More Super Dually Episodes

Trucks! Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

Auto Body Color & Supply Co.
Norton 4618 SpeedGrip Structural Adhesive - Urethane, 40 Minutes, 220 ml
Dupli-Color
Bed Coating, Bed Armor, Aerosol, 16 oz., Each
Matco Tools
Ergonomic Handle. Removes radiator hose from clamps and fittings. Pulls cotter pins. 9' Length. RTG1MB - Green. RTO1MB - Orange
RockAuto.com
Heater core, '97 Dodge Ram 3500, 5.9L diesel
RockAuto.com
Power steering pressure hose, 16mm Female O-Ring x 18mm Male O-Ring x 38 1/2"
RockAuto.com
Power steering pressure hose, 16mm Male O-Ring x 18mm Female O-Ring x 34 1/2"
RockAuto.com
Radiator, diesel 5.9 p/u, auto transmission
RockAuto.com
Straight Heater Hose (Standard); 5/8" - Priced Per Foot
The Eastwood Company
Eastwood Rust Converter, Aerosol
Woodward Fab
18" Deep Throat Bead Roller

Episode Transcript

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY WE'RE WORKING HARD WIRING, PLUMBING, AND INSTALLING GAUGES ON PROJECT SUPER DUALLY, OUR '79 FORD F-350 BODY THAT WE MOUNTED ON A '97 CUMMINS POWERED DODGE CHASSIS THAT'S BEEN CONVERTED TO A DUALLY. IT'S ALL TODAY HERE ON TRUCKS.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO TRUCKS. WELL TODAY WE'RE BACK ON PROJECT SUPER DUALLY, OUR '79 FORD CREW CAB BODY THAT WE'VE GOT SITTING ON TOP OF OUR '97 DODGE DIESEL CHASSIS. NOW WE'RE AT THE POINT IN THIS PROJECT WHERE ALL THE BIG PIECES ARE THERE AND WE'VE JUST GOT SOME FINISH WORK TO DO, HOOKING UP THE STEERING AND THE BRAKES AND DOING SOME PLUMBING AND WIRING. NOW THOSE THINGS TEND TO SOAK UP A LOT OF TIME, BUT THE GOOD NEWS FOR US IS WE'VE GOT SOME HELP IN THE SHOP TODAY.

(KEVIN)>> NOW YOU GUYS REMEMBER TC PENNICK FROM BAY ONE CUSTOMS. WELL TC DID SUCH A KNOCK OUT JOB ON PROJECT CLASSIX THAT WE SOMEHOW MANAGED TO TALK HIM INTO COMING HERE TO THE TRUCKS SHOP AND HELPING US OUT ON SUPER DUALLY. CAUSE LIKE RYAN SAID, EVEN THOUGH 80 PERCENT OF THE BIG CHUNKS ARE ON, THE LAST 20 PERCENT TAKE 80 PERCENT OF THE TIME. IT SURE IS NICE TO HAVE A SKILLED SET OF HANDS HERE TO HELP US OUT. NOW TO FILL IN THE RIDICULOUSLY LARGE VACANCY THE FORD HEATER BOX LEFT, TC DECIDED TO USE 20 GAUGE SHEET METAL. (T/C)>> BY THE TIME THIS IS ALL CLEANED UP IT'LL LOOK A LOT LIKE THE FACTORY ROLL THAT'S AROUND ALL THE FACTORY

HOLES IN THE FIREWALL.

(KEVIN)>> THE ROLLED EDGE NOT ONLY LOOKS ORIGINAL, BUT IT ALSO BUILDS STRENGTH INTO THE METAL. THAT FITS PRETTY GOOD MAN! (T/C)>> LIKE IT WAS MADE FOR IT HUH?

(KEVIN)>> NOW T/C'S NO STRANGER TO CUSTOM WORK. IN FACT HE CAN DO JUST ABOUT ANYTHING HE SETS HIS MIND TO, AND THE FIRST ORDER OF BUSINESS WAS TO MOCK UP THE DODGE HEATER BOX IN THE FORD DASH AND FIGURE OUT WHERE THE OUTLETS GO. WITH THAT ALL DONE AND A LITTLE BIT MORE STRENGTH ROLLED INTO THE METAL, A COAT OF PAINT MAKES IT LOOK OE.

NOW YOU CAN ALWAYS FIND A WAY AROUND A TWO PERSON JOB, BUT IT'S ACTUALLY NICE TO HAVE TWO PEOPLE SOMETIMES. TO FINISH IT OFF WE'LL PUT A COAT OF SEAM SEALER AROUND THE INSIDE EDGE TO KEEP IT WEATHER PROOF. NOW THIS IS THE ORIGINAL RADIATOR FROM THE DODGE PICK UP THAT WE GOT TO DO THIS CONVERSION. THERE WAS FRONT END COLLISION DAMAGE AND FRAME REPAIR THAT NEEDED TO BE DONE, AND YOU CAN SEE SIGNS OF THAT. HERE'S THE CLUTCH FAN, HERE'S THE MARKS FROM THE BLADES, AND OBVIOUSLY IT'S GOTTEN INTO THE CORE, INTO THE VEINS, AND RIGHT HERE YOU CAN SEE THAT IT WAS ACTUALLY LEAKING. WE KNEW THIS GOING IN. NOW IT'S TIME TO GET A NEW RADIATOR. SO WE CALLED ROCK AUTO DOT COM AND GOT THIS DROP IN REPLACEMENT SINCE WE'RE USING ALL OF THE ORIGINAL DODGE COOLING MODULE. NOW THIS IS SOMETHING YOU'RE GONNA RUN INTO IF YOU'RE WORKING ON VEHICLES THAT HAVE BEEN WRECKED BEFORE, OR YOU JUST LOSE SOMETHING IN THE PROCESS OF A PROJECT THAT TAKES A LONG TIME. THIS IS A BRACKET THAT HOLDS THE INTERCOOLER INTO PLACE.

IT BOLTS IN TO THE BOTTOM OF THE CORE SUPPORT. NOW THERE'S LEFT AND RIGHT, AND THEY'RE MIRROR IMAGE. SO SINCE I DON'T HAVE ONE AND I DON'T HAVE TIME TO GO DOWN TO THE PARTS DEALERSHIP AND BUY ONE, I'M

JUST GONNA MAKE IT. THAT PROCESS IS PRETTY DARN SIMPLE. WHAT YOU DO, WELL, IT'S PRETTY OBVIOUS. YOU CAN TAKE CARDBOARD, TEMPLATE IT, AND THEN FLIP IT AROUND AND BASICALLY YOU JUST MAKE YOUR MIRROR IMAGE TO WHERE.

BETWEEN THE TWO PIECES LIKE THIS, NOW I'VE GOT MY LEFT AND MY RIGHT. SO FROM THERE DRESS IT UP FLAT ONTO SOME FLAT STOCK, USE THE DIMPLE DIE TO MAKE THE STRENGTH, VIOLA, NEW DODGE PARTS! USING A HEAVIER 18 GAUGE STEEL, WE MADE THE HOLE STRONGER USING A FLARED HOLE DIE OR A DIMPLE DIE WE PICKED UP FROM LIGHT RACING. THEN IT'S OFF TO THE BREAK TO MAKE THE BENDS. THE WHOLE TIME WE'RE PAYING ATTENTION TO OUR TEMPLATE AND CHECKING IT AGAINST JUST TO GET THE CORRECT ANGLES. NOW IF YOU DON'T HAVE BENDING BREAKS AND DIMPLE DIES YOU CAN STILL DO THIS. A BENCH VICE AND A HAMMER WILL GET YOU JUST ABOUT ANYWHERE YOU WANT TO GO. A COAT OF PAINT AND A TEST FIT SHOW US THAT THIS IS ACTUALLY GONNA WORK. VERY NICE!

(RYAN)>> OH THANK YOU.

(KEVIN)>> NOW IT FEELS PRETTY DARN GOOD TO KNOW THAT WE'VE GONE PAST THE MOCK UP PHASE AND THAT THIS IS ACTUALLY OUR FINAL FIT. OUR COOLING MODULE IS LOCKED INTO PLACE INCLUDING THE BRAND NEW RADIATOR, BUT THE RADIATOR'S NOT THE ONLY THING WE GOT FROM ROCK AUTO DOT COM. WE ALSO HAD THEM SEND US A NEW HEATER CORE AND BRAND NEW OE STYLE REPLACEMENT POWER STEERING HOSES AS WELL AS THESE MOLDED RADIATOR HOSES FROM GATES.

AND THAT'S ONE OF THE COOL THINGS ABOUT ROCK AUTO DOT COM AND OUR TRUCK. SINCE MOST OF THE DRIVETRAIN IS FACTORY DODGE RUNNING GEAR, ONE PHONE CALL TO ROCK AUTO GETS US EVERYTHING WE NEED. THE FIRST THING WE'VE GOT TO DO IS PUT THIS HEATER CORE IN BEFORE WE CAN HANG THE HVAC BOX. T/C, YOU READY? (T/C)>> YEP!

(KEVIN)>> IF YOU'VE EVER REPLACED A HEATER CORE, YOU

KNOW THAT IT'S MUCH EASIER TO DO WITH THE WHOLE HVAC BOX OUT OF THE VEHICLE.

SO THE TIMING COULDN'T BE BETTER FOR REPLACING THE

HEATER CORE IN THIS ONE. WITH THE PORTS FOR THE HOSES DRILLED AND THE MOUNTING LOCATION SECURE IN THE FIREWALL, NOW'S THE TIME TO

FINALLY HANG THE HEATER BOX, HOPEFULLY FOR THE LAST TIME. ONE FINAL TEST FIT IS PUTTING THE OLD DASH OVER TOP OF THE NEWER, MORE MODERN HEATER BOX. AND WITH A LITTLE BIT OF WIDDLING AND TRIMMING, THIS SEEMS TO FIT PRETTY GOOD TOO. NOBODY'S GONNA BE ABLE TO TELL THAT THAT'S ALL THAT MODERN STUFF UNDER THERE. (T/C)>> IT'S BEEN QUITE A BIT OF MODIFYING THERE,

BUT IT LOOKS GOOD.

(KEVIN)>> WE'LL EVEN HAVE A GLOVE BOX WON'T WE? (T/C)>> OH, WE WILL!

(KEVIN)>> COOL, COOL, COOL, NICE WORK MAN!

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO TRUCKS WHERE WE'RE BUTTONING UP SOME ODDS AND ENDS ON PROJECT SUPER DUALLY. NOW WITH THE FORD BED SITTING DOWN ON THE DODGE FRAME WE

WEREN'T ABLE TO COMPLETELY INSTALL THE FUEL TANK BECAUSE THE TOP OF THE TANK WAS HITTING THIS BED SUPPORT RAIL. AND RATHER THAN PRY OUR WALLETS OPEN AND SPEND BIG BUCKS ON A CUSTOM FUEL TANK JUST TO AVOID THIS CLEARANCE ISSUE, WE TOOK THE EASY WAY OUT. JUST MADE A RELIEF CUT IN THE SUPPORT RAIL. THEN WE'LL JUST COME IN HERE, USE THIS BEND PIECE OF SHEET

METAL, FILL IT IN, WE'LL HAVE THE CLEARANCE WE NEED AND WE CAN RUN THE STOCK TANK. NOW THIS PROJECT HERE IS METAL WORKING 101. JUST A SIMPLE PIECE OF FLAT SHEET METAL BENT TO FOLLOW THE CONTOURS THAT I'VE CUT IN THE BED RAILS, AND THEN TACK WELD IT ALL THE WAY AROUND THE PERIMETER. AND THE GREAT THING ABOUT A PROJECT LIKE THIS IS THAT IT'S ON THE UNDER SIDE OF THE BED. IF IT DOESN'T TURN OUT PERFECT, WELL NO BIG DEAL. NOW THE TOP SIDE OF THIS BED WAS ALL TAKEN CARE OF WHEN WE DID THE AUTO BODY THRASH BUT THE BOTTOM SIDE WAS KIND OF NEGLECTED. SO I'VE KNOCKED THE BIG CHUNKS OF SCALY RUST OFF WITH A WIRE BRUSH AND A SCUFF PAD. I'M GOING OVER TOP OF IT AND BRUSHING ON SOME EASTWOOD RUST CONVERTER. THAT'S GONNA TRANSFORM THIS RUST INTO A PAINTABLE SURFACE. AND ONCE IT DRIES WE CAN GO OVER THE TOP OF IT WITH SOME SORT OF BED LINER OR UNDERCOATING AND LOCK IT IN. THIS STUFF BRUSHES ON PRETTY EASILY AND YOU DON'T HAVE TO BE TOO CAREFUL. NOW ONE SPOT ON THE BED FLOOR WE DIDN'T HAVE TO TREAT WAS RIGHT HERE IN THE MIDDLE. IT WAS PRESERVED BY A LEAKY PINION SEAL THAT DIDN'T ALLOW THE METAL TO RUST.

NOW WITH THE RUST CONVERTER COMPLETELY CURED, YOU CAN SEE THAT IT'S TURNED THE BOTTOM OF THE BED FLOOR FROM RUST RED TO A BLACK COLOR, AND THAT MEANS IT'S CONVERTED THE RUST TO A

ZINK PHOSPHATE, WHICH IS SAFE TO COAT OVER TOP OF, AND THAT'S EXACTLY WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO USING THIS DUPLICOLOR BED ARMOR. NOW THIS IS THE SAME MATERIAL WE USE ON THE INSIDE OF THE BED. THIS TIME WE'RE GONNA USE IT AS AN UNDERCOATING. NOW WE COULD HAVE JUST PAINTED THE BOTTOM OF THIS BED WITH SOME SPRAY PAINT BUT UNDERCOATING NOT ONLY COVERS IMPERFECTIONS BUT IT ALSO ABSORBS IMPACTS A LITTLE BIT. SO ANY ROCK CHIPS WILL JUST DEFLECT INSTEAD OF CHIPPING OFF PAINT LEAVING EXPOSED METAL. NOW WE SPRAYED BED LINER ON THE INSIDE OF OUR FENDERS AS WELL AND THAT'LL PREVENT ANY ROCKS THAT GET THROWN UP FROM OUR TIRES FROM CAUSING DAMAGE TO THE SHEET METAL AND CAUSING A PAINT CHIP. NOW BEFORE WE DROP THE BED IN PLACE WE WANT TO MAKE OUR FINAL CONNECTIONS TO THE FUEL TANK, ELECTRICAL, AND FUEL LINES. NOW THE FUEL LINES IN THE ENGINE BAY HAVE BEEN CAPPED AND PROTECTED BUT THESE ONES BACK HERE, THEY'VE BEEN OPENED TO THE ATMOSPHERE. SO JUST IN CASE ANY DUST OR DEBRIS GOT BACK IN THE LINES, WELL YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE THEY'RE BLOWN OUT,

FLUSHED, AND CLEAN. SO WE'RE GONNA BLOW SOME PRESSURIZED AIR THROUGH

THEM AND MAKE SURE THEY'RE FLUSHED OUT. NOW DIESEL FUEL DOESN'T EVAPORATE QUITE LIKE GASOLINE DOES. LIKE I SAID, THESE HAVE BEEN OPEN FOR A WHILE, WE HOPE THERE'S NOT TOO MUCH FUEL IN THEM.

EITHER WAY THEY'VE GOT TO BE FLUSHED BEFORE WE HOOK THEM UP TO OUR KIND OF EXPENSIVE DIESEL ENGINE. [ compressed air blowing ]

(RYAN)>> THAT SHOULD DO IT.

ONE, TWO, DONE!

AND NOW WE'VE GOT ALL THE CLEARANCE WE NEED AND WE STILL GOT TO USE OUR STOCK TANK.

(KEVIN)>> HEY, WELCOME BACK TO TRUCKS. WELL NOW IT'S TIME TO START WRESTLING WITH THE WIRING HARNESS BUT WE'VE GOT A LITTLE PROBLEM TO FIX FIRST. WELL THE GOOD NEWS IS THAT THE RADIATOR AND LOCATION OF THE ENGINE IS IN THE RIGHT PLACE. ALL THE HOSES FIT AND THE BOOST TUBES, IT LOOKS LIKE

WE'RE NOT GONNA HAVE TO CHANGE OR ALTER THEM. THE BAD NEWS IS THAT THE BOOST TUBE IS HITTING MY FRESH PAINTED APRON. I HATE WHEN THAT HAPPENS. HOWEVER, THIS IS A SINGLE WALL PANEL AND YOU KNOW, A LITTLE BIT OF TRIMMING, WE CAN GET THAT FIXED, PUT SOME KIND OF AN EDGE AROUND THERE, MAKE IT LOOK NICE AND NEAT, IT'D SOLVE THE PROBLEM.

NOW SOMETIMES NO MATTER HOW MUCH PLANNING AND MOCKING UP YOU DO, YOU STILL HAVE TO DO A LITTLE BIT OF TRIMMING.

SO THAT'S WHAT WE'RE DOING HERE. NOW THE MASKING TAPE IS TO PROTECT THE PAINTED SURFACE WHILE I BRING MY SAW AROUND THE CORNER. KEEP THIS IN MIND, YOU CAN ALWAYS CUT MORE OFF.

I'M TRIMMING THE BARE MINIMUM HERE HOPING I CAN GET BY. IF NOT, I CAN TRIM SOME MORE. IT'S A LOT HARDER TO PUT IT BACK. AND OBVIOUSLY I NEED A LITTLE MORE SPACE.

ONE OF THE GREAT THINGS ABOUT THAT GIANT TRUCK THAT WE'RE WORKING ON IS THAT WE DIDN'T REALLY HAVE TO DISASSEMBLE ANYTHING TO HAVE ENOUGH CLEARANCE AND ROOM TO MAKE THE CUTS WE NEEDED. ON SMALLER VEHICLES THIS WOULDN'T HAVE BEEN THE CASE, BUT WE KIND OF LUCKED OUT HERE. THE BOOST TUBES AND THE COUPLERS ARE STOCK AND

THEY'RE IN GREAT SHAPE. SO THEY'RE STILL TIGHT. A MATCO RADIATOR HOSE TOOL REALLY DOES THE TRICK WHEN WE'RE REASSEMBLING.

WELL THAT GIVES ME THE CLEARANCE THAT I NEED, A LITTLE PIECE OF VACUUM LINE ON THIS HARD EDGE, WE'RE DONE.

(RYAN)>> NOW BACK WHEN WE DISASSEMBLED OUR DONOR DODGE PICK UP TRUCK, WE WERE SMART ENOUGH TO LABEL A LOT OF THE CONNECTORS ON THE HARNESS AND LABEL WHERE THE HARNESS LAYS OUT IN THE ENGINE BAY. BUT WE DIDN'T LABEL EVERYTHING, AND WE WANTED TO MAKE SURE WE'VE GOT IT CORRECT. SO WE BROUGHT IN THIS '94 DODGE. IT'S VIRTUALLY STOCK TO USE AS A REFERENCE. NOW ENGINEERS SPEND A LOT OF TIME LAYING THE HARNESS OUT IN THE ENGINE BAY SO IT DOESN'T REST ON ANYTHING HOT OR HIT ANYTHING THAT MOVES. SO WE WANTED TO MIMIC THAT AND SAVE OURSELVES ANY POTENTIAL HEADACHES IN THE FUTURE. (T/C)>> FOR ME TO SIMPLIFY IT A LITTLE BIT, IS I START WITH WHAT I KNOW AND THEN YOU JUST WORK YOUR WAY OUT FROM THERE. NOW AS YOU GO ALONG, YOU'LL FIND YOUR HEADLIGHT ENDS, YOUR ALTERNATOR WIRING, AND YOU CAN LAY IT OUT. AND THE MORE YOU INSTALL THE EASIER IT GETS BECAUSE EVERY LINE, EVERY WIRE'S DEDICATED TO A CERTAIN SPOT.

(KEVIN)>> HEY WELCOME BACK TO TRUCKS. WELL IT FEELS GREAT TO HAVE PROJECT SUPER DUALLY SO CLOSE

TO BEING A FUNCTIONAL VEHICLE AGAIN. ONE OF THE LAST DETAILS THAT WERE DOING ON THIS TRUCK TO MAKE IT A COMPLETE VEHICLE IS TO LAY THE DODGE WIRING HARNESS, THE WHOLE THING, INSIDE THE FORD BODY, WHICH

IS A SOLUTION IN ITSELF. HOWEVER IT DOES CREATE A COUPLE OF PROBLEMS AND A COUPLE OF CHALLENGES. HERE'S WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT. NOW THIS IS THE ORIGINAL '79 FORD GAUGE CLUSTER OUT OF THE CAB THAT WE'VE GOT. NOW IT'S OBVIOUSLY A CHALLENGE TO GET ALL OF THESE GAUGES TO READ THE SENDERS FROM THE DODGE, ESPECIALLY SINCE IT'S A COMPUTERIZED VEHICLE AND THE FORD WAS NOT, ESPECIALLY WHEN IT COMES TO THE SPEEDOMETER. THIS IS A MECHANICAL SPEEDOMETER, OUR DODGE HAS AN ELECTRONIC SPEEDOMETER. NOW I GUESS YOU COULD USE PART OF THE FORD WIRING HARNESS TO SPLICE IN AND READ YOUR SCHEMATICS, AND I'M SURE SOMEBODY OUT THERE HAS DONE THAT. HOWEVER IT JUST MAKES THAT MUCH MORE SENSE TO USE THE DODGE CLUSTER, ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU CONSIDER THAT THERE'S TWO MULTIPIN CONNECTORS THAT AUTOMATICALLY CONNECT ALL THESE SENDERS AND GAUGES TOGETHER INCLUDING THE SPEEDOMETER, MAKING IT JUST A SHOEIN, ESPECIALLY SINCE WE'RE USING, LIKE WE SAID, THE ENTIRE DODGE HARNESS. NOW MOUNTING THIS INTO THE FORD DASH, WELL THAT'S A BIT OF A CHALLENGE AND THAT'S WHERE GOOD OLE FASHIONED HOT RODDING COMES INTO PLAY. HERE'S SOMETHING I WANTED TO SHOW YOU AND THE WAY WE SOLVED THAT PROBLEM. PLASTICS OF SOME KIND HAVE ALWAYS BEEN USED IN VEHICLE CONSTRUCTION. AS VEHICLES HAVE GOTTEN NEWER, THE COMPOSITE AND PLASTIC CONTENT HAS GOTTEN GREATER. CASE IN POINT, THIS IS THE BEZEL FROM THE GAUGE CLUSTER OF THE DODGE TRUCK, WHICH WE TRIMMED FROM THIS PIECE HERE. THE TRUTH IS MOST OF THE INTERIOR OFF THAT '97 DODGE WAS MADE OUT OF THIS PLASTIC. SO WE WANT TO TAKE THE CLUSTER AND INSTALL IT IN THE FORD DASH. WELL THE FORD DASH IS MOSTLY METAL, AND YOU KNOW YOU CAN'T TAKE A MIG WELDER AND WELD UP METAL TO THE PLASTIC. SO THERE'S YOUR CHALLENGE. HOW DO YOU JOIN THESE TWO PIECES TOGETHER? WELL THERE'S AN ANSWER FOR THAT. IF YOU REMEMBER THE SECOND CHANCE SILVERADO, WE LITERALLY GLUED ON ONE OF THE BED SIDES WHEN WE DID THAT VEHICLE. IT'S CALLED PANEL BONDING ADHESIVES, AND THEY'RE JUST AS STRONG AS A WELD IF YOU PREP IT CORRECTLY. THIS IS A PBA THAT WE'RE USING. THIS IS AN ORTON'S SPEED GRIP. THIS HAS GOT A 40 MINUTES SET TIME, FLOWS OUT NICELY, AND IT DOESN'T EVEN MATTER WHAT BRAND. THERE'S ALL KINDS OF BRANDS AND OPTIONS FOR YOU, AND LITERALLY THIS IS WHAT WE DID. I USED A COMBINATION OF MIG WELDING AND BONDING ADHESIVES. WELDING WHEN I HAD A METAL TO METAL JOINT, BONDING ADHESIVES WITH A PLASTIC TO METAL JOINT, AND IT CREATES A COMBINATION

OF THE TWO THAT IS PERMANENT, ATTRACTIVE, AND VERY STRONG.

NOW THIS IS THE SIMPLEST OF TECHNIQUES. LITERALLY USE A BOLT THROUGH A HOLE ON SOME 20 GAUGE. TACK THE END, GRIND THE HEAD OFF, MAKE A NICE FLANGE, AND

IT ALLOWS ME TO NOW MOUNT MY SWITCH PLATE AND HOUSE THE HVAC CONTROLS. NOW OVER ON THIS SIDE WE HOUSE THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH, WHICH IS SCREWED IN FROM THE BACK SIDE OF THE DODGE TRUCK. SO I JUST USED A MEASURING TAPE, MADE A FLANGE HERE, SOME BASIC SHEET METAL BENDING SKILLS.

WELDED IT TOGETHER, UTILIZED THE HOLES THAT ARE IN THE EXISTING SWITCH, AND NOW IT'S REMOVABLE AND PERMANENTLY INSTALLED. NOW FOR THE CLUSTER I'VE GOT A SIMPLE TAB ON EITHER SIDE ON THE BOTTOM THAT JUST HOLDS IT IN PLACE, AND IT GETS BOLTED IN AT THE TOP HERE AND HERE.

WHAT YOU HAVE IS A FINISHED REMOVABLE CLUSTER WITH ALL THE CONTROLS THAT WE NEED. NOW AS FUN AS THIS LOOKS HERE, IT LOOKS EVEN COOLER IN THE VEHICLE. NOW WITH THE DASH CLUSTER IN PLACE, YOU CAN KIND OF SEE HOW THIS IS STARTING TO PLAY OUT. IT LOOKS LIKE IT'S SUPPOSED TO LOOK. THE DASH PAD COVERS ABOUT A THIRD OF IT, SOME EXPOSED FASTENERS WILL BE VERY FORGIVING, AND IT LOOKS LIKE IT BELONGS THERE, AND EVERYTHING IS GOING TO WORK JUST LIKE THE CHRYSLER ENGINEERS HAD INTENDED IT TO

WORK, DOWN TO THE CRUISE CONTROL BUTTONS AND THORNS. HECK WE COULD EVEN PUT AN AIR BAD IN THERE IF WE WANTED TO. BUT HERE'S THE REAL MESSAGE HERE. DON'T BE AFRAID TO TRY STUFF. TRY SOME ADHESIVES, TRY SOME WELDING TECHNIQUES, BREAK OUT YOUR FAB EQUIPMENT. THIS IS NOT THAT DIFFICULT. ALL IT TAKES IS THINKING IT THROUGH AND FOLLOWING THROUGH WITH YOUR THOUGHTS, IT'S HOT RODDING.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, IF YOU WANT A NOSTALGIC LOOK ON TOP OF THE SMALL BLOCK INSIDE YOUR OLD MUSCLE CAR OR VINTAGE TRUCK, YOU NEED TO CHECK OUT THE EDELBROCK RAM LOCK MANIFOLD THAT ARE AVAILABLE IN SIX OR THREE CARB SETUPS. NOW THEY OBVIOUSLY INCLUDE THE BASE MANIFOLD AS WELL AS THE THROTTLE LINKAGE TO KEEP THINGS SIMPLE AND EASY. NOW THE KIT ALSO INCLUDES SIX INDIVIDUAL EDELBROCK 94 TWO BARREL CARBURETORS THAT COME WITH THEIR OWN LITTLE AIR FILTER AND CHROME CAP. AND THIS WILL GIVE YOU THE NOSTALGIC LOOK YOU'RE AFTER WITHOUT THE HASSLE OF HAVING TO TRACK DOWN AND REBUILD SIX ANTIQUE CARBURETORS. PLUS THIS STUFF'S MADE RIGHT HERE IN THE USA. GUYS, THANKS FOR WATCH TRUCKS, SEE YOU NEXT WEEK.
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