVING PEOPLE MORE THAN EXPECTED. (MIKE S.)>> VERY, VERY IMPRESSED WITH NUMBERS.

(JOHN)>> IT'S NOT JUST GOOD BUSINESS. (MIKE S.)>> BUT I APPRECIATE THE EXTRA 75 FOOT POUND OF TORQUE TOO.

(JOHN)>> IT'S A HARD TO FIND PASSION. EVEN IF IT DOES LEAVE ON AN OLD TIRE. I HOPE SOMEDAY YOU WILL FIND YOUR FRANK.

(MIKE)>> IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR AN EXHAUST SYSTEM THAT SOUNDS GREAT AND WILL LAST A LIFETIME UNDER YOUR RIDE, THIS IS IT. MAGNAFLOW'S NEW 2014 CAMARO SS FULL CAT BACK SYSTEM. NOW THIS THING IS MADE FROM 100 PERCENT THREE INCH STAINLESS STEEL TUBING AND IT'S MANDREL BENT. OVER HERE FIVE BY EIGHT BY 14 MUFFLERS THAT LEAD OUT TO A POLISHED TIP. NOW THIS IS GONNA GIVE A NICE, SMOOTH, DEEP TONE. NOW THESE THINGS ARE DYNO PROVEN TO MAKE HORSEPOWER AND TORQUE.

WANT TO CHANGE THE TONE OF YOUR SS-? WELL YOU CAN TO THE TUNE OF $1,600 BUCKS.

(JOHN)>> THE HIGHER THE HORSEPOWER GOAL, THE MORE SPECIALIZED THE PARTS ARE GONNA HAVE TO BE. AND THAT'S WHY HARLAN SHARP NOW OFFERS A FULLY ADJUSTABLE SET OF SHAFT MOUNT ROCKERS FOR THE LATE MODEL HEMIS. NOW WHAT I MEAN BY THAT IS WHEN YOU START ADDING CAM LIFT, SPRING PRESSURE, AND HIGHER RPM'S, THE FACTORY ROCKER ARMS SIMPLY WON'T DO. AND ANY OF YOU OUT THERE THAT HAVE EVER BROKEN AN ROCKER ARM ESPECIALLY WITH THE NEEDLE BEARING SETUP KNOW OF THE COST REPAIRS THAT COME ALONG WITH IT. NOW THESE THINGS AREN'T CHEAP BUT THE ADDED INSURANCE OF KNOWING YOU'VE GOT A STRONGER SHAFT SETUP, AND THE FACT THAT THEY DON'T REQUIRING ANY MACHINING TO

THE CYLINDER HEAD SOUND PRETTY GOOD. BUT THE FACT THAT YOU CAN GET THEM AT SUMMIT

RACING DOT COM TODAY SOUNDS EVEN BETTER.

(MIKE)>> WHETHER YOU'RE ADDING POWER TO A SPORT

COMPACT, MUSCLE CAR, OR EUROPEAN AND YOU NEED A LITTLE EXTRA FUEL, SUMMIT RACING NOW OFFERS DEATSCHWERKS INJECTORS. NOW THESE THINGS OFFER AN EXCELLENT SPRAY PATTERN AND ATOMIZATION FOR GREAT IDLING CHARACTERISTICS AND EASY TUNING. NOW EACH SET IS FLOW TESTED AND COMES WITH ITS OWN REPORT. THIS SET IS FOR A MUSTANG G/T AND WILL RUN YOU ABOUT $489 BUCKS. IF YOU NEED PRICING FOR YOUR APPLICATION, LOG ON TO SUMMIT RACING DOT COM. AND WE'LL SEE YOU AGAIN FOR THE SECOND PART OF JOHN'S CLASSIC FORD 300 PUT BACK TOGETHER THE WAY YOU GUYS WOULD DO IT WITH AFFORDABLE PERFORMANCE PARTS. NOW WE'RE NOT BUILDING A RACE ENGINE, JUST A STRONGER VERSION OF FORD'S OLD WORK MULE. WE'LL SEE YOU THEN.
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