More '93 Chevy Silverado "Senior Silverado" Episodes

Truck Tech Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

Accel
Spark Plug Wires, Extreme 9000 Ceramic, Spiral Core, 8mm, Black, 90 Degree Boots, Universal, V8, Set
Falken Tires
P295/40R20, Falken Azenis FK453CC
Kimberly-Clark Professional
Scott Pro Shop Towels - Blue, Solvent Resistant, 200 Count, Pegboard Dispenser Feature
KMC Wheels
Wheel, XD 798 Addict, Aluminum, Black, 20 in. x 9 in., 5 x 5.00 in. Bolt Circle, 5.710 in. Backspace, Each
McGaughy's Suspension Parts
Suspension Lowering Kit, Spindles, Flip Kit, 4 in. Front, 6 in. Rear, Chevy, GMC, Kit, HD Brakes, 1 1/4" Thick Rotors
Summit Racing
Paramount Restyling , Bumper, Xtreme Stinger, Rock, Front, Steel, Black Powdercoated, Front, Jeep, Each
Summit Racing
WESTERN CHASSIS, Shock, DS2, TwinTube, Front, Chevy, Dodge, GMC, Each
Summit Racing
WESTERN CHASSIS, Shock, DS2, TwinTube, Rear, Chevy, GMC, Each
The Industrial Depot
The Industrial Depot - Fasteners, Hardware, and Shop Supplies
WD-40
Aerosol, 12 oz., lubricant, water dispersant, penetrant, protectant

Episode Transcript

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY WE'RE LOWERING OUR 1993 SILVERADO TO GET THE RIGHT STANCE. THEN WE'RE SHOEING IT WITH SOME LARGER AND MORE

MODERN WHEELS AND TIRES.

(KEVIN)>> THIS IS THEIR AZENAS FK LINE.

(ANNOUNCER)>> IT'S ALL TODAY HERE ON TRUCK TECH.

(KEVIN)>> HEY THANKS FOR WATCHING TRUCK TECH. WELL THIS IS OUR 1993 FULL SIZE 1,500 SERIES TWO WHEEL DRIVE SHORT BED CHEVY PICK UP WITH 260,000 MILES ON THE CLOCK. AND ALTHOUGH IT MAY LOOK EXACTLY THE SAME AS THE LAST TIME YOU SAW IT, WE'VE ACTUALLY BEEN WORKING HARD ON IT MAKING SURE THAT THE BRAKES WORK WHEN WE HIT THE PEDAL, MAKING SURE THAT IT DOESN'T PEE OUT FLUIDS EVERY TIME IT'S PARKED, AND MAKING SURE THAT IT RUNS GOOD ENOUGH SO THAT WHERE WE CAN GET SOME MORE MILES OUT OF IT. NOW THIS BODY STYLE STAYED VIRTUALLY THE SAME FROM 1988 RIGHT UP UNTIL ABOUT 1999, MAKING IT ARGUABLY THE NEXT CURRENT CLASSIC. AND ALTHOUGH WE THING IT'S A GOOD LOOKING BODY STYLE, THERE'S ALWAYS ROOM FOR IMPROVEMENT.

(RYAN)>> NOW AESTHETICALLY SPEAKING, THERE'S A COUPLE OF THINGS THIS TRUCK IS SCREAMING FOR, A PAINT JOB AND AN IMPROVED STANCE. NOW WE'VE DONE SOME LOWERING KITS BEFORE, BUT THEY'VE ALWAYS BEEN IN THE MODERATE RANGE.

SO THIS TIME WE'RE GONNA GET A LITTLE BIT MORE AGGRESSIVE CAUSE WHY WOULD WE LIFT UP A TWO WHEEL DRIVE TRUCK AND THROW SOME BIG OLE MUD TIRES ON IT.

WE WANT TO MAKE IT A NICE, CLEAN STREET TRUCK.

NOW TO GET OUR TRUCK SITTING CLOSER TO THE PAVEMENT WE JUST WENT TO THE SUMMIT RACING WEBSITE, ENTERED IN OUR MAKE AND MODEL, AND TOOK A LOOK AT SOME OF THE OPTIONS THEY HAD AVAILABLE. WE SETTLED ON A FIVESIX LOWERING KIT, WHICH IS GONNA GIVE US FIVE INCHES OF DROP UP FRONT AND SIX INCHES AT THE BACK OF THE TRUCK. NOW TO GET THAT DONE UP FRONT IT USES A COMBINATION OF LOWERING SPRINGS AND DROPPED SPINDLES. OUT BACK, SINCE WE WANT SIX INCHES OF DROP, WE HAVE TO DO SOMETHING AGGRESSIVE. SO WE WENT WITH A FLIP KIT, WHICH IS GONNA MOVE THE LEAF SPRINGS FROM THE TOP OF THE AXLE WHERE THEY ARE NOW TO

THE BOTTOM OF THE AXLE. AND THAT NECESSITATES A CNOTCH OF THE FRAME JUST SO YOU CAN MAINTAIN A LITTLE BIT OF SUSPENSION TRAVEL, AND THESE SUCKERS WILL BOLT IN. WE ALSO WENT TO SUMMIT AND PICKED UP FOUR NEW SHOCKS THAT'LL MATCH OUR SOON TO BE LOWERED RIDE HEIGHT.

(KEVIN)>> NOW EVEN BEING ABLE TO THROW A SOCKET ONTO THE BALL JOINT CASTLE NUT, WELL IT WAS LIKE AN ARCHAEOLOGICAL DIG. WE HAD TO HUNT AND PECK TO EVEN FIND THE COTTER PINS. MY GUESS IS THIS TRUCK SPENT SOME TIME ON A CATTLE RANCH. DESPITE THE MILES ON THIS TRUCK, THE BALL JOINTS ARE STILL IN PRETTY GOOD SHAPE. SO WE DIDN'T WANT TO USE THE PICKLE FORK AND

THE IMPACT GUN ON THEM. WE WANTED TO KEEP THE BOOTS INTACT. SO WE USED THE TRIED OLD TRUED METHOD OF WHOMPING IT WITH A BFH.

(RYAN)>> ONE!

(KEVIN)>> NOW IF YOU'RE JUST DOING A MILD DROP WITH JUST SPRINGS YOU STILL HAVE TO TAKE THE SPINDLES OFF.

OURS IS PRETTY AGGRESSIVE, SO THE SPINDLES GET REPLACED AS WELL AS THE SPRING.

(RYAN)>> NOW TO ALLOW THE CONTROL ARM TO SWING DOWN FAR ENOUGH TO HAVE ACCESS TO THE COIL SPRINGS WE'RE REMOVING THE SWAY BAR END LINKS. ALSO DISCONNECTING THE BOTTOM HALF OF THE SHOCK SO I CAN CLIMB UP IN THE ENGINE BAY AND REMOVE THE STUD NUT AND REMOVE THE SHOCK ALL TOGETHER. GO UP TOP, LOOSEN UP THAT SHOCK.

BUT SOMETIMES THESE PART STORE SHOCKS DON'T COME OFF LIKE YOU EXPECT THEM TOO. THAT SHOCK JUST CAME APART DIDN'T IT. ( )>> YEP!

(RYAN)>> THAT'S HILARIOUS. SO YOU WANTED A $19 DOLLAR SHOCK. SOMETHING MISSING HERE.

(KEVIN)>> SOMETHING'S MISSING ALRIGHT.

(RYAN)>> WELL I GUESS THERE'S MORE THAN ONE WAY TO REMOVE A SHOCK. ALRIGHT, NOW THE ONLY THING WE'VE GOT LEFT TO DO IS TO REMOVE THE COIL SPRING. AND WE CAN DO THAT BY LOWERING THIS JACK. NOW I'VE DONE THIS ENOUGH ON THIS PARTICULAR MODEL OF TRUCK TO KNOW THAT THIS SPRING ISN'T UNDER THAT MUCH OF A COMPRESSION LOAD AND I'D PROBABLY BE OKAY JUST KEEPING A FIRM HAND ON IT AND USING A PRY BAR TO PRY THE BOTTOM OF THE SPRING OUT. BUT JUST TO BE SAFE YOU'VE GOT A LENGTH OF CHAIN RUN DOWN THROUGH THE SPRING AND THE LOWER CONTROL ARM.

SO IT CAN'T GO VERY FAR AND WON'T BECOME A TEMPORARY PART OF MY FACE OR RIB CAGE.

AND WITH THE JACK OUT OF THE WAY, WE CAN USE A PRY BAR TO GENTLY PRY THE SPRING OUT OF THE SEAT. CHAIN WORKED!

NOW TO MAKE SURE OUR LITTLE RUBBER COIL SPRING ISOLATOR DOESN'T GO ANYWHERE DURING INSTALLATION, A COUPLE OF PIECES OF MASKING TAPE OUGHT TO KEEP IT PINNED DOWN. ONCE YOU HAVE THE SPRING IN PLACE, MAKE SURE YOU INDEX IT CORRECTLY SO THAT THE END OF THE SPRING SITS IN THE LITTLE RECESS ON THE BOTTOM OF THE CONTROL ARM POCKET. THEN YOU CAN USE THE JACK, PUT A LITTLE BIT OF PRESSURE ON THE SPRING, AND COMPRESS IT ENOUGH SO YOU CAN INSTALL THE SPINDLE AND SHOCK. SHOCK IN THERE, WE'RE GOOD. NOW OUR REPLACEMENT SHOCK IS ONE OF THESE FANCY NEW FANGLED ONE PIECE SHOCKS.

NOW WE DID HAVE A CAPTURED NUT BREAK FREE ON THE INSIDE OF THE CONTROL ARM. SO WE JUST USED A NUT AND BOLT TO REPLACE IT. GOOD THING THIS ISN'T A SHOW TRUCK. WE CAN FOLLOW THAT WITH THE INSTALLATION OF THE NEW DROP SPINDLE FROM MCGAUGHYS. TIGHTEN DOWN THE CASTELLATED NUTS AND SECURE THEM WITH COTTER PINS. NOW THE DROP SPINDLE PROVIDES ABOUT TWO INCHES OF DROP. AND IF YOU TAKE A LOOK AND COMPARE THEM TO THE ORIGINAL, THE SPINDLE PIN HEIGHT IS ABOUT TWO INCHES HIGHER, LETTING THE TRUCK SIT LOWER TO THE GROUND. AFTER A QUICK CLEAN UP AND A LITTLE BIT OF PAINT, WE REINSTALL THE BREAK DUST SHIELD AND OUR NEW ROTORS. THEN INSTALL THE OUTER WHEEL BEARING, SET THE PRELOAD ON THE ROTORS, SECURED IT WITH A COTTER PIN, AND COVERED EVERYTHING UP WITH A DUST CAP. [ hammer tapping ] THEN WE REINSTALLED OUR HIGH MILEAGE BUT STILL FUNCTIONING BRAKE CALIPERS, SECURED THE BOLTS, AND FINALLY ADDED THE TIE ROD END AND LOCKED IT DOWN IN PLACE. BUT WE STOPPED SHORT OF ADDING THE SWAY BAR END LINKS BECAUSE WE'VE GOT ANOTHER UPGRADE IN MIND. WE'LL GET TO THAT LATER.

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP, HOW TO LOWER THE REAR END BY CNOTCHING THE FRAME, AND LATER, UJOINT REBUILDING TIPS.

(KEVIN)>> HEY, WELCOME BACK. WE ARE IN THE MIDDLE OF DROPPING THE SUSPENSION ON OUR FULL SIZE CHEVY PICK UP. DOING A PRETTY AGGRESSIVE FIVESIX DROP.

NOW OUT FRONT YOU'D THINK WITH ALL THE STEERING AND GEOMETRY BUSINESS GOING ON THAT IT WOULD BE A LOT MORE

WORK TO DROP IT IN THE FRONT. WELL NOT SO MUCH. IT MAY BE MORE COMPLICATED BUT CERTAINLY NOT MORE WORK. IN THE BACK WE'RE DOING ESSENTIALLY WHAT IS KNOWN AS A FLIP KIT, WHICH IS PUTTING THE AXLE OVER TOP OF THE LEAF SPRING PACK. QUITE SIMPLE OPERATION, HOWEVER IT CREATES ANOTHER PROBLEM, WHICH IS SUSPENSION TRAVEL HERE.

SO WE HAVE TO DO SOME SORT OF A RELIEF ON THE FRAME RAIL.

IT'S A DUAL PARALLEL SECTION OF FRAME RAIL, NOT TOO BAD, BUT WE HAVE TO HAVE ACCESS TO IT. SO WE'RE GONNA ESSENTIALLY BLOW EVERYTHING APART, GET ACCESS TO EVERYTHING ALL AT ONCE, AND DO THE KIT THE SMART WAY. NOW THINKING AHEAD, WE WANT TO FIX THE RUSTY CAB CORNERS AND THE BED HAS TO BE OFF FOR THAT. SO LOOSENING ALL THE HARDWARE, WELL IT JUST MAKES SENSE AND IT SAVES US TIME DOWN THE ROAD. REST OF THE TEAR DOWN IS FAIRLY SIMPLE.

AND EVEN THOUGH THERE'S 260,000 MILES ON THIS TRUCK, IT HAS BEEN WORKED ON IN THE PAST. SO THESE FASTENERS AREN'T RUSTED OR FROZEN IN. NOW THOSE OF YOU CHEVY TRUCK EAGLE EYES OUT THERE, YOU'VE PROBABLY NOTICED THAT WE'VE GOT MISMATCHED UBOLTS AND NONSTOCK REAR SHACKLES. SO THIS TRUCK'S BEEN INTO BEFORE AND IT MAY GIVE US TOO MUCH DROP IN THE BACK. WE'LL JUST HAVE TO FIGURE IT OUT LATER. HERE YOU CAN CLEARLY SEE THE NONSTOCK SHACKLES THAT ARE OBVIOUSLY A COUPLE OF INCHES LONGER THAN THEY SHOULD BE. BUT THE MULTIPLE BOLT LOCATIONS MAY SOLVE THE PROBLEM BEFORE IT'S EVEN A PROBLEM, SWEET.

(RYAN)>> ALRIGHT, WITH THE AXLE OUT OF THE WAY AND THE FRAME RAIL CLEANED UP A LITTLE BIT, I WENT AHEAD AND MARKED THE HOLES FOR THE CNOTCH. NOW TO DO THAT I JUST USED THE CNOTCH PLATES AS A TEMPLATE. MARK THE HOLES THAT NEED TO BE DRILLED, EIGHT OF THEM, PLUS MARK THE CNOTCH WHERE IT'S GONNA GO.

BEFORE WE START CUTTING THE CNOTCH I'M GONNA DRILL A COUPLE OF HOLES ON THESE INSIDE CORNERS JUST FOR A LITTLE EXTRA STRENGTH. NOW JUST LIKE ANY TIME YOU DRILL INTO A FRAME RAIL, YOU NEED TO CHECK THE BACK SIDE OF IT TO MAKE SURE YOU'RE NOT GONNA RUN INTO ANY WIRING HARNESSES, FUEL LINES, OR BRAKE LINES. NOW THE PURPOSE OF THE HOLES ON THE INSIDE OF THESE CORNERS IS TO PREVENT A STRESS LOCATION, WHERE TWO STRAIGHT EDGES MEET AND COULD POTENTIALLY LEAD TO A STRESS CRACK OR A FATIGUE CRACK. THE DRILLED HOLES PROVIDE A NICE, SMOOTH RADIUS AND WILL HOPEFULLY PREVENT THAT. NOW WE'RE USING A 40 THOUSANDTHS THICK CUTOFF WHEEL THAT WE PICKED UP FROM INDUSTRIAL DEPOT ON OUR FOUR AND A HALF INCH ANGLE GRINDER.

BUT YOU CAN USE A RECIPROCATING SAW AND ACHIEVE THE SAME RESULTS. OUR CUTOFF WHEEL GOT US THROUGH BOTH FRAME RAILS. NOW IF YOU'RE DOING THIS AT HOME, MAKE SURE YOU SUPPORT THE BACK END OF THE FRAME RAILS BEFORE YOU MAKE YOUR

CUT TO MAKE SURE THAT THE FRAME RAIL DOESN'T MOVE AROUND ON YOU ONCE YOU REMOVE HALF THE METAL. THAT WAY YOU CAN BOLT THE CNOTCH BACK IN PLACE AND

LOCK IT INTO POSITION NICE AND STRAIGHT. WITH THE FRAME RAIL CARVED UP, GO AHEAD AND THROW THE CNOTCH PLATE BACK IN POSITION AND VERIFY THAT THE HOLES YOU MARKED ARE IN THE RIGHT SPOT. WE'RE GOOD, READY TO DRILL, YEE HAW! I STARTED OUT WITH EIGHTH INCH PILOT HOLES JUST TO MAKE SURE THE HOLE IS CENTERED AND MAKES THINGS EASIER FOR US TO DRILL. THEN WE JUMPED UP TO ABOUT A FIVESIXTEENTHS BIT, FOLLOWED BY A HALF INCH BIT. NOW YOU CAN GO STRAIGHT TO THAT HALF INCH BIT IF YOU WANT TO. FOR ME IT'S A LITTLE BIT EASIER AND A LITTLE BIT QUICKER TO STEP IT UP. THEN I JUST KNOCK THE BURRS DOWN ON THE END OF THE HOLES SO THE CNOTCH PLATE CAN FIT NICE AND FLUSH. AND SINCE WE DON'T WANT THIS RAW STEEL RUSTING ANY MORE THAN THE STEEL THAT'S AROUND IT, I WIPED IT DOWN WITH A LITTLE ACETONE AND GOT RID OF ANY LAST REMAINING METAL SPLINTERS. THEN HIT IT WITH A COAT OF PAINT JUST MAKE SURE CORROSION STAYED AT BAY.

NOW THE PLATE GETS BOLTED IN PLACE WITH EIGHT GRADE EIGHT FASTENERS ON THE FACE OF IT ALONG WITH TWO OF THEM ON

THE BOTTOM SIDE OF THE FRAME RAIL, ONE ON EITHER SIDE OF THE NOTCH. I'VE GOT A LITTLE BIT OF WORK TO DO ON THAT ONE.

AND FOR YOU GUYS THAT ARE CONCERNED WITH CUTTING INTO THE FRAME RAIL THIS MUCH, WELL DON'T WORRY ABOUT IT

TOO MUCH CAUSE THIS PLATE BUILDS A LOT OF THAT STRENGTH BACK INTO IT. OKAY, COOL, CNOTCH COMPLETE!

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. WELL WE'RE JUST ABOUT DONE INSTALLING THE LOWERING KIT ON OUR '93 CHEVY. AND SINCE WE HAVE THE DRIVESHAFT OUT TO INSTALL THE REAR AXLE FLIP KIT, WE FIGURED NOW WOULD BE A GOOD TIME TO REPLACE SOME OF THESE HIGH MILEAGE AND WORN OUT UJOINTS.

NOW WE'VE SHOWN YOU UJOINT REPLACEMENT IN THE PAST, BUT I DON'T THINK WE'VE SHOWN YOU THIS GM STYLE THAT

ISN'T HELD IN PLACE BY SIR CLIPS, BUT HELD IN PLACE BY NYLON. THAT TAKES A LITTLE BIT OF HEAT TO REMOVE. NOW YOU CAN USE AN OXY ACETYLENE TORCH IF YOU WANT THE JOB TO GO A LITTLE BIT QUICKER, BUT THESE PROPANE TORCHES ARE ABOUT $15 BUCKS.

WHAT THE FLAME DOES IS HEAT UP THE YOKE, WHICH IN TURN HEATS UP THE NYLON OR PLASTIC THAT LOCKS THE UJOINT CAPS IN PLACE, FORCING IT TO EXPAND AND FORCING IT OUT OF THE HOLE OR CHAMBER THAT IT'S LOCKED INTO.

(RYAN)>> NOW A LITTLE WD 40 WILL HELP LUBRICATE THE CAPS SO THEY SLIDE OUT OF POSITION A LITTLE EASIER. [ air wrench spinning ]

THERE WE GO! MY GUESS IS IT'S A LITTLE WARM. NOW YOU MIGHT HAVE NOTICED I'M USING A NUT FROM ONE OF

THE OLD REAR AXLE UBOLTS TO DRIVE ON THE BOTTOM OF THE UJOINT AND HELP PUSH THE TOP CAP OUT. IT'S JUST BETTER THAN USING A CHROME SOCKET. THAT'S KIND OF RIDICULOUS. JUST LIKE A NEW ONE. YEP, COOL! OUT WITH THE OLD, IN WITH THE NEW.

NOW YOU CAN SEE THE LOCATION OF THE GROOVE IN THE STOCK CAP VERSUS THE REPLACEMENT. IT'S IN A DIFFERENT SPOT AND IT'S MADE TO FIT THIS REPLACEMENT CCLIP. NOW TO INSTALL THE JOINT, FIRST CAREFULLY REMOVE UJOINT CAPS ON EITHER SIDE AND SLIDE ONE HALF AT A TIME OF THE UJOINT INTO THE YOKE. THEN WITH THE UJOINT CROSS PROTRUDING FROM THE YOKE, INSTALL ONE OF THE CAPS MAKING SURE THE NEEDLE BEARINGS ARE ALL STILL IN THE CORRECT POSITION. THEN FLIP THE JOINT OVER AND SLIGHTLY TAP ON THE YOKE TO MAKE SURE THAT THE CAP STARTS SEATING IN THE YOKE. AND ONCE IT'S TAPPED IN A LITTLE BIT, THEN YOU CAN FLIP IT OVER AND REPEAT THE PROCESS. AGAIN MAKING SURE THAT THE NEEDLE BEARINGS ALL STAY IN POSITION. IF ONE FALLS OUT OF THE POSITION AND ENDS UP IN THE BOTTOM OF THE CAP, WELL YOU'RE NEVER GONNA GET THE CLIPS TO SEAT AND THE UJOINT'S GONNA FAIL PREMATURELY IF YOU DO SOMEHOW MANAGE TO. NOW THERE'S GREASE PREINSTALLED FROM THE FACTORY THAT HELPS THE NEEDLE BEARINGS IN PLACE.

IT'S JUST ALWAYS GOOD TO KEEP AN EYE ON IT. NOW I'M JUST USING ONE OF THE OLD CAPS TO HELP DRIVE THE NEW CAP INTO POSITION. ONCE I'VE GOT IT SEATED, I CAN BREAK OUT THE NOISE MAKER AND SLOWLY VIBRATE IT INTO PLACE.

IT MIGHT TAKE A FEW SECONDS BUT IT'S BETTER THAN WHOOPING ON IT WITH A BIG HAMMER. [air wrench spinning] NOW ONCE YOU GET ONE UJOINT CAP FULLY INTO POSITION, GO AHEAD AND INSTALL ONE OF THE CCLIPS. THAT WAY YOU CAN DRIVE AGAINST THAT CAP AND THE CLIP TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING'S INSTALLED CORRECTLY AND ALL THE WAY. THEN FLIP IT OVER, PRESS THE OTHER SIDE CAP ALL THE WAY INTO POSITION MAKING SURE THAT THE GROOVE FOR THE

CCLIP IS FULLY EXPOSED. INSTALL THE CCLIP AND YOU'RE DONE.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. NOW OUR RECENTLY LOWERED CHEVY IS BACK ON ALL FOURS

AND LOOKING PRETTY GOOD. NOW WE CAN'T DO ANYTHING IMMEDIATELY ABOUT THIS OLD TWO TONE PAINT JOB, BUT ONE THING WE CAN DO RIGHT NOW TO IMPROVE THE LOOKS OF THIS TRUCK IS SWAP OUT THE ROLLING STOCK.

(KEVIN)>> NOW TAKE A LOOK AT WHAT WE'RE GONNA REPLACE THOSE TIRED OLD WHEELS WITH.

THESE ARE FROM KMC. WE PICKED THEM UP AT SUMMIT RACING. IT'S A MATTE BLACK FINISH. THEY CALL IT THEIR ADDICT WHEEL, AND IT'S A 20 INCH DIAMETER, NINE INCHES WIDE, WITH A FIVE AND THREE QUARTER INCH BACK SPACE. THIS IS A CAST ALUMINUM WHEEL THAT'S GONNA REALLY BRING THE LOOK OF THIS TRUCK INTO THE 21 CENTURY AND LOOK A WHOLE LOT BETTER. WE'VE GOT THEM WRAPPED IN FALKEN TIRES THAT ARE EQUALLY AS COOL, CHECK IT OUT. THAT ONE SEEMS TO HAVE A MIND OF ITS OWN, SO WE'LL SHOW YOU THIS GUY INSTEAD. THIS IS THEIR AZENAS FK LINE IN A 295 40 SERIES 20

INCH DIAMETER WHEEL. THIS IS FALKEN'S ANSWER TO TODAY'S GROWING MARKET OF PERFORMANCE LUXURY CROSSOVERS AND SUV'S FULL SIZE TRUCK TIRES. AVAILABLE IN A WIDE VARIETY OF DIAMETERS FROM 17 TO 20 INCHES, INCLUDING STAGGERED. NOW THIS TIRE FEATURES A PERFORMANCE ORIENTED ASYMMETRIC TREAD DESIGN FOR GREAT TRACTION AND HANDLING. NOW FALKEN CLAIMS TO HAVE A SILICA ENHANCED FORMULA IN THE RUBBER THAT IMPROVES PERFORMANCE AND ELIMINATES SOME OF THE ROAD NOISE. WE'RE GONNA TEST THEM OUT ON OUR TRUCK, SEE HOW THEY PERFORM.

(RYAN)>> ALRIGHT, WITH OUR WHEELS INSTALLED, WELL THIS TRUCK IS JUST A PAINT JOB AWAY FROM LOOKING LIKE SOMETHING WE WOULD ACTUALLY WANT TO DRIVE. BUT BEFORE WE PAINT IT, WE'VE GOT TO GET RID OF SOME MORE OF THIS TRIM AND DO A LITTLE RUST REPAIR.

(KEVIN)>> THAT'S RIGHT, SO THE NEXT TIME YOU SEE THIS TRUCK WE'LL TAKE CARE OF SOME OF THE TIN WORM ISSUES THAT PLAGUED THIS BODY STYLE.

(RYAN)>> NOW JUST ABOUT EVERY SHOP OUT THERE HAS ONE THING IN COMMON, THE NEED FOR SOME SORT OF SHOP TOWEL OR RAG TO CLEAN UP WITH. AND IN MOST SHOPS REAL ESTATE IS A PREMIUM. SO BEING ABLE TO HANG YOUR SCOTT PRO SHOP TOWELS UP ON

A PEG BOARD NOT ONLY GETS THEM OFF THE FLOOR OR OFF A TABLE TOP, IT MAKES GRABBING A SHOP TOWEL A ONE HANDED DEAL. AND WE'VE SHOWN YOU AND TOLD YOU HOW TOUGH THESE PRO SHOP TOWELS ARE. AND THE NEW BOX IS JUST A SIMPLE DESIGN THAT ALLOWS IT TO BE INSTALLED ON A PEG BOARD FOR CONVENIENCE. SO IF YOU'VE GOT A PEG BOARD, WELL CHECK OUT PRO SHOP TOWELS AND THEIR BOX IS MADE JUST FOR IT.

(KEVIN)>> IF YOU GUYS ARE FINALLY DONE WITH BURNING SPARK PLUG BOOTS ON YOUR ENGINE, YOU MIGHT WANT TO CHECK A SET OF THESE ACCEL EXTREME 9,000 CERAMIC BOOTED UNIVERSAL FIT SPARK PLUG WIRES.

THE WIRES THEMSELVES ARE A SILICONE SPIRAL WOUND ULTRA HIGH TEMPERATURE EIGHT MILLIMETER WIRE. AND THE KIT COMES WITH BOTH TRADITIONAL AND HEI DISTRIBUTOR BOOTS. BUT THE REAL MAGIC IS IN THE CERAMIC BOOTS, WHICH OFFER UP TO 600 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT OF HEAT RESISTANCE. THESE ACCEL CERAMIC BOOTED PLUGS ARE PERFECT FOR A CLOSE PROXIMITY HIGH HEAT APPLICATION, SUCH AS A TURBO, SUPERCHARGER, OR EVEN A HEAVY DUTY TRUCK. AND RE AVAILABLE WHEREVER ACCEL PRODUCTS ARE SOLD.

(RYAN)>> NOW IF YOU'VE GOT AN '07 OR NEWER JEEP JK WRANGLER AND YOU WANT TO REPLACE THE KIND OF WEAK STOCK BUMPER WITH SOMETHING A LITTLE BIT MORE SUBSTANTIAL OR SOMETHING STYLED MORE AGGRESSIVELY, THEN CHECK OUT THE EXTREME STINGER BUMPER FROM PARAMOUNT RESTYLING. THIS HEAVY DUTY STEEL BUMPER IS PRECISION CUT AND POWDER COATED BLACK. IT'S GOT AN INTEGRATED WINCH MOUNT, HEAVY DUTY TABS, AND DRINGS THAT ARE INCLUDED. AND IT'S DESIGNED TO MAXIMIZE CLEARANCE WHILE OFF ROAD. SO IF YOU WANT TO TOUGHEN UP THE FRONT END OF YOUR JK WRANGLER WITH SOMETHING THAT'S FUNCTIONAL AND AGGRESSIVE LOOKING, WELL CHECK OUT THE EXTREME STINGER FROM PARAMOUNT RESTYLING. GUYS, THANKS FOR WATCHING TRUCK TECH, SEE YOU IN A LITTLE BIT.
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