XOR - Xtreme Off-Road Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

BDS Suspension
6" 4-Link Lift Kit - Ford F250/F350 4WD, With Front Coilover Shock Upgrade
Edwards Ironworkers
55 Ton Edwards Ironworker With Hydraulic Accessory Pack Option; 10 Ton Bender, 15 Ton Horizontal Press,Tubing Roller And 40 Ton Shop Press.
Loctite
Anti Seize Compound, Copper, 8-Oz. Can
Moroso
Battery Disconnect Switch, Rotary, 300 Continuous Amps Rating, Each
Optima
Battery, Yellow Top, 12 V, Deep Cycle, 750 Cold Cranking Amps, Top/Side Post, BCI Group 34/78, Each
Power Stop
Power Stop Z36 truck & tow Brake Kit with Power Stop Extreme Severe-Duty Pads with drilled & Slotted Rotors, Front and Rear kit
RimzOne
Wheel and Tire Package: Raceline 925M Havoc 20x9 and Dick Cepek Fun Country 35X12.50R20LT
Summit Racing
Starter, Mini, Hi-Torque, Inline Bolts, Chevy, Big/Small Block, Each
The Industrial Depot
Industrial Depot - Fasteners, Hardware, And Shop Supplies
Warn Industries
Winch, VR 10000, 12 V, Hawse Fairlead, Power In/Out, 3/8 in. x 100 ft. Spydura synthetic rope, 12 ft. Hand-Held Remote, Each
WD-40
WD-40 300004 Specialist Rust Release Penetrant Spray, 11 oz.

Episode Transcript

(ANNOUNCER)>> OUR STOCK F-250 IS A CAPABLE WELL EQUIPPED TRUCK BUT SOME KEY UPGRADES WILL TAKE IT TO THE NEXT LEVEL.

TODAY ON XTREME OFF ROAD WE PERK UP OUR PICK UP WITH A FOUR LINK SUSPENSION, POWERFUL BRAKES, AND PLENTY OF GRIP. PLUS CHOOSING THE RIGHT TIG WELDING TORCH. AND ROCK BOUNCERS CAN BE A LITTLE UNPREDICTABLE. WE'LL INSTALL A KILL SWITCH ON OURS TO

HELP KEEP US SAFE.

(IAN)>> THERE IS NO QUESTION THAT OLD TRUCKS ARE COOL.

I MEAN THEY JUST LOOK MEAN. THEY HAVE VINTAGE STYLE.

THEY TURN HEADS EVERYWHERE THEY GO. THE BEST THING IS NOWADAYS YOU CAN UPDATE THEM UNDERNEATH TO MAKE THEM JUST AS RELIABLE AS A NEW TRUCK. AS COOL AS THEY ARE THOUGH IT'S REALLY NOT FEASIBLE

TO DRIVE ONE OF THOSE EVERY SINGLE DAY AND USE IT AS YOUR PRIMARY MODE OF TRANSPORTATION. FOR THAT MOST OF US END UP WITH SOMETHING LIKE THIS, A MODERN DIESEL PICK UP TRUCK, THREE QUARTER TON OR ONE TON. YOU CAN USE IT TO DRIVE EVERYDAY AND YOU CAN HAUL YOUR TOYS TO AND FROM THE TRAIL. BUT JUST BECAUSE IT'S A BRAND NEW TRUCK DOESN'T MEAN YOU HAVE TO LEAVE IT ALONE. THIS 2011 FORD F-250 IS A GREAT EXAMPLE OF A GOOD

EVERYDAY TRUCK. THE DIESEL ENGINE UNDER THE HOOD PROVIDES ENOUGH POWER TO HAUL A GOOD LOAD IN THE BED AND A TRAILER WITH YOUR RIG ON IT.

PLUS IT HAS WHAT CLASSIC TRUCKS DON'T HAVE, CREATURE COMFORTS.

NOW THIS MAY SEEM SILLY BUT IF YOU EVER PLAN TO HAUL YOUR TOYS ACROSS THE COUNTRY, YOU'RE GONNA WANT TO HAVE THINGS LIKE CRUISE CONTROL, COMFORTABLE SEATS, AND CLIMATE CONTROL. THERE'S NO QUESTION THAT THIS TRUCK IS NICE, BUT IT'S NOT REALLY XTREME STYLE.

AND THAT'S WHAT I PLAN TO FIX, AND IT'S ALL GONNA START WITH A NEW SUSPENSION SYSTEM. SO THE STOCK STUFF HAS GOT TO GO.

THE FIRST JOB ON OUR FORD IS GONNA BE TO COMPLETELY UPGRADE THE SUSPENSION. NOW WE'RE NOT JUST DOING THAT TO LIFT THE TRUCK UP TO FIT LARGER WHEELS AND TIRES. WE'RE ALSO GONNA COMPLETELY CHANGE THE DESIGN OF THE FRONT SUSPENSION SYSTEM. FROM THE FACTORY THE FORD USES WHAT'S CALLED A RADIUS ARM. NOW THAT'S JUST ONE LARGE STAMPED STEEL SUSPENSION PIECE. IT HAS ONE PIVOT POINT AT THE FRAME AND IT'S GOT TWO FIXED POINTS AT THE AXLE. NOW THERE'S NOTHING REALLY WRONG WITH A RADIUS ARM BUT WHEN YOU HAVE A LOT OF AXLE MOVEMENT, LIKE WHEN YOU HAVE A LIFTED TRUCK, YOU TEND TO GET A LOT OF DRIVELINE BIND AND THAT CAN CAUSE SOME SLIGHT VIBRATION. NOW BDS SUSPENSION HAS A FIX FOR THAT. THEY HAVE A KIT THAT CONVERTS THE RADIUS ARM OVER TO THIS TRUE FOUR LINK SETUP. IT'LL BASICALLY REPLACE THE RADIUS ARM WITH AN UPPER AND A LOWER PARALLEL FOUR BAR. NOW THE NICE THING IS IT WILL SOLVE THAT DRIVELINE BINDING ISSUE WHEN YOU LIFT THE TRUCK UP. AND WE PLAN TO PUT THIS RIG UP AN ADDITIONAL SIX INCHES. AND IT SIMPLY BOLTS IN PLACE OF THE FACTORY RADIUS ARM BRACKET. ON OUR TRUCK THE LIFT MOUNTING PAD IS CURRENTLY SITTING ON THE RADIUS ARM THAT NEEDS TO BE REMOVED. SO WITH THE TRUCK LOWERED AND TEMPORARILY SITTING ON SOME JACK STANDS, THE RADIUS ARM CAN THEN BE UNBOLTED FROM THE FRAME. THE BRACKET IS THEN CUT OFF OF THE FRAME RAIL.

THE NEW BDS BRACKET IS THEN INSTALLED AND BOLTED UP USING THE INCLUDED GRADE EIGHT HARDWARE. THE TRUCK IS THEN RAISED BACK UP ON THE LIFT TO A COMFORTABLE WORKING HEIGHT, AND THE FACTORY TRACK BAR IS REMOVED. THE STOCK PITMAN ARM IS PULLED OFF THE BOX. NEW DROPPED PITMAN ARM IS BOLTED IN PLACE, AND THE NEW BDS DROPPED TRACK BAR BRACKET IS BOLTED UP. THEN THE SWAY BAR LOWERING BLOCKS ARE BOLTED INTO PLACE.

AXLE IS THEN LOWERED AND THE FOUR LINK BARS ARE ATTACHED.

FINALLY THE NEW ADJUSTABLE TRACK BAR IS INSTALLED. NORMALLY AT THIS POINT IN OUR SUSPENSION INSTALL I'D BE INSTALLING A LARGER COIL SPRING AND A COUPLE OF SHOCKS, BUT NOW BDS HAS ANOTHER OPTION FOR YOU ON THE FRONT OF YOUR F-250, AND THAT IS TO CONVERT IT OVER TO A SET OF COIL OVERS. NOW BDS HAS WORKED CLOSELY WITH THE GUYS FROM

FOXX AND PACK RACING SPRINGS TO PUT TOGETHER A

PERFECT PACKAGE THAT'LL FIT UNDERNEATH OUR F-250. IT'LL GIVE US THE LIFT THAT WE WANT, SIX INCHES, A GOOD RIDE THANKS TO A WELL DESIGNED COIL SPRING SETUP, AND THE VALVING INSIDE THE SHOCK WILL KEEP EVERYTHING UNDER CONTROL. WE DO NEED TO SWAP OUT SOME BRACKETS TO CONVERT THIS TRUCK FROM COIL SPRINGS OVER TO COIL OVER, AND IT ALL STARTS WITH A NEW ONE THAT BOLTS ONTO THE AXLE. JUST LIKE THE RADIUS ARM MOUNT, TO MOUNT OUR NEW COIL OVERS THE SPRING BUCKETS HAVE TO BE REMOVED FROM THE FRAME. AND THE NEW BRACKET IS BOLTED ONTO THE FRAME USING THE SUPPLIED GRADE EIGHT HARDWARE.

THEN THE COIL OVER IS SLID INTO THE UPPER MOUNT AND ATTACHED TO OUR AXLE. YOU MAY HAVE NOTICED AN ADDITIONAL MOUNT BEHIND OUR COIL OVER ON THIS BRACKET THAT

WE GOT FROM BDS. WELL THAT'S BECAUSE BDS MAKES THIS SUSPENSION EXPANDABLE.

IF IN THE FUTURE IF YOU EVER WANTED TO, YOU COULD ADD A BYPASS SHOCK TO WORK IN CONJUNCTION WITH THIS COIL OVER AND JUST GIVE YOU THE MOST FINE TUNABLE SUSPENSION THAT YOU COULD COME UP WITH ON THE FRONT OF ONE OF THESE F-250'S. WE'RE JUST INSTALLING THE COIL OVER CONVERSION BECAUSE IT'S ALL WE NEED FOR THIS

PARTICULAR APPLICATION. ALL I HAVE TO DO NOW IS MOUNT THE RESERVOIR FOR OUR COIL OVER AND TIGHTEN UP A FEW ITEMS. AND THEN THE FRONT OF HALF OF THE SUSPENSION INSTALL IS ALL DONE.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, STRONG STOPPERS AND STICKY

TIRES FOR OUR FORD.

AND PROJECT RAGING BULL RECEIVES A COMPETITION GRADE WINCH.

(IAN)>> WE ARE BACK ON XTREME INSTALLING A NEW

SIX INCH SUSPENSION SYSTEM ON THE 2011 FORD F-250. WITH THE FRONT END FINISHED UP, WE CAN NOW

FOCUS ON THE REAR. TO GET THE LIFT OUT BACK BDS SUPPLIED TWO NEW LEAF SPRINGS. STOCK LEAF OUT, THE SWING SHACKLE IS TRANSFERRED OVER TO THE NEW LEAF. THE LEAF IS PUT INTO PLACE AND NEW UBOLTS BOLT THE AXLE UP TO THE LEAF. NEXT NEW LONG TRAVEL FOXX TWO POINT ZERO SHOCKS REPLACE THE STOCK ONES. ONE OF THE MAIN REASONS THAT WE'VE INSTALLED A

SUSPENSION LIFT ON OUR TRUCK IS TO INSTALL LARGER WHEELS AND TIRES. NOW WHEN EVER YOU DO THAT, IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO LOOK AT UPGRADING YOUR BRAKES. YOU HAVE TO REMEMBER, THAT LARGER TIRE/WHEEL PACKAGE HAS A GREATER MASS THAT YOU ARE TRYING TO SLOW DOWN. NOW A GOOD OPTION FOR THAT UPGRADE IS TO HEAD ON OVER TO POWERSTOP DOT COM AND CHECK OUT THEIR ONE CLICK BRAKE KIT. IT IS EVERYTHING THAT YOU NEED TO UPGRADE THE BRAKES ON YOUR TRUCK IN ONE PACKAGE. NOW FOR OUR TRUCK IT COMES WITH FOUR NEW ROTORS. NOW THESE ARE DRILLED AND SLOTTED. THE HOLES IN THE ROTOR ARE THERE TO IMPROVE THE COOLING EFFICIENCY OF THE BRAKE SYSTEM, AND THE SLOTS ARE THERE TO SHED ANY EXCESS GAS THAT BUILDS UP UNDERNEATH THE BRAKE PAD.

ALL FOUR ROTORS ARE ZINC COATED TO PREVENT RUST. IT'LL GIVE THEM A GOOD LONG LIFE UNDERNEATH OUR TRUCK. THE KIT ALSO COMES WITH ALL NEW BRAKE PADS. NOW THESE ARE A CARBON FIBER CERAMIC INFUSED PAD. NOW THESE WILL NOT ONLY IMPROVE THE BRAKING EFFICIENCY OF OUR TRUCK, BUT THEY'RE ALSO DESIGNED TO PREVENT BRAKE FADE. NOW THAT IS A REAL ISSUE WHEN YOU BUILD A TRUCK THAT YOU PLAN TO PULL A TRAILER WITH. THE LAST THING YOU WANT IS ANY POSSIBLE SPONGY PEDAL OR BRAKE FADE WHEN YOU'RE DRIVING DOWN A LONG HILL AND YOU'VE GOT A TRAILER ON THE BACK TRYING TO PUSH YOU DOWN IT WITH YOUR RIGS ON IT. NOW WHEN YOU INSTALL THE PADS THE KIT COMES WITH ALL NEW STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE PAD RETAINING HARDWARE AND NEW BOOTS FOR OUR SLIDERS.

SO WE'LL BE ABLE TO FRESHEN UP OUR CALIPERS AND THE BRAKE SYSTEM ON OUR TRUCK WILL BE BETTER THAN NEW.

INSTALLATION OF THE BRAKE UPGRADE IS AS SIMPLE AS

REMOVING THE CALIPER FROM THE BRIDGE ASSEMBLY,

UNBOLTING THE BRIDGE FROM THE AXLE, AND REMOVING THE FACTORY ROTOR.

TO HELP BREAK THE ROTOR FREE FROM THE HUB SOME WD 40 RUST RELEASE PENETRANT IS SPRAYED AROUND THE PERIMETER AND THROUGH ALL THE LUG HOLES. OH YEAH! EACH OF OUR NEW ROTORS IS MARKED FOR LOCATION TO INSURE THE PROPER DIRECTIONAL SWEEP OF THE SLOTS. I LIKE TO USE SOME ANTISEIZE ON THE AXLE HUB TO MAKE ANY FUTURE MAINTENANCE A LOT EASIER.

THE NEW STAINLESS STEEL PAD RETAINERS ARE INSTALLED AND THE HIGH TEMP LUBE THAT'S INCLUDED IN THE POWERSTOP KIT IS APPLIED. NEW BOOTS ARE INSTALLED ONTO THE SLIDERS. THEN THE BRIDGE AND CALIPER ARE BOLTED BACK UP.

POWERSTOP DOES SUGGEST A VERY COMPREHENSIVE BREAK IN PROCEDURE FOR THIS PAD AND ROTOR SETUP. IT SUGGEST FIVE GOOD AGGRESSIVE STOPS FROM 40 MILES PER HOUR DOWN TO ABOUT 10.

AND THEN FIVE NOT SO AGGRESSIVE STOPS.

BASICALLY JUST HEATING UP THE BRAKE SYSTEM. THEN DRIVE IT TO ALLOW THE ROTOR TO COOL. WHAT THAT DOES IS IT ALLOWS THE RESIN INSIDE THE PADS TO CURE AND ALLOWS THE PAD TO BED ONTO THE ROTOR. NOW OBVIOUSLY BEFORE WE CAN DO ANY OF THAT BREAK IN PROCEDURE WE NEED TO HAVE SOME WHEELS AND TIRES ON THE TRUCK, AND THAT IS WHAT WE DO NEXT. WHEN IT COMES TIME TO PICK TIRES FOR YOUR LIFTED STREET TRUCK YOU HAVE TO BE HONEST WITH YOURSELF.

YOU DON'T NEED THE MOST AGGRESSIVE OFF ROAD TIRE.

YOU NEED A TIRE THAT'S GONNA WEAR WELL ON THE HIGHWAY AND STILL GIVE YOU A LITTLE BIT EXTRA TRACTION IF YOU EVER DROP OFF INTO THE DIRT. AND THAT IS WHY I CHOSE THIS DICK CEEPEK FUN COUNTRY TIRE. NOW THIS IS A 35 INCH TALL TIRE, 12.5 INCHES WIDE, SETUP FOR A 20 INCH RIM. NOW THE TREAD PATTERN IS OBVIOUSLY MUCH MORE AGGRESSIVE THAN ANY FACTORY TIRE, BUT STILL CLOSE KNIT ENOUGH THAT WE WON'T HAVE A VERY LOUD

SOUND SIGNATURE FROM THIS TIRE WHEN DRIVING ON THE ROAD, BUT WE WILL GET SOME MORE TRACTION IF WE EVER DECIDE TO TAKE THIS TRUCK OFF ROAD.

NOW THE NICE THING IS IT IS A LOAD RANGE "E" TIRE, WHICH IS GOOD BECAUSE WE STILL PLAN TO USE THIS TRUCK AS A TRUCK BY THROWING A LOAD IN THE BED AND SOMETIMES HAULING A TRAILER. SO WE WANT THAT HIGH LOAD RATING. THE WHEELS ARE FROM RACELINE. THEY ARE 20 INCH BY NINE INCH WIDE HAVOC SERIES WHEELS, AND THEY ARE A HEAVY DUTY TRUCK AND SUV ALL ALUMINUM WHEEL. AND THEY HAVE A REALLY GOOD STYLE WITH THAT MATTE BLACK AND MACHINED LIP. PLUS THIS FAKE BEADLOCK RING ON THE OUTSIDE WITH

THE EXPOSED FASTENERS WILL REALLY TIE IN TO THE REST OF THE THEME THAT I HAVE PLANNED FOR THIS TRUCK. THE BEST THING IS IS THEY SHOWED UP AS A COMPLETE PACKAGE HERE AT THE EXTREME SHOP. ALREADY MOUNTED, BALANCED, WITH LUG NUTS READY TO INSTALL. AND THAT'S BECAUSE THESE TIRES AND WHEELS CAME AS PACKAGE FROM RIMS ONE ONLINE. NOW THEY SHIP THEIR TIRES PREFILLED WITH NITROGEN, WHICH MAINTAINS TIRE PRESSURE BETTER THAN STANDARD COMPRESSED AIR. THEY ALSO INCLUDE THE CORRECT SPLINED DRIVE LUG NUTS AND SOCKET TO MAKE INSTALLATION EASY AS PIE. AND NOW WE'VE COMPLETELY CHANGED THE LOOK OF THIS 2011 F-250, BUT WE'RE NOT DONE WITH THIS RIG YET. WE'VE GOT SOME MORE GOODIES PLANNED FOR THIS PROJECT THAT WE'RE CALLING EVERY DAY CHASE.

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP, A WELDING MACHINE READY TO TACKLE ANY SHOP PROJECT.

(ANNOUNCER)>> NOW SHOP TIPS FOR STRONGER, SAFER WELDS.

(IAN)>> THIS YEAR WE'VE BEEN HAVING AN IN DEPTH LOOK AT TIG WELDING. WE'VE LOOKED AT DIFFERENT MACHINE SET UPS, OUTPUT WELDING VOLTAGES, HOW TO CHOOSE DIFFERENT FILLER MATERIAL, AND TUNGSTEN OPTIONS. NOW TODAY WE'RE GONNA HAVE A LOOK AT DIFFERENT TORCH SETUPS THAT'LL MAKE WELDING A LOT EASIER.

WE'LL ALSO LOOK AT PROPER WAYS TO ADD FILLER

MATERIAL TO THE MOLTEN PUDDLE, AND HOW TO CONTROL THAT MOLTEN PUDDLE WHILE WELDING. THERE ARE MANY SPECIALIZED TORCHES IN THE WORLD OF TIG WELDING, BUT FOR OFF ROAD FABRICATION THERE ARE TWO MAIN TYPES, A FIXED HEAD TORCH AND A FLEX HEAD TORCH. WHEN YOU BUY YOUR TIG WELDER, IT WILL MORE THAN LIKELY ARRIVE WITH A FIXED HEAD TORCH WITH A STANDARD

SIZE COLLET AND NOZZLE, AS WELL AS A LONG BACK CAP. THIS'LL WORK FINE FOR MOST WELDING PROCESSES. BUT WHEN YOUR WELDING SKILLS INCREASE YOU'VE GOTTA UPGRADE YOUR TOOLS. THE FLEX HEAD TORCH ALLOWS YOU TO GET BETTER POSITION FOR THE TUNGSTEN WHEN WORKING IN TIGHT PLACES. BUT IT CAN ALSO IMPROVE THE QUALITY OF YOUR WELDS BY GIVING YOU THE ABILITY TO HAVE YOUR BODY IN A MORE COMFORTABLE POSITION WHILE WELDING. BUT IF YOU'RE UPGRADING YOUR TIG WELDER, DON'T JUST STOP THERE. INSIDE THE CUP YOU WILL FIND THE COLLET BODY. A BETTER UPGRADE IS TO SWITCH TO A GAS LENS TYPE OF DIFFUSER. THE LENS PREVENTS TURBULENCE IN THE FLOW OF THE SHIELDING GAS AND PROVIDES A MORE STABLE ARC ZONE. OFTEN GAS LENSES ALLOW FOR MORE TUNGSTEN STICK OUT TO HELP YOU WELD IN TIGHT PLACES.

NOW DON'T STOP WITH JUST THE GAS LENS AND THE FLEX HEAD TORCH. WHEN YOU'RE SHOPPING AT THE WELDING SUPPLY STORE, PICK YOURSELF UP ONE OF THESE STUBBY BACK CAPS. IT JUST MAKES THE OVERALL SIZE OF THE TORCH BODY A LOT MORE MANAGEABLE. IT MAKES IT EASIER TO KEEP THE TORCH IN THE CORRECT POSITION. WHEN THE ARC IS INITIALLY STRUCK YOU WANT THE TORCH 90 DEGREES TO THE WORK PIECE. MOVE IN A SMALL CIRCULAR MOTION TO CREATE THE MOLTEN PUDDLE. THEN TIP THE TORCH TO APPROXIMATELY 75 DEGREES

AND YOU'RE GONNA PUSH THE MOLTEN PUDDLE ACROSS THE JOINT IF YOU'RE PERFORMING A FULL FUSION BUTT WELD. IF YOU'RE GONNA BE ADDING FILLER

MATERIAL IT'S SIMILAR. THE ARC IS STRUCK WITH THE TORCH 90 DEGREES TO THE WORK PIECE. YOU THEN TIP IT BACK 75 DEGREES AND YOU'RE ADDING THE FILLER MATERIAL TO THE LEADING EDGE OF THE MOLTEN PUDDLE AS YOU WORK YOUR WAY ACROSS THE JOINT. POSITION OF THE FILLER ROD IS ALSO KEY WHEN YOU'RE WELDING. YOU WANT TO KEEP IT CLOSE TO THE CLOUD OF SHIELDING GAS. MAKE SURE IT STAYS PROTECTED WHILE YOU'RE WELDING. NOW ALL THESE RULES, IT'S PRETTY OBVIOUS WHY A FLEX HEAD TORCH AND THE SMALLER BODY MAKE USING THE TIG WELDER A LOT EASIER IN THE WORLD OF OFF ROAD FABRICATION. YOU CAN JUST GET IT INTO THE TIGHTER SPOT AND KEEP THE CORRECT TORCH POSITION WHILE YOU'RE WELDING.

(IAN)>> PROJECT RAGING BULL, OUR ITALIAN SPORTS CAR THEMED ROCK BOUNCER, IT'S ALMOST DONE. EVERY NOW AND THEN I LOOK AT IT ACROSS THE SHOP AND JUST START SHAKING MY HEAD, YES, THINKING OF ALL

THE HILLS I'M GONNA KILL WITH THAT RIG.

AND THEN I GET A LITTLE BIT CLOSER TO THE CHASSIS AND I LOOK INSIDE AND I SHAKE MY HEAD NO BECAUSE I STILL HAVE A TON OF WORK TO DO. IT'S NOT A LOT OF BIG JOBS, IT'S JUST A WHOLE BUNCH OF LITTLE THINGS THAT KEEP A RIG LIKE THAT OFF OF THE TRAIL. WE'RE GONNA TAKE CARE OF ONE OF THEM TODAY, THE STARTING AND CHARGING SYSTEM. NOW FOR THE BOUNCER I PICKED UP THIS OPTIMA YELLOW TOP BATTERY. NOW THE REASON WE LIKE THE OPTIMA SERIES BATTERIES IS CAUSE THEY'RE WHAT'S CALLED AN AGM BATTERY, OR ABSORBED GLASS MAT. THAT MEANS IT'S A GEL FILLED BATTERY. IT CAN HANDLE MUCH MORE VIBRATION AND SHOCK THAN A TRADITIONAL LEAD ACID BATTERY. WE NEED A STARTER TO KICK OFF OUR BIG BLOCK. SO I GOT THIS HIGH TORQUE MINI STARTER

FROM SUMMIT RACING. IT'LL WORK PERFECTLY, MOUNT RIGHT ONTO OUR ENGINE. AND EVEN THOUGH YOU DON'T THINK ABOUT IT, THIS WARN WINCH IS TECHNICALLY PART OF THE STARTING AND CHARGING SYSTEM, AND THAT IS BECAUSE THEY'RE ALL

WIRED TOGETHER USING THE MAIN POWER FEED

FROM THE BATTERY. AND THERE'S ONE THING THAT YOU HAVE TO HAVE IN A HARDCORE OFF ROAD RIG WHEN YOU TALK ABOUT THAT MAIN POWER FEED, AND THAT'S ONE OF THESE MASTER DISCONNECT SWITCHES.

AND HOW YOU WIRE THAT UP IS VERY IMPORTANT. ON A ROCK BOUNCER, IF YOU'RE WINCHING, YOU'RE DOING IT WRONG. BUT HAVING A WINCH ON THE FRONT IS STILL GOOD INSURANCE IN CASE YOU NEED TO RECOVER A BROKEN RIG.

THIS WARN VR 10,000-S WILL BE PERFECT FOR OUR RIG. THE LIGHT WEIGHT SPYDURA ROPE WILL NOT ADD EXCESSIVE WEIGHT TO THE FRONT OF OUR RIG, AND THE COMPACT SIZE OF THE VR SERIES WINCH MAKES PACKAGING VERY EASY. THE STARTER BOLTS DIRECTLY TO THE BLOCK WITH THE INCLUDED FASTENER. AND THE MAIN POWER CABLE IS ATTACHED TO THE SOLENOID. A HIGH CURRENT WIRE IS ATTACHED TO THE ALTERNATOR TERMINAL AND RAN TO THE DRIVER'S SIDE OF THE RIG. THE KILL SWITCH HAS TWO POSTS ON IT. IT'S GONNA HAVE POWER COMING DIRECTLY FROM THE BATTERY ONTO ONE AND THEN THIS SECOND ONE WILL THEN BE THE OUTPUT FROM THE KILL SWITCH TO FEED THE REST OF THE BUGGY. BUT YOU NEED TO PAY ATTENTION TO WHERE YOU HOOK UP THE ALTERNATING CHARGING WIRE. IF I HOOKED IT UP TO THE POST THAT'S FEEDING THE REST OF THE CAR, WHEN YOU TURN THE KILL SWITCH OFF, EVEN THOUGH YOU'VE ISOLATED THE BATTERY, THE POWER FROM THE ALTERNATOR WILL KEEP THE ENGINE RUNNING. YOU DON'T WANT THAT. YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU TAKE THE CHARGING CIRCUIT FROM THE ALTERNATOR AND HOOK IT UP TO THE POST THAT'S GOING BACK TO THE BATTERY. THAT WAY WHEN YOU FLIP THE SWITCH THE RIG SHUTS DOWN. THE SWITCH IS MOUNTED TO ONE OF THE BUGGY'S BODY PANELS BY SIMPLY DRILLING A THREE QUARTER INCH HOLE INTO IT AND MOUNTING IT IN PLACE. WITH THE PANEL BACK IN PLACE, THE MAIN POWER WIRE FROM THE BATTERY, POWER FOR THE WINCH, AND THE CHARGING WIRE FROM THE ALTERNATOR ARE ATTACHED TO THE SAME LUG. AND NOW OUR BUGGY HAS A KILL SWITCH TO KEEP US SAFE WHEN WE'RE ON THE TRAIL.
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