HorsePower Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

3M
Sanding Pad, Scotch-Brite, Nylon, Maroon, 9 in. Length, 6 in. Width, General Purpose, Box of 20
Comp Cams
Cam/Lifters/Valve train, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 268/268, Lift .456/.456, Ford, 240, 300
Comp Cams
Valve Springs, Single, 1.400 in. Outside Diameter, 293 lbs./in. Rate, 1.125 in. Coil Bind Height, Set of 12
Dupli-Color
VHT, Paint, High-Temperature, Engine, Enamel, Gloss, Ford Light Blue, 11 oz., Aerosol Spray Can, Each
Goodson Shop Supplies
Bearing Scraper
Goodson Shop Supplies
Electronic Scale-4100G
Goodson Shop Supplies
Fixture to remove or install interference fit piston pins
Goodson Shop Supplies
Gas-Fired Rod Heater - Propane,Ceramic lined, enclosed heating area, One knob control, Includes regulator and hose assembly
Goodson Shop Supplies
Piston Pin Installing Fixture, Adjustable stop prevents over-centering rods
Goodson Shop Supplies
Rod Balancing Stand
Goodson Shop Supplies
Sioux-Style Valve Seat Grinding Kit
Holley
Terminator EFI Engine Management System, Speed Density, 4 Barrel, Square Bore, 950 cfm, 250 hp to 600 hp, Kit
King Engine Bearings
Cam Bearings, Steel Backed Babbit, Set
Loctite
Loctite Gasket Sealant, Aviation, 16 Oz.
Speedway Motors
Tru-Ram Big Block Chevy Exhaust Manifolds, Unpolished
Speedway Motors
Tru-Ram LS1 Exhaust Manifolds, Polished
Speedway Motors
Tru-Ram Small Block Chevy Exhaust Manifolds, Cast Iron
The Industrial Depot
Industrial Depot - Fasteners, Hardware, and Shop Supplies
Trick Flow Specialties
Cylinder Head, GenX 255, Aluminum, Assembled, 69cc Chamber, 255 cc Intake, GM, 6.2,.7.0L, Each
United Engine and Machine Company/Icon Pistons
Piston, Cast, Flat, 4.060 in. Bore, 5/64 in., 5/64 in., 3/16 in. Ring Grooves, Ford, L6, Each
WD-40
WD-40 300004 Specialist Rust Release Penetrant Spray, 11 oz.

Episode Transcript

(JOE)>> OLD REBUILDABLE ENGINES ARE REALLY GETTING HARD TO COME BY. WE JUST SCORED THESE FROM CNC RECYCLING FOR SOME UPCOMING HORSEPOWER BUILDS. ONE'S A CHRYSLER SLANT SIX, BUT TODAY'S CANDIDATE IS A FORD 300 INLINE SIX, AND IT'LL BE THE SECOND CLASSIC SIX WE'VE TACKLED FROM DETROIT'S BIG THREE. ( )>> ONE TOUGH TRUCK, FORD!

(JOE)>> AND FOR 31 YEARS MANY OF THOSE TOUGH TRUCKS

HAD ONE OF FORD'S TOUGHEST ENGINES. THE 300 CUBIC INCH INLINE WAS THEIR FOURTH GENERATION STRAIGHT SIX. INITIALLY PRODUCING 170 HORSEPOWER AND 283 FOOT POUNDS OF TORQUE.

WHILE IT POWERED EVERYTHING FROM DUMP TRUCKS TO TRACTORS, IN 1978 THE 300 BECAME THE BASE FSERIES ENGINE AND QUICKLY EARNED A REPUTATION FOR RELIABILITY AND ENDURANCE.

IT WAS EVEN THE ENGINE OPTION FOR THREE GENERATIONS OF FORD ECONOLINE. OH THE GRAPHICS, THE SHAG CARPET, THEY WERE ALSO OPTIONS. PRODUCTION ENDED IN 1996 WHEN THE VSIX TOOK ITS PLACE. EVEN TODAY THOUGH IT LIVES IN THE HEARTS OF FORD FAN'S

WHO REVERE ITS SIMPLE DESIGN, RUGGED CONSTRUCTION, AND LEGENDARY LOW END TORQUE. THIS ONE CAME OUT OF DUMP TRUCK, SO IT'S GOT A GOOD CHANCE OF HAVING A FORGED CRANK. THAT'S WHAT WE'RE HOPING FOR. BY THE LOOKS OF THE EXTERIOR AND WHAT WE SEE INSIDE THE BELL HOUSING.

(JOHN)>> OH, LOOK AT THE SURPRISES IN HER.

(JOE)>> I WOULD EXPECT THIS THING TO BE TOTALLY WORN OUT.

(JOHN)>> SOME ACORNS I THINK, A RAT'S NEXT, UUHH! NOW WE INITIALLY PLANNED ABOUT $1,500 BUCKS IN OUR BUDGET WORTH OF MACHINE WORK TO GET THIS THING GOOD AS NEW. BUT UNTIL WE GET INSIDE, WE REALLY HAVE NO IDEA. IT'S MUCH CLEANER THAN EXPECTED, AND THESE NEW SHIMS INDICATE A VALVE JOB AT LEAST. BUT THAT SHARP EDGE ON THE STEMS, WELL THAT SAYS

IT'S SOME TIME AGO. NOW THE PUSH ROD'S WHERE WE USE IT, SO LETS KEEP DIGGING. WITH SUCH A LONG CYLINDER HEAD, WARPAGE IS ALWAYS AN ISSUE. SO WE'RE GONNA REMOVE IT BY LOOSENING THE SAME WAY IT GETS TORQUED DOWN, FROM THE CENTER OUT.

AT THIS POINT THE AFTERMARKET HEAD GASKET IS NO SURPRISE, AND NEITHER ARE THE RUSTY CYLINDERS. WE CAN BREAK THEM LOOSE BY FILLING THEM UP WITH SOME WD 40 RUST RELEASE PENETRANT, AND CAREFULLY WORKING THEM BACK AND FORTH UNTIL THEY BREAK

LOOSE ON THEIR OWN. SO WITH THE TOP END SHOWING PROMISE, LETS SEE WHAT WE'VE GOT DOWN BELOW. NICE, THE GOOD NEWS IS THERE'S NO SLUDGE BUILD UP IN THE PAN AND THE PICK UP'S PRETTY CLEAN TOO. PLUS THE RODS HAVE RECENTLY BEEN GROUND

FOR BALANCING PURPOSES. AND THE BOTTOMS OF THE PISTONS LOOK ALMOST BRAND NEW. HERE'S THE BAD NEWS, THIS THIN PARTING LINE LETS US KNOW WE HAVE A CAST CRANK INSTEAD OF A FORGE.

(JOE)>> THAT DOES CHANGE OUR GAME PLAN SOMEWHAT.

IN FACT JOHN AND I HAVE DECIDED INSTEAD OF SPENDING THAT $1,500 DOLLARS ON MACHINE WORK, WE'LL FRESHEN THIS THING UP OURSELVES AND SPEND THAT CASH ON SOME GO FAST PARTS. OF COURSE ONCE WE GET THE CRANK OUT, WE'LL NEED TO SEND IT OUT FOR SOME POLISHING. ONE COOL FEATURE OF THESE 300'S IS INSTEAD OF A LIFTER VALLEY LIKE VEIGHTS, THEY HAVE A COVER ON THE SIDE OF THE BLOCK THAT ALLOWS ACCESS TO THE LIFTER BORES.

(JOHN)>> JOE THESE THINGS LOOK GREAT MAN. THEY LOOK BRAND NEW.

(JOE)>> NEXT TO COME OFF IS THE BALANCER AND THE TIMING COVER. THIS FACTORY GEAR SET LETS YOU KNOW EVEN MORE HOW THESE ENGINES ARE MADE TO LAST. SINCE THE GEAR IS PRESS FIT TO THE CAM SHAFT, THEY BOTH COME OUT TOGETHER. NOW WE'RE READY TO FLIP IT BACK OVER AND MARK ALL THE RODS. THAT WAY THEY GO BACK ON THE JOURNALS THE

WAY THEY CAME OFF. ONE OF OUR FIRST UPGRADE WILL BE RAISING COMPRESSION WITH NEW FLAT TOP PISTONS. IT'S ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA TO MAKE NOTE OF HOW THE PISTONS AND RODS ARE ASSEMBLED SO WE GET THE SAME ORIENTATION WHEN WE SWAP OUT THE PISTONS.

(JOHN)>> NEXT WE CAN LOOSEN AND REMOVE ALL THE MAIN CAPS. THE JOURNALS LOOK GREAT, AND THE CRANK WILL BE FINE WITH JUST A SIMPLE PARTS HOUSE POLISHING. AFTER A QUICK CLEAN UP THE BEARINGS LOOK THE SAME. NOW I'VE GOT A LITTLE TIP THAT I WANT TO SHOW SOME OF YOU GUYS THAT MAY NOT HAVE A HIGH DOLLAR SET OF MICROMETERS TO MIC CRANKS WITH. THE FASTEST WAY TO KNOW WHAT YOUR CRANK'S BEEN TURNED TO IS JUST SIMPLY TAKE A ROD BEAR AND A MAIN BEARING, FLIP THEM AROUND AND TURN THEM ON THEIR BACK. THE POINT 0-TWO-0 THEY STAMPED ON THE BACK OF THE BEARINGS LETS US KNOW THAT THE ROD AND MAIN BEARINGS ARE BOTH GROUND 20 UNDER. AT THIS POINT WE CAN ONLY GET AN INITIAL INSPECTION ON THE BLOCK AFTER WE WASH IT. WHEN WE COME BACK, WE'LL MAGNAFLUX IT AND CHECK FOR ANY CRACKS.

(JOHN)>> WE'RE BACK AND WE'VE GOT OUR BLOCK OUT OF THE WASHER FROM ITS INITIAL CLEANING. NOW IT LOOKS PRETTY GOOD BUT THERE'S A FEW THINGS THAT I SAW THAT I DIDN'T REALLY PAY ATTENTION TO WHEN WE WERE

TEARING THE MOTOR DOWN. KINDA LIKE THIS, IT'S AN EXPANDABLE FREEZE PLUG, WHICH IS A PRETTY GOOD INDICATION THAT THE REPAIR WAS DONE WITH THE MOTOR IN THE TRUCK. AND THAT'S BECAUSE WHILE IT IS EASIER TO JUST PUT ONE OF THOSE IN THERE AND TIGHTEN IT DOWN THAN TO HAMMER IN A NEW PRESS FIT TYPE. NOW THE OTHER ONE IS RIGHT HERE. YOU CAN SEE THE FREEZE PLUG IS PUSHED OUT ON THIS SIDE AND SUNK IN HERE. AND THIS RUST STAIN RIGHT HERE IS FROM WHERE IT'S BEEN LEAKING. NOW THIS TELLS ME THAT IT PROBABLY FROZE AND PUSHED

THE FREEZE PLUGS OUT. I KNOW THEY'RE MORE COMMONLY CALLED FREEZE PLUGS BUT I WANTED TO TAKE THE TIME TO CLEAN UP A LITTLE MYTH. THEY'RE NOT DESIGNED TO POP OUT OF THE BLOCK IN CASE YOUR WATER EVER FREEZES TO PREVENT A CRACK.

THEY'RE ACTUALLY THERE BECAUSE THE MANUFACTURERS NEEDED A WAY TO GET THE SAND OUT OF THE CASTING. EIGHT TIMES OUT OF 10, IF YOU PUSHED A FREEZE PLUG OUT

OF YOUR BLOCK, WELL YOU PROBABLY HAVE A SMALL CRACK IN IT. SO WE NEED TO GO AHEAD AND GET ALL THE PLUGS OUT, AS WELL AS THE OIL GALLEY PLUGS. THEN I'M GONNA GET RID OF THE PAINT IN ANY SUSPECTED AREAS. FINISH UP BY SANDING THE DECK SURFACE.

NOW IT'S FINALLY TIME TO SEE IF THE BLOCK IS EVEN WORTH REBUILDING. AND A MAGNAFLUXING KIT IS THE BEST WAY TO CHECK FOR CRACKS. WHAT IT DOES IS POSITIVELY CHARGE THE BLOCK SO THAT

WHEN YOU SPREAD THE METALLIC POWDER OVER IT, IF THERE IS A CRACK, WELL THE DUST GETS SUCKED INTO IT AND SHOWS YOU EVEN THE SMALLEST CRACKS. AND AFTER GOING OVER THE BLOCK FROM TOP TO BOTTOM, SIDE TO SIDE, I CAN'T FIND ANYTHING WRONG WITH THIS OLD 300 STRAIGHT SIX. SO WE CAN FINALLY GET IT LOADED BACK UP INTO THE WASHER FOR A THOROUGH CLEANING. THE LAST STEP IN PREPPING THIS BLOCK IS TO REMOVE THE GLAZE ON THE CYLINDER WALLS. WITH PLENTY OF WD 40, A BALL HONE IS RAN IN AND OUT IN A CONTINUOUS MOTION NEVER STOPPING IN ONE PLACE. SINCE WE'RE USING A CAST IRON RING SET, THE FINISH ISN'T THAT CRUCIAL. A GOOD CROSS HATCH PATTERN WILL INSURE A GOOD SEAT. AND YEAH, YOU GUESSED IT, A FINAL WASH. IT'S VERY IMPORTANT TO GO THROUGH THESE WASHING STEPS. YOUR LOCAL MACHINE SHOP CAN DO IT FOR YOU FOR ABOUT $35 BUCKS A POP.

NOW WE'RE FINALLY READY TO PREP OUR BLOCK FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY. NOW WE'RE GONNA BE STARTING WITH OUR CAM BEARINGS, AND WHAT I LIKE TO DO IS START FROM THE REAR AND WORK MY WAY TO THE FRONT. NOW IF YOU'VE GOT ANY QUESTIONS ON WHICH CAM BEARING GOES WHERE, THE BOX WILL ALWAYS TELL YOU. YOU SEE THE PART NUMBER RIGHT HERE IN BEARINGS ONE, TWO, THREE, FOUR?

WELL THAT LETS US KNOW THAT ALL THE BEARINGS ARE THE SAME SIZE. NOW EVEN THOUGH THESE ARE NEW, IT'S NOT UNCOMMON TO HAVE BAD SPOTS RIGHT HERE ON THE EDGES. SO BEFORE WE INSTALL THEM, I LIKE TO JUST PUT A SMALL CHAMFER ON THE INSIDE EDGE OF THE BEARING WITH A GOODSON BEARING SCRAPER. THIS WILL MAKE SURE THERE'S NO SHARPE EDGES TO ROLL OVER WHEN INSTALLING THE CAM.

AND WITH A LITTLE WD 40 ON THE BEARINGS WE CAN CAREFULLY KNOCK THEM IN. THEN WE CAN TOUCH THEM UP WITH A LITTLE BIT OF RED SCOTCH BRITE. AND WITH JUST A LITTLE OIL ON THE CAM JOURNALS WE CAN TEMPORARILY INSTALL IT AND CHECK OUR FITMENT. WE CHOSE TO GO WITH A CAM FROM COMP. IT'S A SINGLE PATTERN DESIGN WITH 456 THOUSANDTHS INCH OF

LIFT AND 219 DEGREES OF DURATION AT 50 THOUSANDTHS. AND AS EXPECTED SHE SPINS GREAT. THEN WE CAN LAY DOWN SOME FORD BLUE VHT ENGINE ENAMEL. AND AS ALWAYS, WE LIKE TO USE OLD TINS FOR MASKING SO SHE LOOKS GOOD AS NEW. NOW IT'S TIME FOR THE FREEZE PLUGS. AND TO KEEP THEM FROM PUSHING OUT LIKE THE LAST ONES WE'RE GONNA BE USING SOME LOCTITE AVIATION GASKET SEALANT. HERE'S ANOTHER CASE WHERE YOU REALLY NEED THE CORRECT

TOOL, WHICH IS A FREEZE PLUG INSTALLER. USE A HAMMER AND A SOCKET AND YOU MIGHT BE ASKING FOR PROBLEMS DOWN THE ROAD. NOW THE BLOCK IS FINALLY READY FOR ASSEMBLY, AND YOU'D BE SURPRISED HOW FUN IT CAN BE TAKING SOMETHING DESTIN FOR THE SCRAP YARD AND GIVING IT A BRAND NEW LIFE. BUT WE'RE NOT DONE JUST YET. THE HEAD IS COMING UP NEXT.

(JOHN)>> WE'RE BACK AND WE'VE COME PRETTY FAR ON OUR OLD 300 STRAIGHT SIX. NOW REMEMBER AT THE BEGINNING WE TOLD YOU WE'RE PROBABLY GONNA HAVE TO SEND THE CRANK OUT TO GET A PARTS STORE POLISH AS WELL AS THE VALVES TO GET THEM FACED.

SO THE FIRST THING WE NEED TO DO IS TEAR DOWN THIS HEAD. AND THIS GOODSON SPRING COMPRESSOR MAKES IT FAST AND EASY. NOW EVEN THOUGH THESE HEADS SHOW SIGNS OF BEING FRESHENED UP RECENTLY, I WANT YOU TO RESIST THE URGE TO JUST YANK THE VALVES OUT OF THE HEAD. OVER TIME THE VALVE TIPS TEND TO START MUSHROOMING, WHICH CREATES A VERY SHARP EDGE RIGHT HERE. NOW IF YOU WERE TO JUST TAKE THAT THING OUT THE WAY IT IS, YOU WILL RUIN THAT GUIDE. SO BY SIMPLY SPINNING THE VALVE THE KNOCKING OFF THAT SHARP EDGE WITH A FILE, WE CAN SAVE THE VALVE AND THE GUIDE FROM DAMAGE. NOW WE CAN GO AHEAD AND THROW THAT CYLINDER HEAD IN THE WASHER.

(JOE)>> SO NOW'S A GOOD TIME TO GO AHEAD AND SEPARATE OUR RODS FROM OUR PISTONS, AND THESE GET REPLACED WITH THESE FLAT TOPS FROM SUMMIT RACING THAT WILL RAISE OUR COMPRESSION. PLUS WE NEED TO CLEAN UP THESE RODS FOR REUSE. SINCE THEY ARE PRESS FIT, THE SAFEST WAY TO DO THIS IS USE A PISTON PIN TOOL AND A PRESS.

ONCE THEY'RE ALL SEPARATED, WE PUT THE RODS IN A BEAD BLASTER TO GET THEM CLEAN AND READY FOR THE NEXT TEST. WE'RE GONNA USE OUR GOODSON SCALE AND ROD BALANCING FIXTURE TO CHECK THE BALANCE OF OUR ROTATING ASSEMBLY.

FIRST WEIGHING AND MARKING ALL THE NEW PISTONS TO MAKE SURE THEY'RE WITHIN ONE OR TWO GRAMS OF EACH OTHER. THEN WE'LL SET UP TO WEIGH THE BIG ENDS OF THE RODS

TO SEE HOW FAR THEY ARE FROM EACH OTHER. ONCE WE FIND THE LIGHTEST ONE, WE'LL USE THE BELT SANDER AGAINST THE BALANCING PADS TO MAKE THE REST OF THEM WEIGH WITHIN TWO GRAMS OF THE LIGHTEST ONE. THEN THE SAME PROCESS WITH THE SMALL END. A GOOD WAY TO CHECK YOUR SMALL AND BIG IN NUMBERS IS

TO ADD THEM UP AND COMPARE THAT TO THE WEIGHT OF THE WHOLE ROD. IF THEY'RE THE SAME EVERYTHING'S CORRECT. SO WHY TAKE TIME TO DO ALL THIS? WELL IF YOU HAD A PISTON OR A ROD THAT WEIGHED

DIFFERENTLY THAN THE OTHERS YOU COULD HAVE AN ENGINE THAT'S OUT OF BALANCE, YOU COULD LOSE HORSEPOWER, AND

SHORTEN YOUR BEARING LIFE.

(JOHN)>> THE PISTONS AREN'T REALLY PRESSED ON.

WE FIRST HEAT UP THE ROD'S SMALL END SO IT EXPANDS A LITTLE. THEN USING THE PISTON PIN STOP WE CAN SLIDE THE PIN THROUGH THE PISTON AND THE ROD EASILY. ADD SOME OIL, AND WHEN IT COOLS THAT'S WHEN WE'LL HAVE OUR PRESS FIT. OUR INLINE FRESHLY CLEANED CYLINDER HEAD ALSO NEEDS

SOME QUALITY TIME IN THE BEAD BLASTER TOO, WITH SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE COMBUSTION CHAMBERS. THEN USING A FLAT BAR AND 80 GRIT SAND PAPER I WANT TO GO OVER THE DECK SURFACE TO GET IT AS SMOOTH AS POSSIBLE.

AND WHILE I'M AT IT THE INTAKE SURFACE AS WELL. THE HEADS NEED TO BE THOROUGHLY MAGNAFLUXED JUST LIKE WHEN WE DID THE BLOCK. WE'LL CHECK AROUND THE OUTSIDE, AND ESPECIALLY THE DECK AND COMBUSTION CHAMBERS. AND JUST LIKE THE BLOCK, IT'S IN GOOD SHAPE. THE NEXT THING WE WANT TO DO IS TAKE A LOOK AT THE CONDITION OF OUR GUIDES. NOW WE GOT PRETTY LUCKY ON THE EXHAUST SIDE. IT'S GOT A PRETTY HIGH DOLLAR REPAIR WITH A FALSE BRONZE GUIDE. NOW THE INTAKE SIDE HAS ACTUALLY GOT GUIDE LINERS PUT IN IT. SO IN THE INTEREST OF SAVING MONEY WE'RE GONNA REUSE THEM. NOW WE CAN TOUCH UP THE VALVE JOB, FIRST ON THE INTAKE SIDE. WE ADD A LITTLE DYECHEM, AND THEN GROUND A 45 DEGREE CCUT. THEN TOUCH UP THE 30 DEGREE TOP CUT. NOW WE'LL ADD SOME MORE DYECHEM AND LAP IN THE VALVES. NOW THE NEXT THING I WANT TO ADDRESS IS THE FACT THAT THESE CYLINDER HEADS ARE SET UP FOR PRESS IN STUDS. NOW WHEN YOU START DOING THINGS LIKE WE NORMALLY DO, ADD IN A BIGGER CAMS SHAFT, MORE SPRING PRESSURE, START RAISING THOSE RPM LEVELS, WELL THEY ARE GONNA FAIL. NOW WHAT USUALLY HAPPENS IS THEY'LL RIP THE STUD RIGHT OUT OF THE BOSS. NOW THE BEST WAY TO FIX THAT WOULD BE TO GO AHEAD AND SEND IT OFF, HAVE THEM RIPPED OUT, CUT DOWN, AND ADD SOME SCREW IN STUDS AND GUIDE PLATES. WELL THE PROBLEM WITH THAT IS IT'S REAL EXPENSIVE AND IT'S JUST NOT IN OUR BUDGET TODAY. SO I'VE GOT A LITTLE TRICK I WANT TO SHOW YOU THAT'LL MAKE THESE THINGS STRONGER AND ONLY COST ABOUT TWO DOLLARS. I'LL START BY FIRST USING AN AUTOMATIC CENTERING PUNCH JUST TO KEEP THE DRILL BIT FROM WALKING. THEN USING A 93 THOUSANDTHS DRILL BIT I'M GOING TO DRILL INTO THE BOSS THROUGH THE STUD. AND I LIKE TO GO ALL THE WAY THROUGH TO THE OTHER SIDE. THEN I TAKE A STEEL ROLL PIN, ADD A DROP OF LOCTITE, AND TAP THE PIN ALL THE WAY INTO THE BOSS AND USE A PUNCH TO MAKE SURE I'M IN BETWEEN THE STUD AND

BOSS ON BOTH SIDES. AND DRILLING ALL THE WAY THROUGH ALLOWS ME TO REMOVE THE PIN LATER IF I EVER WANT TO UPGRADE THE STUDS. I'LL FINISH THIS HEAD UP AND WE'LL BE READY TO ASSEMBLE, AND THAT'S COMING UP NEXT.

(JOHN)>> ALL THAT PREP WORK HAS FINALLY PAID OFF CAUSE WE'RE READY TO ASSEMBLE THIS HEAD. NOW NIGHT BEFORE WE DOUBLE CHECK OUR SPRING PRESSURE. NOW THE SPRINGS WERE SENT TO US BY COMP AND THEY'RE FOR THE CAM SHAFT WE'RE RUNNING AND THE CYLINDER HEAD WE'RE USING. BUT SOME OF YOU GUYS HAVE ASKED US, WELL HOW DO WE KNOW WHAT OUR TARGET INSTALL HEIGHT SHOULD BE OR WHAT THE SPRING PRESSURE GOAL SHOULD BE? WELL IT'S QUITE SIMPLE, IT'S ON THE BOX. AND WHAT IT TELLS US IS THAT AN INCHSEVEN HUNDRED INSTALL HEIGHT, WE SHOULD HAVE 80 POUNDS OF PRESSURE ON THE SEAT.

NOW BY USING MY INSTALL HEIGHT CHECKER I WENT AHEAD AND CHECKED NUMBER ONE EXHAUST AND IT CAME IN PERFECT AT AN INCHSEVEN HUNDRED. NOW THE INTAKE SIDE IS A LITTLE HIGH AT AN INCHSEVENTHIRTY. WITH OUR DIAL CALIPER SET AT AN INCHSEVENTHIRTY FOR A STOP, WE ONLY END UP WITH ABOUT 60 POUNDS ON THE SEAT. THAT'S NOT ENOUGH. SO BY SIMPLY ADDING A 30 THOUSANDTHS SHIM I'M ABLE TO CORRECT MY INSTALL HEIGHT AND BRING MY PRESSURE BACK UP. SO WITH OUR DIAL INDICATORS LOCKED BACK OUT AT AN INCHSEVEN HUNDRED IT BRINGS US RIGHT UP TO 80, WHICH IS PERFECT. NOW YOU CAN'T JUST CHECK TWO OF THEM. YOU REALLY NEED TO CHECK ALL OF THEM. ANY TIME YOU CHANGE OUT SPRINGS, TOUCH UP THE VALVE JOB, OR EVEN CHANGE THE LOCKS, IT WILL EFFECT THE INSTALL HEIGHT. AND WE SAW HOW JUST 30 THOUSANDTHS CAN BE WORTH 20 POUNDS. YOU GET THAT WRONG, YOU CAN HURT A MOTOR. NOW IT'S TIME FOR MY FAVORITE PART, THE ENGINE ASSEMBLY. BUT UNFORTUNATELY FOR TODAY THIS IS GOING TO BE WHERE WE QUIT. NOW A LOT OF YOU GUYS WROTE IN WANTING US TO DO A STRAIGHT SIX, AND THAT'S WHY WE'RE GOING TO. AND BY DOING ALL THAT WORK TODAY OURSELVES WE SAVED ENOUGH MONEY, WE'RE GONNA AFFORD SOME HIGH PERFORMANCE

PARTS LIKE A CARBURETOR, INTAKE, AND EVEN A SET OF HEADERS.

NOW WHEN WE GET THOSE IN WE'LL PULL THIS THING OUT, WE'LL ASSEMBLE IT, GET IT ON THE DYNO AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS. AND THAT'S SOMETHING YOU GUYS CAN LOOK FORWARD TO.

(JOE)>> AMERICA'S OLDEST SPEED SHOP IS NOW OFFERING A WAY TO ENJOY THE PERFORMANCE OF TUBE HEADER WITH A NOSTALGIC LOOK OF A CLASSIC RAM HORN. OF COURSE I'M TALKING ABOUT SPEEDWAY MOTORS, AND THIS IS THEIR TRUE RAM LS ONE HEADER WITH ONE AND THREE QUARTER INCH PRIMARIES THAT YOU CAN GET POLISHED OR UNPOLISHED. NOW THEY ALSO HAVE ONE FOR THE BIG BLOCK CHEVYS AS WELL WITH ONE AND SEVENEIGHTHS INCH PRIMARIES, AND THIS BUDGET FRIENDLY TRUE RAM CAST EXHAUST MANIFOLD FOR

SMALL BLOCK CHEVYS WITH ROUND PORT HEADS. NOW ALL SETS COME WITH STAINLESS STEEL HARDWARE AND OH YES, A PRICE, STARTING AT $300 BUCKS.

(JOHN)>> WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU COMBINE THE RACE WINNING TECHNOLOGY OF TRICK FLOW AND THE BEST FEATURES OF A GM LS THREE CYLINDER HEAD? WELL YOU GET THE GENX 255 FOR FOUR INCH AND LARGER BORE LS THREES. NOW THEY BOAST A 100 PERCENT CNC PORT JOB WITH COMPETITION IN MIND, AS WELL AS MOVE THE VALVE ANGLE TO 12 DEGREES AND CREASE AND PISTON THE VALVE CLEARANCE, ALLOWING YOU TO RUN A HOTTER CAM SHAFT. NOW IF YOU'VE GOT ANY MORE QUESTIONS ON THEM OR WANT TO CHECK OUT THE SPECS, YOU CAN CHECK IT OUT AT

SUMMIT RACING DOT COM.

(MIKE)>> ARE YOU READY TO LET THE TERMINATOR TAKE CHARGE OF YOUR ENGINE MANAGEMENT? WELL HOLLEY'S NEW TERMINATOR EFI IS A SELF LEARNING SYSTEM THAT'S MADE TO OPTIMIZE FUEL ECONOMY AND HORSEPOWER.

NOW THIS SYSTEM WILL SUPPORT UP TO 600 HORSEPOWER, AND THE THROTTLE BODY SHARES THE SAME INLET DESIGN AS THE NASCAR SPRINT CUP SERIES. NOW THE HARNESS IS ALL PLUG AND PLAY. THE SYSTEM WILL SUPPORT BOOST AND NITROUS, AND THE TAB IS RIGHT AT $2,000.

WELL IT'S TIME TO TERMINATE THIS SHOW, WE'LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME.
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