More Project Basket Case Episodes

Truck Tech Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

ARP
Bolts, 12-Point Head, Stainless 300, Polished, 5/16 in.-18 RH Thread, 1.000 in. UHL, Set of 5
Dupli-Color
Paint, Paint Shop Finish, Lacquer, Gloss, Brilliant Silver, 1 qt., Each
Dupli-Color
Undercoating, Rubberized, Textured, Black, Sound Eliminator, 17 oz., Aerosol, Each
Single Source
Evercoat, Auto Body Filler, Rage, Gold, 3.0 Liters, Each
Classic Industries
1973-91 Bed Front Panel: Original GM or reproduction front bed panels for all 1973-86 Fleetside pickups and 1987-91 Fleetside crew cab and dually models
EBC Brakes
Stage 4 and Stage 5 brake kits
LMC Truck
Radiator Grille Panel
Miller Electric Manufacturing Co.
Digital Infinity, Black Ops Welding Helmet
PPG
PPG DCU 2021 clearcoat
PPG
Deltron DMD 1684 paint
Single Source
K38 Urethane Primer Surfacer-Gallon PPG
The Industrial Depot
The Industrial Depot - Fasteners, Hardware, and Shop Supplies

Episode Transcript

(ANNOUNCER)>> OUR F-100 IS BACK WITH TIPS ON METAL REPAIR, BODY WORK, WELDER AND PAINT GUN SETUP.

(JEREMY)>> PLUS I'LL SHOW YOU HOW TO LAY DOWN A TWO TONE PAINT JOB WITH AN ACCENT TODAY ON TRUCK TECH.

(JEREMY)>> TODAY I COULDN'T BE MORE EXCITED. WE FINALLY GET TO LAY DOWN SOME PAINT ON OUR F-100 RESTO MOD. NOW IT'S BEEN A TON OF HARD WORK AND A LOT OF LATE NIGHTS BUT HERE'S WHERE IT STARTS TO PAY OFF AND WE CAN KINDA SEE THE FINISH LINE.

(LT)>> WE ARE SO CLOSE.

JEREMY HAS THE FRAME AND SUSPENSION PAINTED UP IN

THE FINAL BODY COLORS, BUT IN REVERSE. THE OUTSIDE OF THIS TRUCK'S GONNA BE THIS WHITE COLOR AND WILL HAVE A FEW CHARCOAL ACCENTS HERE AND THERE. AND WITH THE LEVEL OF QUALITY PAINT THAT'S GONE INTO THE FRAME, WELL YOU CAN ONLY IMAGINE HOW NICE

THE OUTSIDE OF THIS TRUCK'S GONNA LOOK WHEN BUMPUS IS DONE WITH IT.

(JEREMY)>> YEAH WE COULDN'T HAVE ASKED FOR THE CHASSIS TO COME OUT ANY BETTER. WE TOOK IT FROM BARE METAL, PRIMED, BLOCKED, PAINTED, AND REASSEMBLED IT IN JUST A FEW DAYS TIME, AND WE'LL GO OVER EVERYTHING FROM PAINT GUN SETUP TO HOW TO CUT AND BUFF THAT BRAND NEW PAINT. BUT BEFORE WE GET THAT FAR I'VE GOT ONE LAST PANEL LEFT TO PREP, AND IT'S THIS VALENCE WE ORDERED FROM LMC. NOW THE PART SHIPPED TO US IN PERFECT CONDITION READY

TO SCUFF AND SHOOT RIGHT OUT OF THE BOX, BUT ON OUR F-100 WE'RE NOT GONNA RUN ANY BUMPERS. SO THE OPENINGS IN THIS PANEL, THEY GET A LITTLE BIT OF METAL TREATMENT. NOW I WENT AHEAD AND CUT THE FRAME OFF WHERE IT STUCK THROUGH THE VALENCE AND THIS IS WHERE THE FRONT BUMPER WOULD HAVE MOUNTED, BUT THESE CAN HIT THE SCRAP PILE.

THE FIRST STEP IN GETTING OUR VALENCE SMOOTH IS MAKING CARDBOARD TEMPLATES. I'M LAYING A PIECE OF THIN CARDBOARD OVER THE OPENING AND TRACING IT OUT ON THE BACK SIDE. ONCE I CUT IT OUT I'LL GO AHEAD AND TRANSFER THE TEMPLATE OVER TO A PIECE OF SHEET METAL. WHEN DOING WORK LIKE THIS I LIKE TO USE 20 GAUGE STEEL. IT'S VERY EASY TO WORK AND EASY TO CUT. I'LL MAKE THE BEND USING THE PANEL AS A GUIDE.

THAT WAY THERE'S NO GUESS WORK. I'LL PROBABLY NEED TO TWEAK IT A LITTLE BIT,

BUT THIS'LL GET ME IN THE BALLPARK. [ welder crackling ]

(JEREMY)>> NOW I KNOW YOU GUYS HEAR US TALK A LOT ABOUT CONTROLLING HEAT WHEN WELDING SHEET METAL CAUSE WE ALL KNOW IF YOU CREATE TOO MUCH HEAT TOO QUICKLY YOU WILL WARP THE PANEL. SO A GOOD WAY TO CONTROL THAT HEAT IS TO KNOW YOUR WELDER SETUP AND SETTINGS. NOW I HIGHLY RECOMMEND A 110 VOLT WELDER BECAUSE THEY'RE VERY COST EFFECTIVE AND EFFICIENT WHEN DOING SHEET METAL WORK LIKE THIS. SO IF YOU'RE NEW AT WELDING CHECK THE INSIDE OF YOUR WELDER DOOR. MOST WELDERS WILL GIVE YOU BASIC SETTINGS ON VOLTAGE AND WIRE SPEED FOR WHAT THICKNESS OF METAL YOU'RE WELDING, AND THEN PRETTY MUCH DIAL IT IN FROM THERE. AND A COOL FEATURE TO A LOT OF NEWER WELDERS IS THEY ACTUALLY HAVE AN AUTOMATIC WIRE SPEED SETTING. THIS WAY YOU ONLY HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT DIALING IN YOUR VOLTAGE. AND IF YOU'RE SCARRED TO JUMP RIGHT IN AND START WELDING ON YOUR BRAND NEW PANEL A GOOD IDEA IS TO GRAB A COUPLE OF PIECES OF SCRAP METAL IN THE SAME GAUGE THICKNESS AS THE PANEL YOU'RE WELDING. GO AHEAD AND SET YOUR WELDER UP TO THE SPECIFICATIONS AND IT'S A GOOD STARTING POINT.

[ welder crackling ]

(JEREMY)>> YEAH I'M NOT HAPPY WITH THAT PENETRATION. TURN IT UP A LITTLE BIT.

HEY! WE'VE GOT A DANGLER. [ welder crackling ]

(JEREMY)>> YOU CAN SEE WITH OUR FIRST SET OF WELDS NOT REAL GOOD PENETRATION THERE, AND AS WE TURNED THE WELDER UP WELL IT GOT A LOT BETTER. NOW THIS WAY WE'LL KNOW EXACTLY HOW OUR PANEL'S GONNA WELD, BUT NOT ONLY THAT THIS IS JUST GOOD PRACTICE TO MAKE YOU A BETTER WELDER. WHEN WELDING THIN SHEET METAL I USE POINT ZEROTWOTHREE OR POINT ZEROTWOFOUR WIRE, AND FOR SHIELDING GAS I GO WITH 90 PERCENT ARGON AND 10 PERCENT CO TWO. THIS MIXTURE IS GOOD BECAUSE IT GIVES US GOOD WELD WITH ALMOST NO SPATTER. [ grinder spinning ]

(LT)>> NOW OUR '55 F-100 IS A PROJECT THAT JEREMY AND I INHERITED HALF WAY THROUGH AND LIKE A LOT OF YOU GUYS AT HOME GETTING PROJECTS THAT ARE UNFINISHED, THERE'S A LOT OF PARTS THAT COME WITH IT, SOME OF WHICH MAY OR MAY NOT HAVE BEEN ALREADY INSTALLED. SO WE NEED TO MAKE SURE WE KNOW WHAT WE HAVE AND THAT IT FITS PROPERLY. A PERFECT EXAMPLE OF THAT PART WOULD BE THE DRIVESHAFT. AS THE SUSPENSION CYCLES UP AND DOWN, THE REAR AXLE ACTUALLY MOVES FARTHER AWAY AND CLOSER TO THE TRANSMISSION. AND IF YOUR DRIVESHAFT'S THE WRONG LENGTH, WELL YOU'VE GOT SOME PRETTY BIG PROBLEMS. WHEN YOU INSTALL THE DRIVESHAFT, GO AHEAD AND BOTTOM IT OUT INTO THE TRANSMISSION AND YOU SHOULD HAVE ABOUT AN EXTRA INCH TO INCH AND A HALF CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE YOKE ON THE REAR AXLE. THAT'S EXACTLY WHERE WE'RE AT, SO WE'RE GOOD TO GO.

(JEREMY)>> WITH THE METAL WORK COMPLETE NOW COMES FILLER. THE PRODUCT I'M USING IS LIGHT WEIGHT EVERCOAT RAGE. THIS WILL LEVEL OUT THE PANEL BEFORE WE PRIME.

ONCE IT TACKS UP I'LL START THE BLOCKING PROCESS. THIS WILL KNOCK THE FILLER DOWN TO THE POINT WHERE I CAN SWITCH TO A FINER GRIT PAPER.

I'VE GOT THE FILLER SANDED WITH 36 GRIT, EVERYTHING'S STARTING TO FEEL REALLY GOOD, AND WE'RE GETTING A NICE FEATHERED EDGE. SO I'M HAPPY WITH WHERE WE'RE GOING. NOW THE NEXT STEP IS TO SAND IT WITH 80 GRIT PAPER. NOW WHAT WE WANT TO DO HERE IS MAKE SURE WE GET ALL OF THESE 36 GRIT SCRATCHES OUT BECAUSE LET'S FACE IT, THEY'RE NASTY. IF WE WERE TO PRIME OVER ANY OF THEM IT WOULD PROBABLY SHOW UP IN OUR END RESULT, AND I'VE NOTICED DOING BODY WORK OVER THE YEARS, THOSE 36 GRIT SCRATCHES, THEY'RE JUST HARD TO SEE AND SOMETIMES YOU DON'T KNOW YOU'VE LEFT THEM UNTIL IT'S TOO LATE. SO I'VE DISCOVERED OVER THE YEARS A GOOD IDEA IS TO WIPE THE AREA WITH DRY GUIDE COAT. THIS WAY ONCE YOU START BLOCKING YOU CAN SEE ALL OF THOSE SCRATCHES. SEE ALL THAT STUFF THERE, IT'S JUST NASTY. NOW THIS WAY WE'LL KNOW WE'RE GETTING ALL THE SCRATCHES OUT BUT NOT ONLY THAT IF THERE'S ANY SMALL PIN HOLES HIDING ANYWHERE ON US WE'LL BE ABLE TO SEE THEM. WE CAN PUTTY THEM OUT AND IT'S ONE LESS THING YOU HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT.

(ANNOUNCER)>> LATER JEREMY IS PRIMED TO DO HIS THING WHEN OUR F-100 IS COLOR BLIND NO MORE.

(LT)>> WE'RE BACK ON TRUCK TECH GETTING CLOSER TO THROW SOME COLOR ON OUR '55 F-100 CAB AND BODY PANELS.

WITH THE VALENCE ALL SMOOTHED OUT, JEREMY CAN WIPE IT DOWN WITH WAX AND GREASE REMOVER BEFORE SHOOTING IT WITH ONE COAT OF DP 50 EPOXY PRIMER FROM PPG. THIS WAS APPLIED TO ALL OUR METAL AND PROVIDES EXCELLENT ADHESION TO MANY DIFFERENT SURFACES INCLUDING FIBERGLASS.

(JEREMY)>> WHOO! AFTER A 30 MINUTE FLASH TIME I'LL FOLLOW UP WITH PPG'S K-38 HIGH BUILD PRIMER/SURFACER. THIS WILL GIVE THE PANEL ENOUGH MATERIAL TO BLOCK OUT, REMOVING ALL IMPERFECTIONS. BACK IN THE SHOP I CAN START KNOCKING IT DOWN, STARTING WITH GUIDE COAT. THIS IS AN ESSENTIAL STEP BEFORE YOU START BLOCK SANDING. IT SHOWS ME THE HIGHS AND LOWS, SO IT WILL BE EASIER TO STRIP AWAY ANY WAVES AND WIGGLES, MAKING THE PANEL LASER STRAIGHT. WE'VE GOT THE VALENCE ALL SANDED WITH 180 GRIT PAPER AND NOW WE'RE READY FOR 320. NOW ALL OF THE STEPS WE TOOK WITH THIS PANEL ARE THE SAME STEPS THAT WE TOOK FOR EVERY PIECE OF THE TRUCK. SO WE'LL GET THIS THING SANDED AND START MOVING SOME PARTS OUT OF HERE.

(LT)>> GO YOUR WAY A LITTLE BIT.

(JEREMY)>> ALL THE WAY TO THE BACK.

(LT)>> WE HAVE THE EXTERIOR SHEET METAL OF OUR '55 SANDED, PREPPED, AND 100 PERCENT READY TO LAY DOWN SOME COLOR ON FINALLY.

NOW THE ONLY PART OF THE TRUCK WE HAVEN'T ADDRESSED IS THE BACK SIDES OF THESE FENDERS.

(JEREMY)>> YEAH THE PROBLEM WITH THESE OLDER TRUCKS IS THERE'S NO PROTECTION BETWEEN THE TOPS OF THE TIRES AND THE BOTTOM OF THE SHEET METAL. SO THERE'S A GOOD CHANCE A TIRE COULD GRAB A ROCK AND SLING IT UP AND PUT A DENT IN OUR PANEL OR CRACK THE

PAINT, AND THE LAST THING YOU WANT TO DO IS HAVE TO SPOT IN ON THAT BRAND NEW PAINT JOB.

(LT)>> TO PREVENT THAT FROM HAPPENING WE'RE ACTUALLY GOING TO LAY DOWN A COAT OF RUBBERIZED

UNDERCOATING ON THESE FENDERS. IT PROVIDES A CUSHION FOR THE ROCKS, AND WE CAN EVEN GO BACK LATER AND PAINT IT THE SAME COLOR AS THE OUTSIDE OF THE BODY.

(JEREMY)>> SINCE WE'VE GOT THE CAB IN THE BOOTH I'VE GOT A LITTLE BIT OF MASKING TO DO SO I CAN GET THAT THING READY TO PAINT, AND IF DON'T MIND SPRAYING THESE WITH UNDERCOATING FOR ME.

(LT)>> YOU TRUST ME TO DO THAT?

(JEREMY)>> HEY MAN, IT TOOK A MINUTE.

(LT)>> I CAN PAINT, I CAN FINALLY PAINT.

(JEREMY)>> YOU BETTER DO IT RIGHT.

(LT)>> OH IT'S GONNA BE AWESOME. WHOO HOO! PREP BEGINS BY SANDING WITH 180 GRIT SAND PAPER AND A RED SCUFF PAD FOR THOSE HARD TO GET TO AREAS. TO KEEP THE UNDERCOATING OFF OF OUR PREPARED SURFACES I'LL MASK OFF THE TOP AND SIDES OF ALL THE PANELS, AND COVER UP THE HOLES. I'M GOING TO USE DUPLICOLOR PROFESSIONAL SOUND ELIMINATOR. IT'S UNDERCOATING THAT HAS A RUBBERIZED FINISH THAT WILL GIVE US ENOUGH MILL THICKNESS FOR PROTECTION AGAINST ROAD DEBRIS, CORROSION, AND WILL ELIMINATE ROAD NOISE. YOU CAN ALSO USE THIS STUFF TO PROTECT YOUR

TREES AFTER PRUNING, GO FIGURE.

WHAT JEREMY LIKES ABOUT IT, IT'S PAINTABLE, WHICH

YOU'LL SEE SHORTLY.

(ANNOUNCER)>> NEXT THE PANELS ARE HUNG ON WIRE WITH CARE IN HOPES OF SOME PIGMENT SOON TO BE THERE.

(JEREMY)>> WHEN YOU BUY A SET OF TWO PIECE OR BEAD LOCK WHEELS, I BET YOU DON'T GIVE A SECOND THOUGHT ABOUT THE FASTENERS THAT HOLD THEM TOGETHER. WELL LT'S GOT SOME TIPS ON HOW TO IMPROVE DURABILITY AND LOOKS.

(LT)>> THE LAST THING YOU NEED WHEN YOU PUT YOUR PRIDE AND JOY THROUGH THE RIGORS OF A HARDCORE TRAIL IS A WHEEL FAILURE. EVEN WHEELS THAT COST $1,000 DOLLARS OR MORE CAN COME WITH INFERIOR FASTENERS. THE BOLTS HOLDING THEM TOGETHER CAN'T WITHSTAND THE ABUSE OF GOING OFF ROAD. ON THE LEFT IS A STANDARD BOLT AND ON THE RIGHT IS THE ARP REPLACEMENT.

AMONG ITS NUMEROUS FEATURES IS THE THREADS ARE ROLLED AFTER HEAT TREATING. THIS INCREASES THEIR RESISTANCE TO FATIGUE AND CREATES A MUCH STRONGER BOLT. ONE BY ONE YOU CAN REPLACE THE BOLTS.

BE SURE TO TORQUE THEM TO PROPER SPEC. NOT ONLY ARE THESE WHEELS A LOT STRONGER, BUT THEIR APPEARANCE IS DRASTICALLY IMPROVED. THIS UPGRADE ALSO APPLIES TO MANY POPULAR TWO PIECE WHEELS USED ON THE STREET, STRIP, AND THE ROAD COURSE.

(JEREMY)>> THIS IS MY VISION FOR WHAT I SEE THIS TRUCK LOOKING LIKE. WE HAVE WHITE FOR OUR MAIN OVERALL COLOR, CHARCOAL FOR THE DESIGN ON THE HOOD, AND WE HAVE ORANGE FOR THE PIN STRIPE TO GO AROUND THAT DESIGN WITH LITTLE ACCENTS HERE AND THERE. SO I HAD SINGLE SOURCE OUT OF NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE, SEND ME EVERYTHING I NEED TO COMPLETE THIS PAINT JOB. WE HAVE A GALLON OF PPG WHITE SEALER, TWO GALLONS OF WHITE BASE WITH REDUCER, CHARCOAL, WHICH WE PAINTED THE FRAME WITH. IT WILL ALSO GO ON THE HOOD AND THE DASH. ORANGE FOR THE PIN STRIPE ON THE HOOD, AND TWO GALLONS OF PPG'S 2021 CLEAR. NOW SINCE US PAINTERS TEND TO BE PRETTY PARTICULAR THERE'S ONE THING THAT I DO BEFORE EVERY PAINT JOB.

WHEN I KNOW I'M GOING TO BE USING MORE THAN ONE GALLON OF PAINT ON A PROJECT, I LIKE TO TAKE A VERY CLEAN FIVE GALLON BUCKET AND DUMP BOTH GALLONS OF BASE IN, MIX THEM TOGETHER THOROUGHLY. THEN FILL EACH GALLON BACK UP. NOW WHY DO I DO THIS? BELIEVE IT OR NOT I'VE BOUGHT TWO GALLONS OF THE EXACT SAME PAINT AND IT DIDN'T MATCH, AND SOMETIMES YOU DON'T KNOW IT UNTIL YOU'VE ALREADY SPRAYED THE PANEL AND THEN IT'S TOO LATE. SO MIXING THE PAINT TOGETHER IN ONE BUCKET WILL ENSURE THAT YOU'RE GETTING AN EXACT MATCH. SO WHY TAKE THE CHANCE CAUSE THIS STUFF COSTS TOO MUCH.

YOU'VE SEEN US SPRAY PROJECTS IN OUR BOOTH FOR YEARS, AND LOOKS PRETTY SIMPLE RIGHT? KEEP THE GUN EIGHT TO 10 INCHES FROM THE PANEL, CONSTANT MOTION, DON'T BEND YOUR WRIST, BUT BEFORE WE EVEN GO THERE WE ALWAYS HIT THE WALL

WITH A TEST PATTERN. BUT WHAT IS IT EXACTLY THAT WE'RE LOOKING FOR?

NOW TAKE THIS PATTERN FOR EXAMPLE. WE HAVE HEAVY MATERIAL UP TOP AND ON THE BOTTOM, AND

HARDLY ANY IN BETWEEN. THIS IS A GOOD INDICATION THAT YOU HAVE TOO MUCH FLUID OR TOO MUCH PRESSURE. NOW IF YOU DIDN'T HAVE ENOUGH FLUID OR ENOUGH PRESSURE YOU WOULD HAVE A VERY ROUGH TEXTURE, AND IT WOULD CAUSE POOR HIDING, AND JUST BE HARD TO COVER THE PANEL, BUT LET ME SHOW YOU HOW TO DIAL THIS THING IN. NOW THERE'S THREE MAJOR SETTINGS ON MOST ALL GUNS.

YOU HAVE AIR CONTROL, A FLUID CONTROL KNOB,

AND FAN CONTROL. NOW THE FIRST THING I USUALLY DIAL IN IS AIR PRESSURE.

SO I RUN A REGULATOR AT THE GUN. I'LL SET IT AT 30 TO 35 PSI. THE GUN WORKS REALLY NICE THERE. THE NEXT THING I'LL DO IS ADJUST FAN CONTROL. I PULL THE TRIGGER OPEN AND I ADJUST THE FAN IN UNTIL I FEEL PRESSURE ON THE TRIGGER. AS SOON AS I FEEL THAT PRESSURE I QUIT ADJUSTING BECAUSE I KNOW I'VE GOT IT DIALED IN PERFECTLY. AND AS FAR AS FAN CONTROL, I USUALLY RUN IT ALL THE

WAY OPEN AND I GET A PRETTY NICE PATTERN. NOW IT LOOKS REALLY NICE. IT'S GOOD AND CONSISTENT. IT'S A CIGAR SHAPE, FOOTBALL SHAPE LIKE, THAT'LL DO REALLY WELL. SEALER IS ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA BECAUSE IT GIVES US A UNIFORM COLOR TO TOP COAT OVER. THIS WILL REDUCE THE AMOUNT OF BASE WE WILL USE, AND THEREFORE CUTTING DOWN ON THE AMOUNT OF MATERIAL WE'RE LAYING ON THE PANEL. JUST ONE COAT GETS THE JOB DONE.

ALRIGHT, WE'VE GOT ONE COAT OF SEALER LAID DOWN. EVERYTHING'S COVERED, LOOKING REALLY GOOD. LAY DOWN A FEW COATS OF BASE. I'LL USE THIS SAME GUN SETUP AS I USED FOR THE SEALER, BUT I'M MOVING THE GUN AT A FASTER PACE. THE GOAL HERE IS FOR COVERAGE. SPRAYING YOUR COLOR ON TOO WET COULD CAUSE RUNS OR TEXTURE, WHICH LEADS TO ORANGE PEEL.

SO MEDIUM IS THE GOAL. ONCE AGAIN I'LL MAKE THREE PASSES OF THE WHITE. I'M USING PPG 1684 MIXED ONE TO ONE WITH DT 885 REDUCER. THE TYPE OF REDUCER YOU USE IS BASED ON THE TEMPERATURE OF YOUR SPRAYING ENVIRONMENT. SO ALWAYS CHECK THE TECH SHEETS FOR THE PROPER MATCH. TO JIVE WITH WHAT I'VE PLANNED FOR THE UPHOLSTERY MORE MASKING WILL PREVENT OVERSPRAY FOR OUR NEXT COLOR. THIS CHARCOAL WILL MATCH THE INNER FENDERS, FRAME, AND INSIDE DOOR PANELS. IT'S A HEAVY METALLIC THAT IS ALSO LAID DOWN IN THREE COATS.

ALRIGHT WE'VE GOT ALL OF OUR BASE LAID DOWN.

WE'VE GOT THE DASH IN CHARCOAL, EVERYTHING'S LOOKING REALLY COOL. NOW WE CAN LAY DOWN THREE COATS OF PPG'S 2021.

(ANNOUNCER)>> NEXT JEREMY GOES BACK TO THE HOOD.

(JEREMY)>> NOW I'VE GOT MOST OF THE PARTS OF THE TRUCK ALREADY PAINTED. I WENT AHEAD AND SPRAYED THE DOORS AND HAVE THEM

TWO TONED TO MATCH THE DASH, INNER FENDER WELLS ARE PAINTED, AND WE'RE GETTING THERE. NOW I'VE GOT THE HOOD IN THE BOOTH WITH A COAT OF SEALER LAID DOWN READY FOR OUR DESIGN. GO VOLS RIGHT? NOW THERE ARE A COUPLE OF WAYS WE CAN ACCOMPLISH THIS. WE CAN LAY DOWN THE WHITE BASE, FOLLOWED BY THE CHARCOAL, AND THEN MASK UP FOR OUR ORANGE PIN STRIPE, BUT WE'RE JUST WASTING A LOT OF MASKING MATERIAL

HAVING TO DO THAT. NOW WE COULD FOLLOW THAT SAME PROCESS AND THEN HAND PIN STRIPE THE ORANGE, BUT LET'S FACE IT. NOT EVERYONE CAN USE A PAINT BRUSH. SO THE WAY I'M GONNA DO THIS I FEEL IS THE MOST LOGICAL. IT'S GONNA CUT DOWN ON THE AMOUNT OF MATERIAL WE'RE LAYING ON THE HOOD ALONG WITH A LOT OF TIME AND MASKING. START BY LAYING DOWN A COAT OF ORANGE. EVEN THOUGH THIS WILL BE A THINK ACCENT STRIPE, I'LL USE A FAIRLY WIDE PATTERN. NOW THIS WILL GIVE ME SOME WIGGLE ROOM ON ITS EXACT LOCATION. AFTER TWO COATS I CAN TAKE QUARTER INCH FINE LINE TAPE AND PULL A NICE LINE WHERE I WANT THE PIN STRIPE TO BE. NOW YOU MAY HAVE TO DO THIS A COUPLE OF TIMES TO GET IT STRAIGHT, AND IT DOESN'T HURT TO PULL A FEW MEASUREMENTS TO MAKE SURE YOUR LINE IS EVEN ON EACH SIDE OF THE HOOD. AFTER THAT WE'RE BASICALLY FILLING IN THE BLANKS. I'LL MASK UP TO MY FINE LINE TAPE TO COVER THE ORANGE. THEN PAINT THE CENTER SECTION CHARCOAL.

AFTER IT DRIES, I CAN DO THE OPPOSITE. MASK UP THE CENTER SECTION, THEN SPRAY THE WHITE BASE COAT. FINALLY I'LL PULL OFF ALL THE PAPER AND LAY DOWN SOME CLEAR OVER ALL THE COLORS. TURNED OUT NICE!

(LT)>> EBC BRAKES MAKES IT EASY TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT PAD AND ROTOR COMBINATION FOR NEARLY

ANY APPLICATION. THE STAGE FOUR KIT IS PERFECT FOR TRUCKS AND SUV'S WITH MILD UPGRADES LIKE HEAVIER WHEELS AND TIRES. IT COMES WITH THE GREEN STUFF 7,000 SERIES PADS AND USR SLOTTED ROTORS FOR SILENT BRAKING WITH MINIMAL DUST. ON THE PERFORMANCE SIDE THE STAGE FIVE KIT INCLUDES YELLOW STUFF HIGH FRICTION PADS AND GD SPOT

DRILLED AND VENTED ROTORS. IT PROVIDES COOLER BRAKING TEMPERATURES WITH MAXIMUM STOPPING POWER. CHECK OUT EBC BRAKES DOT COM FOR MORE.

(JEREMY)>> RESTORING YOUR CLASSIC TRUCK IS WAY EASIER NOW THAT REPOPPED SHEET METAL IS AVAILABLE, AND CLASSIC INDUSTRIES IS ONE OF THE LARGEST

DISTRIBUTORS OF REPRODUCTION PERFORMANCE AND ORIGINAL GM AND MOPAR PARTS AND ACCESSORIES. THIS REPLACEMENT HEADER PANEL IS FOR A '73 THROUGH '87 GM FLEET SIDE PICK UP AND IT'S ONLY $65 BUCKS PLUS SHIPPING, AND THEIR WEBSITE MAKES IT EASY TO FIND WHAT YOU NEED.

GO TO CLASSIC INDUSTRIES DOT COM FOR MORE.

(LT)>> JUST AS WELDING TECHNOLOGY HAS IMPROVED, SO HAS THE SAFETY EQUIPMENT ESSENTIAL TO ANY JOB. THIS IS THE MILLER DIGITAL INFINITY SERIES BLACK OPS WELDING HELMET, AND IT FEATURES A SUPER WIDE VIEWING ANGLE TO ELIMINATE TUNNEL VISION. IT FEATURES DIGITAL CONTROLS FOR ALL THE ADJUSTMENTS AND HAS MODES FOR WELDING, CUTTING, AND GRINDING. IT ALSO FEATURES FOUR BUILT IN ARC SENSORS, BUT MY FAVORITE PART IS IT ONLY WEIGHS 23 OUNCES, AND IT'S AVAILABLE AT YOUR LOCAL WELDING SUPPLIER.

(JEREMY)>> WELL WE RAN OUT OF TIME TODAY. SO WE WON'T GET TO CUT AND BUFF BUT THERE ARE A FEW PANELS THAT WE CAN GO AHEAD AND ASSEMBLE, AND ADMIRE OUR WORK.

(LT)>> MAN THIS THING IS LOOKING GREAT. WE'VE GOT ONE PROBLEM THOUGH.

(JEREMY)>> WHAT'S THAT?

(LT)>> WE CAN'T CALL IT BASKET CASE ANYMORE, IT'S JUST TOO NICE.

(JEREMY)>> THAT'S TRUE. MAN I HAD A LOT OF FUN PAINTING THIS TRUCK AND I THINK I'M JUST HAPPY TO FINALLY SEE IT START COMING TOGETHER.

(LT)>> I KNOW, THIS IS A MAJOR MILESTONE AND ALL BUT WE DO HAVE A LOT OF WORK LEFT TO DO. WE'VE GOT GLASS, INTERIOR, WIRING.

(JEREMY)>> I'LL TELL YOU WHAT ELSE, SLEEP.

(LT)>> SLEEP!
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