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Episode Transcript

(NARRATOR)>> TODAY ON TRUCK TECH JEREMY AND LT JUMP BACK ON TRANSFORMING THIS 86 YEAR OLD MODELA INTO THEIR VERSION OF A MODERN DAY STREET ROD.

(JEREMY)>> IT'S A BRAND NEW SEASON OF TRUCK TECH AND WE'VE GOT SOME COOL NEW PROJECTS LINED UP FOR YOU, AS WELL AS SOME TRUCKS WE STILL NEED TO FINISH UP FROM LAST YEAR, AND TODAY WE'RE GONNA KICK THINGS OFF WITH ONE OF THE OLDEST PICKUPS TO EVER ROLL THROUGH THE DOORS OF OUR SHOP. WE PICKED UP THIS 1931 FORD MODELA AT THE BEGINNING OF LAST YEAR, AND IT WAS A VERY COMPLETE DECENT CONDITION TRUCK, AND THE ORIGINAL FLATHEAD FOUR WAS STILL INTACT, AND IT ACTUALLY RAN PRETTY WELL. [ engine idling ]

(LT)>> YEAH, LOOK HOW SMOOTH IT IS.

(JEREMY)>> THAT'S AWESOME! RATHER THAN WASTE ANY TIME TRYING TO REINFORCE THE OLD FRAME WE STARTED FROM SCRATCH AND ASSEMBLED A PETE AND JAKES TRADITIONAL STYLE HOT ROD FRAME, COMPLETE WITH A LADDER BAR REAR, DROP IBEAM FRONT END, AND VEGA STEERING. AFTER TEARING THE OLD TRUCK APART, WE SET THE BODY ONTO THE NEW FRAME AND MADE A LITTLE MORE ROOM FOR AN ENGINE BY CUTTING OUT THE FIREWALL AND FLIPPING IT AROUND. WE WENT THE CAB TO BLAST FROM THE PAST IN LEBANON, TENNESSEE, WHERE WE HAD THE BODY BLASTED WITH A CRUSHED GLASS MEDIA. WE KNEW IT WAS BAD UNDERNEATH BUT THERE WERE LITERALLY GALLONS OF FILLER ON THIS BODY COVERING UP SOME QUESTIONABLE REPAIRS. SO WE LOADED HER UP, BROUGHT HER HOME, AND HERE'S WHAT WE HAVE TO WORK WITH.

(LT)>> IN ALL OF HER BARE METAL GLORY. NOW THAT'S BECAUSE EVERY TIME WE START A PROJECT OF THIS SCOPE WE ALWAYS STRIP OFF ALL THE OLD LAYERS OF PAINT AND GET IT DOWN TO BARE METAL. THAT WAY WE CAN BEGIN THE BODY WORK PHASE ON A PROPERLY PREPARED FOUNDATION.

(JEREMY)>> WELL WE KNEW IT WAS GONNA BE BAD, BUT WE DIDN'T EXPECT IT WAS GONNA BE THIS BAD. THE FIRST THING YOU'LL NOTICE IS WHERE THEY'VE SECTIONED IN THE LOWER PART OF THE COWL, WHERE THEY'VE JUST BRAISED IT IN, AND WE'LL HAVE TO GO IN AND TAKE CARE OF THAT. NOW ONE THING I EXPECTED TO SEE WERE THESE HOLES. THAT'S JUST AN OLD SCHOOL DENT REPAIR WHERE THEY RAN SCREWS IN IT AND JUST YANKED IT OUT WITH A DENT PULLER. NOW IT SEEMS LIKE EVERY TIME WE BLAST ONE OF THESE OLD THINGS WE ALWAYS RUN INTO SOMETHING WHERE WE WONDER WHAT IN THE WORLD THEY WERE DOING. JUST LIKE THE LOWER PORTIONS OF THESE DOORS. THEY ACTUALLY DRILLED HOLES IN THE BOTTOM OF THE DOOR AND BOLTED GALVANIZED METAL TO IT. THEN THEY FILLER WORKED OVER THE BOLTS AND THE RUST, UNREAL! AS YOU CAN SEE, THE BACK OF THE CAB, WELL IT'S PRETTY ROUGH. IT'S GOT A LOT OF HAMMER MARKS WHERE THEY WERE TRYING TO WORK OUT SOME OF THESE LOW SPOTS, BUT I'M NOT TOO WORRIED ABOUT THAT. I THINK WE CAN MASSAGE IT OUT AND MAKE IT PRETTY NICE, BUT FROM THE BODY LINE DOWN WE'RE GONNA RESKIN EVERYTHING AND GIVE THIS MODELA SOME NEW SHEET METAL.

(LT)>> THE NEXT PHASE OF THIS PROJECT IS GONNA GET JUST A LITTLE DIRTY. SO WE'RE GONNA MOVE IT NEXT DOOR TO THE PREP BOOTH. THIS CAB HAS ONLY BEEN IN BARE METAL FOR A FEW SHORT DAYS AND IT'S ALREADY STARTING TO RUST IN A FEW SPOTS, AND IF YOU LOOK CAREFULLY YOU CAN TELL THAT IT'S RUSTING IN THE SHAPE OF A HAND PRINT. THAT'S BECAUSE THE SKIN ON YOUR HANDS CONTAINS MOISTURE, OILS, AND SLIGHTLY ACIDIC COMPOUNDS. SO EVERYWHERE THAT WE TOUCHED THE CAB WHEN WE WERE MOVING IT HAS STARTED TO FLASH RUST. NOW WE PROBABLY SHOULD HAVE BEEN WEARING GLOVES. I KNOW JEREMY'S GONNA GIVE ME A HARD TIME ON THAT ONE, BUT THIS IS JUST A GOOD DEMONSTRATION OF WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU IMPROPERLY HANDLE SHEET METAL. THERE'S FINGERPRINTS AND RUST PRINTS ALL OVER THIS THING. SO BEFORE WE GO ANY FARTHER WE NEED TO CLEAN OFF ALL THESE RUSTY SPOTS. WE'RE USING A RED SCOTCHBRITE PAD ON THE ANGLE GRINDER. THIS WILL BE SAFER ON THE OLDER THIN METAL THAN THE TRADITIONAL 36 GRIT DISC. JUST TAKE YOUR TIME AND MAKE SURE YOU GET ALL THE RUST SPOTS CAUSE THIS IS YOUR LAST CHANCE TO GET THEM BEFORE THEY GET SEALED IN PERMANENTLY.

(JEREMY)>> AND WHAT WE APPLY OVER BARE METAL IS EPOXY PRIMER, AND IT DOES TWO THINGS. ONE IS THAT IT CONTAINS A ZINC PHOSPHATE, WHICH IS A CORROSION INHIBITOR, AND THAT'S WHAT WILL PREVENT OUR METAL FROM EVER RUSTING AGAIN, AND SECOND, THIS IS A TWO COMPONENT SYSTEM. SO WHEN MIXED TOGETHER THEY CURE CHEMICALLY BY CROSS LINKING, AND THAT CREATES A FILM THAT BONDS TO THE METAL PRETTY MUCH LIKE GLUE. NOW ANOTHER COOL THING ABOUT THIS SYSTEM IS THAT WITHIN THE PROPER WINDOW YOU CAN ACTUALLY APPLY PRODUCTS RIGHT OVER THE TOP OF IT WITHOUT EVEN SANDING IT FIRST. THIS EPOXY PRIMER MIXES TWO TO ONE WITH THE ACTIVATOR. NOW THERE'S ALWAYS BEEN A HUGE DEBATE AMONG BODY MEN AND PAINTERS WHEN IT COMES TO AN EPOXY. A LOT OF GUYS SWEAR BY DOING THEIR METAL WORK AND BODY WORK IN BARE METAL, AND SOME PREFER DOING IT DIRECTLY OVER EPOXY PRIMER. NOW BOTH ARE CORRECT, BUT OVER THE YEARS OF TESTING BOTH METHODS I PREFER USING AN EPOXY. I LIKE THAT WE'RE ABLE TO GIVE OUR METAL AN ADDED LAYER OF PROTECTION, AND ALL WE NEED IS ONE COAT.

(LT)>> WITH THE PRIMER CURED ON THE OUTSIDE OF THIS CAB, WE'RE GONNA MOVE ON TO THE FUN STUFF AND MAKE A PRETTY SIGNIFICANT MODIFICATION TO THE OUTSIDE OF THIS CAB.

(JEREMY)>> YEAH THE ROOF LINES ON THESE TRUCKS, WELL THEY'RE KIND OF TALL, AND TO BE HONEST WITH YOU I DON'T REALLY LIKE THE WAY IT LOOKS. SO WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU AN OLD SCHOOL HOT RODDER'S TRICK THAT'S GONNA IMPROVE THE LOOKS OF THIS THING. WE'RE GONNA CHOP THE TOP.

(LT)>> SO ESSENTIALLY WHAT THAT MEANS IS WE'RE GONNA TAKE AND REMOVE A COUPLE OF INCHES OF MATERIAL FROM THE SIDE OF THIS CAB AND BRING DOWN THE ROOF.

(JEREMY)>> YEAH BUT FIRST THINGS FIRST, WE NEED TO FIGURE OUT HOW MUCH WE'RE GONNA CHOP THIS THING.

(LT)>> I FIGURE ABOUT A FOOT.

(JEREMY)>> A FOOT'S A LOT! YOU ALREADY CAN'T FIT IN IT, YOU KNOW THAT RIGHT?

(LT)>> I'LL STICK MY HEAD THROUGH THE TOP.

(NARRATOR)>> COMING UP, SOME GREAT IDEAS AND SOUND ADVICE FROM A SEASONED STREET ROD BUILDER.

(RICKY)>> I JUST WANTED TO GIVE IT THAT FAST LOOK, YOU KNOW?

(LT)>> WE SHOWED YOU WHAT WE WERE STARTING WITH, BUT THE END RESULT IS STILL UNCLEAR. WE WERE LUCKY TO FIND SOME INSPIRATION RIGHT IN OUR BACK YARD. THIS UNASSUMING BUILDING IS A TOY BOX FOR RICKY BOBBY'S ROD SHOP.

(RICKY)>> I'VE BUILT THEM AS QUICK AS 30 DAYS TO AS LONG AS, I'VE GOT ONE THAT'S IN THE SHOP HERE, IT'S BEEN HERE TWO YEARS.

(LT)>> IT'S ONE THING TO SEE A RENDERING OR A PICTURE, BUT WE WANTED TO SEE A COUPLE OF COMPLETED PROJECTS IN PERSON. THERE ARE SO MANY DIFFERENCES IN MODELA'S THROUGH THE YEARS, WE WANTED TO GET A QUICK LESSON FROM THE MASTER HIMSELF.

(RICKY)>> LIKE THIS COUPE THAT WE HAVE BEHIND US HERE. IT COME FACTORY WITH A ONE INCH CHOP ON IT, AND THE SEDAN HAS A LITTLE TALLER TOP ON IT. IT'S AN INCH TALLER, AND LIKE THE TRUCK THAT Y'ALL ARE BUILDING HAS AN INCH TALLER TOP ON IT. THE DOORS ON THIS ONE I THINK IS AN INCH AND THREE QUARTERS SHORTER THAN THE DOORS ON Y'ALLS TRUCK.

(LT)>> SINCE WE WEREN'T SURE HOW FAR WE WANTED TO CHOP OUR TRUCK, RICKY'S GONNA SHOW US THE WHOLE RANGE FROM MILD TO WILD, STARTING WITH THIS '32 SEDAN.

(RICKY)>> THIS IS A PRETTY TRADITIONAL CHOP. I DIDN'T CHOP THIS CAR, IT CAME TO ME.

(JEREMY)>> HOW MUCH DO YOU THINK THAT IS?

(RICKY)>> I'M PRETTY SURE IT'S THREE INCHES. I'M PRETTY SURE I CHECKED, AND FOR A TALL GUY LIKE LT THREE INCHES IS A LOT.

(JEREMY)>> YEAH!

(LT)>> WE LIKE IT BECAUSE IT LOOKS MILD AND KEEPS PEOPLE GUESSING IF IT'S BEEN CHOPPED OR NOT, BUT WE WANT TO SEE HOW IT LOOKS IF WE TOOK IT A STEP FURTHER.

(RICKY)>> PRETTY SURE THIS CAR HERE HAS GOT ABOUT FOUR AND A HALF INCHES OUT OF IT, AND THIS CAR WAS PARTIALLY CHOPPED WHEN I GOT IT, OR HAD BEEN CHOPPED, AND I WENT BACK AND CLEANED UP SOME STUFF, AND I THINK I'M GONNA RECHOP IT AGAIN BECAUSE IT'S JUST NOT AS MUCH AS I LIKE.

(LT)>> WHAT ARE SOME MISTAKES PEOPLE TYPICALLY MAKE WHEN THEY CHOP A TOP THE FIRST TIME?

(RICKY)>> WELL MOST OF THE TIME PEOPLE THINK THAT BECAUSE IT'S A MODELA AND IT'S A SQUARE CAR, THEY THINK THAT HEY I'M JUST GONNA CUT THE TOP OFF, AND IT'S GONNA DROP BACK ON THERE, AND I'M GONNA TACK IT ON, AND IT'S DONE. IT'S NOT THAT EASY. THE WINDOWS DON'T LINE UP. WHEN YOU GET DONE THE WINDOWS WON'T ROLL UP, OR THE BEAD LINE IN THE BACK IS AN INCH AND A HALF OFF. THERE'S A LOT TO IT, AND WHEN YOU CHOP A BUNCH OF THEM OVER TIME YOU'LL LEARN HOW TO CHOP THEM A LOT FASTER, A LOT EASIER.

(LT)>> TO GET A BETTER IDEA OF HOW RICKY LIKES TO BUILD THEM, CHECK OUT HIS SIGNATURE STYLE ON THIS HAMMERED '28 SEDAN.

(RICKY)>> I CHOPPED IT EIGHT IN THE FRONT AND SEVEN IN THE BACK. I JUST WANTED TO GIVE IT THAT FAST LOOK, YOU KNOW? AND I'M KIND OF PLEASED WITH IT, I LIKE IT.

(JEREMY)>> OH IT'S GOT THE LOOK MAN, IT LOOKS AWESOME!

(RICKY)>> I'VE DID A LITTLE MORE TO IT THAN JUST CHOP IT. IT'S ACTUALLY BEEN SHORTENED A FEW INCHES.

(JEREMY)>> A FEW?

(RICKY)>> YEAH, I'M NOT GONNA TELL HOW MANY.

(LT)>> BUT HE DID TELL US ABOUT HIS NEXT PROJECT.

(RICKY)>> I REALLY DON'T KNOW THE STORY ON VICKY'S, BUT THIS IS MY FAVORITE CAR IN THE WORLD. I'M NOT SURE WHY. IT'S SOMETHING ABOUT THE BACK OF IT'S ROUNDED. I LOVE THE WINDOW POST IS LAID BACK. IT HAS A LOT OF '32 TRINKETS ON IT ALL OVER IT. GARNISH MOLDINGS, EVERYTHING ABOUT IT IS '32 BUT THIS IS ACTUALLY A MODELA. I WAS BORN IN TO CARS. THAT'S ALL I KNOW. I HAVE TO DO IT. EVERYONE IS LIKE HAVING ANOTHER BABY, EVERYONE, AND I LOVE IT. I LOVE POLLENATING. I DO, I LOVE MAKING CARS, I DO, AND I LOVE SEEING PEOPLE DRIVE THEM. THAT'S THE COOLEST THING ABOUT HOT RODS. YOU KNOW YOU GO TO THESE SHOWS AND THESE PEOPLES GOT ALL THESE FANCY CARS. YOU KNOW, WE SAW THAT SHINNY ONE OVER THERE. THAT CAR'S NOT PERFECT. IT WAS NOT BUILT TO BE PERFECT. IT WAS BUILT TO BE DRIVEN, AND THAT'S WHAT THE MAN WILL DO WITH IT. I LOVE REALISTIC CARS, AND THAT'S WHAT I'LL BUILD OUT OF THIS CAR ONE DAY IS A REALISTIC CAR THAT I CAN GET IN WITH MY FAMILY AND MY KIDS, AND HAVE FUN IN IT, AND THEN WHEN THEY'RE NOT IN THERE HAVE A LOT OF FUN GOING THROUGH THE GEARS, YOU KNOW?

(NARRATOR)>> NEXT, YOU WAITED FOR IT, AND HERE IT COMES. THE CHOPPING OF A TOP BEGINS.

(LT)>> WE DEFINITELY HAD AN AWESOME TIME OUT TO SEE OUR FRIEND RICKY BOBBY, AND WE ARE INSPIRED AND MOTIVATED TO BUILD OURSELVES THE MOST RADICAL MODELA TRUCK THAT WE CAN.

(JEREMY)>> IT GAVE US A LOT OF IDEAS FOR HOW WE COULD CHOP THIS TOP. WE COULD DO A WEDGE, WHICH LOWERS THE FRONT MORE THAN THE REAR, BUT THAT MAY NOT LOOK SO GOOD ON A STANDARD CAB TRUCK. NOW WE COULD ALSO MAKE CUTS AROUND THE BACK GLASS. SO EVEN THOUGH WE'RE CHOPPING IT, IT LEAVES THE WINDOW THE SAME SIZE. KIND OF PLAYS TRICKS ON YOUR EYES AND MAKES YOU QUESTION IF IT'S EVEN BEEN CHOPPED. NOW THAT WOULD BE BENEFICIAL WHEN DOING AN EXTREME CHOP SO YOU DON'T HAVE A TINY SLIT FOR A BACK GLASS.

(LT)>> AFTER A BUNCH OF CAREFUL CONSIDERATION AND WEIGHING OUR OPTIONS WE DECIDED TO DO THE OLD SCHOOL TRADITIONAL STRAIGHT CHOP. WE'RE GONNA GO RIGHT THROUGH THE BACK WINDOW AND DOWN THE SIDES, TAKING THE SAME AMOUNT OF MATERIAL AWAY. IT'LL BRING THE ROOF STRAIGHT DOWN AND THE GLASS WILL GET JUST A LITTLE BIT SMALLER, AND WE'VE DECIDED TO TAKE OUT THREE INCHES.

(JEREMY)>> BUT BEFORE WE MAKE ANY CUTS WE WANT TO SMOOTH OUT SOME OF THIS METAL ON THE BACK OF THE CAB. SO WHEN WE MAKE OUR CUT IT ALL FITS BACK TOGETHER NICELY, AND TO DO THIS WE'RE GONNA USE SOME OLD FASHIONED HAMMER AND DOLLY WORK. I'M USING A BODY HAMMER WITH A TOE DOLLY. I'LL START WORKING ON THE INSIDE OF THE CAB, AND I'M DOING THIS TO WORK OUT THE LOW SPOTS IN THE METAL. MOVING TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE CAB, I CAN START WORKING THE HIGH SPOTS BACK DOWN. NOW THIS METAL IS VERY THIN. SO REMEMBER, LIGHT TAPS DO THE JOB, AND THE REASON WHY IS BECAUSE YOU CAN STRETCH THE METAL, AND SOMEONE'S ALREADY DONE THAT, AND THAT CREATES SOMETHING WE CALL AN OIL CAN. THERE'S A FEW WAYS YOU CAN GET RID OF THIS. ONE IS THAT YOU CAN TAKE A TORCH AND HEAT IT UP, AND IT BASICALLY MOVES THE METAL BACK WHERE IT CAME FROM AND GETS IT SOLID AGAIN. YOU COULD ALSO MAKE A CUT THROUGH THE OIL CAN AND WELD IT BACK UP, AND THAT PRETTY MUCH DOES THE SAME THING, BUT I'M GONNA SHOW YOU AN EASIER METHOD YOU CAN TRY FIRST BEFORE BRINGING OUT THOSE TOOLS. FIRST PLACE THE DOLLY ON THE INSIDE OF THE OIL CAN AND HOLD PRESSURE OUT ON IT. THEN USING THE BODY HAMMER, HIT THE SURROUNDING AREA IN A SWEEPING MOTION TOWARD THE CENTER OF THE OIL CAN, AND JUST LIKE THAT SHE'S BACK IN SHAPE. WELL WE'VE GOT THE BACK OF THE CAB LOOKING A WHOLE LOT BETTER, BUT WE DIDN'T METAL FINISH IT OUT OR MAKE IT PERFECT, OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT. WE JUST WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT WHEN WE DO THE CHOP THE TOP AND THE CAB FIT BACK TOGETHER NICELY. WE'LL FINISH ALL THIS OUT WHEN WE GET A LITTLE CLOSER TO THE BODY WORK STAGE, BUT RIGHT NOW WE NEED TO MAKE SURE THESE DOORS STAY IN PLACE. TO DO THAT WE'RE GONNA TACK WELD THE DOOR SHUT. THIS WILL MAKE IT WHERE WE CAN CUT THE DOORS AND THE ROOF TOGETHER IN ONE SHOT. ALSO THIS GIVES US THE BEST CHANCE FOR GETTING THE DOOR FRAME LINED BACK UP WHEN WE GO TO PUT IT BACK TOGETHER. NOW WE CAN START PULLING SOME MEASUREMENTS SO WE KNOW WHERE TO MAKE OUR CUTS. WE NEED TO MAKE THE CHOP BELOW THE UPPER DOOR HINGE. SO FROM THE TOP OF THE DOOR I'LL MARK AT SIX AND A HALF INCHES. THAT WILL PUT US CLOSE TO AN INCH UNDER THE DOOR HINGE. THEN PULL THE SAME MEASUREMENT AT THE BACK OF THE DOOR. WITH A ROLL OF THREE QUARTER INCH TAPE I'LL START A MARK ON THE BACK OF THE DRIVER DOOR AND PULL A STRAIGHT LINE ACROSS THE CAB UNTIL I MEET THE MARK ON THE PASSENGER DOOR. ONCE YOU'RE SURE EVERYTHING IS STRAIGHT, THEN WE CAN MEASURE THE THREE INCHES WE PLAN TO CUT OUT. [ saw cutting metal ]

(LT)>> WE'LL START BY CUTTING THE TOP LINE SO WE CAN FIRST REMOVE THE ROOF. WE'RE GONNA START OUT BY USING A CUTOFF WHEEL TO MAKE AN ACCURATE SLICE AROUND THE OUTSIDE EDGE OF THE APILLAR, GOING ALL THE WAY AROUND. THEN WE CAN CUT THE INSIDE PARTS THAT THE CUTOFF WHEEL COULDN'T REACH USING A SAWZALL. WELL NO TURING BACK NOW.

(JEREMY)>> YOU COULD CUT THE ENTIRE ROOF OFF WITH A SAW, BUT WE FOUND IT'S EASIER TO CONTROL A CUTOFF WHEEL, GIVING YOU CLEANER CUTS THAT DON'T DISTORT OR BEND THE METAL. ONCE WE'VE MADE IT ALL THE WAY AROUND, THE ROOF CAN COME OFF. HEY YOU CAN FIT IN IT NOW.

(LT)>> YEAH!

(JEREMY)>> AND BE SET ASIDE, AND WHEN WE COME BACK WE'LL GET THE LAST THREE INCHES CUT AWAY.

[ saw cutting metal ]

(LT)>> WE'RE CUTTING OUT THE LAST THREE INCHES OF OUR 1931 MODELA CAB, WHICH WILL COMPLETE A TRADITIONAL STYLE STRAIGHT CHOP. WELL IT DOESN'T GET MUCH SIMPLER THAN THAT. IT ONLY TOOK US ABOUT 15 MINUTES TO CUT THAT ENTIRE ROOF OFF THE MODELA.

(JEREMY)>> AND THE NEXT STEP FOR US IS TO CLEAN UP SOME OF THIS METAL WHERE WE MADE OUR CUTS, BUT YOU KNOW WHAT, I CAN'T HELP IT. I NEED TO SEE THAT ROOF ON THIS THING, AND PLUS WE NEED TO TEST FIT IT.

(LT)>> I'M ACTUALLY PRETTY IMPRESSED WITH HOW THE TWO HALVES OF THE ROOF HAVE COME TOGETHER. IN A PERFECT WORLD THEY WOULD TOUCH AND THERE'D BE NO SPACE IN BETWEEN THEM. OVER HERE THOUGH THERE'S A SLIGHT BUT CONSISTENT GAP ALL THE WAY DOWN THE BACK, AND IF YOU LOOK CLOSELY OVER HERE THERE'S A SMALL SECTION WHERE THE TWO PARTS ARE TOUCHING. SO ALL I'M GONNA HAVE TO DO IS COME IN AND GRIND AWAY JUST A LITTLE BIT OF MATERIAL. IT'LL CLOSE UP THE GAP AND WE'LL BE IN BUSINESS.

(JEREMY)>> THE APILLAR'S FITTING TOGETHER PRETTY GOOD BUT WE RAN INTO ONE SMALL PROBLEM. THE FACE OF THE APILLAR DOES NOT BUT DIRECTLY TOGETHER. THE TOP IS BACK JUST A LITTLE BIT. NOW THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM, AND IF YOU CHOP A MODELA YOU'RE PROBABLY GONNA RUN INTO THIS, BUT THERE'S A SIMPLE SOLUTION. ALL WE NEED TO DO IS MAKE A CUT ON EACH SIDE OF THE APILLAR ALONG THE BODY LINE. ONCE WE DO THAT WE CAN LAY THE BOTTOM PORTION BACK JUST A LITTLE BIT AND BRING OUT THE TOP A LITTLE, AND THEN HAVE A NICE, SMOOTH TRANSITION. WE'LL FIRST GRIND AWAY THE MATERIAL THAT WE ALREADY MARKED. THEN ALL WE REALLY WANT TO DO IS REMOVE A SMALL AMOUNT OF PRIMER AROUND THE SEAM. SO WHEN WE PUT IT BACK TOGETHER NOTHING WILL CONTAMINATE THE WELD. NOW YOU COULD USE MANY DIFFERENT TOOLS FOR THIS JOB, BUT WE'RE USING A COMBINATION OF THREE INCH 36 GRIT ROLL LOCKS AND FOUR AND A HALF INCH 60 GRIT FLAT WHEEL.

WITH THE METAL TRIMMED AND CLEANED UP, EVERYTHING'S LOOKING REALLY GOOD AND WE'RE READY TO START TACK WELDING IT ON. WE'RE GONNA START AT ONE END AND JUST KIND OF WORK OUR WAY AROUND, BUT FIRST I'LL GET THIS TOP CLAMPED DOWN. WE'RE USING STANDARD VICE GRIPS TO LINE UP THE METAL AND HOLD IT IN PLACE. REMEMBER, SMALL TACK WELDS SPACED FURTHER APART WILL PREVENT DISTORTION OF THE SHEET METAL. THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE ROOF WENT TOGETHER ALMOST PERFECTLY, BUT ANOTHER PROBLEM YOU MAY RUN INTO WHEN YOU CHOP ONE OF THESE, JUST LIKE WITH THE APILLARS, IS THAT THE TOP PORTION OF THE ROOF DOESN'T QUITE MATCH THE BOTTOM AROUND THE CURVE. STILL A PRETTY SIMPLE SOLUTION. ALL WE'RE GONNA DO IS MAKE A CUT ALONG THE TOP. THAT'S GONNA GIVE US ENOUGH ROOM TO MOVE THE METAL, MAKE THIS THING FIT TOGETHER. THIS IS A VERY COMMON SHEET METAL TECHNIQUE, AND SINCE WE'RE WORKING WITH 86 YEAR OLD STEEL IT EASILY MOVES RIGHT WHERE WE WANT IT. A TACK WELD OR TWO HOLDS IT IN PLACE. WE COULDN'T BE MORE PLEASED WITH HOW WELL THIS CHOP HAS TURNED OUT. EVERYTHING IS LOOKING REALLY GOOD, BUT QUITE A BIT MORE METAL WORK TO DO.

(LT)>> WELL WE DEFINITELY GOT INSPIRED TODAY, AND WITH THIS THREE INCH STRAIGHT CHOP ALMOST DONE WE ARE WELL ON OUR WAY TO HAVING A FULL CUSTOM 1931 MODELA TRUCK.

(JEREMY)>> YOU'VE SEEN US PAINT A LOT HERE AT POWERNATION, AND WE ALWAYS TRY TO PASS ON OUR KNOWLEDGE AND TIPS, BUT SOMETIMES WE JUST DON'T HAVE ENOUGH TIME TO GIVE YOU ALL THE DETAILS. MORE TIMES THAN NOT WE HAVE TO PASS UP THOSE BASICS TO SHOW YOU THE COOL STUFF. SO TODAY WE'RE GONNA TAKE A STEP BACK, TALK A LITTLE BIT ABOUT PAINT GUNS. THERE ARE A TON OF OPTIONS WHEN IT COMES TO GUNS. DIFFERENT BRANDS, DIFFERENT TYPES OF GUNS, AND DIFFERENT FLUID TIP SIZES. SO HOW DO YOU KNOW WHAT TO USE? THE FIRST GUN WE'RE GONNA TALK ABOUT IS AN OLD SCHOOL GUN. IF YOU KNEW A PAINTER SAY 30 OR SO YEARS AGO THIS IS PROBABLY WHAT YOU SAW THEM USE. THIS IS A CONVENTIONAL GUN. BASICALLY IT HAS A CUP DOWN LOW THAT HOLDS THE PAINT AND IT'S SIPHON FED. SO AIR GOES INTO THE GUN AND CREATES A VACUUM, AND DRAWS IT THROUGH THE TUBE. NOW THE DOWNFALL TO THIS GUN, OTHER THAN BEING BIG AND BULKY, IS IT TAKES A LOT OF AIR PRESSURE TO RUN IT. SO IF YOU'RE GETTING 30 PSI AT THE INLET OF THE GUN YOU'RE STILL GETTING 30 PSI AT THE AIR CAP. THEN WE HAVE GRAVITY FED GUNS. THE CUP SITS ON TOP OF THE GUN AND GRAVITY FEEDS PAINT TO IT. THEREFORE IT TAKES A LOT LESS AIR PRESSURE TO ATOMIZE PAINT BECAUSE WE'RE NOT HAVING TO CREATE A VACUUM. NOW THERE ARE TWO TYPES OF GRAVITY FED GUNS, A STANDARD AND AN HVLP. HVLP MEANS HIGH VOLUME, LOW PRESSURE. THESE GUNS ACTUALLY HAVE A RESTRICTOR INSIDE THAT RESTRICTS THE AIR. SO IF YOU'RE RUNNING 30 PSI AT THE INLET, THE AIR GETS RESTRICTED AND YOU'RE GETTING ABOUT 10 PSI AT THE AIR CAP. THAT'S GOOD, THAT'S WHAT YOU WANT. THAT MEANS LESS MATERIAL IS GOING OUT INTO THE ATMOSPHERE AND MORE MATERIAL IS GOING ONTO YOUR PANEL. THAT'S WHY THESE GUNS HAVE TAKEN OVER. NOW WITH A CONVENTIONAL GUN, I GUESS THEY STILL HAVE THEIR PURPOSE THERE'S JUST BETTER OPTIONS OUT THERE NOWADAYS, BUT THESE ARE GOOD FOR SPRAYING STUFF LIKE SOUND DEADENERS AND UNDERCOATING, BUT WHAT I USE THIS GUN FOR IS WHEN I DO UPHOLSTERY WORK I SPRAY MY GLUE THROUGH THEM. IT'S ALSO GOOD TO KNOW PARTS AND FUNCTIONS OF YOUR GUN. LIKE DOWN LOW, YOU HAVE A KNOB THAT CONTROLS AIR PRESSURE. ABOVE THAT YOU HAVE A FLUID KNOB. THIS CONTROLS HOW MUCH PAINT YOU LET COME THROUGH THE GUN, AND ABOVE THAT THERE'S A FAN CONTROL. THIS WILL CONTROL HOW WIDE OR TIGHT YOU SPRAY THROUGH THE AIR CAP. MOVING ON TO THE PARTS OF THE GUN. WE HAVE A NEEDLE THAT RUNS THROUGH THE INSIDE OF THE GUN, AND WHEN YOU PULL THE TRIGGER IT MOVES THE NEEDLE, ALLOWING FLUID TO PASS THROUGH. ON THE BACK YOU HAVE THE FLUID CONTROL. UP FRONT WE HAVE THE FLUID NOZZLE. NOW THIS COMES IN MANY DIFFERENT SIZES ALONG WITH NEEDLES DEPENDING ON WHAT TYPE OF MATERIAL YOU'RE SPRAYING. IF YOU'RE SPRAYING SOMETHING THICK YOU WANT A BIGGER NOZZLE. IF YOU'RE SPRAYING SOMETHING THINNER, LIKE A BASE COAT, YOU'LL GO A LITTLE SMALLER, AND UP FRONT WE HAVE THE AIR CAP. NOW THERE IS A LOT MORE TO TALK ABOUT. WE'LL SAVE THAT FOR NEXT TIME.
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