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Episode Transcript

(NARRATOR)>> THIS WEEK TRUCK TECH CONTINUES ON THE 1930 FORD MODELA HOT ROD PICK UP TRUCK. PLUS HOW TO BUILD YOUR OWN WELDING TABLE.

(JEREMY)>> TODAY WE'VE GOT A FEW COOL THINGS IN STORE FOR YOU. WE'VE GOT TWO DIFFERENT BUILDS IN TWO TOTALLY DIFFERENT STAGES, AND TODAY WE'RE GONNA MAKE A LITTLE HEAD WAY ON BOTH OF THEM.

(LT)>> WE'LL BE SPENDING THE MAJORITY OF OUR TIME ON THIS, OUR 1930 FORD MODELA HOT ROD PICK UP TRUCK. NOW RECENTLY WE CHOPPED THE TOP, AND I THINK THAT YOU'RE JUST A LITTLE BIT TALLER THAN IT NOW, BUT AS BUMPUS SAYS, IT'S STILL NOT LOW ENOUGH, RIGHT?

(JEREMY)>> THAT'S RIGHT!

(LT)>> SO WE'RE GONNA TAKE CARE OF THAT, BUT TO MAKE IT HAPPEN THERE'S A PIECE OF SHOP EQUIPMENT WE DON'T HAVE. SO WE'RE GONNA BUILD THAT TOO.

(JEREMY)>> YEAH, AND IF YOU REMEMBER THE LAST TIME YOU GUYS SAW THE KFIVE WE DID A LITTLE BIT OF PAINT WORK, WE SET THE BODY DOWN ON THE CHASSIS, AND WE HUNG AND ALIGNED SOME SHEET METAL. NOW THE KFIVE'S OUT IN THE BOOTH READY FOR A LITTLE PRIMER, AND THAT'S WHERE WE'RE GONNA START, BUT BEFORE WE GET TO THE BLAZER WE'RE GONNA TALK A LITTLE BIT ABOUT PRIMER. IN THE AUTOMOTIVE INDUSTRY TODAY THERE'S FOUR PRIMERS YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT, AND IT'S IMPORTANT TO KNOW WHAT EACH ONE OF THEM DO CAUSE IF YOU USE ONE OF THEM IMPROPERLY IT COULD RUIN THE END RESULT OF YOUR PAINT JOB. NOW THE FIRST ONE UP IS AN ETCH PRIMER. THIS IS A GREAT DTM PRIMER, WHICH MEANS DIRECT TO METAL. IT'S A GOOD FOUNDATION IF YOU PLAN TO LAY DOWN A HIGH BUILD PRIMER BECAUSE SOME OF THOSE AREN'T DTM, BUT NOT ONLY THAT, IF YOU HAVE A PANEL THAT'S IN BARE METAL AND IT'S GONNA SIT FOR A WHILE AND YOU DON'T WANT IT TO SURFACE RUST ON YOU, THIS IS A GOOD COAT TO LAY DOWN. NEXT UP IS EPOXY PRIMER. NOW THIS IS MY GO TO PRIMER WHEN I HAVE BARE METAL. IT'S A GREAT FOUNDATION COAT. IT'S GONNA PROTECT THAT FRESH BARE METAL, BUT NOT ONLY THAT, IT'S A GOOD GROUND COAT TO BUILD UPON. WE CAN ADD FILLERS AND OTHER MATERIALS ON THE TOP OF IT, BUT THESE TWO PRIMERS AREN'T DESIGNED TO LAYER UP AND BLOCK DOWN TO GET A LEVEL SURFACE. THEY'RE NOT REALLY MEANT TO SAND ON, BUT THAT'S WHERE OUR HIGH BUILD PRIMERS COME IN. THIS IS A URETHANE HIGH BUILD SURFACER. THIS IS ONE OF THE PRIMERS YOU CAN USE OVER YOUR FILLER WORK. IT'S MADE TO GO DOWN IN LAYERS AND THEN TO BE BLOCKED FLAT TO THE LEVEL OF YOUR PANEL, AND WHEN APPLIED PROPERLY YOU GET A DECENT MILL THICKNESS OUT OF THIS AND IT'S REALLY EASY TO WET SAND, BUT THE PRIMER THAT I LIKE TO USE TO GET A LASER STRAIGHT FINISH IS POLYESTER. THIS STUFF BUILDS LIKE CRAZY, IT CAN TOLERATE A VERY HIGH MILL THICKNESS, IT'S REALLY STRONG, AND IT DOESN'T SHRINK, BUT NOT ONLY THAT, SOME OF YOUR POLYESTERS CAN BE TOP COATED, AND LIKE THIS POLYESTER, IT'S ACTUALLY A DIRECT TO METAL. SO YOU CAN ACTUALLY ELIMINATE A COUPLE OF STEPS JUST BY USING THIS, AND THIS IS WHAT WE'RE GONNA LAY DOWN ON OUR BLAZER. THIS POLYESTER PRIMER MIXES FOUR TO ONE WITH A CATALYST. THE GUN I'M USING HAS A TWO POINT TWO TIP. IT'S IMPORTANT TO USE THE RECOMMENDED SIZE SO THAT THE THICK PRIMER SPRAYS OUT OF THE GUN PROPERLY. ANOTHER THING I DO DIFFERENTLY FROM SPRAYING BASE OR CLEAR IS OPEN THE FLUID KNOB ON THE GUN ALL THE WAY UP. THIS WILL MAKE SURE WE'RE TRANSFERRING A NICE, THICK COAT ONTO OUR PANEL, AND I'M SPRAYING THIS AT 30 PSI AT THE INLET OF THE GUN, AND THE BLAZER BODY GETS THREE COATS. ALL RIGHT, WE'VE GOT OUR LAST COAT OF PRIMER LAID DOWN ON THE BLAZER AND IT LOOKS REALLY GOOD, AND HOPEFULLY IT'LL BLOCK OUT THE FIRST TIME AND BE READY FOR PAINT, BUT IT NEEDS TO SIT IN THERE AND CURE FOR A LITTLE BIT. AS FAR AS THESE PARTS GO I PRIMED THESE A FEW DAYS AGO. THEY'VE HAD TIME TO SET UP SO WE CAN START WORKING ON THEM. SO KNOW WE CAN START THE MOST FUN YOU'RE EVER GONNA HAVE BUILDING A TRUCK, BLOCK SANDING. AND YOU'LL NOTICE, THERE'S NO LT AROUND BECAUSE IN REALITY IT'S NOT THAT MUCH FUN. IT'S A LOT OF HARD WORK, BUT IT IS ONE OF THE MOST CRITICAL STEPS TO GET THE OUTCOME WE WANT ON OUR BLAZER, AND TO ACCOMPLISH THIS WE'RE GONNA USE AN ASSORTMENT OF BLOCKS BECAUSE THERE'S A LOT OF DIFFERENT CONTOURS ON THE BLAZER. WE'LL NEED EVERYTHING FROM ROUND BLOCKS, FLAT BLOCKS, YOU NAME IT, AND WE'VE GOT A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT GRADES OF SAND PAPER, BUT THE FIRST THING WE'RE GONNA DO, LAY DOWN SOME GUIDE COAT. I'M USING A DRY GUIDE COAT. NOW THERE'S ALSO A WET GUIDE COAT, BUT I USE THE POWDER WHEN I PLAN TO DRY SAND. NOW SINCE OUR HOOD IS A LONG, FLAT PANEL I'M USING ONE OF THE LONGER BLOCKS, AND WE'LL START WITH 180 GRIT SAND PAPER. I'M USING A CROSS HATCH MOTION. THIS WILL ENSURE WE'RE BLOCKING THE PRIMER DOWN EVENLY. YOU WANT TO LET THE BLOCK DO THE WORK FOR YOU. IT DOESN'T TAKE MUCH PRESSURE TO GET THE JOB DONE. OKAY, AFTER BLOCKING ON THE PANEL FOR A MINUTE, MOST OF THE GUIDE COAT HAS WENT AWAY BUT YOU CAN SEE THAT THERE ARE FEW SPOTS THAT ARE LEFT BEHIND. NOW THIS IS TELLING ME THERE'S A LOW SPOT IN THE PANEL. JUST A VERY SMALL IMPERFECTION, BUT LUCKILY FOR US WE PUT ON THE RECOMMENDED AMOUNT OF PRIMER. SO THERE'S ENOUGH STACKED UP ON THE PANEL THAT WE CAN CONTINUE BLOCKING AND LEVEL OUT THESE AREAS, AND GET A PERFECT FINISH, AND WITH A LITTLE MORE BLOCKING THIS AREA OF THE HOOD IS LEVEL. I'M USING GUIDE COAT ONE LAST TIME, AND APPLYING 320 GRIT PAPER TO THE BLOCK. THEN ANOTHER ROUND OF SANDING, AND ALL I'M DOING HERE IS GETTING RID OF THE 180 GRIT SCRATCHES. OKAY NOW THAT'S WHAT THE FINISHED PRODUCT SHOULD LOOK LIKE TO PREPARE THESE PANELS FOR PAINT, BUT AS YOU CAN SEE, I'VE STILL GOT QUITE A BIT OF WORK TO DO. SO I'M GONNA GET AFTER IT. WHERE IS LT?

(NARRATOR)>> IF YOU CAN'T BUY EXACTLY WHAT YOU WANT, BUILD IT YOURSELF. COMING UP, A HOME MADE WELDING TABLE.

(LT)>> EARLIER WE MENTIONED THAT WE'RE GONNA BE WORKING ON THE MODELA TO GET IT JUST A LITTLE BIT CLOSER TO THE GROUND. WE ALSO MENTIONED THAT WE'RE GONNA BE NEEDING SOME NEW SHOP EQUIPMENT TO MAKE THAT HAPPEN, AND OUR MATERIALS HAVE JUST SHOWN UP. [ horn beeping ]

(LT)>> BUMPUS, OPEN UP!

(JEREMY)>> AND TO GET THAT MODELA CLOSER TO THE GROUND MEANS DRASTIC MODIFICATIONS FOR OUR FRAME. SO WE NEED A LEVEL PLATFORM THAT WE CAN ATTACH OUR FRAME TO, PULL MEASUREMENTS, AND MAKE SOME CUTS. SO WE'RE GONNA BUILD A TABLE.

(LT)>> WE'LL GET EVERYTHING LAID OUT ON THE GROUND AND SHOW YOU WHAT WE HAVE IN MIND. WE WENT DOWN TO OUR LOCAL METAL SUPPLIER AND WE PICKED UP THIS FOUR BY EIGHT SHEET OF QUARTER INCH THICK STEEL. NOW THIS WILL ACT AS THE TOP SURFACE OF THE TABLE AND IT'LL BE NICE AND STURDY. TO SUPPORT FROM UNDERNEATH WE GRABBED A BUNCH OF THREE INCH SQUARE 120 WALL TUBING. THIS IS GOING TO BE THE MAIN STRUCTURE OF OUR TABLE. NOW WE HAD EVERYTHING CUT TO THE RIGHT LENGTH. SO WE DON'T HAVE TO MESS AROUND WITH ANY TRIMMING. WE CAN JUST GET DOWN TO IT, SQUARE IT UP, AND BURN IT ALL TOGETHER.

(JEREMY)>> THIS TABLE WILL BE SIMPLE TO ASSEMBLE BECAUSE IT'S ALL RIGHT ANGLES AND SQUARE CUTS. ALL WE NEED FOR NOW IS A CARPENTER SQUARE AND A FEW TACK WELDS.

(LT)>> I APPRECIATE YOUR COMPLIMENTS BUT IS IT SQUARE?

(JEREMY)>> LOOKS SQUARE TO ME. [ welder crackling ]

(LT)>> SO WE'VE DECIDED THAT WE'RE GONNA RUN THREE BRACES ON THE INSIDE IN ADDITION TO THE TWO ON THE OUTSIDE. NOW WITH OUR DIMENSIONS THAT MEANS EACH OF THESE NEED TO BE 22 AND ONE QUARTER INCHES APART CENTER TO CENTER. 22 AND ONE QUARTER, 44 AND A HALF, 66 AND THREE QUARTERS, FINALLY 89! WE'LL SQUARE UP THE CENTER SUPPORTS AND TACK THEM IN. AFTER THAT IT'S A WELDING PARTY AS WE FULLY BURN IN ALL THE JOINTS.

(JEREMY)>> WE'LL MEASURE SIX INCHES FROM THE END AND MARK FOR THE LEGS. WE'LL SQUARE THEM UP AND TACK WELD THEM TOGETHER, AND IT'S THE SAME PROCESS ON ALL FOUR CORNERS. NEXT WE'LL MAKE A MARK FOR A SUPPORT THAT GOES IN BETWEEN EACH OF THE LEGS, AGAIN, AT SIX INCHES.

(LT)>> IT'S A TIGHT FIT AND ONE MORE TACK WELD HOLDS IT IN SOLID. ON THE OTHER SIDE A HAMMER IS NEEDED TO PERSUADE THE METAL INTO ITS FINAL POSITION. WE'LL CLAMP IN A SCRAP PIECE AS A SUPPORT, AND WITH THE FINAL LONG CROSS MEMBER IN PLACE AND TACK WELDED, OUR TABLE BASE IS ASSEMBLED.

(JEREMY)>> WE'RE GOING TO WELD EVERYTHING TOGETHER USING OUR MULTI MATIC 215 PLUGGED INTO 220 VOLT, AS WELL AS OUR MILLER MATIC 252, BOTH USING 75/25 ARGON AND COTWO FOR THE SHIELDING GAS.

(LT)>> IN ORDER FOR THE TOP PLATE TO SIT FLAT ON ITS BASE IT'S IMPORTANT THAT WE GRIND ALL THE WELDS FLAT UP TOP.

(JEREMY)>> YOU KNOW, IT'S A GOOD THING I WORK OUT.

(LT)>> GOOD TO GO!

(JEREMY)>> USING SOME LARGE CCLAMPS, THE TOP IS SECURED TO THE BASE AND ATTACHED WITH MORE WELDING. OKAY FOR A LITTLE OVER $500 BUCKS AND IN A SHORT AFTERNOON WE'VE GOT A HANDY TOOL TO HAVE AROUND THE SHOP. IT'S GONNA HELP US OUT TODAY WITH THE MODS WE PLAN TO DO TO THE MODELA, BUT NOT ONLY THAT, THIS TABLE WILL LAST US A LIFETIME. [ welder crackling ]

(NARRATOR)>> WE ADDED SOME ADDITIONAL MODIFICATIONS TO OUR PLANS WITH THE STREET ROD PROJECT. WE'LL TELL YOU WHAT THEY ARE.

(JEREMY)>> WITH OUR TABLE COMPLETE WE CAN MOVE ON TO THE TASK AT HAND, GETTING OUR MODELA CLOSER TO THE GROUND. NOW THE THREE INCH CHOP LOOKS REALLY GOOD BUT THE CAB STILL SITS TOO HIGH OFF THE GROUND, AND IT LOOKS KIND OF AWKWARD. NOW THERE'S MANY WAYS TO FIX THIS. SO WE JUST NEED TO DETERMINE HOW LOW WE NEED TO GO.

(LT)>> SOMETIME AGO WE TOOK A TRIP DOWN TO RICKY BOBBY'S ROD SHOP, AND WE LOOKED AT A COUPLE OF HIS FINISHED PRODUCTS, AND THERE ARE A LOT THAT WE LIKE. SO WE DID SOME MEASURING AND WE FIGURED OUT THAT WE WANT THE ROOF OF OUR TRUCK TO BE 50 INCHES OFF THE GROUND, AND RIGHT NOW IT'S AT 62. SO THAT MEANS WE NEED TO TAKE A WHOLE FOOT OUT OF THIS TRUCK. DOWN HERE AT THE ROCKER IT'S SITTING AT 18 INCHES OFF THE GROUND. SO IF WE TAKE AWAY 12 THAT MEANS THE ROCKER'S GONNA BE SITTING SIX INCHES OFF THE FLOOR.

(JEREMY)>> BUT WE'RE NOT GONNA TAKE ALL 12 INCHES OUT IN ONE SPOT. WE'RE GONNA TAKE UP SOME ON THE FRAME AND SOME ON THE CAB. WE PLANNED TO CHANNEL THE CAB OF THE MODELA, WHICH WILL LOWER IT FOUR INCHES OVER THE FRAME. SO THIS MEANS WE NEED TO LOWER THE CENTER SECTION OF THE FRAME EIGHT INCHES, WHICH WILL GET US THE 12 INCHES WE'RE GOING FOR. THE CHANNEL, THAT'S PRETTY EASY. WE'RE GONNA RAISE THE FLOOR IN THE MODELA, WHICH IS GONNA DROP THE CAB DOWN FLUSH WITH THE FRAME RAILS. NOW THAT OTHER EIGHT INCHES WE NEED, THAT'S GONNA COME WITH DOING A LITTLE WORK TO OUR FRAME AND MAKING A FEW CUTS. NOW I'VE SEEN SOME GUYS THAT WILL CUT THE FRAME RIGHT AROUND IN THIS AREA JUST TO RELOCATE THE SPRING MOUNT HIGHER. THE PROBLEM WITH THAT IS IT PUTS THE STEERING BOX EIGHT INCHES LOWER THAN IT NEEDS TO BE, AND THAT'S GONNA JACK WITH OUR STEERING AND CAUSE SOME PRETTY BAD BUMP STEER. SO WE NEED A WAY TO PRESERVE THE STEERING AND SUSPENSION GEOMETRY THAT'S ENGINEERED INTO THIS FRAME. SO THAT STEERING BOX NEEDS TO STAY.

(LT)>> SO THAT MEANS WE NEED TO MAKE A CUT IN THE FRAME BEHIND THE STEERING BOX, AND AS ALWAYS THERE'S A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT WAYS WE COULD GET THE JOB DONE. THE EASIEST WOULD BE TO MAKE A SIMPLE STRAIGHT CUT, RUN A PIECE OF TUBING UP, AND CONNECT IT WITH THE REST OF THE FRAME RUNNING FORWARD. THAT WOULD GET THE JOB DONE AND LOWER THE CENTER SECTION OF THE FRAME, BUT HERE'S THE PROBLEM WITH THAT. THIS WHOLE FRONT FRAME RAIL IS GOING TO BE EXPOSED. SO WE WANT IT TO LOOK NICE, AND A STRAIGHT CUT JUST ISN'T GONNA DO THAT. SO INSTEAD WE'RE GONNA MAKE A CUT AS CLOSE TO THE STEERING BOX AS WE CAN WITHOUT DISTURBING IT. WE'LL MAKE A SECOND CUT AS CLOSE TO THE FIREWALL AS POSSIBLE, AND WE'LL BUILD A PIECE, SOMETHING LIKE THIS, TO FILL IN THE GAPS. SO IT'LL HAVE A NICE, PLEASING CURVE TO IT AND IT'LL LOOK A WHOLE LOT BETTER.

(JEREMY)>> NOW FOR THE BACK OF THE MODELA FRAME WE PLAN TO DO THE SAME THING. WE'RE GONNA MAKE A NICE TRANSITION TO MATCH THE FRONT SO EVERYTHING FLOWS TOGETHER NICELY. NOW ONE THING WE HAVE TO KEEP IN MIND IS THAT THERE'S GOING TO BE A BED ON HERE. SO THIS TRANSITION HAS TO HAPPEN WITHIN THE BED. THEN ONCE WE GET ALL OF OUR MODIFICATIONS DONE WE CAN RAISE THE BED FLOOR, ALLOWING IT TO SIT DOWN LOW ENOUGH THAT IT STILL MATCHES THE CAB. PRETTY EASY MODIFICATION. NOW ONE PROBLEM WITH THESE FRAMES, ESPECIALLY ON THE MODELA TRUCKS, IS THAT THEY STOP ABOUT HALF WAY DOWN THE LENGTH OF THE BED. SO AS YOU CAN IMAGINE, UNDER THE TRUCK THERE'S NOT MANY OPTIONS FOR LIKE TRYING TO MOUNT A FUEL CELL. SO WE PLAN TO STRETCH THIS SECTION AS WELL. THAT'S ALSO GONNA GIVE US MORE SUPPORT FOR THE BED AND GIVE US MORE MOUNTING OPTIONS. NOT ONLY THAT, WE PLAN TO STRETCH THE CAB, WHICH MEANS WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO LENGTHEN THE FRAME ANYWAY. THAT'S GONNA MOVE OUR BED A LITTLE FURTHER BACK BUT ALSO MOVE THE WHEEL BASE BACK SO EVERYTHING LOOKS PROPER.

(LT)>> DID YOU EAT YOUR CORN FLAKES THIS MORNING?

(JEREMY)>> YEAH!

(LT)>> IN ORDER TO CUT UP THE FRAME ON OUR MODELA WE'LL START BY PULLING OFF THE CAB AND SETTING IT ASIDE. THEN THE FRAME IS JACKED UP AND PLACED ON STANDS, AND THE WHOLE FRONT SUSPENSION ASSEMBLY IS REMOVED. THE REAR IS ALSO JACKED UP AND THE SAME PROCESS IS REPEATED. WE CAN THEN MOVE THE FRAME TO OUR NEW TABLE. MAKING ME WALK BACKWARDS AGAIN.

(JEREMY)>> NOW THIS IS WHERE OUR PLAN COMES TOGETHER, AND YOU SEE NOW WHY WE NEED A TABLE TO CUT UP OUR FRAME. NOW WE COULD DO THIS WORK IN THE FLOOR BUT WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO CONTINUE TO BEND OVER AND JUST MAKE IT HARDER ON US, BUT MOST IMPORTANTLY THERE'S NO REAL GOOD WAY TO ATTACH THE FRAME TO THE FLOOR. THIS IS WHERE THE TABLE COMES IN.

(LT)>> NOW OUR FIRST ORDER OF BUSINESS IS TO SECURELY ATTACH THE FRAME TO THE TABLE, AND AS YOU CAN SEE, THE FRAME IS ACTUALLY JUST A LITTLE BIT LONGER THAN THE SURFACE, BUT THAT'S REALLY NOT A BIG DEAL BECAUSE WE'RE JUST GONNA TACKLE THIS JOB IN SECTIONS. SCOOT THAT BACK JUST A LITTLE BIT. SO WE'RE GONNA START WITH THE FRONT OF THE FRAME FLUSH WITH THE EDGE OF THE TABLE. WE'LL BUILD SOME BLOCKS TO KIND OF HOLD IT UP, AND THEN WE'LL DO THE FRONT, AND LATER ON WE CAN TACKLE BACK. PROBABLY SOMEWHERE AROUND A SIX INCH BLOCK OUGHT TO DO IT. WE'LL CUT THE BLOCKS FROM THE SAME SQUARE TUBE THAT WAS USED FOR THE LEGS OF OUR TABLE USING OUR CARBIDE CHOP SAW, WHICH WILL MAKE PERFECTLY STRAIGHT AND SQUARE CUTS. NEXT WE'LL LIFT UP THE FRAME, SETTING ON THE BLOCKS, MAKING SURE TO KEEP IT BEHIND THE MARK FOR THE CUT. ALL RIGHT, NICE AND LEVEL, TACK IT IN.

(JEREMY)>> NOW YOU CAN SEE WHY HAVING A STEEL TABLE IS SO HANDY. WE CAN WELD THE SUPPORTS AND FRAME DIRECTLY TO THE TABLE. SO WHEN WE MAKE THE CUTS IT STAYS PERFECTLY IN PLACE. ALL RIGHT, WE'VE GOT OUR FRAME EXACTLY WHERE WE WANT IT AND IT'S SECURE. SO THE NEXT STEP FOR US WOULD BE TO GO AHEAD AND CUT THE FRONT SECTION OF THIS FRAME AND SEPARATE THE TWO PIECES. NOW WE'RE ALSO GONNA HAVE TO CUT LEGS FOR THIS FRONT SECTION. NOW YOU REMEMBER BACK HERE WE CUT THESE SIX INCHES ALL THE WAY AROUND BECAUSE THE BOTTOM OF THE FRAME IS PERFECTLY LEVEL, BUT UP HERE THE FRAME RUNS UP AT AN ANGLE AND IT GOES UP AROUND TWO INCHES. SO WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO CUT OUR LEGS A LITTLE BIT LONG TO GET THAT EIGHT INCHES WE'RE GOING FOR. WE'RE GONNA USE THE BOTTOM OF THE FRAME AS REFERENCE TO MAKE THE MARK ON THE TUBE SO WE CAN MAKE SURE WE CUT THEM AT THE PERFECT ANGLE.

(LT)>> WELL I'VE GOT A COUPLE OF LEGS CUT OUT TO SUPPORT THE FRONT HALF OF OUR MODELA FRAME, BUT UNFORTUNATELY WE'VE RUN LOW ON TIME AND WE'RE NOT GONNA BE ABLE TO MAKE THE CUT TODAY. SO NEXT TIME YOU GUYS SEE THIS CHASSIS SPARKS WILL BE FLYING. ALSO WE'LL SHOW YOU HOW TO BUILD THE PIECE THAT'S GONNA CONNECT THE TWO HALVES OF THE FRAME TOGETHER, LOWERING OUR MODELA EIGHT INCHES CLOSER TO THE GROUND. NOW I JUST WANT TO REITERATE TO YOU GUYS HOW IMPORTANT IT IS TO HAVE A NICE, FLAT SURFACE TO WORK FROM WHEN YOU'RE MODIFYING A CHASSIS LIKE THIS BECAUSE IT'S THE FOUNDATION OF YOUR PROJECT AND IT HAS TO BE AS LEVEL, AND AS FLAT, AND AS TRUE AS POSSIBLE. SO WHEN YOU'RE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD IT GOES STRAIGHT AS AN ARROW.

(JEREMY)>> NOW WE MADE GOOD HEADWAY TODAY ON OUR BLAZER, AND WE'VE STILL GOT A LITTLE MORE WORK LEFT TO DO TO GET IT READY FOR PAINT, BUT BEFORE WE GET TO THAT WE'RE GONNA ADD SOME GO FAST GOODIES AND THROW ON THAT NEW PRO CHARGER, BUT WHAT I'M EXCITED ABOUT IS OUR F-100 PROJECT. THAT'S UP NEXT FOR US AND WE'RE GONNA DO SOME MILE SUSPENSION UPGRADES AND START STAGE ONE.

(LT)>> JUST ABOUT EVERY VEHICLE ON THE ROAD TODAY HAS SOME SORT OF DIFFERENTIAL FITTED INSIDE ITS DRIVE AXLE. AS YOU GO AROUND CORNERS THE INSIDE WHEEL ALWAYS SPINS SLOWER THAN THE OUTSIDE. THAT'S BECAUSE IT HAS A SHORT PATH TO TAKE. NOW IF THE TWO WHEELS WERE SOLIDLY CONNECTED TOGETHER THE INSIDE WOULD SKID AROUND, WHICH LEADS TO ACCELERATED TIRE WEAR AND UNPREDICTABLE HANDLING, SOMETHING THAT YOU DEFINITELY DON'T WANT TO DEAL WITH EVERY SINGLE DAY. SO A DIFFERENTIAL IS INSTALLED TO ALLOW A SPLIT IN SPEED BETWEEN THE TWO WHEELS. NOW GEARHEADS, WE TYPICALLY LIKE MAXIMUM TRACTION AT ALL TIMES, AND THE PROBLEM IS A LOT OF VEHICLES COME FROM THE FACTORY WITH AN OPEN DIFFERENTIAL AS STANDARD EQUIPMENT. INSIDE THE CARRIER THERE ARE FOUR SPIDER GEARS THAT ACT TO SEND POWER BETWEEN THE TWO WHEELS, AND AS YOU GO AROUND CORNERS THE SPIDER GEARS WILL BE CONSTANTLY TURNING, ALLOWING FOR THAT DIFFERENCE OF SPEED BETWEEN THE TWO WHEELS. AN OPEN DIFFERENTIAL IS GREAT FOR A COMMUTER CAR IN GOOD WEATHER, BUT THEY ARE LESS THAN IDEAL IN LOW TRACTION SITUATIONS. YOU COULD HAVE ONE WHEEL ON GLARE ICE AND THE OTHER ON DRY PAVEMENT, AND GUESS WHAT, YOU'RE NOT GOING ANYWHERE BECAUSE THE WHEEL ON ICE WILL JUST BE SPINNING AND THE WHEEL ON PAVEMENT IS NOT GOING TO BE DOING A THING. SO THE SOLUTION IS TO INSTALL SOME SORT OF A LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL INSIDE YOUR AXLE. THIS WILL HELP BETTER DISTRIBUTE THE POWER BETWEEN THE TWO SIDES. NOW THERE ARE A WHOLE BUNCH OF DIFFERENT TYPES. I'M GONNA SHOW YOU SOME OF THE MOST POPULAR. THIS IS A CLUTCH TYPE LIMITED SLIP THAT YOU'D MOSTLY FIND IN AMERICAN MUSCLE CARS FROM THE '60'S AND '70'S AS WELL AS A LOT OF OTHER REAR WHEEL DRIVE CARS. NOW DEPENDING ON THE MANUFACTURER THAT IT CAME FROM, THEY HAVE A LOT OF DIFFERENT TRADE NAMES LIKE "POSITRACK", "SURE GRIP", OR "TRACTION LOCK", BUT THEY ALL WORK IN EXACTLY THE SAME WAY. BEHIND EACH SPIDER GEAR IS A SERIES OF CLUTCH PACKS, AND IN THE CENTER THERE ARE SOME SPRINGS THAT PUSH OUT AGAINST THE CLUTCHES. THE CLUTCHES WILL SLIP JUST ENOUGH TO ALLOW SOME DIFFERENCE IN SPEED WHILE YOU'RE CORNERING, BUT IF YOU EVER GET STUCK AND YOU HAVE A LIMITED SLIP THEN BOTH WHEELS WILL BE SPINNING. SO YOU CAN DEFINITELY TELL THE ADVANTAGE OF HAVING ONE OF THESE IN YOUR AXLE. NOW IF YOU HAVE A FULL SIZE GM TRUCK THAT'S LABELED AS HAVING A LOCKING DIFFERENTIAL, THEN THIS IS WHAT IT HAS, THE EATON G-80. NOW IT'S CALLED A LOCKER BUT IT'S REALLY NOT THE SAME AS A TRADITIONAL LOCKER. WHICH WE'LL TALK ABOUT LATER ON. THIS IS ACTUALLY MUCH MORE SIMILAR TO A CLUTCH STYLE LIMITED SLIP, AND HERE'S HOW IT WORKS. UNDER NORMAL DRIVING CONDITIONS IT ACTS JUST LIKE AN OPEN DIFFERENTIAL. AS POWER IS APPLIED AND WHEEL SLIP INCREASES, THESE LITTLE COUNTERWEIGHTS ACTUALLY FLIP OUT. THEY ENGINE A WAVE PLATE, WHICH COMPRESSES THE CLUTCH PACKS, VERY SIMILAR TO THE SPRINGS IN THE OTHER LIMITED SLIP. THERE ARE MANY TYPES OF LIMITED SLIPS OUT THERE, WE HAVEN'T EVEN BEGUN TO TALK ABOUT LOCKERS OR SPOOLS, BUT NO MATTER HOW YOU USE YOUR VEHICLE THERE'S A DIFFERENTIAL OUT THERE THAT'LL MEET YOUR NEEDS.

(LT)>> IF YOU HAVE A NISSAN TITAN OR ARMADA AND YOU'VE DONE ANY TOWING, THEN YOU'VE PROBABLY HAD SOME ISSUES WITH THE STOCK AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. NOW YOU CAN GO TO THE DEALERSHIP FOR A REPLACEMENT, BUT IT'LL STILL HAVE THE SAME INHERENT PROBLEMS. LEVEL 10 OFFERS A TRUE SOLUTION WITH THEIR BULLETPROOF AUTOMATIC. IT INSTALLS WITHOUT ANY TUNING CHANGES BEING REQUIRED, AND IT COSTS LESS THAN THAT DEALERSHIP REPLACEMENT. THEY START DOWN IN THE VALVE BODY BY DOING SOME RECALIBRATIONS THAT IMPROVE SHIFTING AND INCREASE LINE PRESSURE. UP FRONT A BILLET TORQUE CONVERTER IS ADDED FOR STRENGTH, AND IF YOUR RUNNING A SUPERCHARGER OR OTHER POWER ADDER, BILLET SHAFTS CAN BE ADDED TO CREATE THE ULTIMATE REFIVE AUTOMATIC. SO CHECK OUT LEVEL 10 DOT COM FOR MORE. THANKS FOR WATCHING TRUCK TECH, WE'LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME.
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