MuscleCar Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

Bilstein
Shock, Heavy-Duty, Monotube, Front, Buick, Chevy, Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Each
Bilstein
Shock/Strut, Heavy-Duty, Monotube, Rear, Buick, Chevy, Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Each
Coker Tire
Tire, Silvertown Radial, 205/75-14, Redline, S Speed Rating, 1,532 lbs. Max Load, DOT-Approved, Each
Dupli-Color
Paint, Brake Caliper Paint, Satin, Black, 11 oz., Aerosol Cleaner, 8.5 oz. Brush-On Paint, Kit
QA1
Coil-Over Shock, Proma Star, Twin-Tube, 17.000 in. Extended, 11.625 in. Collapsed, Bearing/Bearing, Each
Royal Purple
Motor Oil, Multi-Grade, Synthetic, 10W30, Quart, Each
Summit Racing
Fitting, Tip Over Valve, Aluminum, Red/Blue, -8 AN Bulkhead, with Filter, Each
Coker Tire
PR147, Pontiac Rallye II - 14x7
Matco Tools
BTSG10 10 Piece Brake Tool Set
O'Reilly Auto Parts
Antifreeze/Coolant OReilly - Engine Coolant / Anti-Freeze Universal Concentrated
RockAuto.com
Brake Drum, New
RockAuto.com
Brake Shoe Set, New
RockAuto.com
Drum Brake Hardware Kit
RockAuto.com
Drum Brake Self Adjuster Kit
RockAuto.com
Drum Brake Self Adjuster Repair Kit
RockAuto.com
Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder
RockAuto.com
Drum Brake Wheel Cyliner Repair Kit
Time Wise
Timewise 825 Electronic Speedometer,The Timewise 825 electronic speedometer meets the strict size and appearance guidelines for use in The Great Race antique vehicle transcontinental rally extravaganza.
Victory Lap
Fits most 1975-2000 Hyundai, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Chrysler vehicles with Mitsubishi starter with a 61mm long drive
Victory Lap
Solenoid Repair kit that fits 1972-2008 import and domestic vehicles with Nip. OSGR starters -- including Acura, Chrysler, Diahatsu, Geo, Honda

Episode Transcript

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY ON MUSCLE CAR, WE'RE PULLING BACK ON THE REINS TO TOSS OUT SOME ENTRY LEVEL HOW TO. THAT OLD CAR OUT IN YOUR GARAGE, WE'LL SHOW YOU HOW

TO GET IT TO START, KEEP IT RUNNING, AND MAKE SURE IT STOPS.

ALL THAT JUST IN CASE YOU WANT TO RACE.

(TOMMY)>> YOU KNOW, LONG AGO BEFORE CARS LIKE PROJECT BUSINESS TIME WERE RUNNING AROUND SCARING UP TROUBLE, THERE WAS A WHOLE OTHER BREED OF THROTTLE JUNKIES RUNNING AROUND THE NATION. BEFORE ANYONE HAD HEARD THE TERM MUSCLE CAR, THERE WERE PLENTY OF PEOPLE RIDING AROUND IN '55 CHEVYS AND MODELA'S. THERE'S A WHOLE OTHER WORLD OF CAR ENTHUSIASTS THAT PRECEED THE MUSCLE EAR. WELL IF YOU'RE LUCKY ENOUGH TO LIVE THROUGH THOSE GOOD OLE DAYS, OR YOU FIND YOURSELF TWO YEARS OR 50 YEARS BORN TOO LATE, THERE'S SOME GOOD NEWS. CORKY COKER OF COKER TIRE HAS BROUGHT BACK AN AMERICAN TRADITION, AND HE'S OPENED IT UP TO A FEW OF HIS MUSCULAR FRIENDS.

2,300 MILES, DOZENS OF HISTORIC CARS, AND ALMOST $120,000 BIG ONES IN PRIZE MONEY UP FOR GRABS. THAT'S WHAT BRINGS RACERS FROM ALL AROUND THE GLOBE TO COMPETE IN THE GREAT RACE, AND THE POWERBLOCK IS A PROUD SPONSOR. FIRST RUN IN 1983, THE GREAT RACE IS A TEST OF ENDURANCE AND ACCURACY, PITTING A TEAM OF DRIVER AND NAVIGATOR

AGAINST OTHER COMPETITORS OVER A SEVEN DAY STRETCH. AND IT'S NOT ALL ABOUT SPEED, WITH THE WINNER IN EACH CLASS BEING DETERMINED BY WHO FINISHES THE COURSE WITH THE CLOSEST TIME TO WHAT THE RALLY MASTER SETS. TRADITIONALLY THE RACE HAS ALWAYS BEEN RUN WITH CARS THAT WERE BUILT BEFORE THE MUSCLE ERA. IN 2011 CORKY COKER TOOK OVER THE REINS, AND NOW HAS OPENED UP THE COMPETITION TO CARS BUILT THROUGH 1969. AND YOU KNOW WHAT THAT MEANS, A WHOLE MESS OF MUSCLE CARS. ( )>> WHOO!

(TOMMY)>> BUT DON'T THINK JUST BECAUSE YOU'RE ROLLING IN A '69 BOSS MUSTANG THAT YOU'RE GONNA BEAT UP ON THE OLD TIMERS WITH SUPERIOR TECHNOLOGY. NEWER CARS HAVE BEEN GIVEN A HANDICAP TO EVEN OUT THE PLAYING FIELD. AND IN 2011 THIS RACE WAS WON BY A 100 YEAR OLD CAR, A 1911 VELIE DRIVEN BY HOWARD AND DOUGLAS SHARP. THIS YEAR'S EVENT STARTING IN TRAVERSE CITY, MICHIGAN, WILL BE AROUND THE GREAT LAKES COVERING 19 CITIES, TWO COUNTRIES, AND FOUR STATES, WITH THE END TARGET BEING DEARBORN, MICHIGAN, FOR A GRAND TOTAL OF RIGHT AT 2,300 MILES. THIS MAY NOT BE YOUR FOOT TO THE FLOOR, DRIVESHAFT TWISTING TYPE OF RACING, BUT IT'S COMPETITIVE AND IT'S A TEST FOR THESE OLD CARS TO KEEP UP.

(GREG)>> WE'VE GOT A BROKEN DISTRIBUTOR CAP. SO WE'RE GONNA SNAKE OUR FINGERS IN HERE AND TRY TO SWAP IT OUT.

(TOMMY)>> IN FACT THE RACERS HAVE A MOTTO, DRIVE, REPAIR, REPEAT. YOUR RIDE BETTER HAVE ROOM FOR A TOOL KIT UNLESS YOU WANT TO GO HOME EARLY. MOST TEAMS WIND UP SPENDING SOME QUALITY TIME UNDER THE HOOD AS WELL AS ON THE ROAD. SO NOW THAT YOU KNOW, THAT OLD IMPALA OR SATELLITE YOU'VE GOT SITTING IN THE GARAGE CAN BE A PART OF SOME FUN. SOME OF YOU MAY BE THINKING ABOUT GIVING IT A GO. YOU CAN SPEND SOME TIME WITH SOME KIN FOLK OR A GOOD BUDDY, SEE A PART OF THE COUNTRY YOU'VE NEVER SEEN BEFORE, AND DO SOMETHING THAT WE'RE ALWAYS TALKING ABOUT. GET OUT AND DRIVE THAT OLD CAR CAUSE THAT'S WHAT THEY WERE BUILT TO DO, BUT FIRST YOU MIGHT WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT OLD THING AIN'T GONNA PLAY OPOSSUM ON YOU.

(ANNOUNCER)>> LIKE WHAT YOU SAW? UP NEXT A FORMER WINNER OF THE GREAT RACE SHOWS US THE ROPERS WHEN IT COMES TO RACE PREP, AND TOMMY DRUMS UP SOME OLD SCHOOL BRAKE TECH.

(TOMMY)>> NOW THAT WE'VE LET YOU IN ON WHAT THE GREAT RACE

IS ALL ABOUT, WE CAN SHOW YOU WHAT IT TAKES TO MAKE AN OLD CAR A CONTENDER AT THIS STYLE OF EVENT. SO Y'ALL SAY HELLO TO GREG CUNNINGHAM, THE SHOP MANAGER

FROM HONEST CHARLEY'S IN CHATTANOOGA, TENNESSEE.

GREG, TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT THE CAR.

(GREG)>> WE HAVE A MOSTLY ORIGINAL '65 PONTIAC GTO,

389 TRIPOWER WITH A FOUR SPEED TRANSMISSION.

(TOMMY)>> WELL I KNOW ONE THING, IF YOU WERE GOING FOR A FACTORY LOOK, THOSE WHEELS AREN'T CORRECT FOR THIS BAD BOY.

(GREG)>> WHAT WE NEED TO PUT ON THIS CAR TO MAKE IT LOOK ORIGINAL ARE THESE BFG RED LINE RADIALS AND PONTIAC RALLY TWO'S AVAILABLE THROUGH COKER TIRE. THE GREAT RACE REQUIRES THAT THE WHEELS ARE PERIOD CORRECT, BUT YOU CAN RUN RADIAL TIRES WITHOUT PENALTY.

(TOMMY)>> SO LETS GO AHEAD AND SNATCH THOSE OTHER ONES OFF AND THEN WE CAN DO SOME INSPECTION TO SEE IF THERE'S ANY ISSUES WE NEED TO TAKE CARE OF.

THE FIRST THING I'M GONNA DO IS HIT THESE OLD SHOCKS UNDERNEATH HERE. NOW THIS SHOCK IS JUST A PARTS STORE REPLACEMENT. IF IT WAS THE ORIGINAL SHOCK THAT WOULD HAVE COME ON THE CAR NEW, IT WOULD BE WORTH HOLDING ON TO. BUT SINCE IT'S NOT, WE'RE JUST GONNA CHUCK IT. WE'LL REPLACE THEM WITH A SET OF BILSTEIN HEAVY DUTY MONOTUBE SHOCKS. THIS'LL GIVE YOU GOOD HANDLING AND STABILITY WITHOUT SACRIFICING RIDE COMFORT. BEFORE WE BROUGHT THE CAR INTO THE SHOP, WE TESTED THE BRAKES AND THEY SEEM TO WORK PRETTY WELL. SO AFTER A VISUAL INSPECTION, WE DON'T HAVE ANY SIGNS OF ANY LEAKS. SO I THINK WE'RE OKAY. BUT WE WANTED TO LET YOU IN ON A LITTLE MORE INFO REGARDING DRUM BRAKES, BUT THAT'S GONNA HAVE TO COME LATER IN THE SHOW.

(GREG)>> PARTS LIKE BELTS, SHOCKS, AND CLUTCHES ARE

CONSIDERED CONSUMABLE PARTS. THAT MEANS THEY'RE MEANT TO WEAR OUT AND BE REPLACED. ALL CARS, NOT JUST MUSCLE CARS, ARE FULL OF THESE PARTS. WHEN YOU TAKE YOUR CAR ON A WEEK LONG COMPETITIVE DRIVE, YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE YOU'RE NOT LEFT ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD BECAUSE ONE OF THESE PARTS WERE WORN OUT BEFORE HAND AND YOU DIDN'T DEAL WITH IT. WE'RE GONNA TAKE A MOMENT TO GO OVER OUR HOSES, COOLANT, TRANSMISSION FLUID, AND ENGINE OIL. IN ADDITION TO THAT, WE'RE GONNA CHECK AND SEE HOW OUR POINTS LOOK ALONG WITH THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND SEE IF OUR FILTERS ARE UP TO SNUFF. THIS IS WHY WE LOOK AT ALL THIS STUFF. THERE'S A SPOT ON THIS BELT THAT I CAN DIG MY NAIL INTO. WE BETTER REPLACE THIS SO IT DOESN'T BITE US IN THE BUTT.

(TOMMY)>> IN ADDITION TO THAT, HAVING SPARE PARTS IN THE TRUNK'S NOT A BAD IDEA ALONG WITH A SET OF TOOLS AND A FIRST AID KIT FOR JUST IN CASE. SOME OTHER STUFF YOU MAY WANT TO MAKE SURE YOU TOSS IN IS SOME EXTRA OIL, COOLANT, JACK, LUG WRENCH, AND IT'S NOT A BAD IDEA TO MAKE SURE YOU'VE GOT SOME AIR IN THAT OLD SPARE TIRE. THIS CAR'S OVER 45 YEARS OLD, LETS SEE WHAT KIND OF SHAPE THE CLUTCH IS IN. [ engine firing up ] WELL OUR CLUTCH DOESN'T ENGAGE UNTIL THE PEDAL'S ALMOST ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP, AND THAT MEANS TWO THINGS. THE CLUTCH HAS GOT SOME WEAR, AND TWO WE NEED TO ADJUST IT. THAT WAY IF WE GET A LITTLE ROWDY WITH IT, IT WON'T LEAVE US STRANDED CAUSE A SLOPPY CLUTCH IS A SLIPPY CLUTCH, AND THAT JUST AIN'T GOOD. THIS CAR'S PROBABLY GOT THE MOST SIMPLE CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT SETUP YOU'LL FIND. THIS ADJUSTER ROD MOVES BACKWARDS WHEN YOU DEPRESS THE

PEDAL, WHICH LEVERAGES THE CLUTCH FORK INSIDE THE BELL HOUSING, AND SEPARATES THE CLUTCH DISC FROM THE PRESSURE PLATE, WHICH ALLOWS IT TO SLIP AND EVERYTHING FROM THE TRANSMISSION INPUT SHAFT AND BACK TO STOP SPINNING. NOW SOMETIMES YOU CAN GET A LITTLE MORE LIFE OUT OF YOUR CLUTCH DISC BY REPOSITIONING THE CLUTCH FORK TO ALLOW THE PRESSURE PLATE TO APPLY MORE PRESSURE TO THE DISC. YOU CAN DO THAT ON THIS CAR BY TURNING YOUR ADJUSTMENT NUT IN THE DIRECTION THAT PUSHES THE OUTSIDE OF THE FORK TOWARDS THE FRONT OF THE CAR. WELL THAT OUGHT TO KEEP THE CLUTCH PEDAL FROM BEING THE SMELL FUNNY PEDAL IF YOU DECIDE TO GET

IN IT A LITTLE BIT. AND THERE'S ONE MORE THING YOU CAN USE TO BE MORE COMPETITIVE AT THIS SPORT. IT'S CALLED A TIME WIND SPEEDOMETER. GREG, TELL ME A LITTLE MORE ABOUT IT.

(GREG)>> WELL THE IDEA IS THAT YOUR ORIGINAL SPEEDOMETER'S USUALLY ONLY ACCURATE TO ABOUT A MILE PER HOUR. SO SINCE THE GREAT RACE IS ABOUT STAYING ON TIME THROUGHOUT THE DAY, THE BEST WAY TO DO THAT IS BY MAKING SURE YOU'RE DRIVING AT EXACTLY THE ASSIGNED SPEED. INSTALLING ONE OF THESE ISN'T THAT BAD. WE FABRICATED A BRACKET TO MOUNT IT TO THE STEERING COLUMN. THEN WE'D RUN A SENSOR DOWN TO THE FRONT DRIVER'S SIDE WHEEL WHERE WE MOUNT IT TO THE BACKING PLATE. THEN WE EPOXY TWO MAGNETS ON OPPOSITE ENDS OF THE WHEEL. AFTER THAT WE CONNECT THE SPEEDOMETER TO POWER AND IT'S READY TO BE CALIBRATED. TO CALIBRATE IT THE RALLY MASTER GIVES YOU A CERTAIN TIME IT SHOULD TAKE TO DRIVE BETWEEN TWO POINTS AT A GIVEN SPEED. AND THEN YOU MAKE THE TRIP AND ADJUST THE SPEEDOMETER TO COMPENSATE FOR THE DIFFERENCE.

(TOMMY)>> WITH THAT INSTALLED YOU'RE PRETTY MUCH READY TO HIT THE STARTING LINE AND ROLL LIKE THEY DID BACK IN THE DAY WHEN THESE THINGS WERE NEW. A SPECIAL THANKS TO GREG CUNNINGHAM AND COKER TIRE FOR SHOWING US THE ROPES OF THIS STYLE RACING. HEY MAN, LETS TAKE THIS DUDE FOR A SPIN. YOU BETTER GET IN IF YOU'RE GONNA RIDE WITH ME.

(ANNOUNCER)>> IT'S BUDGET REBUILD MANIA AS TOMMY SHOWS US HOW YOU CAN SAVE BIG MONEY ON A SUPER

SIMPLE STARTER REBUILD. THEN IT'S ONWARD TO SOME MORE HOW TO TECH WITH A LOOK AT DRUM BRAKES.

(TOMMY)>> HEY GUYS, IF YOU'VE BEEN WATCHING OUR SHOW LIKE YOU SHOULD, YOU KNOW WE'VE BEEN HAMMERING ON OUR BIG PROJECTS PRETTY HARD. OUR OLDS HURST TRIBUTE CAR IS INCHING CLOSER TO THE NEXT STAGE BUT IT'S STILL GOT SOME METAL MODS LEFT THAT WE WANT TO DO TO IT BEFORE WE CAN START ON THE REST OF THE CAR. AND OUR PRO STREET DODGE DART, PROJECT BUSINESS TIME, IS WAITING ON A POWER PLANT AFTER WE DANG NEAR CUT THE THING IN HALF AND BURNED IN A CAGE. SOME OF THIS STUFF WE'VE BEEN DOING LATELY HAS BEEN PRETTY HIGH ON THE FABRICATION SIDE OF THINGS, BUT NOT EVERYBODY'S GONNA BE CUTTING THE CAR IN TWO AND SLAPPING IN THE BLOWER. SO TODAY WE'RE GONNA GET DOWN TO SOMETHING A LITTLE MORE NUT

AND BOLTY, AND DO A CHORE THAT JUST ABOUT ANYBODY CAN DO AT HOME. TAKE A LOOK AT THIS RIGHT HERE. THIS IS AN OFFSET GEAR REDUCTION STARTER THAT WAS MANUFACTURED BY NIPPON DENSO. WE PULLED IT OFF THE 360 THAT CAME OUT OF OUR DART BECAUSE IT WAS RUNNING A LATE MODEL FIVE SPEED. THESE THINGS ARE TOUGHER THAN A HICKORY STICK, AND TYPICALLY THEY LAST THROUGH YEARS AND YEARS OF SERVICE. AND WHENEVER THEY DO GO OUT, 90 PERCENT OF THE TIME IT'S JUST THE SOLENOID THAT'S BAD. THESE ARE A LITTLE MORE RARE OF ANIMAL THAN SOMETHING LIKE AN OLD SMALL BLOCK CHEVROLET STARTER. SO IF YOU FIND YOURSELF SHELLING FOR ONE OF THESE, EXPECT TO SPEND AT LEAST $150 BUCKS. THE GOOD NEWS IS YOU CAN SAVE YOURSELF A LOAD CASH. THIS IS A SOLENOID REPAIR KIT THAT WE GOT FROM VICTORY LAP. SO FOR ABOUT $20 BUCKS AND 30 MINUTES OF YOUR TIME YOU CAN GET THIS THING UP AND WORKING LIKE A CHAMP.

(ANNOUNCER)>> BUILD ON A BUDGET, MUSCLE CAR PROJECTS THAT SAVE YOU TIME AND MONEY.

(TOMMY)>> DISASSEMBLY IS PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWARD. THREE BOLTS HOLD THE SOLENOID COVER ON, FOLLOWED BY A COUPLE OF NUTS THAT TAKE CARE OF THE ISOLATOR TERMINAL.

THEN WE CAN POP OFF THE CAR, SPIN THE NUTS OFF THE TERMINALS, AND THEN PULL OUT THE PLUNGER.

PAY ATTENTION TO HOW THIS STUFF COMES OFF BECAUSE IT HAS TO GO BACK ON IN THE REVERSE ORDER. LOOKS LIKE THE CONTACT SURFACE OF SOLENOID IS BURNT CAUSE THIS DEFINITELY WAS A PROBLEM. THE KIT'S GOT A FRESH SET OF CONTACTS IN IT. SO WE'LL PLUG THOSE INTO PLACE, SPIN THE NUTS BACK ON,

SNUG THEM DOWN, THEN FASTEN THE CONNECTING LUG DOWN.

YOU SEE A SOLENOID WORKS PRETTY SIMPLY. A KEY TURN ENERGIZES THIS POST, WHICH ACTIVATES THE ELECTROMAGNET IN THE PLUNGER.

THE PLUNGER ACTUATES AND CREATES A CIRCUIT WITH THESE TWO TERMINALS, WHICH ACTIVATES THE STARTER AND ENGAGES THE BENDIX GEAR INTO THE FLYWHEEL. NOW WE CAN RUN THE COVER BACK ON AND RECONNECT THE ISOLATOR TERMINAL. AND THEN SNUG IT UP. WELL THAT WAS ABOUT THE EASIEST $130 BUCKS I'VE EVER SAVED, BUT IF BY CHANCE THE STARTER ITSELF WAS BAD, VICTORY LAP OFFERS A REBUILD KIT TO REPLACE THE GUTS IN THIS BAD BOY TOO.

(ANNOUNCER)>> LIKE SAVING MONEY, WELL WE'VE GOT A BUNCH OF BRAKE REBUILD TID BITS STILL AHEAD!

(TOMMY)>> HEY GUYS, YOU KNOW PEOPLE HAVE A WHOLE LOT OF

DIFFERENT IDEAS WHEN IT COMES TO WHAT THEY LIKE ABOUT A CAR.

FOR EXAMPLE, THIS IS THE FRAME OUT FROM UNDER OUR OLDSMOBILE. NOW WITH THAT CAR WE'RE GOING WITH A LITTLE MORE OF A MODERN FEEL, AND THANKS TO ART MORRISON WE UPGRADED TO AN AFTERMARKET CHASSIS. BUT LETS SAY YOU'RE GOING MORE IN THE DIRECTION OF RESTORATION. THAT WOULD MEAN YOU WOULD HAVE TO FRESHEN UP

THESE 40 YEAR OLD BRAKES. GM PUT A BAGILLION OF THESE THINGS ON ALL KIND OF DIFFERENT VEHICLES. AND CHANCES ARE IF YOU'VE GOT AN OLD CAR, YOU'VE GOT

A SIMILAR SETUP SITTING IN YOUR DRIVE WAY.

SO LETS TAKE A LOOK AND SEE WHAT IT'S GONNA TAKE TO REVIVE THESE OLD BRAKES, SAVE SOME CASH AT THE SAME TIME. NOW WITH THE BRAKE DRUM OFF, YOU CAN DO A QUICK VISUAL INSPECTION TO SEE WHAT KIND OF SHAPE YOU'RE IN. APPARENTLY THERE'S SOME FLUID LEAKING FROM SOMEWHERE AND YOU CAN SEE WHERE IT'S BEEN TOSSING THE GREASE UP ONTO THE SHOES. NEEDLESS TO SAY, GREASE ON YOUR BRAKING SURFACE ISN'T THE BEST SITUATION TO BE IN. YOU COULD JUST REPLACE THE BRAKE SHOES, BUT THAT'S NOT REALLY GONNA FIX THE PROBLEM. LOOK HERE YOU CAN SEE THE CUP ON OUR WHEEL CYLINDER IS WET. SO THAT MEANS IT'S LEAKING. ONLY OTHER OPTION FOR FLUID IS TO BE LEAKING OUT OF THE AXLE SEAL. IF IT WAS LEAKING IT'D BE ALL NASTY UNDER HERE. BUT SINCE OURS IS DRY, WE DON'T HAVE TO MAKE THAT REPAIR. WITH A LEAKING WHEEL CYLINDER THE FLUID IS BYPASSING THE PISTON AND THE CUP. YOU DON'T WANT THIS CAUSE YOU COULD FIND YOURSELF RIDING DOWN THE ROAD AND NEEDING TO CALL ON THE BRAKES AND FINDING YOURSELF WITHOUT ANY. EVEN THOUGH YOU SEE DISC BRAKES MORE OFTEN THAN YOU SEE DRUM BRAKES ON NEW CARS, DRUM BRAKES ARE A MORE COMPLICATED DESIGN.

THE BRAKE CYLINDER PUSHES OUT THE SHOES AGAINST THE INSIDE OF THE DRUM CREATING FRICTION WHICH SLOWS THE CAR DOWN. NOW WITH A LEAKY WHEEL CYLINDER, IF YOU WERE WORKING ON SOMETHING KINDA ODD AND YOU HAD TO BUY A NEW ONE, THEY CAN GET A LITTLE EXPENSIVE. BUT THE GOOD THING ABOUT THEM IS THEY ARE REBUILDABLE. WE GOT US A KIT FROM ROCK AUTO DOT COM. IT ONLY RAN US ABOUT THREE BUCKS. LET ME SHOW YOU WHAT IT TAKES TO DO IT.

FIRST I'LL PULL OFF THE BLEEDER SCREW. THEN I'LL TAKE OFF MY CUPS, PULL OUT THE GUTS, AND GET IT READY FOR THE HONE. NOW ALL THAT OLD RUST AND GRIME INSIDE OF THERE IS WHAT YOU'VE GOT TO GET OUT AND BACK SMOOTH AGAIN CAUSE WHAT HAPPENS IS THAT STUFF CORRODES, FLAKES OUT, AND GETS AGAINST THAT RUBBER CUP CAUSING IT TO LEAK. ALWAYS TRY TO USE A LOT OF THIS LUBRICATION. WHAT THAT DOES IS AS THAT HONE'S WORKING, YOU'RE ACTUALLY FLUSHING OUT ALL THAT OLD CRUD AND WASHING IT OUT OF IT. THAT LOOKS PRETTY GOOD. ANOTHER THING THAT YOU WANT TO DO IS BLOW OUT BOTH PORTS JUST

IN CASE THEY'RE CLOGGED UP.

SPRING IN, THEN THE CUP, TAKE YOUR PISTON, SLIDE IT DOWN THIS SIDE, TAKE THE OTHER ONE, TAKE THE RUBBER BOOT, PULL IT ACROSS, NOW ROLL IT INTO PLACE. MAKE SURE THE BLEEDER SCREW IS CLEAR, REINSTALL IT AND THAT'S ALL IT IS. WHILE WE'RE AT IT WE'RE GONNA GO AHEAD AND SWAP OUT THE CONSUMABLE PARTS OF THE BRAKES. ROCK AUTO DOT COM HOOKED US UP WITH A SET OF BRAKE SHOES, A HARDWARE KIT, AND A BRAKE DRUM. NOW THESE ARE ALL OEM STYLE PARTS, SO THEY'LL DROP IN PLACE NO PROBLEM. NOW WHEN YOU GO TO INSTALL THE SHOES, THERE'S A FORWARD AND A REAR, A LONG OR A SHORT, AND THIS REFERS TO THE LENGTH OF THE PIN. MAKE SURE THAT THE LONGER ONE GOES TO THE FRONT.

WE'RE READY TO INSTALL OUR DRUM, AND WE WENT AHEAD AND ORDERED A NEW JUST IN CASE. AND IT'S A GOOD THING WE DID, LET ME SHOW YOU WHY.

YOU CAN HAVE A USED DRUM TURNED, WHICH MEANS THEY MACHINE THE PAD CONTACT INSIDE THE DRUM, BUT THIS STAMPING RIGHT HERE TELLS YOU WHAT THE MAXIMUM DIAMETER OF THE INSIDE OF THE DRUM CAN BE BEFORE IT HAS TO BE REPLACED. IF YOU EXCEED THAT IT MAKES THE DRUM PRONE TO CRACKING OR WARPING. IF YOU CARRY IT TO ONE OF YOUR LOCAL BRAKE SHOPS AND THEY CAN MEASURE IT FOR YOU. AND THIS ONE'S WORN PAST THE POINT THAT IT CAN BE REUSED SAFELY. SO IT LOOKS LIKE WE'LL BE ROCKING A NEW BRAKE DRUM. LAST THING TO DO IS TAKE EITHER A BRAKE SPOON OR A FLAT BLADE SCREW DRIVER AND ADJUST HOW TIGHT THE SHOES ARE UP AGAINST THE DRUM. YOU STICK THE TOOL IN THE ADJUSTMENT SLOT ON THE INSIDE OF THE BACKING PLATE AND USE IT TO ROTATE THE ADJUSTER. YOU WANT TO SPIN IT IN THE DIRECTION THAT MOVES THE SHOES OUTWARD AGAINST THE DRUM UNTIL THEY'RE JUST FLIRTING WITH IT. THAT WAY YOUR DRUM STILL SPINS AND YOU'VE GOT OPTIMAL BRAKING POWER. TOO TIGHT AND YOU'LL BURN UP THE SHOES. TOO LOOSE, YOU WON'T BE ANY BETTER OFF THAN WHAT YOU STARTED WITH. I'M GONNA TOP IT OFF WITH A COAT OF DUPLICOLOR CALIPER PAINT. THAT'LL HELP PROTECT IT AND MAKE IT LOOK REAL NICE.

THAT'S ABOUT ALL THE TIME WE'VE GOT FOR TODAY. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT WHAT YOU'VE SEEN, HOP OVER TO POWERBLOCK TV DOT COM. UNTIL NEXT TIME, Y'ALL KEEP IT BETWEEN THE DITCH.
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