XOR - Xtreme Off-Road Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

Dupli-Color
Rust Eliminator
Edwards Ironworkers
55 Ton Ironworker
Lincoln Electric
Lincoln Electric is the official welding supplier to XOR
Sawblade.com
Trajan Q1400 Circular Saw
The Industrial Depot
Tools, hardware, shop supplies

Episode Transcript

(NARRATOR)>> TODAY WE'RE GETTING OUR COYOTE ALUMINATOR VEIGHT INSTALLED IN OUR PRERUNNER RANGER. THEN WE'RE MAKING ROOM FOR OUR LONG TRAVEL SUSPENSION, AND GETTING OUR ROLL CAGE INSTALLED. IT'S ALL RIGHT HERE ON XOR.

(ELIZA)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO XOR. TODAY WE'RE GETTING A COYOTE ALUMINATOR INTO THE RANGER, AND IN ORDER TO GET OUR ENGINE AS FAR BACK AND AS FAR DOWN AS WE CAN WE NEEDED TO CUT OFF A BIT OF OUR TRANSMISSION TUNNEL.

(JEREMY)>> AND THE REASON WHY WE'RE GOING BACK AND DOWN IS TO THE GET THE BEST CENTER OF GRAVITY BECAUSE WE WANT OUR RANGER TO FLY FARTHER, BE FASTER, AND BE A WHOLE LOT SAFER IN THE AIR, BUT BEFORE WE DO ANY OF THAT WE'VE GOT TO MODIFY THE FIREWALL JUST A LITTLE BIT. [ saw cutting metal ]

(JEREMY)>> AND THAT STARTS WITH REMOVING THE STOCK HEAT SHIELD.

AND WE'RE GONNA MAKE A COUPLE OF RELIEF CUTS TO BEND THE PINCH WELD OVER. [ hammer banging metal ]

(JEREMY)>> WE BENT THAT BACK TO ALLOW THE BELL HOUSING TO FIT IN HERE FURTHER, WHICH HOPEFULLY WILL ALLOW EVERYBODY TO SLIDE BACKWARDS AND FALL DOWN A LITTLE BIT FURTHER. AND WE REPEAT THE SAME PROCESS ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE. [ hammer banging metal ]

(JEREMY)>> SLOWLY, WE'LL GET IT. OH, WOW, THAT ACTUALLY FITS, FOR THE MOST PART. IT NEVER CAME WITH A VEIGHT BUT THERE'S ONE IN THERE NOW. WELL EVERYTHING FITS EXCEPT FOR LIKE RIGHT HERE. SO WE'RE GONNA TAKE THE ENGINE AND TRANS OUT OF IT AND THEN KINDA JUST MESSAGE THIS AREA UP. THEN WE'LL PUT THE ENGINE AND TRANS RIGHT BACK IN IT. HOPEFULLY IT SHOULD ALL FIT.

WE'RE GONNA MASSAGE RIGHT THERE. WE'RE GONNA POUND THAT IN. SO HERE WE GO. SWING, WOO, THAT MOVED. BIG TIME. MOVING A LOT OF METAL WITH THE BIGGER HAMMER MAY LEAD TO SOME SMALLER ISSUES THAT YOU MIGHT HAVE TO CLEAN UP, LIKE THIS CREASE. SO WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO IS POUND THIS CREASE OUT OF HERE. THE EASIEST WAY TO DO IT IS FOR ME TO JUST BE UNDER THE TRUCK WITH MY HEAD IN THE TRANS TUNNEL AREA. THIS WORKS GOOD!

WE'RE GONNA USE A DOLLY ON THE INSIDE TO HELP SHAPE THE METAL, BUT THEN AGAIN THIS DOESN'T HAVE TO BE PERFECT CAUSE IT'S JUST A RACE TRUCK. THERE! NOW YOU KNOW WHAT THEY SAY? SOMETIMES IT DOESN'T HAVE TO BE PRETTY, JUST HAS TO BE.

(ELIZA)>> WHILE JEREMY'S GETTING THE ENGINE PUT IN THE RANGER I'VE BEEN WORKING ON THE ROLL CAGE, AND WE'LL SHOW YOU OUR PLANS HERE IN JUST A BIT.

(JEREMY)>> ALL RIGHT, LET'S SEE IF IT FITS, HOPEFULLY FOR THE LAST TIME.

ALL RIGHT, SO, THIS IS WHERE WE WERE JUST WORKING WAS RIGHT DOWN IN HERE, AND NOW YOU CAN SEE WE ACTUALLY HAVE CLEARANCE THERE. SO THAT'LL WORK. THAT'LL WORK REALLY GOOD. WITH OUR ENGINE EXACTLY WHERE WE WANT IT IN THE DEAD CENTER OF THE CHASSIS WE'RE GONNA GO AHEAD AND WORK ON OUR MOTOR MOUNTS NOW. SO THAT STARTS WITH TAKING THESE TWO TABS, CUTTING THEM DOWN TO ABOUT AN INCH AND A QUARTER, WHICH IS HOW FAR THE MOTOR MOUNT STANDS OFF THE CROSS MEMBER, AND THEN WE'LL JUST WELD THEM IN. OUR EDWARDS 55 TON IRON WORKER EASILY DOES WORK LIKE THIS. IT HAS A PUNCH ASSEMBLY WITH A PEDESTAL DYE TABLE. IT'S A FLAT BAR SHEAR AND AN ANGLE SHEAR, AND HAS A TOOLING STATION FOR OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES. SO WE'VE GOT TO TRIM THIS DOWN, THE CENTER OF OUR MOTOR MOUNT TO OUR CROSS MEMBER IS GONNA BE INCH AND QUARTER. SO WE'LL MEASURE DOWN TO AN INCH AND A QUARTER, AND WE'LL TRIM THE EXCESS OFF THE BOTTOM.

SINCE OUR PIECE IS SHORT, WE'LL SLIDE IT IN AND USE AN EXTRA PIECE OF METAL TO POSITION US CORRECTLY. THEN WE'RE ALSO GONNA LAY IT ON TOP SO WE CAN PUT THE GATE DOWN.

WE'LL JUST SNUG THIS UP A LITTLE BIT. TACK THEM RIGHT ON THE CHASSIS. PICK THE MOTOR UP JUST A LITTLE BIT TOO, STRAIGHTEN IT OUT. [ welder crackling ]

(JEREMY)>> BEFORE WE GET TOO CRAZY, MAKE SURE THE TRANSMISSION IS CENTERED. AND ONCE YOU'RE CERTAIN THAT THE TRANSMISSION IS CENTERED IN BETWEEN THE FRAME RAILS YOU CAN GO AHEAD AND TACK IT IN PLACE. ALL RIGHT, OTHER SIDE. NOW SINCE THE COYOTE DIDN'T COME STOCK IN THE RANGER THE MOTOR MOUNTS ARE DIFFERENT FROM SIDE TO SIDE, LIKE THE FRONT TAB HERE. IT'S JUST A LITTLE BIT LONGER THAN THE OTHERS. [ welder crackling ]

(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT, WE'LL GET OUR FRAME MODIFIED FOR OUR NEW SUSPENSION, AND LATER WE'LL GET IT ALL INSTALLED.

(ELIZA)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK. I'M GONNA TAKE A QUICK BREAK FROM THE ROLL CAGE TO LET YOU GUYS KNOW THAT NOW THAT WE'VE GOT THE MOTOR WHERE WE WANT IT IS OUT AND THAT'S TO MAKE ROOM FOR A NEW SUSPENSION. NOW THIS STOCK SUSPENSION THAT CAME OUT OF THE RANGER WAS GREAT FOR A DAILY DRIVER BUT IT'S NOT GONNA WORK OUT TOO WELL FOR OUR PRERUNNER.

SO LSK SENT US THEIR RANGER TWO WHEEL DRIVE RACE KIT, AND THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT WE WANT FOR OUR PRERUNNER. NOW WHILE JEREMY IS PUTTING IN THE SUSPENSION I'M GONNA CONTINUE WORKING ON THE ROLL CAGE, THANK YOU.

(JEREMY)>> AND BELIEVE IT OR NOT, THIS IS ACTUALLY GONNA BOLT DIRECTLY INTO THE RANGER, BUT NOT WITHOUT DOING A COUPLE OF MODS FIRST. SO I'M GONNA GET TO CUTTING.

AND THE FIRST STEP IS TO CUT THE STOCK SPRING POCKET AWAY TO MAKE ROOM FOR THE COIL OVER. [ torch cutting metal ]

(JEREMY)>> THAT WAS SIMPLE ENOUGH. WE'RE USING OUR LINCOLN TOMAHAWK 1,000 AND CRANKING IT UP TO A LITTLE OVER 40 BECAUSE WE'RE ACTUALLY CUTTING THROUGH THREE LAYERS OF METAL.

THAT MADE SHORT WORK OF IT.

AND HERE WE'RE GONNA MAKE A LITTLE MORE ROOM TO TIE IN THE REINFORCEMENT THAT I'M ABOUT TO MAKE. [ torch cutting metal ]

(JEREMY)>> AND THE SAME GOES FOR THE BACK. [ torch cutting metal ]

[ hammer banging metal ]

(JEREMY)>> WITH THE PASSENGER SIDE CUT OUT, IT'S BACK TO GOOD OLE FASHION CARDBOARD TO MAKE A PATTERN.

THE FRAME REINFORCEMENT WE'RE MAKING WILL ACTUALLY BOX THE FRAME IN WHERE WE JUST CUT AWAY THE SPRING MOUNT. WE'RE USING THREESIXTEENTHS PLATE STEEL. AFTER MARKING THE CENTER OF THIS 17 INCH PIECE, I'M MAKING REFERENCE MARKS AT EVERY INCH BECAUSE WE'RE GONNA BE USING OUR EDWARDS HORIZONTAL PRESS TO BEND IT.

I'M MAKING SLIGHT BENDS IN THE HORIZONTAL PRESS ON EACH OF THE LINES I DREW, CONSTANTLY CHECKING IT AGAINST THE CARDBOARD TEMPLATE. THIS IS A GAME OF MANY, MANY SMALL BENDS TO FORM THE SHAPE, BUT THIS MACHINE NOT ONLY DOES ALL THE HARD WORK, IT DOES IT VERY PRECISELY.

OTHER WAYS TO MAKE THIS ROUNDED REINFORCEMENT WOULD BE TO USE A BENCH VICE AND A TORCH, OR YOU COULD EVEN FIND A PIECE OF STEEL PIPE WITH THE MATCHING DIAMETER AND JUST CUT IT IN HALF.

NOW THE SLIGHT GAP YOU SEE IS JUST FINE BECAUSE IT GIVES US GREAT WELDING PENETRATION.

WE INTENTIONALLY MADE THE REINFORCEMENT LONG SINCE WE KNEW WE WERE JUST GONNA TRIM TO FIT. [ saw cutting metal ]

(JEREMY)>> USING A ROUNDED CORNER LIKE THIS ADDS A TON OF STRENGTH BACK INTO THE CHASSIS.

[ welder crackling ]

(JEREMY)>> AND JUST LIKE BEFORE, THE SAME THING GOES FOR THE BACK. [ hammer banging metal ]

[ welder crackling ]

(JEREMY)>> AND THEN WE JUST CRANK UP THE WELDER AND BURN IT IN.

(NARRATOR)>> WHEN WE COME BACK ELIZA'S GETTING OUR ROLL CAGE BUILT IN THE CAB, STAY TUNED.

(ELIZA)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOW. IF YOU WANT TO KNOW WHAT I'VE BEEN UP TO IT HAS BEEN NOTHING BUT CUTTING AND BENDING, AND MORE CUTTING AND BENDING. WE'VE ALREADY GOT OUR MAIN HOOP FABRICATED AND FITTED INTO THE TRUCK. NOW LET ME SHOW YOU WHAT ELSE GOES IN HERE. NOW HERE IS THE REST OF OUR FRONT END OF THE ROLL CAGE. THIS IS OUR APILLAR POST. THAT IS OUR DOOR INTRUSION BAR. THOSE ARE THE CROSS MEMBERS FOR OUR MAIN HOOP AND THAT TIES EVERYTHING TOGETHER. LET'S GET STARTED. THE FIRST PIECE TO GO IN IS THE APILLAR POST. HOLES CUT IN THE FLOOR PAN WILL ALLOW US TO LOWER THE CAGE TO FINISH WELDING ALL THE WAY AROUND THE TUBING ONCE IT'S ALL TACKED TOGETHER. [ welder crackling ]

(ELIZA)>> OKAY, NOW I'M READY FOR THIS ONE. [ welder crackling ]

(ELIZA)>> WITH THOSE IN PLACE, UP NEXT IS THE WINDSHIELD BAR. ALL RIGHT, LET ME CHECK TO SEE IF THIS IS LEVEL. WOW, PRETTY MUCH RIGHT ON THE MONEY. [ welder crackling ]

(ELIZA)>> FOLLOWED BY THE DASH BAR.

[ welder crackling ]

(ELIZA)>> THE TUBE I'M USING FOR THE CAGE IS INCH AND THREE QUARTER DOM 120 WALL TUBING, AND OUR SAW BLADE DOT COM CHOP SAW MAKES QUICK WORK OF CUTTING IT TO LENGTH. [ saw cutting metal ]

(ELIZA)>> THIS IS THE CENTER INNER CONNECTING TOP BAR, FOLLOWED BY THE PASSENGER AND DRIVERS SIDE TOP BARS. THESE PREVENT THE APILLAR BARS FROM CAVING IN IN THE EVENT OF A SIDE ROLLOVER.

MEASURING IS SO IMPORTANT TO MAKE SURE THAT EVERYTHING IS CENTERED AND TRIANGULATED TO BEST DISTRIBUTE ANY ENERGY ON THE CAGE IF THINGS DON'T GO AS SMOOTHLY AS PLANNED. [ welder crackling ]

(ELIZA)>> WITH EVERYTHING TACKED TOGETHER FROM THE BOTTOM IT'S TIME TO LOWER IT ALL DOWN SO I CAN COMPLETE THE WELDS ON THE TOP SIDE OF THE CAGE.

(JEREMY)>> WELL THAT'S GONNA WORK OUT GREAT!

(ELIZA)>> I THINK I CAN GET TO EVERYTHING IN THERE.

(JEREMY)>> YOU CAN. GOOD JOB!

(ELIZA)>> THANK YOU. DID YOU GET CAUGHT IN THE RAIN ON YOUR LAST TRAIL RIDE AND THINGS GET RUSTY? WELL DUPLICOLOR'S GOT THE SOLUTION FOR YOU. DUPLICOLOR'S RUST ELIMINATOR DOES JUST WHAT IT SAYS. IT ELIMINATES RUST ON AUTOMOTIVE PARTS, TOOLS, AND JUST ABOUT ANYTHING THAT CAN BE SUBMERGED. DUPLICOLOR SAYS IT WILL SAFELY ELIMINATE RUST ON METAL WITH ITS WATER BASED BIODEGRADABLE SOLUTION. ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS CLEAN THE METAL OF ANY DIRT, GREASE, OR WAX. THEN SUBMERGE IT INTO A PLASTIC CONTAINER, AND FOR LARGE ITEMS THE SOLUTION CAN BE MIXED ONE TO ONE FOR FULL SUBMERSION. ONCE THE RUST IS GONE TAKE YOUR PART OUT OF THE CONTAINER, AND THEN THE REMAINING SOLUTION CAN BE STORED AWAY AND REUSED. DUPLICOLOR SAYS THE RUST ELIMINATOR CAN TAKE ANYWHERE FROM A FEW MINUTES TO 24 HOURS DEPENDING ON HOW BAD YOUR RUST IS.

(NARRATOR)>> AFTER THE BREAK WE'LL ASSEMBLE OUR NEW FRONT SUSPENSION, STICK AROUND.

(ELIZA)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO XOR. I KNOW, I KNOW, THE CAGE LOOKS LIKE A PLAYGROUND JUNGLE GYM FOR WELDING, BUT AT LEAST NOW I CAN GET TO ALL OF THE WELDS UP TOP.

ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT PARTS OF ANY CAGE ARE ITS GUSSETS BECAUSE ALL INTERSECTING POINTS SHOULD BE GUSSETED AND BRACED, AND THERE'S A LOT OF THEM TO BE CUT, NOTCHED, AND WELDED.

ALL RIGHT, WELL THAT'S GUSSET SIX OUT OF 100. WELL NOT 100, BUT ALMOST 100. ANYWAYS, ONCE WE GET OUR GUSSETS CUT OUT AND WELDED IN JEREMY AND I WILL NEED TO LIFT UP THE CAGE TO WHERE IT NEEDS TO BE SO THAT WE CAN GET IT FITTED FOR THE FLOOR AND FRAME PLATES. ONCE WE GET THAT DONE THEN WE CAN GO AHEAD AND GET STARTED ON GETTING THE GUSSET MADE FROM APILLAR TO APOST, BUT IN ORDER TO DO THAT WE NEED TO HAVE OUR WINDSHIELD TAKEN OUT. AND SINCE WE GET OUR WINDSHIELD TAKEN OUT WE MIGHT AS WELL GET OUR CORNER GLASS TAKEN OUT SO THAT WE CAN HAVE ACCESS TO FINISH WELDING UP THE REAR OF THE CAGE. AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST WE'LL NEED TO GET THE REAR WINDOW TAKEN OUT FOR SAFETY AS WELL AS FOR ACCESS TO THE DOWN BARS. THEY'RE GONNA COME FROM THE TOP OF THE CAB TO THE REAR OF THE FRAME. SO WHILE WE'RE WAITING FOR THE GLASS TO COME OUT I'M GONNA CONTINUE WORKING ON GUSSETS.

(JEREMY)>> WELL NOW THAT WE'VE MODIFIED THE CHASSIS HERE'S THE BIG REASON WHY WE DID IT. WE'RE GONNA BE RUNNING LONG TRAVEL SUSPENSION FROM LSK SUSPENSION, AND THE REASON WHY WE HAD TO CUT THE CHASSIS OUT IS WHEN WE PUT THEIR BIG FABRICATED LOWER CONTROL ARMS IN PLACE WE'RE GONNA BE RUNNING A 10 INCH COIL OVER SPRING THAT'S GONNA SIT RIGHT HERE. SO ALL I'VE GOT TO DO IS GET THIS ALL INSTALLED. THEN WE'RE GONNA GO OVER TO THE OTHER SIDE AND DO THE EXACT SAME THING.

THE LSK KIT COMES WITH THE UPPER AND LOWER CONTROL ARMS, SPINDLE, COMPLETE STEERING FROM THE RACK OUT, AND ALL THE GRADE EIGHT HARDWARE YOU NEED TO BOLT IT TOGETHER.

AND THIS ALL FITS IN THE STOCK LOCATION ON OUR RANGER, AND WILL GIVE US ABOUT 19 INCHES OF WHEEL TRAVEL AND ADD ABOUT FOUR INCHES OF WIDTH PER SIDE. ALL THAT WILL ALLOW US TO RIP RIGHT THROUGH THE DESERT AT WIDE OPEN THROTTLE.

THE SYSTEM IS BUILT TO RUN DANA 44 SPINDLES, ALLOWING YOU TO RUN THE HUB, WHEEL, AND BRAKE SETUP OF YOUR CHOICE, AND WE'RE CHOOSING TO RUN A BRONCO STYLE SETUP ON OUR PRERUNNER. FOR MORE INFORMATION ON ANYTHING ON TODAY'S SHOW GO TO POWERNATION TV DOT COM. WOW, THAT'S BIG!

(ELIZA)>> WHEN WE CUT THE TOP OFF OF OUR TRANSMISSION TUNNEL TO MAKE ROOM FOR OUR NEW AND MUCH BIGGER FOURR-70-W WE THOUGHT WE WOULD TAKE JUST A MINUTE TO SHOW YOU A QUICK WAY TO MAKE A COVER THAT WILL NOT ONLY CLEAR THE TRANSMISSION BUT KEEP ALL OF THE DIRT OUT OF THE CAB WHEN WE'RE ON THE COURSE.

(JEREMY)>> LET'S SEE IF WE CAN'T STRAIGHTEN THIS THING OUT.

(ELIZA)>> THE FIRST THING WE WANT TO DO IS STRAIGHTEN OUT THE STAMPED COMPOUND CURVE IN THE LEFTOVER SIDE OF OUR TRANS TUNNEL. THAT'LL ALLOW US TO MAKE A SEAMLESS TRANSITION BETWEEN THE EXISTING FLOOR AND THE NEW COVER THAT WILL BE MADE OUT OF SHEET METAL. WITH PART OF OUR TRANS TUNNEL CUT AND THE OTHER STRAIGHTENED IT IS TIME TO START MAKING THE NEW ONE. FIRST THINGS FIRST IS WE'VE GOT TO FIND CENTER LINE OF OUR SHEET METAL.

OUR SECRET WEAPON IS A SLIP ROLLER. THE THREE ROLLERS BEND THE SHEET METAL INTO AN ARC AS THE SHEET IS ROLLED BACK AND FORTH.

AS THE TOP ROLLER IS TIGHTENED IT DECREASES THE RADIUS OF THE BEND. I THINK THAT'S IT.

MY FIRST CUT IS JUST TO TRIM THE EXCESS FOR A TEST FIT. ALL RIGHT, LET'S SEE HOW MUCH MORE WE NEED TO LOP OFF.

WOO, NOT BAD.

WITH THE COVER CUT TO FIT, WE CAN NOW TRIM FOR CORRECT LENGTH. I'M USING A CALIPER SET TO HOW MUCH I NEED TO CUT OFF TO SCORE MY LINES. THE ELECTRIC SHEAR MAKES CUTTING QUICK WORK.

I USED A DRILL AND CLECOS TO MOUNT THE COVER WHERE I WANTED IT BEFORE SECURING THE FRONT OF THE COVER WITH SHEET METAL SCREWS.

WORKING FROM ONE SIDE TO THE OTHER, I SHAPED THE COVER WITH A BODY HAMMER.

[ saw cutting metal ]

(ELIZA)>> I MADE RELIEF CUTS IN THE BOTTOM FOR A BETTER FORM ON THE FLAT PORTION OF THE FLOOR PAN.

[ drill spinning ]

(ELIZA)>> ONCE I HAD THE COVER WHERE I WANTED IT I REMOVED IT AND USED THE BENCH VICE TO FLATTEN THE SIDES TO MATE UP WITH THE SIDES OF THE TUNNEL WE FLATTENED EARLIER.

REMEMBER, THIS IS A RACE TRUCK AND THIS PIECE IS FOR FUNCTION ONLY SINCE OUR CUSTOM DASH AND CONSOLE WILL COVER IT UP. LOOKS GOOD!
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