Truck Tech Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

Dupli-Color
Adhesion Promoter, Flat, Clear, 11 oz. Aerosol, Each
Dupli-Color
Grease And Wax Remover, QT.
Dupli-Color
Paint, Engine, Enamel with Ceramic Resin, Semi-Gloss, Black, 12 oz., Aerosol, Each
Dupli-Color
Paint, Flexible Bumper Coating, Polyurethane, Satin, Black, 11 oz., Aerosol, Each
EBC Brakes
Brake Pads, Ultimax, Aramid-Fiber Metallic, Front, Jeep, Set
EBC Brakes
Brake Rotor, Premium Replacement, Solid Surface, Iron, Each
Kimberly-Clark Professional
Scott Pro-Shop Towel,Blue,Roll
Matco Tools
6531 - Separator Wedge 11 X 1-1/8 In
Matco Tools
WCE97203 - Wireless Chassis Ear
Motive Products
Power Fill Pro 1, Fluid Transfer Pump/Extractor, Gallon Size
PowerTrain Products
Re-engineered, Remanufactured, Chrysler, 4.7L, Engine
RockAuto.com
Monroe, Shock Absorber, w/o Police Package
RockAuto.com
Moog, Tie Rod Ends (inner/outer), Adjusting Sleeves, Track Bar
Royal Purple
Gear Oil, Max-Gear, Synthetic, 75W90, Quart, Each
The Industrial Depot
Industrial Depot - Fasteners, Hardware, And Shop Supplies

Episode Transcript

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY IT'S BUDGET TECH ON A HIGH MILEAGE CHEROKEE. WE'RE USING A CHASSIS EAR TO DIAGNOSE HARD TO FIND SUSPENSION PROBLEMS. THEN IT'S HOW TO MAKE AN EASY SERVICE DIFF COVER AND HOW TO REVIVE OUR JEEP'S FADED PLASTIC PARTS. IT'S ALL TODAY HERE ON TRUCK TECH.

(RYAN)>> NOW IF YOU'VE EVER HAD A NOISE COMING FROM UNDERNEATH YOUR VEHICLE SOMEWHERE BUT YOU CAN'T PINPOINT EXACTLY WHERE IT'S COMING FROM, YOU KNOW HOW FRUSTRATING THAT CAN BE.

YOU KNOW IT'S A PART THAT'S EITHER FAILED OR IT'S FAILING AND IT'S NOT GONNA FIX ITSELF.

NOW THIS '01 JEEP CHEROKEE BELONGS TO A GUY THAT WORKS WITH US, AND HE'S BEEN TELLING ME FOR THE LAST COUPLE OF MONTHS ABOUT THIS CLUNKING NOISE COMING FROM SOMEWHERE IN THE FRONT END THAT HE

CAN'T EXACTLY LOCATE AND FIX. SO TODAY WE'RE GONNA USE A COUPLE OF TOOLS TO TRY TO FIX THIS THING. THAT WAY HE CAN AVOID SPENDING $80 OR $100 BUCKS AN HOUR TO PAY SOMEBODY ELSE TO MAYBE HEAR WHAT HE'S TALKING ABOUT AND MAYBE FIX THE RIGHT THING. NOW OBVIOUSLY WE'RE GONNA GET OUR CHEROKEE UP ON THE LIFT AND GIVE IT A GOOD HANDS ON MECHANICAL INSPECTION. BUT SINCE I'M TOLD THIS IS A HARD TO FIND NOISE, WE'RE ALSO GONNA ENLIST THE HELP OF THIS WIRELESS CHASSIS EAR THAT WE PICKED UP FROM MATCO. BASICALLY THESE FOUR DIFFERENT TRANSMITTERS GET

CLAMPED TO DIFFERENT COMPONENTS IN THE GENERAL

AREA OF WHERE THE NOISE IS COMING FROM ON THE VEHICLE. THEN THESE CLAMPS TRANSMIT ANY VIBRATION, SLACK,

OR FREQUENCY INTO THE RECEIVER. AND YOU CAN SEE BY TAPPING ON THE NUMBER FOUR CLAMP, I'M NOT GETTING ANY AUDIO OR VISUAL CLUE FROM THAT SIGNAL. NUMBER TWO CHANNEL SAME THING, NUMBER THREE NOTHING, NUMBER FOUR GOOD SOLID SIGNAL. YOU CAN SEE HOW SENSITIVE IT IS.

LET'S GET THIS THING HOOKED UP.

ALRIGHT NOW I'VE CHECKED EVERYTHING OUT AND

EVERYTHING SEEMS TO BE IN PRETTY GOOD SHAPE DESPITE HAVING OVER 250,000 MILES ON IT. SOME OF THE TIE ROD ENDS MIGHT HAVE A SLIGHT AMOUNT OF PLAY BUT PROBABLY NOT ENOUGH TO CAUSE THE CLUNKING NOISE. NOW I'VE CHECKED EVERYTHING ELSE OVER, CAN'T FIND ANY OBVIOUS SOURCE OF THE NOISE. SO LET'S GET THE CHASSIS EAR HOOKED UP, TAKE THIS THING FOR A ROAD TEST. FIRST TRANSMITTER WE'LL CLAMP TO THE STEERING BOX. STRAP IT TO THE SWAY BAR.

GOOD ENOUGH FOR OUR ROAD TEST. THE SECOND ONE WE'LL CLAMP HERE NEAR THE

TRACK BAR CONNECTION.

THIRD ONE TO THE LOWER CONTROL ARM HERE. THIS FOURTH ONE WILL GO HERE ON THE FRAME SIDE, OR BODY SIDE, TRACK BAR MOUNT. SECURE IT TO THE SWAY BAR. GET THESE SUCKERS TURNED ON AND HIT THE ROAD.

ALRIGHT WITH THE FOUR TRANSMITTERS AT DIFFERENT POINTS UNDERNEATH THE VEHICLE, WE CAN CYCLE THROUGH THE FOUR DIFFERENT CHANNELS AND TRY TO PINPOINT WHERE THE NOISE IS COMING FROM AND HELP US WITH THE DIAGNOSIS. ALRIGHT SWERVE BACK AND FORTH, TRY TO GET THIS THING MAKE SOME NOISE, REPLICATE THE ISSUE.

ALRIGHT, SIGNAL ONE, OR CHANNEL ONE I'M BARELY PICKING UP ANYTHING. IT'S A SLIGHT NOISE, I DON'T THINK THAT'S THE ONE. ALRIGHT SWITCH TO CHANNEL TWO. OH YEAH, IT'S A LOT MORE PREVALENT ON CHANNEL TWO. YEAH EVERY TIME WE CHANGE DIRECTIONS I HEAR A PRETTY SOLID CLUNK. ALRIGHT, MAKE A NOTE OF THAT, CHANNEL TWO IS PRETTY STRONG. YEAH, EVERY TIME WE CHANGE DIRECTION. ALRIGHT LET'S SWITCH TO CHANNEL THREE. I THINK THIS IS THE ONE MOUNTED ON THE CONTROL ARM AND I'M NOT PICKING UP ANYTHING. IT'S PROBABLY PRETTY WELL ISOLATED, THE RUBBER BUSHING. ALRIGHT LET ME TRY FOUR. SWERVE BACK AND FORTH AGAIN LIKE YOU WERE. THERE'S A LITTLE SOMETHING THERE BUT IT'S NOT MUCH. IT'S DEFINITELY STRONGEST ON TWO. SO WE PROBABLY ISOLATED IT TO WHATEVER IS CLOSE TO THE NUMBER TWO RECEIVER. ALRIGHT NOW ON CHANNEL ONE AND CHANNEL FOUR I'M PICKING UP VERY FAINT SIGNALS, VERY SLIGHT AUDIO AND VISUAL CUES. ON CHANNEL THREE I'M GETTING ALMOST NOTHING, JUST KINDA LIKE ROAD NOISE COMING THROUGH. BUT CHANNEL TWO, THAT'S WHERE IT'S THE STRONGEST SO MORE THAN LIKELY OUR PROBLEM IS CLOSE TO THAT NUMBER TWO TRANSMITTER. ALRIGHT, NOW AFTER A QUICK TEST DRIVE, WELL IT WAS PRETTY CLEAR THAT THE MAJORITY OF THE NOISE WE WERE HEARING WAS COMING FROM THE AREA NEAR THIS NUMBER TWO TRANSMITTER, WHICH WAS RIGHT AT THE BASE OF THE TRACK BAR MOUNT. AND THE VIDEO CONFIRMED IT, THAT THIS TRACK BAR WAS MOVING AROUND A LITTLE BIT. AND IF YOU LOOK REALLY CLOSE, YOU CAN SEE SOME SHINY METAL WHERE EVEN THE BOLT WAS MOVING AROUND A LITTLE BIT. NOW YOU WOULD THINK THAT WE COULD FIX THAT JUST BY TIGHTENING UP THAT TRACK BAR BOLT. BUT I'VE ALSO PICKED UP A LITTLE BIT OF PLAY IN THE TIE ROD END AT THE FRAME END OF THE TRACK BAR. NO SIDE TO SIDE PLAY, BUT ENOUGH UP AND DOWN PLAY TO DEFINITELY NEED REPLACEMENT. I'VE ALSO PICKED UP A LITTLE BIT OF PLAY IN SOME OF THE OTHER TIE ROD ENDS AS WELL. SO WE'RE GONNA GET SOME NEW FRONT END PARTS ORDERED, GET THIS THING FIXED UP.

(ANNOUNCER)>> AFTER THE BREAK WE'LL INSTALL OUR NEW STEERING LINKAGE. AND LATER WE'LL MODIFY THE DIFF COVER TO MAKE GEAR OIL CHANGES EASY, STAY TUNED.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP.

WELL NOW THAT WE'VE GOT OUR HARD TO FIND SUSPENSION NOISE DIAGNOSED, IT'S TIME TO FIX THE PROBLEM. NOW SINCE THIS JEEP CHEROKEE IS JUST A DAILY DRIVER ON STOCK SIZE TIRES AND WHEELS, WELL THERE'S NO POINT IN PUTTING HEAVY DUTY AFTERMARKET

COMPONENTS ON IT. STOCK REPLACEMENT PARTS ARE MORE THAN SATISFACTORY. AND BUDGET WAS A CONCERN AS WELL. SO WE WENT TO ROCK AUTO DOT COM AND PICKED UP A BUNCH OF PARTS. WE'VE GOT A NEW DRAG LINK, TIE ROD, TRACK BAR, ROD ENDS, ADJUSTMENT SLEEVES, AND WE EVEN PICKED UP A COUPLE OF NEW SHOCKS JUST TO FRESHEN UP THE FRONT

END ALL AT ONCE. SO LET'S THROW SOME PARTS ON HERE, GRAB SOME TOOLS.

NOW TEAR DOWN IS PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWARD, AND LUCKILY FOR US WE DIDN'T HAVE TO FIGHT ANY RUST OR CORROSION DESPITE HAVING MANY, MANY MILES ON THIS THING. I WAS ABLE TO SEPARATE THE TIE ROD ENDS WITH A SWIFT SMACK OF THE HAMMER. BUT ON THE STEERING LINKAGE WHERE IT ATTACHES TO THE PITMAN ARM, I DIDN'T WANT TO RISK

DAMAGING THE BOX. SO AFTER REMOVING THE TIE ROD END NUT, I SEPARATED THE JOINT USING A PICKLE FORK WE GOT FROM MATCO. HOLD THIS ON HERE SO IT DOESN'T HIT THE FLOOR. JUST A COUPLE OF THREADS. NOW THE STEERING STABILIZER, BELIEVE IT OR NOT, IS STILL IN PRETTY GOOD SHAPE. SO WE'RE GONNA REUSE IT. I'LL JUST HAVE TO TRANSFER IT OVER TO THE NEW DRAG LINK.

NOW TO DISCONNECT THE TRACK BAR YOU NEED TO LOOSEN UP THE BOLT, AND DON'T LOSE THE FLAG NUT ON THE BACK SIDE OF IT. IF YOU LOSE IT OR BREAK IT YOU CAN USE A REGULAR NUT, BUT THE FLAG NUT IS CONVENIENT. THEN WE CAN GET STARTED INSTALLING SOME NEW PARTS, STARTING WITH THE NEW TRACK BAR. NOW TO HELP CENTER UP THE AXLE, AND LOCATE THE TRACK BAR AND LINE UP THE BOLT, I'M USING A HEAVY DUTY RATCHET STRAP. NOW ONCE YOU GET THE FLAG NUTS STARTED ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE BOLT IT BECOMES A ONE TOOL OPERATION, WHICH IS NICE. GOOD FOR NOW, I'LL WAIT UNTIL WEIGHT IN ON THE VEHICLE BEFORE TIGHTENING THAT COMPLETELY.

AND WHEN INSTALLING THESE NEW PARTS, DON'T FORGET THAT SOMETIMES YOU'VE GOT INSTALL THE ZERK FITTINGS YOURSELF. AND EVEN THOUGH THESE TIE ROD ENDS ARE NEW, IT'S ALSO A GOOD IDEA TO GIVE THEM A COUPLE OF SHOTS OF GREASE EVEN THOUGH THEY COME PRELUBED. AND DON'T FORGET THE COTTER PINS ON ALL THE CASTELLATED NUTS. AND THE LAST PIECE ON OUR STEERING REFRESH IS THE STEERING STABILIZER.

NOTHING A LITTLE PERSUASION WON'T FIX.

AND WITH EVERYTHING TIGHTENED DOWN, I CAN REMOVE THE RATCHET STRAP AND GET TO WORK INSTALLING THOSE NEW SET OF SHOCKS.

NOW THESE ARE JUST BUDGET FRIENDLY REPLACEMENT SHOCKS, BUT AT LEAST THEY DON'T HAVE A QUARTER MILLION MILES ON THEM.

ALRIGHT, JUST TIGHTEN EVERYTHING UP, WE'RE DONE. ALRIGHT, NOW WITH THE WEIGHT ON THE VEHICLE I WENT AHEAD AND TIGHTENED DOWN THE TRACK BAR BOLT. AND ALL WE'VE GOT LEFT TO DO IS A ROUGH TOEIN

ALIGNMENT SINCE WE MESSED WITH THE STEERING LINKAGE. THEN WE CAN DRIVE IT TO THE ALIGNMENT SHOP, AND WE'LL BE DONE.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. NOW WITH THE FRONT SUSPENSION KINDA ALL BUTTONED UP, WE'RE GONNA SHIFT OUR FOCUS TO THE REAR AXLE OF THIS CHEROKEE AND DO A LITTLE MAINTENANCE LIKE CHANGING OUT THE GEAR OIL. NOW ON A LOT OF VEHICLES THE DIFFERENTIAL HAS BOTH A FILL PLUG AND A DRAIN PLUG, MAKING SERVICING PRETTY EASY.

THIS THING ONLY HAS A DIFF COVER THAT YOU HAVE TO

REMOVE TO DRAIN THE FLUID, BUT IT DOES HAVE A FILL PLUG. SO WE'RE GONNA REMOVE THE COVER, LET ALL THE OLD FLUID DRAIN OUT. BUT BEFORE WE REINSTALL THE COVER WE'RE GOING TO

ADD A DRAIN PLUG TO MAKE SERVICING THAT MUCH EASIER.

THE GEAR OIL DOESN'T LOOK TOO OLD, THAT'S GOOD!

NOW I DIDN'T EXPECT THIS COVER TO FALL OFF BUT IT'S A LITTLE MORE STUBBORN THAN NORMAL. GOODNESS GRACIOUS, NO WONDER, LOOK AT THAT, LOOKS LIKE SOMEBODY'S A LITTLE HEAVY HANDED WITH THE RTV THERE. THIS THING'S GOT A LITTLE TUMOR ON OUR REAR AXLE. NOW TO CLEAN OFF THE SEALANT I'M USING A BRISTLE DISC ON A DIE GRINDER. IT DOES A GOOD JOB OF GETTING RID OF THE RTV WITHOUT GETTING INTO THE METAL SURFACE. NOW OUR LITTLE HOMEMADE DRAIN PLUG IS NOTHING MORE THAN A SEVENSIXTEENTHS BOLT AND NUT CUT DOWN TO THE RIGHT LENGTH, AND A LITTLE COPPER WASHER SO THINGS SEAL UP WITHOUT ANY SPECIAL GASKETS OR SEALERS. NOW FOR THE LOCATION OF OUR DRAIN PLUG, WELL WE OBVIOUSLY WANT IT ON THE BOTTOM OF THE DIFF COVER SO WE CAN GET ALL THE OLD FLUID OUT. BUT WE NEED TO STAY AWAY FROM THE RING GEAR, WHICH IS ABOUT RIGHT HERE ON THE DIFF COVER.

SO I THINK ANYWHERE IN BETWEEN THESE TWO BOLT HOLES WILL BE FINE.

THAT'LL BE A GOOD SPOT RIGHT THERE. AND AFTER DRILLING A SMALL PILOT HOLE, I SWITCHED UP TO A STEP BIT. THEY WORK REALLY WELL AT DRILLING METAL LESS THAN AN EIGHTH OF AN INCH THICK. IF YOU DON'T HAVE ONE, YOU MIGHT WANT TO ADD ONE TO YOUR ARSENAL. THEN SCUFF UP SOME OF THE DIFF COVER PAINT SO WE CAN WELD THE NUT INTO POSITION. THEN WE BROKE OUT THE WIRE BRUSH TO CLEAN THINGS UP A LITTLE BIT AND FOLLOWED THAT WITH A LITTLE DEGREASER AND A SCOTT PRO SHOP TOWEL BECAUSE IF WE'VE GO THE DIFF COVER RAW, MIGHT AS WELL PAINT IT. A LITTLE DUPLICOLOR BLACK MAKES THIS THING LOOK LIKE NEW. THEN WE REINSTALL THE DRAIN PLUG WITH THE COPPER WASHER AND SNUG THINGS DOWN. A LITTLE LOCTITE RTV TO SEAL THIS THING BACK UP. A LITTLE LESS THAT WHAT WAS ON HERE, NOT QUITE AS MUCH. I'M NOT GLUING IT BACK TOGETHER, JUST SEALING IT. NOW YOU COULD LEAVE THIS BEAD OF RTV ALONE, BUT I LIKE TO SPREAD IT OUT EVENLY ON THE FLANGE. THEN I TEXTURIZE IT JUST TO USE THAT AS AN INDICATOR ON WHETHER I'VE GOT ENOUGH RTV OR TOO MUCH. IF NEED BE, I CAN CORRECT THINGS.

HERE'S ONE FINAL TIP. ALRIGHT, NOW WE'VE GOT OUR DRAIN PLUG INSTALLED, WE'VE GOT OUR RTV DOWN, LAST THING WE'RE GONNA DO

IS DROP IN THIS SMALL MAGNET ONTO THE COVER SO ANY METAL PARTICLES FLOATING AROUND IN THE GEAR LUBE GET ATTRACTED TO THE MAGNET AND STAY THERE, INSTEAD OF GETTING UP IN YOUR BEARINGS AND GEARS.

NOW OUR NEW DRAIN PLUG IS GOING TO MAKE SERVICING THE DIFF EASIER.

ANOTHER THING THAT MAKES IT EASIER IS OUR MOTIVE PRODUCTS POWER FILL FLUID TRANSFER PUMP. SIMPLY PRESSURIZE THE CONTAINER, OPEN UP THE VALVE, AND OUR ROYAL PURPLE GEAR LUBE FLOWS AUTOMATICALLY. ALRIGHT!

DOUBLE CHECK HERE, YEP, FULL, RUBBER PLUG. DONE WITH THAT PART ANYWAY. NOW SINCE THIS CHEROKEE IS ESSENTIALLY A COMMUTER VEHICLE. IT DOESN'T TOW ANYTHING, IT DOESN'T HAVE A

SCREAMING VEIGHT UNDER THE HOOD OR GIANT TIRES

AND WHEELS, THERE'S NO NEED FOR REALLY AGGRESSIVE BRAKE PADS OR SLOTTED AND DIMPLED ROTORS. STOCK REPLACEMENT PARTS ARE MORE THAN ADEQUATE. SO WE PICKED UP SOME OF EBC ULTIMAX PADS AND THEIR STOCK REPLACEMENT ROTORS WITH THEIR NEW BLACK GEOMET COATING. WITH THE OLD BRAKES OUT OF THE WAY, PREPPING FOR INSTALLATION BY GETTING RID OF ANY RUST ON THE HUB TO MAKE SURE THAT THE ROTOR SITS NICE AND FLAT. NOW WE HAD SOME UNEVEN PAD WEAR. THAT'S DUE TO THIS INDENTATION HERE ON THE CALIPER GUIDE. WHAT'S HAPPENING IS THE INBOARD PAD IS BASICALLY HINGING ON THAT LOW SPOT, CAUSING THE PADS TO WEAR UNEVENLY. AND RATHER THAN DEAL WITH THE UNEVEN PAD WEAR OR REPLACE THE ENTIRE STEERING KNUCKLE, WE'RE GONNA FIX IT WITH A COUPLE OF TACK WELDS. THEN WE JUST GROUND THEM DOWN SO THEY WERE FLAT. NOW THE BOTTOM HAD A LOW SPOT TOO. WE FIXED THAT AS WELL. IT JUST WASN'T AS BAD AS THE TOP. WITH THE REPAIR YOU CAN SEE THAT THE PADS NOW MOVE FREELY ALONG THE GUIDES. TO FINISH THINGS UP WE APPLIED A LITTLE EBC ANTISEIZE TO THE PADS, INSTALLED THEM IN THE CALIPER, THEN HUNG IT OVER THE ROTORS. THEN WE CLEANED UP AND LUBRICATED THE CALIPER MOUNTING PINS. THAT'S WHAT ALLOWS THE CALIPER TO SLIDE BACK AND

FORTH ON THE MOUNT. ALRIGHT, NOW THE BOOTS BACK ON, WE'RE DONE!

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. WELL NOW THAT WE'VE GOT THIS THING IN GOOD SOLID SHAPE MECHANICALLY, WE'RE NOT GONNA LET IT OUT OF THE SHOP WITHOUT TAKING CARE OF A FEW COSMETIC ISSUES. FOR YOU GUYS THAT HAVE OWNED JEEPS FROM THIS ERA,

YOU KNOW THAT THE PLASTIC FENDER FLARES AND SOME OF THE TRIM WORK AND BUMPER CAPS, WELL THEY FADE FROM A GOOD LOOKING BLACK PLASTIC TO THIS DULL CHALKY GRAY LOOKING PLASTIC. IN ADDITION TO THAT, WELL THIS JEEP WAS INVOLVED IN A LITTLE BIT OF AN ACCIDENT AND THE RIGHT

REAR FENDER FLARE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. BUT RATHER THAN TRY TO PAINT THAT ONE TO MATCH

THE BODY COLOR, WE'RE JUST GONNA PAINT ALL FOUR FLARES IN A NICE BLACK ALONG WITH THE TRIM WORK

AND A COUPLE OF THE BUMPER CAPS. NOW BEFORE I EVEN GET STARTED TAPING THINGS OFF OR SCUFFING THE FENDER, I'M WIPING EVERYTHING DOWN WITH A WAX AND GREASE REMOVER. IF I DIDN'T, I WOULD JUST BE GRINDING CONTAMINATES INTO THE TEXTURE I'M CREATING WITH THE SCUFF PAD. I TAPE THINGS OFF AROUND THE PAINTED SURFACE SO I DIDN'T DAMAGE IT WITH THE SCUFF PAD. AND AFTER APPLYING THE MASKING TAPE WE CAN APPLY A LITTLE MASKING PAPER. AND IF YOU'RE DOING A JOB LIKE THIS AT HOME AND YOU DON'T HAVE PROFESSIONAL MASKING PAPER, WELL A ROLL OF TAPE AND A NEWS PAPER WILL GET YOU TO THE SAME SPOT, IT JUST MIGHT TAKE YOU A LITTLE BIT LONGER. NOW WITH EVERYTHING WIPED DOWN AND DRIED, I'M HITTING EVERYTHING WITH A LIGHT COAT OF ADHESION PROMOTOR TO HELP THE PAINT STICK TO THE PLASTIC. IT DOESN'T TAKE MUCH BUT I AM DOING TWO LIGHT COATS. THE SCUFF PAD GIVES THE FENDERS THE MECHANICAL ADHESSION IT NEEDS TO STICK, AND THE ADHESION

PROMOTOR HELPS PROVIDE A CHEMICAL ADHESION.

SO WE SHOULD END UP WITH PRETTY DURABLE RESULTS. AND FOR THE ACTUAL COATING I'M APPLYING IT IN THREE DIFFERENT STEPS.

THE FIRST COAT WAS A LIGHT MIST COATING. THE SECOND WAS A MEDIUM WET COATING. AND THE THIRD WAS A LITTLE HEAVIER YET FOR FULL COVERAGE.

NOW THE PRODUCT IS DUPLICOLOR'S BUMPER COATING BUT IT'S GIVING US GREAT RESULTS ON THE FENDER FLARES AND THE RUBBER IMPACT STRIPS. NOW IF THESE BUMPER CAPS OR ANY OF THE PARTS HAVE EVER BEEN WIPED DOWN WITH A TIRE SHINE TYPE PRODUCT,

MAKE SURE YOU'RE EXTRA THOROUGH IN THE CLEANING. OTHERWISE YOU'LL HAVE A HARD TIME GETTING PAINT TO STICK TO IT.

AND JUST LIKE THE REST OF THE PARTS WE'RE HITTING THESE WITH TWO COATS OF THEIR ADHESION PROMOTOR, AND FOLLOWING IT WITH A COUPLE OF COATS OF THE ACTUAL BUMPER COATING.

SINCE THESE ARE ALREADY BLACK OR KINDA BLACK TO START WITH, TWO COATS IS SUFFICIENT.

LET IT DRY AND THEY'LL BE READY FOR REINSTALLATION. ALRIGHT, WHILE THIS HIGH MILEAGE CHEROKEE HAS A FRESHENED UP FRONT SUSPENSION AND IT LOOKS A LOT BETTER THAN IT DID WHEN WE STARTED. AND THE COSMETIC FIX ONLY COSTS US A COUPLE OF HOURS OF OUR TIME AND A FEW CANS OF DUPLICOLOR. I'M REALLY DIGGING THAT BLACK SATIN LOOK. LOOKS LIKE A NEW ONE. NOW IF YOU'RE IN THE MARKET FOR A REMANUFACTURED FOUR POINT SEVEN LITER VEIGHT FOR YOUR DODGE OR JEEP VEHICLE, YOU NEED TO CHECK OUT POWERTRAIN PRODUCTS. NOW WHAT SEPARATES THEM FROM OTHER REBUILDERS? THEY DON'T JUST BRING THE ENGINE BACK TO FACTORY SPECS AND CALL IT DONE. IN ADDITION TO THAT THEY ALSO MAKE IMPROVEMENTS AND UPDATES ALONG THE WAY, LIKE INSTALLING UPDATED TENSIONERS AND GUIDES FOR THE TIMING CHAIN AND INSTALLING THE BETTER MULTILAYER STEEL HEAD GASKETS. THEY ALSO ADDRESS THE FAILURE PRONE VALVE SEATS THAT PLAGUED THESE FOURSEVENS, CHECK IT OUT.

THE FACTORY INSTALLED POWDERED METAL VALVE SEATS HAVE A TENDENCY TO FALL OUT OF THE CYLINDER HEAD, CAUSING CATASTROPHIC DAMAGE. SO DURING THE REMANUFACTURING PROCESS POWERTRAIN PRODUCTS INSTALLS A SOLID METAL SEAT, ELIMINATING THAT FAILURE POINT.

SO IF YOU'RE IN THE MARKET FOR A FOURSEVEN OR ANY

OTHER ENGINE, CHECK OUT POWERTRAIN PRODUCTS. THEIR ENGINES ARE DYNO TESTED AND BACKED UP BY A FOUR YEAR MILLION MILE PARTS AND LABOR WARRANTY. GUYS, THANKS FOR WATCHING TRUCK TECH, SEE YOU NEXT TIME.
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