HorsePower Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

3M
Sanding Pad, Scotch-Brite, Nylon, Gray, 9 in. Length, 6 in. Width, Ultra Fine, Set of 20
ARP
Rocker Arm Studs, High Performance, 3/8-24 in. Thread, 1.75 in. Effective Stud Length, Chevy, Small Block, Kit
Loctite
Threadlocker, Stick, Medium-Strength, Blue, 9 g, Each
Mr. Gasket
Porting and Polishing Kit, Deluxe Porting, 36 Pieces, Clear Plastic Case, Kit
Summit Racing
Porting and Polishing Kit, Cross Buff, 10 Pieces, Clear Plastic Case, Kit
7eye
AirShield Bali Safety Glasses
Goodson Shop Supplies
3/8" Pilot for Stud Boss Facer
Goodson Shop Supplies
Magnetic Powder - 1 lb. for use with MAGNAFLUX
Goodson Shop Supplies
Rocker Arm Stud Conversion Kit
Goodson Shop Supplies
Select Flex-Hone Diameter: 4.625" (117.5mm)
Goodson Shop Supplies
V8 Chevy Tap Guide
ITW Dymon
Dykem CL-BLUE Layout Fluid, ORM-D, 4oz Size
Las Vegas Tool
Las Vegas Tool - Easy Puller
Loctite
Medium Fine compound - For cylinder lapping
Matco Tools
.5 HP Extended Straight Die Grinder
WD-40
WD-40 12 oz. Aerosol Lubricant

Episode Transcript

(ANNOUNCER)>> SAVE MONEY AND DO IT YOURSELF. THAT'S WHAT TODAY'S HORSEPOWER IS ALL ABOUT. IT'S DIY ALL THE WAY, FROM HOME SHOP MACHINE WORK TO PORTING FOR POWER. YOU CAN DO IT AND HORSEPOWER CAN HELP. SORRY, HOME DEPOT!

(JOE)>> TODAY'S HORSEPOWER IS ALL ABOUT WORKING ON YOUR ENGINE WITHOUT GIVING YOUR WALLET TOO MUCH OF A WORKOUT. YOU SEE IN THE COURSE OF BUILDING AND MODIFYING DOZENS OF ENGINES ON THIS SHOW, WE PICKED UP SOME TIPS THAT YOU COULD USE ON JUST ABOUT ANY PROJECT YOU'VE GOT GOING. TIPS THAT'LL SAVE YOU MONEY AND MAYBE EVEN ADD SOME HORSEPOWER.

NOW THE BEST PLACE TO START IS AFTER THE BASIC TEAR DOWN AND BEFORE ANY MACHINE WORK.

(JOHN)>> ALL YOU NEED IS A HAMMER AND A CHISEL TO FREE UP THE FREEZE PLUGS. AND A PAIR OF PLIERS JUST TO PULL THEM OUT. ALL THE CAM BEARINGS HAVE TO BE KNOCKED OUT OF THE BLOCK AS WELL. NEXT THE OIL GALLEY PLUGS. OUR VORTEC BLOCK CLEANED UP PRETTY WELL, AND NOW WE'RE READY TO HANDLE SOME HOMEMADE MACHINE WORK.

(JOE)>> IF YOUR ENGINE BUILD PLANS INCLUDE NEW LARGER PISTONS, YOU'RE GONNA HAVE TO GO TO THE MACHINE SHOP TO HAVE A PROFESSIONAL BORE AND HONE JOB DONE ON YOUR BLOCK. BUT IF YOU JUST WANT A NICE FINISH ON YOUR CYLINDER WALLS WITH A CROSS HATCH FOR GOOD SEALING YOU CAN HONE THEM RIGHT AT HOME.

THE FIRST STEP OF COURSE IS TO MEASURE WITH A MICROMETER YOUR PISTONS AND CYLINDER WALLS AND RECORD ALL THOSE NUMBERS.

THEN IT'S ALL UP TO YOU AND A FEW PRODUCTS YOU CAN GET RIGHT AT THE PARTS STORE.

(JOHN)>> WE WANT TO GO OVER IT REAL GOOD WITH A FILE TO TAKE

CARE OF ANY HIGH SPOTS OR SHARP EDGES, WHICH IS WHERE CRACKS CAN START. PLUS A FLAT SURFACE IS ONLY GOING TO HELP

INSURE GOOD PAN SEAL. DON'T FORGET THE TIMING COVER RAILS TOO. IT MAY HAVE SOME LEFT OVER SILICONE OR GASKET MATERIAL. WE CAN NOW FLIP THE BLOCK OVER AND SAND THE DECK.

FIRST IT'S IMPORTANT TO PULL THE DOWEL PINS OUT. WITH 200 GRIT SAND PAPER AND A PIECE OF FLAT METAL, WE WORK THE BLOCK FRONT TO BACK AND CORNER TO CORNER.

NOW BEFORE WE GO ANY FURTHER WE NEED TO GO AHEAD AND CHECK FOR CRACKS. NOW WE'RE GONNA MAGNAFLUX THE BLOCK WITH A KIT WE GOT FROM GOODSON.

AFTER FILLING THE SPRAY BULB WITH THE METAL POWDER, PLACE THE MAGNET AGAINST THE AREA WE WANT TO CHECK FIRST. NOW SPRINKLE SOME POWDER AROUND. IF YOU HAVE A CRACK THEN DUST WILL COLLECT INSIDE IT AND EVEN THE SMALLEST CRACK WILL BE VISIBLE. AFTER THE DECK YOU WANT TO GO AHEAD AND REPEAT THIS PROCESS IN THE LIFTER VALLEY, ON THE MAINS, AND

INSIDE THE CAM TUNNEL.

(JOE)>> NO CRACKS SHOWED UP, SO WE CAN MOVE ON TO CHASING ALL THE BOLT HOLES, INCLUDING THE MAINS. FINDING GREASE AND GRIME IN THESE DURING ASSEMBLY CAN BE BAD NEWS. PLUS DOING THIS HELPS INSURE WE GET THE RIGHT TORQUE SPECS.

WE'RE GONNA NEED OUR PISTONS FOR THE NEXT STEP. SO AFTER WASHING THEM AND THE RODS IN SOLVENT, HERE'S A HANDY AT HOME TRICK. CUT AN OLD RING IN HALF AND USE IT AS A CLEANING

TOOL IN THE RING LANS. THEN YOU CAN GO OVER THE PISTON SKIRTS AND HEADS WITH SCOTCHBRITE. WHILE YOU CAN'T BORE AND HONE YOUR BLOCK THE WAY A MACHINE SHOP DOES, WITH A FEW SPECIALTY TOOLS YOU CAN PICK UP AT A PARTS STORE YOU CAN HONE THE CYLINDER WALLS ENOUGH TO KNOCK OFF THE GLAZE AND GIVE THEM A NICE SMOOTH FINISH WITH A CROSS HATCH FOR GOOD RING SEAL. START BY MIKING THE PISTONS AND WRITING DOWN THE MEASUREMENTS. THEN USE A BORE GAUGE IN THE CYLINDERS TAKING THREE READINGS FOR TAPER AND ANOTHER SIDE TO SIDE FOR ROUNDNESS. WRITE THE VARIANCE ON THE DECK. NEXT TAKE A THREE STONE CYLINDER HONE AND USING LOTS

OF WD 40 WORK THE CYLINDER WALLS UP AND DOWN SLOWLY.

MAKE SURE NOT TO STOP IN ONE AREA. RECHECK THE READINGS AND REMEMBER, WE'RE NOT TRYING TO

GET BIGGER, JUST SMOOTHER. THEN USE A PIECE OF SCOTCH BRITE TO GET ALL THE STONE GRIT OFF THE WALLS. NOW TAKE A BALL HONE FROM GOODSON TO REWORK THE WALLS. THIS TIME SPINNING THE BALL HONE IN REVERSE. THEN WITH A SMALLER BALL HONE WE CAN TOUCH UP THE LIFTER BORES.

(JOHN)>> I'M GONNA GO AHEAD AND FINISH SANDING THE DECK. THIS TIME I START WITH 80 GRIT DRY AND FINISHING UP WITH 200 USING WD 40. THEN A LITTLE MORE FILING AROUND THE EDGES.

I ALSO LIKE TO DEBURR THE TOPS OF THE CYLINDERS. IT'S JUST GOING TO HELP THE RINGS GO IN EASIER. ONE MORE FINAL TRIP TO THE WASHER BEFORE PREP THE BLOCK FOR ASSEMBLY.

(JOE)>> AS YOU PROBABLY KNOW, ALL THE POWERBLOCK SHOWS ARE AVAILABLE ON DVD. AND ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR HORSEPOWER SHOWS OF ALL TIMES WAS ONE WE PUT TOGETHER SOME TIME AGO, ALL ABOUT PORTING

AND POLISHING AT HOME. NOW HERE IS A CONDENSED VERSION OF THAT ALL TIME TECH TREATMENT THAT WILL NOT ONLY SAVE YOU MONEY BUT JUST MAY

FREE UP SOME HORSEPOWER IN YOUR CYLINDER HEADS. WHAT YOU'LL NEED TO GET IS AN ASSORTMENT OF STONES AND CARTRIDGE ROLLS IN VARIOUS SIZES. NOW WE GOT THESE IN A KIT FROM MISTER GASKET. (MIKE>> THIS IS A CARBIDE BURR SET THAT YOU WANT TO HAVE AROUND IF YOU PLAN ON REMOVING A LOT OF MATERIAL FROM YOUR HEADS AT THE VERY BEGINNING. NOW AT THE END, TO GET A NICE SMOOTH FINISH, A CROSS BUFF KIT IS ALWAYS GOOD TO HAVE. AND TO SPIN ALL OF THOSE YOU WANT A NICE DIE GRINDER THAT

FITS YOUR HAND GOOD THAT YOU CAN CONTROL. YOU'LL ALSO WANT EAR PROTECTION, A GOOD SET OF GLOVES, AND SOME BREATHING PROTECTION. THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO HAVE FOR THIS WHOLE JOB IS A GOOD SET OF SAFETY GLASSES. NOW THESE CAME FROM SEVENEYE, AND IT'S THEIR BALLY DESIGN. THIS INSERT GOES IN THE BACK SIDE LIKE THIS, AND WHEN ON, NO METAL CAN GET IN FROM THE TOP, THE BOTTOM, OR THE SIDES, SO YOUR EYES ARE ALWAYS PROTECTED. FOR OUR PORTING PROJECT WE'RE USING STOCK IRON HEADS FROM AN OLD CHEVY 350, WHICH WE NEED TO COMPLETELY DISASSEMBLE. NOW THIS IS IMPORTANT. BE SURE TO MARK THE VALVES SO THEY GO BACK WHERE THEY BELONG

WHEN YOU'RE READY TO REINSTALL THEM.

(JOE)>> MAN JUST LOOK AT THESE INTAKE VALVES. IMAGINE WHAT THOSE DEPOSITS ARE DOING TO THE FUEL RIGHT BEFORE IT ENTERS THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER, NOT GOOD. AND THE HEADS, WELL ALL THAT CARBON BUILD UP COULD GUM UP YOUR GRINDING CARTRIDGES AND PREVENT THEM

FROM REMOVING METAL. THERE'S NO WAY TO GET THEM THOROUGHLY CLEAN WITH SOLVENT AND A WIRE BRUSH, SO WE'RE USING OUR SHOP'S SONIC CLEANER. BUT FOR $20 BUCKS, A HOT TANK TREATMENT AT A MACHINE SHOP WILL GIVE YOU THE SAME RESULTS.

(MIKE)>> AFTER THE HEADS ARE CLEAN AND DRY WE NEED TO BRING THE INTAKE SURFACES DOWN TO BARE METAL. NOW A SCOTCH BRITE PAD IS THE QUICKEST, MOST EFFICIENT WAY TO GET THEM THERE. ALRIGHT, NOW IT'S TIME TO GET DOWN TO BUSINESS AND THE FIRST STEP IS OPENING THE INTAKE PORTS TO MATCH THE GASKET. COME OVER HERE, I'LL SHOW YOU WHAT I MEAN. WITH THE GASKET RIGHT WHERE IT NEEDS TO BE, YOU CAN SEE THE AMOUNT OF MATERIAL WE HAVE TO REMOVE FROM THE INTAKE PORTS.

(JOE)>> COVER THEM WITH MACHINIST BLUE OR DIE CHEM, BOLT ON A NEW GASKET. WE'RE USING MISTER GASKETS', AND SCRIBE AROUND THE INSIDE EDGE OF THE GASKET.

(MIKE)>> YOU'LL WANT TO HAVE YOUR GRINDER'S SPEED BETWEEN 10,000 AND 12,000 RPM'S OR YOUR GONNA BURN UP ALL YOUR CARTRIDGE ROLLS. NOW MOST DIE GRINDERS WILL RUN WIDE OPEN ABOUT 18,000 RPM. NOW YOU CAN REGULATE THEM THREE DIFFERENT WAYS. THE FIRST ONE IS AT THE AIR TANK ON A VALVE, THE SECOND WAY, AN EXTERNAL REGULATOR MOUNTED RIGHT AT THE BACK SIDE OF THE TOOL, OR LIKE WE'VE GOT, AN INTERNAL REGULATOR BUILT INTO OUR MATCO DIE GRINDER. NOW IF YOU LISTEN, YOU'LL SEE WHAT I MEAN ABOUT THE SPEED. [ grinder spinning ]

(MIKE)>> AT ABOUT HALF WAY DOWN YOU'RE IN THE BALLPARK.

(JOE)>> WE'RE GONNA START WITH THE STONE IN OUR GRINDER, AND THE IDEA IS TO REMOVE THE MATERIAL INSIDE THE SCRIBE MARKS.

THEN HERE'S WHERE SOME FINESSE COMES INTO PLAY. YOU WANT TO BLEND OR FEATHER THE NOW LARGER PORTS AND ONLY GRIND ONE TO ONE AND A HALF INCHES INTO IT. REMEMBER, IT'S BETTER TO GO OVER IT SEVERAL TIMES MODERATELY THAN WITH ONE HEAVY PASS OR ELSE YOU COULD TURN YOUR HEAD INTO A HEAVY PIECE OF JUNK.

(MIKE)>> WE'RE INSIDE OF OUR SCRIBE MARKS, EVERYTHING LOOKS GOOD.

(JOE)>> NOW THAT THE ENTRY PORT'S ENLARGED, YOU WANT TO SWITCH TO THE LESS COARSE CARTRIDGE ROLLS TO SMOOTH THINGS OUT AND GO IN A LITTLE FURTHER. YOU MIGHT START WITH THE 40 GRIT FOR THE FIRST PASS, THEN CHANGE IT TO AN 80 GRIT TO FINISH UP.

(MIKE)>> NOW FOR THE OTHER SIDE OF THE RUNNER YOU WANT TO BE REALLY CAREFUL NOT TO GET INTO THE VALVE SEAT AREA AT

ALL OR YOU'RE GONNA SPEND THE EXTRA MONEY FOR A VALVE JOB.

NOW YOU CAN SEE A LOT OF ROUGH CASTING DOWN IN THIS AREA. WE'RE GONNA GET RID OF ALL THAT. AND UP HERE ON THE SHORT SIDE RADIUS THERE'S A RIDGE AND A LITTLE RISE. WE'RE GONNA GET RID OF THAT AND MAKE IT A NICE, SMOOTH TRANSITION.

(JOE)>> UNLESS YOU SEE ROUGH CASTING BUMPS, YOU DON'T WANT TO WORK ON THE AREA BETWEEN HERE AND THE PORT OPENING. THAT MIDDLE AREA NEEDS TO STAY COARSE TO PROMOTE FUEL ATOMIZATION. IT MAY TAKE A COMBINATION OF STONES AND CARTRIDGES TO COMPLETE THE RADIUS AND BOWL WORK. MOSTLY IT'LL TAKE TIME, SO BE PATIENT.

SINCE ATOMIZATION ALSO OCCURS IN THE BOWL AREA, WHILE YOU WANT TO GET RID OF ANY CASTING BUMPS YOU WANT TO LEAVE IT A LITTLE ROUGH TO THE TOUCH. THE LAST STEP, KNOCKING DOWN THE SHARP EDGES OF THE VALVE GUIDE. SO BY WORKING INDOORS AND SITTING DOWN, YOU WENT FROM THIS TO THIS, LOOKING BETTER, STARTING TO FLOW BETTER,

AND WELL WE ONLY HAVE SIX MORE TO GO.

(JOE)>> HEY WELCOME BACK. WELL WE JUST SHOWED YOU HOW TO PORT AND POLISH THE INTAKE

PORTS OF YOUR HEADS. I KNOW IT'S A LOT OF WORK, ESPECIALLY WITH EIGHT CYLINDERS TO HANDLE. BUT SAY, YOU'RE HALF WAY THERE. NOW HERE'S THE HOW TO FOR YOUR EXHAUST PORTS AND THE COMBUSTION CHAMBERS. THE FIRST STEPS ARE THE SAME WITH DIE CHEM BLUING ON THE SURFACE SCRIBED INSIDE THE GASKET, AND ENLARGE THE PORT OPENINGS TO MATCH THE GASKET, FOLLOWED BY THE CARTRIDGES TO SMOOTH OUT THE WALLS. UNLIKE THE INTAKE PORT WHERE WE NEED A LITTLE ROUGHNESS FOR ATOMIZATION, WE NEED TO WORK THE EXHAUST PORTS ALL THE WAY THROUGH. THAT'S BECAUSE CARBON AND RUST CAN BUILD UP ON THE WALLS

AND IMPEDE EXHAUST FLOW. WE HAVE THREE MORE STEPS TO GET THAT REALLY SLICK SHINNY FINISH WE WANT. FIRST A FLAPPER FROM OUR MISTER GASKET KIT. THEN WE LOAD UP A MEDIUM GRIT CROSS BUFFER, AND THESE ARE

VERY SENSITIVE TO GRINDER SPEED. SO KEEP IT AT ABOUT 10,000 RPM.

THE LAST STEP, CHANGE TO A FINE GRIT BUFFER. WE APPARENTLY DON'T NEED IT BUT YOU CAN USE WD 40 AS

A LUBRICANT TO HELP THE BUFFER GIVE A FINAL FINISH. WELL NOW LETS FLIP IT OVER AND WORK ON THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER SIDE. AGAIN, YOU'VE GOT TO BE CAREFUL NOT TO TOUCH THE VALVE SEAT. HERE'S WHERE WE NEED A MORE POINTED CARBIDE BIT JUST TO GET INTO CREVICE BETWEEN THE WALL AND THE VALVE GUIDE. THEN SMOOTH IT OUT WITH A CARTRIDGE ROLL BEFORE

BUFFING AND POLISHING. THE COMBUSTION CHAMBERS ALSO NEED THAT NEAR MIRROR FINISH FOR A COUPLE OF REASONS. FIRST THE CARBON DEPOSITS BUT ALSO TO GET RID OF SHARP EDGES THAT COULD COST PREIGNITION. NOW BEFORE YOU JUMP IN WITH THE GRINDER THOUGH, HERE'S AN IMPORTANT TIP. INSTALL A COUPLE OF JUNK INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES THAT FIT OT PROTECT THE VALVE SEATS. ZIP TIES ON THE STEMS WILL KEEP THEM IN PLACE. NO NEED TO USE THE STONE HERE UNLESS YOU NEED TO UNSHROUD THE VALVES. START WITH A CARTRIDGE ROLL TO SMOOTH THE EDGES WHERE THE CHAMBER MEETS THE DECK. THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO REMEMBER IN COMBUSTION CHAMBER WORK IS REMOVE AS LITTLE MATERIAL AS POSSIBLE. EVERY BIT OF METAL YOU TAKE AWAY INCREASES CHAMBER DISPLACEMENT AND REDUCES COMPRESSION RATIO, WHICH ALSO REDUCES POWER. BEFORE WE PUT THAT GRINDER AWAY THOUGH CHECK YOUR WATER JACKETS. OURS ARE OKAY, BUT IF YOU'VE GOT DEPOSITS LEFT IN HERE YOU CAN IMPROVE COOLING BY GETTING RID OF IT.

(MIKE)>> WHEN WE REASSEMBLE OUR HEADS WE'RE GONNA REUSE THE ORIGINAL VALVES. NOW INSTEAD OF SPENDING A BUNCH OF MONEY AT THE MACHINE SHOP TO GET A COMPLETE VALVE JOB DONE, HERE'S THE NEXT BEST WAY YOU CAN DO IT AT HOME AND SAVE SOME MORE CASH. NOW IT'S CALLED VALVE LAPPING AND WHAT YOU'LL NEED IS SOME LOCTITE LAPPING COMPOUND.

OURS IS FINE GRIT, A LAPPING TOOL, WHICH IS BASICALLY A SUCTION CUP ON THE END OF A HANDLE, AND SOME DYE CHEM LAYOUT FLUID TO GET A GOOD VISUAL OF THE WORK YOU'RE GONNA DO. THE FIRST STEP IS BRUSHING SOME DIE CHEM

ON THE VALVE SEAT. THIS WILL ALLOW YOU TO SEE THE LAPPING PATTERN AND KNOW WHEN THE SEAL IS GOOD. NEXT UP PLACE SOME LAPPING COMPOUND ON THE VALVE.

NOW SLIDE THE VALVE INTO ITS ORIGINAL LOCATION AND ATTACH THE LAPPING TOOL. WITH A LITTLE PRESSURE START WORKING THE TOOL BACK AND FORTH LIKE YOU WOULD WARM YOUR HANDS. NOW AFTER ABOUT 20 TO 30 SECONDS, PULL THE VALVE FROM THE SEAT AND LOOK AT THE PATTERN YOU MADE. IF THERE IS A SHINY SURFACE ALL THE WAY AROUND THE VALVE AND SEAT, YOUR JOB IS DONE. IF NOT, THERE'S A GOOD CHANCE YOU HAVE BENT VALVE THAT'LL NEED TO BE REPLACE.

IF YOU DON'T HAVE A LAPPING TOOL, HERE'S THE NEXT BEST THING, A PIECE OF VACUUM HOSE. JUST STICK THE VALVE IN FROM THE BOTTOM, PUT THE HOSE OVER THE STEM JUST BELOW WHERE THE LOCK'S KEPT SO IT HOLDS THE HOLES IN PLACE.

PULL A LITTLE FIRM PRESSURE AND DO THE SAME HAND WARMING MOTION YOU DID BEFORE AND YOU'LL BE ABLE TO LAP YOUR VALVES. GOD I LOVE SAVING MONEY.

(JOE)>> HEY WELCOME BACK.

THE PORT AND POLISH WORK WE JUST SHOWED YOU WAS GOOD FOR 11cc MORE RUNNER VOLUME, NOT TO MENTION THE SMOOTHER WALLS WE CREATED THAT PROMOTE BETTER FLOW. WELL CAN'T STOP NOW. TIME TO PORT MATCH THAT INTAKE MANIFOLD. BY NOW YOU'RE FAMILIAR WITH THE FIRST STEPS, LAYING DOWN THE DYE CHEM AND SCRIBING AROUND THE INSIDE OF THE MANIFOLD INTAKE GASKET. SINCE THE INTAKE IS MADE OF ALUMINUM, WE START WITH A WIDE GROOVE CARBIDE BURR TO REMOVE MATERIAL FROM THE PORT ENTRY. SINCE ALUMINUM IS SOFTER THAN IRON, TAKE IT EASY KEEPING THE TOOL MOVING WITH VERY LITTLE PRESSURE AND USE PLENTY OF WD 40.

HERE'S A WAY TO INSURE AN EVEN PATH INTO THE PORT. BEND A PIECE OF WELDING WIRE TO MATCH THE HORIZONTAL AND VERTICAL MEASUREMENTS OF THE GASKET.

THIS'LL HELP YOU KEEP THE DIMENSIONS ACCURATE IN THE PORT AS YOU GRIND. SO YOU JUST GRIND, MEASURE, GRIND, UNTIL EVERYTHING'S EVENLY ENLARGED.

WELL YOU ALREADY KNOW THE NEXT DRILL. BLEND THE RUNNER WITH CARTRIDGE ROLLS FOLLOWED UP BY BUFFERS. CHECK THE DIFFERENCE, IT'S LIKE COMPARING

CORN GRITS TO GRAVY. AND YOUR COST TO DO THIS HEAD AND INTAKE WORK? WELL THE PORT AND POLISH KIT, HOT TANKING, AND GASKETS ADD UP TO RIGHT AT $100 BUCKS.

COMPARE THAT TO ABOUT $700 BUCKS FOR A PROFESSIONAL JOB. MONEY YOU CAN SPEND ON FUN STUFF LIKE A HOT CAM, VALVETRAIN, CARBURETOR, WHEELS, YOU'LL THINK OF SOMETHING.

(ANNOUNCER)>> BUILD ON A BUDGET, HORSEPOWER PROJECTS THAT SAVE YOU TIME AND MONEY.

(MIKE)>> CAN YOU BELIEVE GM'S MADE OVER 90 MILLION SMALL BLOCK VEIGHTS SINCE THEIR DEBUT IN 1955? WELL THEY KEEP MAKING A GOOD THING BETTER BUT IF YOURS WAS BUILT BEFORE 1970 HERE'S SOMETHING THAT NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED. IF YOU PLAN ON PUTTING A BIGGER CAM SHAFT AND STIFFER SPRINGS IN THE CYLINDER HEAD, YOU COULD RUN INTO A PROBLEM. THE FACTORY ROCKER ARM STUDS ARE PRESSED IN WITH AN INTERFERENCE FIT, AND THEY'VE BEEN KNOWN TO PULL OUT AT HIGH RPM'S. SO TO FIX THE PROBLEM WE'RE GONNA REPLACE THEM WITH THESE

NEW STRONGER ARP SCREW IN STUDS. BUT FIRST WE HAVE TO PULL THE ORIGINAL STUD. NOW TO DO THAT WE'RE GONNA USE THE STUD PULLING TOOL WE GOT FROM GOODSON AND A COUPLE OF EXTRA WASHERS BECAUSE OF THE HEIGHT OF THE STUD. NOW USING THE ORIGINAL ROCKER NUT YOU CAN PUT THAT ON AND TIGHTEN IT DOWN.

NOW AS THAT TIGHTENS IT'LL PULL THE STUD OUT.

(JOE)>> BUT NOT ALL THE WAY.

ONCE YOU FEEL IT SPINNING YOU'LL NEED ADDITIONAL WASHERS TO FIT THE NUTS.

(MIKE)>> AT THE DRILL PRESS AND WITH THE HEAD LEVEL, USE A THREEEIGHTHS DRILL BIT TO ENLARGE THE STUD BORES. NOT TOO DEEP THOUGH, THE INTAKE RUNNERS ARE JUST BELOW THE STUD BOSSES. NOW WE CAN MEASURE THE LENGTH OF THE HEX AND ARM RADIUS ON THE ARP STUD, WHICH IS 340 THOUSANDTHS, AND THAT'S HOW MUCH COMES OFF THE TOP OF THE STUD BOSS TO COMPENSATE FOR IT. FOR THAT WE'RE GONNA USE THE GOODSON RESURFACING TOOL AND A DRILL PRESS.

IT HAS A PILOT SHAFT THAT ALIGNS TO DEAD CENTER INTO THE DRILLED HOLE. USE A SLOW DRILL SPEED AND LUBRICATE THE CUTTER WITH WD 40 ALONG THE WAY. AGAIN MAKING SURE THE HEAD'S LEVEL, USE THE NINESIXTEENTHS BY 14 TAP WHEN YOU CUT THE NEW THREADS INTO THE BOSSES, AND INSTALL THE ARP STUDS WITH LOCTITE SEALANT AND TORQUE

THEM DOWN TO 45 FOOT POUNDS. NOW WHEN YOU FINISH WITH THIS PROCEDURE YOU'RE GONNA HAVE A HEAD THAT CAN HANDLE A LOT MORE LIFT AND A LOT MORE SPRING PRESSURE, AND YOU'RE NOT GONNA HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT AN OLD STUD PULLING OUT. NOW THIS SAME PROCEDURE GOES FOR BIG BLOCK CHEVYS, SMALL BLOCK FORDS, PRETTY MUCH ANYTHING WITH A PRESSED IN STUD. BELIEVE ME, IT'S WELL WORTH THE TIME.

(JOE)>> WELL WE'VE GOT TO GET GOING CAUSE TIME'S UP. WE'LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME.
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