Parts Used In This Episode

ADDCO Manufacturing,Inc.
Performance Anti-Sway Bar Kit
Dupli-Color
New Ford Gray Engine Enamel with Ceramic Resins
Dupli-Color
Semi-Gloss Black Engine Enamel with Ceramic Resins
EBC Brakes
Bluestuff NDX Full Race Pads
EBC Brakes
UPR Series Replacement Rotors
Eibach
Pro-Kit Lowering Springs
Ford Performance Parts
427 C.I.D. Boss Short Block Assembly
Ford Performance Parts
Cast Aluminum Black Wrinkle Valve Covers
Matco Tools
Master Disconnect Set
Randy's Ring & Pinion
Detroit Locker Differential
Randy's Ring & Pinion
Yukon 4.10 Ring and Pinion Set
Randy's Ring & Pinion
Yukon 8.8 IRS Master Overhaul Kit
The Driveshaft Shop, Inc.
FORD Thunderbird 1989-1997 / Mustang Cobra 1999 600HP Complete Rear Axles
WD-40
WD-40 Smart Straw

Episode Transcript

(JOE)>> OKAY, SO IT'S NOT THE MOST POPULAR CHOICE FOR A PROJECT CAR, BUT WE JUST BOUGHT IT FOR $3,000. THE SELLER SAID IT HAD BEEN HAMPERED, SO IS THAT WHY THERE'S A HEAVY DUTY HITCH POKING OUT THE BACK? ANYWAY WE'VE GOT SNEAKY PLANS FOR THIS FORD MODEL THAT SURVIVED AN AMAZING 11 GENERATIONS. AMERICANS HAVE ALWAYS GONE APE OVER COOL NEW CARS. IN 1955 THE NEW THUNDERBIRD BEGAN ITS LONG HISTORY, THANKS IN PART TO THIS CAR. AS THE STORY GOES, A FORD VICE PRESIDENT SAW SECRET PHOTOS OF CHEVY'S NEW '54 CORVETTE. SO THE BLUE OVAL BOYS QUICKLY PRODUCED THEIR OWN VERSION OF A SPORT TWO SEATER. BILLED AS A PERSONAL LUXURY CAR, IT WAS POWERED BY 292 CUBIC INCH VEIGHT AND POWERED ITS WAY PAST THE VETTE IN SALES. AFTER THREE YEARS, FORD EXECS THOUGHT TWO MORE SEATS WOULD BRING IN MORE SALES, AND THEY DID. ( )>> THIS IS THE FIRST FOUR PASSENGER LUXURY CAR.

(JOE)>> IN 1960 A RECORD 92,843 SOLD. FOR GEN THREE ANOTHER NEW LOOK WITH A NEW 300 HORSE 390 FE ENGINE. THE FOURTH GENERATION WOULD BE THE LAST FOR CONVERTIBLES FOR A LONG TIME, AND HERE'S A LITTLE TBIRD TRIVIA. 120 SPECIAL ORDER MODELS CAME WITH THE FABLED 427 CUBE ENGINE. A BIG CHANGE IN '67 MOVING THE CAR UP MARKET WITH LUXURY AND LOOKS MORE IN LINE WITH A LINCOLN. THE NEXT VERSION WAS THE HEAVIEST AT 5,000 POUNDS AND THE LEAST FUEL EFFICIENT AT ABOUT 10 MILES A GALLON. GEN SEVEN SET ON THE TORINO'S OLD CHASSIS LOST 900 POUNDS AND A LOT OF POWER. GEN EIGHT, ANOTHER SEDAN WITH NICE TRIM. NINE GOT A MORE AERODYNAMIC LOOK BUT MECHANICALLY UNCHANGED. THEN CAME THE LONGEST LASTING GENERATION. BY THE MID '90'S, THESE BIRDS WERE BETTER HANDLING, MORE POWERFUL, AND FEATURED A LOAD DRAG COEFFICIENT. THAT'S WHY MANY WERE MODIFIED FOR DRAG RACING. MIKE GALLEY GOT HIS NHRA LICENSE IN A SUPER COMP VERSION AT ROY HILL'S RACING SCHOOL, AFTER A DOSE OF ROY'S INFAMOUS TONGUE LASHING. ( engine revving )

(ROY)>> YOU'RE WAY OUT OF THE GROOVE, WHY DO YOU NOT STOP THE CAR!

(JOE)>> AFTER ITS HIATUS, THERE WAS A THREE YEAR COME BACK THAT WAS MORE OF A SET BACK IN TERMS OF SALES, BUT IT WAS THE FINALLY OF A TREMENDOUS THUNDERBIRD LEGACY THAT FLEW FOR A HALF CENTURY AND LANDED OVER FOUR POINT FOUR MILLION CARS ON THE ROAD. ( )>> THUNDERBIRD, UNIQUE IN ALL THE WORLD!

(JOE)>> OUR TBIRD'S A 10TH GENERATION '97, AND YOU BETTER GET A GOOD LOOK AT IT NOW CAUSE WHEN WE'RE DONE WITH IT IT'S GONNA LOOK LIKE THIS. WHAT, DON'T SEE ANY CHANGES? WELL GOOD, THAT'S THE IDEA. YOU SEE WE'RE GONNA HAVE SOME FUN WITH THIS DEAL TURNING THIS MUNDANE PLAIN JANE BIRD INTO A SLEEPER THAT'S A WAKE UP CALL TO ANY HOT ROD STREET BULLIES. THESE CARS CAME OUT WITH EITHER A THREE POINT EIGHT VSIX OR LIKE OURS, A SINGLE OVERHEAD CAM MODULAR FOUR POINT SIX, WHICH WE'LL NO DOUBT REPURPOSE, THAT IS AFTER WE PULL IT OUT.

(MIKE)>> IN ITS PLACE WILL BE A MODERN VERSION OF THE LEGENDARY BLUE OVAL 427. NOW IT STARTS WITH THIS FORD RACING BOSS 351 SHORT BLOCK CONTAINING A SCAT FOUR INCH STROKE FORGED CRANK AND CONNECTING RODS. PLUS A SET OF MOLY FOUR POINT ONETWOFIVE INCH BORE PISTONS. NOW IT'S A FAT FOUNDATION FOR THE SERIOUS TOP END WE'RE GONNA GIVE IT LATER. OH, AND TO TOP IT ALL OFF, WE EVEN GOT SOME RETRO COBRA VALVE COVERS FOR EYE CANDY.

(JOE)>> GET THE OLD ENGINE PARTS OUT OF THE WAY STARTS ON TOP. BY THE WAY THE FAN'S GETTING A REPLACEMENT ALONG WITH THE RADIATOR. NOW WHEN YOU'RE REMOVING ENGINE PARTS FOR A SWAP, YOU WANT TO RESIST THE TEMPTATION TO GET IN A HURRY AND RIP EVERYTHING OUT. EVEN THIS FACTORY AIR BOX HAS A POTENTIAL EBAY CUSTOMER. CHECK HOW THIS MATCO DISCONNECT TOOL ENGAGES THE FUEL LINE QUICK RELEASE SO THE LINE PULLS RIGHT OFF. THEY'RE ALSO GREAT FOR REMOVING A/C LINES TOO.

(MIKE)>> WE BROKE THE A/C LINES LOOSE BECAUSE WE CAN'T USE THAT COMPRESSOR WITH THE NEW MOTOR SETUP ANYWAYS. NOW ONE THING WE DID DO IS SEND THE CAR TO THE LOCAL A/C SHOP BEFORE WE BROUGHT IT INTO THE STUDIO SO THEY COULD EVACUATE ALL THE REFRIGERANT. IT'S NOT SOMETHING YOU JUST WANT TO RELEASE INTO THE ATMOSPHERE.

(JOE)>> UNDERNEATH LETS FIRST GET THE ENTIRE EXHAUST SYSTEM OUT OF THE WAY. THE NEXT THING TO GO IS GONNA BE THE FACTORY FUEL TANK FOR A COUPLE OF GOOD REASONS. FIRST OF ALL WE CAN USE THE ROOM TO RUN A DUAL EXHAUST OUT BACK, AND WE CAN ALSO USE THE EXTRA REAL ESTATE ON THIS FOX CHASSIS TO INSTALL SOME BEEFY SUBFRAME CONNECTORS. WE'LL MOUNT A CELL IN THE TRUNK LATER ON TO FEED OUR 427. IT'S BEST TO DO THIS WITH A NEAR EMPTY TANK. OURS IS BONE DRY, AND AFTER DISCONNECTING THE LINES, IT'S FREE TO GO. THEN WITH THE SAFETY STRAPS OUT OF THE WAY, THE DRIVE SHAFT CAN COME OUT TOO. NEXT WE MAKE SOME ROOM FOR WORK UP FRONT.

LIKE FREEING UP THE SPINDLES AND THE SHOCKS. THE IDEA'S GONNA BE TO REMOVE THEM, THE ENGINE, THE KMEMBER, TRANNY, AND CROSS MEMBER ALL FROM THE BOTTOM.

(MIKE)>> COOL, KEEP COMING, STOP, COME BACK DOWN JUST A HAIR. KEEP COMING, OKAY.

ALL THE WAY UP. THE OLD TIRED FOURSIX.

(JOE)>> YEAH!

(MIKE)>> I'M REALLY IMPRESSED AT HOW CLEAN THIS WHOLE CAR IS. THE SUBFRAMES AND EVERYTHING, THERE'S NO ROT IN IT.

(JOE)>> FINALLY THE SURGERY'S COMPLETE AND THE PATIENT'S READY FOR A HIGH PERFORMANCE TRANSPLANT.

(JOE)>> THIS BIRD USED TO FLY WITH THE HELP OF A WELL WORN FACTORY FOUR POINT SIX BUT NO MORE. WE YANKED IT AND ITS TIRED TRANNY IN THE NAME OF SLEEPER SURGERY. NOW THE OPERATION MOVES OUT BACK, GETTING CALIPERS OUT OF THE WAY, SEPARATING THE UPPER CONTROL ARMS FROM THE SPINDLES, AND UNBOLTING THE SWAY BAR END LINKS. SEPARATING THE WHEEL HUBS FROM THE AXLES. THEN FREEING UP AND REMOVING THE SPINDLE ASSEMBLY. NEXT WE PRY THE AXLES LOOSE FROM THE PUMPKIN. INDEPENDENT REAR SUSPENSION, BY THE WAY, WAS A NEW FACTORY FEATURE FOR THIS GENERATION IMPROVING THE RIDE AND HANDLING. BUT WE'VE EVEN GOT AN UPGRADE FOR THE TWIN STOCK AXLES, AND OF COURSE NEW SPRINGS. NOW SUPPORTING THE REAR HOUSING WITH A STRONG SET OF HANDS, WE CAN UNBOLT AND REMOVE IT AS WELL.

(MIKE)>> THIS THING CAME WITH A 327 RING AND PINION GEAR AND A LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL, AND WE'RE GONNA SWAP IT OUT FOR THIS. IT'S A 28 SPLINE DETROIT LOCKER FROM EATON. NOW IT USES A HEAVY DUTY CASE AND INTERNALS FOR A SUPERIOR INCREASE IN STRENGTH. NOW UNDER HARD ACCELERATION IT PUTS POWER TO BOTH AXLES, AND WHEN YOU LET OFF IT RELEASES SO YOU CAN MAKE TURNS EASIER. NOW TO TRANSFER THE POWER FROM THE DRIVE SHAFT TO THE DIFFERENTIAL, WE'RE USING A SET OF 410 GEARS FROM YUKON ALONG WITH ONE OF THEIR INSTALL KITS TO DROP EVERYTHING IN. WE GOT IT ALL FROM RANDY'S RING AND PINION. BREAKING THE REAR COVER LOOSE IS LIKE CRACKING A ROTTEN EGG. THE FRICTION MODIFIER THEY USE IN THE FLUID CAN GET PRETTY STINKY. NOW WE NEED TO GO AHEAD AND REMOVE THE REAR CAPS AND PRY OUT THE OLD CENTER SECTION. NOW THIS ONE'S BEEN HERE FOR ALMOST 140,000 MILES, AND IT'S A LITTLE TIGHTER THAN USUAL. NOW WE CAN UNBOLT AND KNOCK THE DRIVE SHAFT FLANGE LOOSE TO FREE UP THE STOCK PINION. BEFORE MOVING ON I'M GONNA GIVE THE HOUSING A MUCH NEEDED SCRUB IN THE PARTS WASHER.

(JOE)>> WELL THAT'S A ONE MAN JOB AND SO IS THIS. WHILE THE ENGINE'S OUT OF THE COMPARTMENT, I'M GONNA CLEAN IT UP IN HERE AND LAY ON A NEW COAT OF PAINT, DARK SHADOW GREY. IT OUGHT TO MATCH! AND AFTER EMPTYING A CAN OF CLEANER AND APPLYING AN ENORMOUS AMOUNT OF RUBBING, IT'S FINALLY TIME TO APPLY SOME MASKING TAPE AND AT LAST, OUR DUPLICOLOR PAINT. OF COURSE YOU'VE GOT TO BE CAREFUL NOT TO OVERSPRAY, AND APPLY SEVERAL LIGHT COATS TO PREVENT IT FROM RUNNING.

(MIKE)>> BACK ON THE PUMPKIN, I NEED TO REMOVE THE STOCK PINION BEARING CUPS, KNOCKING ONE OUT FROM THE FRONT AND THE SECOND ONE FROM THE OTHER SIDE. I'M USING OUR HYDRAULIC PRESS TO SEPARATE THE REAR PINION BEARING FROM THE PINION. NOW THIS SHIM GETS REUSED ON THE NEW PINION, FOLLOWED BY A NEW REAR PINION BEARING. NOW WE CAN PRESS THE NEW ONE INTO PLACE. NOW I'M TAPPING THE NEW PINION BEARING CUPS INTO THE HOUSING IN PLACE OF THE ONES I KNOCKED OUT. THEN A NEW FRONT PINION BEARING, SOME OIL, A SLINGER, AND FRONT SEAL. NOW A PIECE OF EXHAUST PIPE HELPS TO TAP IT IN EVENLY. CHECK OUT THE VISUAL DIFFERENCE IN THE NEW 410 GEAR COMPARED TO THE STOCK 327. REMEMBER, THE BIGGER THE RATIO DIFFERENCE, THE SHORTER THE GEAR AND VICE VERSA. NOW THE NEW SHORTER 410 PINION GEAR HAS TO TURN AROUND FOUR TIMES TO MAKE THE RING GEAR GO AROUND ONCE. IT'S GREAT FOR FAST, QUICK LAUNCHES BUT USUALLY NOT GOOD FOR CRUISING BECAUSE THE ENGINE'S RUNNING AT A HIGHER RPM. NOW WITH THE HIGHER GEAR, THE STOCK 327, THE ENGINE'S RUNNING AT A LOWER RPM. SO IT'S BETTER ON GAS BUT SLOWER OFF THE LINE. THE NEW PINION GEAR CAN NOW GO INTO THE HOUSING, AND IT GETS BOLTED TO THE ORIGINAL DRIVE SHAFT FLANGE. NOW WE NEED TO CHECK THE PINION'S PRELOAD, WHICH NEEDS TO BE BETWEEN 14 AND 19 INCH POUNDS. WE'VE GOT A SATISFACTORY 18.5. THE NEW RING GEAR'S GOT 41 TEETH COMPARED TO THE STOCK GEAR'S 36. NEXT BACK TO THE PRESS, INSTALL NEW BEARINGS ON BOTH ENDS OF THE CARRIER. THEN WITH BEARING CUPS AND SHIMS, WE CAN DROP THE CARRIER ASSEMBLY INTO THE HOUSING. NOW BACKLASH IS THE AMOUNT OF FREE MOVEMENT THE RING GEAR CAN MAKE WITHOUT CONTACTING THE PINION GEAR. OURS IS SIX THOUSANDTHS, WHICH IS RIGHT IN THE BALLPARK. NEXT APPLY SOME GEAR COMPOUND AND TURN THE PINION TO CHECK THE TOOTH CONTACT PATTERN, WHICH SHOWS OUR PINIONS NOT TOO CLOSE OR TOO FAR AWAY. SO WE CAN LAY DOWN A BEAD OF LOCTITE SILICON AND REPLACE THE COVER FRESH FROM THE BLAST CABINET. THEN AFTER BOLTING IT UP AND TAPING UP THE AXLE HOLES, I'LL APPLY A LITTLE COAT OF PAINT.

(JOE)>> WHILE MIKE'S PAINT JOB DRIES, MINE'S ALREADY DRIED AND FINISHED. MAYBE NOT READY FOR THE SHOW CAR JUDGES, BUT AN IMPROVEMENT IF I DO SAY SO.

(JOE)>> HEY WE'RE BACK AFTER MODIFYING OUR SLEEPER BIRD'S REAR END. NOW IT'S TIME TO PUT IT BACK WHERE IT BELONGS. AND AFTER BOLTING IT SECURELY IN PLACE, WE'RE READY FOR SOME MORE UPGRADES INCLUDING AXLES. YEAH AND FOR THAT WE'RE STEPPING UP TO THESE 28 SPLINE STAGE TWOS FROM THE DRIVE SHAFT SHOP. WE'RE GONNA NEED THEM. THEY'RE DESIGNED AND BUILT TO HANDLE UP TO 600 HORSEPOWER. THAT'S THANKS TO A SPECIAL HARD SHELL AND A CHROMOLY FORGED TYPE BALL AND CAGE INNER C/V. THESE EIBACH SPORT SPRINGS ARE GONNA BRING THE RIDE HEIGHT DOWN AN INCH AND A HALF BUT STILL GIVE A STREET QUALITY RIDE. NEXT WE CAN SLIDE THE FACTORY SPINDLES OVER THE AXLES AND LOOSELY BOLT THEM TO THE LOWER CONTROL ARM. THEN RAISE THE CONTROL ARM ALL THE WAY UP TO BOLT THE SPINDLE TO THE UPPER ARM. WE'RE REPLACING THE WELL WORN STOCK SHOCKS WITH A PAIR OF GAS CHARGED KYB'S WITH TWIN TUBE CONSTRUCTION.

(MIKE)>> BRAKES ARE NEXT. FIRST EBC'S SLOTTED ROTORS. THEN AFTER REINSTALLING THE CALIPER BRACKET, SOMETHING NEW FOR US IN THE WAY OF BRAKE PADS. THESE BLUE STUFF NDX PADS COME WITH "V" GROOVES TO REMOVE GASES AND DEBRIS, AND THEY'RE MADE FROM A FIBER RACE MATERIAL THAT'S EASY ON ROTORS, WITHSTANDS EXTREME HEAT, AND HAS ONE OF THE FRICTION LEVELS IN THE INDUSTRY. THE LAST PIECE WE'RE ACTUALLY GONNA REPLACE ON THE BACK OF THE BIRD IS THE SWAY BAR. NOW THIS IS THE FACTORY ONE THAT CAME OFF OF IT. IT'S REAL NARROW AND NOT THAT STRONG. NOW CHECK THIS OUT. THIS IS WHAT WE'RE REPLACING IT WITH. NOW THIS PIECE CAME FROM ADCO AND IT'S DESIGNED TO REDUCE BODY AND IMPROVE HANDLING. THIS THING'S MADE FROM HARDENED HIGH CARBON STEEL AND COMES WITH URETHANE BUSHINGS AND HARDWARE. WHEN YOU START PUTTING A LOT OF POWER TO THESE EIGHT POINT EIGHT IRS'S, THIS AREA BACK HERE BECOMES A WEAK LINK. THAT'S BECAUSE THEY USE THE BACK COVER TO SUPPORT THE WHOLE CENTER SECTION. NOW I MADE THIS TEMPLATE, WHICH REPRESENTS A QUARTER INCH PIECE OF FLAT STEEL. BOLTS ARE GONNA GO THROUGH THE BACK COVER AND INTO THE CENTER SECTION. ANOTHER FLAT PIECE IS GONNA COME OUT AND ATTACH TO THESE BOLTS. THAT'S GONNA MAKE THIS WHOLE AREA A LOT STRONGER. NOW I FIRST TRANSFER THE TEMPLATE TO THE QUARTER INCH STEEL PLATING. THEN USE OUR PLASMA CUTTER TO BURN AROUND THE LINES I DREW. AFTER SMOOTHING THE EDGES, I MOVE OVER TO THE DRILL PRESS TO MAKE SOME HOLES WITH THE HELP OF A LITTLE WD 40. THEN I MAKE A SMALLER SUPPORT BRACKET ALONG WITH HOLES. AND AFTER A LITTLE FITTING, I'LL TACK THE BRACKETS TOGETHER AND FINISH WELDING IT UP ON THE TABLE.

(JOE)>> THAT'S IT FOR THE REAR END, BUT WE'VE GOT PLENTY MORE TO GO.

(JOE)>> OUR HORSEPOWER SLEEPER'S FINISHED OUT BACK. NOW WE CAN FOCUS ON SUBFRAME CONNECTORS TO PREVENT FLEX. FIRST WE'LL TIE INTO THE FRONT SUBFRAME, THEN EXTEND BACK TO HERE WHERE WE CONNECT TO A CROSS BAR THAT SITS EVENLY WITH THE BOTTOM OF THE DRIVE SHAFT TUNNEL AND WELDS TO THE INNER STRUCTURE. FINALLY TWO PIECES OF TUBING WILL GO BACK TO THE REAR SUBFRAME.

(MIKE)>> WE'VE GOT SOME INTERIOR TEAR DOWN TO DEAL WITH FIRST. IF WE DON'T PULL BACK THE CARPET, SCRAPE AWAY THE SOUND DEADENING MATERIAL, AND GRIND PART OF THE FLOOR BOARD DOWN TO BARE METAL, OUR PLASMA CUTTER COULD TURN A TBIRD INTO A FIREBIRD. NOW THIS IS ALL ABOUT MAKING ROOM FOR A PAIR OF ROUND TUBES THAT'LL CONNECT THE FRONT SUBFRAMES TO THE CROSS BAR WE'LL MAKE LATER ON.

(JOE)>> THIS CAR'S A LATE MODEL WITH A STRAIGHT FRAME, BUT HERE'S SOMETHING YOU OUGHT TO KNOW IN CASE YOU'RE WORKING ON AN OLD CLASSIC UNIBODY. OVER TIME A CAR LIKE THIS CAN ACTUALLY SAG IN THE MIDDLE. SO TO STRAIGHTEN AND STIFFEN IT UP, YOU NEED TO USE JACK STANDS AND THE ENGINE'S WEIGHT TO FIRST MAKE THE CAR LEVEL. THEN YOU CAN WELD UP YOUR SUBFRAME CONNECTORS, WHICH WILL ACTUALLY HELP KEEP IT STRAIGHT WHEN THE CAR'S BACK ON THE GROUND.

(MIKE)>> UNDERNEATH I NEED TO GRIND THE ENDS OF THE SUBFRAMES FLUSH SO I CAN BOX THEM IN WITH SQUARE PIECES OF STEEL. NEXT I'LL WELD A FOUR BY FOUR INCH PLATE ONTO EACH SIDE TO SUPPORT THE CROSS MEMBER, WHICH IS NEXT. FIRST CUTTING IT TO LENGTH, A LITTLE TEST FITTING, MAKING SURE IT'S LEVEL. THEN WE'LL TACK IT INTO PLACE BEFORE WELDING IT IN PERMANENTLY. I'M NOTCHING THE TUBE ENDS THAT'LL BE WELDED TO THE CROSS BAR AND I'M CHAMFERING THE OTHER ENDS WITH THE BELT SANDER. THIS ALLOWS YOU TO CREATE A DENSER WELD POOL RESULTING IN A STRONGER JOINT. THE NEXT STEPS ARE TO FAB UP TWO MORE BARS THAT CONNECT THE CROSS MEMBER TO THE CAR'S REAR SUBFRAME. NOW THIS WHOLE PROCESS HAS BEEN A LOT MORE TIME AND LABOR CONSUMING THAN A BOLT ON KIT WOULD HAVE BEEN, BUT THE STRUCTURAL BENEFIT TO HAVING ALL THESE WELDED BRACE POINTS ARE WELL WORTH IT.

(JOE)>> WELL NOW ALL THAT'S LEFT IS COVERING UP THE FLOOR BOARD HOLES WITH SOME TIN, AND THAT SUBFRAME CONCOCTION IS COMPLETE. NEXT TIME WE'LL MOVE FORWARD, FINISH UP THE FRONT SHOCKS AND BRAKES RIGHT ON THE ORIGINAL KMEMBER, OF COURSE AFTER WE GET RID OF THAT ENGINE AND TRANS. THEN COMES THE FUN PART, BUILDING A 427 FOR OUR TBIRD THAT'S ALREADY BEEN BLUE PRINTED FOR A COLLECTION OF PARTS THAT'LL HELP IT LIVE UP TO ITS NAME DEEP SLEEP. YOU'LL WANT TO STAY AWAY FOR THAT, SO WE'LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME.
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