Parts Used In This Episode

Essentially Off-Road
High Steer Arms for Dana 60
Mickey Thompson
LT37X12.50R17 Baja Radial MTZ
Mickey Thompson
Sidebiter Gloss Black Wheels

Episode Transcript

(ANNOUNCER)>> JUST THREE LETTERS CAN TURN YOUR FULL SIZE PICK UP OR SUV INTO A CAPABLE OFF ROADER. TODAY ON XTREME FOUR BY FOUR, GOOD BYE INDEPENDENT FRONT, HELLO SAS. WE'LL TAKE YOU THROUGH THE STEPS ON HOW TO PERFORM A SOLID AXLE SWAP, PREPPING THE AXLE, MATCHING THE GEARING, AND A WHOLE LOT MORE.

(IAN)>> WHEN A MANUFACTURER DECIDES TO REMAKE A POPULAR MODEL, THEY KINDA ROLL THE DICE A LITTLE BIT. IF THEY MAKE A LOT OF CHANGES, IT COULD EFFECT THE SALES OF MILLIONS OF VEHICLES IF IT ENDS UP THEY'VE BUILT SOMETHING THAT YOU GUYS DON'T LIKE. NOW THAT IS EXACTLY WHAT GM DID IN 1988. FOR 14 YEARS THEY'D BEEN BUILDING THE EXACT SAME PICK UP TRUCK. AND WHEN THEY REDESIGNED IT, THEY THREW THE BOOK OUT THE WINDOW AND STARTED FROM SCRATCH. BEFORE THAT TRUCKS WERE SQUARE, UTILITARIAN, BUILT FOR WORK NOT FOR PLAY. IN 1988 THAT ALL CHANGED. THE TRUCKS WERE ROUNDED. THEY CAME WITH OPTIONS THAT PICK UP TRUCKS HAD NEVER HAD BEFORE. NOW THE BLAZER DIDN'T CATCH UP UNTIL 1992. IT KEPT THAT ORIGINAL SQUARE BODY STYLE, BUT WHEN IT DID IT WAS A HIT JUST LIKE THE TRUCK. EVEN THOUGH THE STYLING WAS GREAT AND THE CREATURE COMFORTS INSIDE MADE THE TRUCK JUST LIKE A BIG CAR, THE CHANGES UNDERNEATH WERE WHERE IT MATTERED. YOU COULD ARGUE THAT IT WAS THE BEGINNING OF THE END OF THE HARDCORE WORK TRUCK. THE NEW INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSION SYSTEM UNDERNEATH THE BLAZER AND PICK UP SLOWLY TURNED THEM INTO GLORIFIED MINI VANS. THEY RIDE GREAT, FUN TO DRIVE, BUT START ADDING LARGER WHEELS AND TIRES AND HIT THE TRAILS, AND YOU'RE GONNA FIND THE LIMITS OF THAT IFS SUSPENSION IN A HURRY. NOW WE'RE GONNA REMOVE ALL THE WEAK LINKS IN OUR IFS SETUP BY SIMPLY REPLACING THEM. WE'RE GONNA TAKE YOU GUYS STEP BY STEP THROUGH THE PROCESS OF PERFORMING A SOLID AXLE SWAP ON OUR BLAZER. I'M SURE SOME OF YOU GUYS ARE WONDERING, WHY DO WE GO THROUGH ALL THE TROUBLE OF CUTTING OUT ALL THE SUSPENSION AND THEN REPLACING IT WITH WHAT IS BASICALLY OLD TECHNOLOGY, USUALLY A SOLID AXLE ON A COUPLE OF LEAF SPRINGS. WELL IT HAS TO DO WITH THE WEAR LIMITS OF THE SOME OF THE COMPONENTS. SEE IFS HAS A LOT OF MOVING PARTS. IT'S GOT BALL JOINTS THAT NOT ONLY TWIST AND TURN AS THE WHEELS TURN, THEY ACTUALLY PIVOT AS IT TRAVELS UP AND DOWN. THE SAME WITH TE CV JOINTS, THERE'S A LOT OF DIFFERENT ANGLES AT PLAY HERE. IT'S GOT BUSHINGS IN BOTH THE LOWER AND UPPER CONTROL ARM THAT'LL ABSORB A LOT OF THE ROAD SHOCK. NOW THAT'S ALL FINE AND DANDY WHEN YOU'RE ROLLING AROUND ON A SET OF STOCK SIZE WHEELS AND TIRES. LIFT THE TRUCK UP, PUT A LIFT KIT ON IT, AND SOME OVERSIZED WHEELS AND TIRES, YOU'VE GOT THESE HEAVY DUTY DROP DOWN BRACKETS. THEY'RE CHANGING ALL THE LOAD ON THOSE PARTS AND THEY'LL WEAR OUT MORE FREQUENTLY. NOW THE PROBLEM WITH THAT IS THAT YOU'RE GONNA HAVE TO THROW SOME PARTS AT YOUR RIG EVERY NOW AND AGAIN. IF YOU START WHEELING IT HARDCORE, YOU'RE GONNA BREAK STUFF LEFT, RIGHT, AND CENTER. NOW DON'T GET ME WRONG. IFS SUSPENSION, IT'S GREAT FOR THE STREET. LIFT YOUR TRUCK UP, PUT SOME BIGGER WHEELS AND TIRES ON IT, IT'S GONNA RIDE GREAT AND LOOK GOOD DOWN AT THE MALL. BUT YOU WANT TO DO SOME SERIOUS WHEELING, ALL THIS STUFF'S GOTTA GO. IT MAY SEEM LIKE A LOT OF WORK, BUT TAKE YOUR TIME WHEN TEARING APART YOUR RIG. IF IT ALREADY HAS A LIFT ON IT LIKE OURS, SOMEONE WILL GIVE YOU GOOD MONEY FOR IT.

ANYONE CAN UNBOLT THIS STUFF, AND IF YOU PUT IT ALL TOGETHER AS A PACKAGE YOU SHOULD GET AN EASY $1,000 DOLLARS FOR THE WHOLE THING. ANOTHER BENEFIT TO THE SAS HAS TO DO WITH HOW THE IFS TRUCK IS SPRUNG. GM USES A TORSION BAR SYSTEM THAT BASICALLY TWISTS AND UNTWISTS TO CREATE THE SPRING. IF YOU ADDED A LOT OF WEIGHT TO THE TRUCK ON THE FRONT LIKE A HEAVY DUTY BUMPER OR SNOW PLOW, IT WOULD SAG UNDER THE LOAD. BY SWAPPING IN THE SOLID AXLE AND LEAF SPRING SET UP NOT ONLY WILL YOU BE GAINING STRENGTH AND NOT BE WORRIED ABOUT BOLTING ON OVERSIZED TIRES, BUT THE LEAF SPRINGS CAN VERY EASILY BE UPGRADED TO COMPENSATE FOR THAT EXTRA WEIGHT UP FRONT. BURNING!

(TOM)>> YEAH!

(IAN)>> THAT'S THE SECOND TIME TOM'S PUT OUT A FIRE FOR ME.

NOW THE FIRST REAL DECISION YOU'RE GONNA HAVE TO MAKE WHEN DOING YOUR SOLID AXLE SWAP IS CHOOSING THE RIGHT FRONT AXLE. NOW THIS IS WHERE YOU HAVE TO BE HONEST WITH YOURSELF. IF YOU'RE JUST PUTTING A SOLID AXLE UNDERNEATH YOUR RIG TO ELIMINATE COMPONENTS WEARING OUT ALL THE TIME BECAUSE OF OVERSIZED WHEELS AND TIRES AND YOU'RE JUST GONNA DRIVE THE RIG ON THE STREET, PICK YOURSELF UP A GOOD DANA 44 OR MAYBE EVEN A DANA 50. IT'LL WORK GREAT FOR THAT APPLICATION. BUT IF YOU WANT TO DO WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO, AND THAT IS EVENTUALLY TURN OUR BLAZER INTO A HARDCORE OFF ROADER, YOU DEFINITELY WANNA TRY TO FIND A GOOD HEAVY DUTY ONE TON AXLE. NOW WE WERE ABLE TO PICK UP THIS. THIS IS A FORD DRIVER'S SIDE DROP DANA 60. NOW THAT MEANS THAT THE INPUT IS ON THE CORRECT SIDE FOR OUR APPLICATION, AND BECAUSE IT'S THE FORD MODEL IT COMES WITH A HIGH PINION, WHICH IS GREAT FOR WHEN YOU'RE OUT WHEELING. IT ALSO IS FROM A LATE '70'S, EARLY '80'S FORD, AND THAT VEHICLE ALREADY HAD LEAF SPRINGS UNDER IT. SO WE DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT ADDING PERCHES. WE CAN BUILD OUR SOLID AXLE SWAP SETUP TO FIT ONTO THIS AXLE. NOW IF YOU ARE GONNA TURN YOUR RIG INTO A HEAVY DUTY WHEELER AND YOU'RE PUTTING THE 60 IN THE FRONT, YOU MIGHT AS WELL SWAP OUT THE REAR AXLE AT THE SAME TIME AND THAT'S WHAT WE'RE DOING. WE PICKED UP A GOOD OLE CORPORATE 14 BOLT THAT WE'LL BOLT IN THE BACK ONCE THE FRONT'S TAKEN CARE OF.

(ANNOUNCER)>> AFTER THE BREAK, FROM JUNKYARD OLD TO LIKE NEW, REHABBING THE ONE TONS. AND LATER ON WE'LL GO FOR A RIDE, STAY TUNED!

(IAN)>> WELCOME BACK TO XTREME 4X4. NOW WE'VE ALREADY CUT ALL OF OUR IFS BRACKETRY OFF OF OUR TRUCK, AND NOW IT'S TIME TO CLEAN UP THE AXLES. NOW CHOSE TO GET A DANA 60 INSTEAD OF A DANA 44. IT WAS ONLY $300 BUCKS MORE BUT IT'S CERTAINLY GONNA GIVE US THE STRENGTH THAT WE NEED WHEN IT'S TIME TO TAKE THIS TRUCK WHEELING. JUST LIKE THE FRAME, ALL THE STOCK BRACKETRY HAS GOT TO GO.

NOW BEFORE YOU JUST GO AHEAD AND THROW YOUR SOLID AXLE UNDERNEATH THE FRONT END OF YOUR PROJECT TRUCK, IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO GIVE IT A GOOD ONCE OVER AND CHECK OUT ANY OBVIOUS WEAR ITEMS. AS YOU CAN SEE, THIS FRONT AXLE JOINT IS DEFINITELY GARBAGE. SO WE'LL GO AHEAD AND REPLACE BOTH OF THEM ON EITHER SIDE, AND THEN WE'LL SWAP OUT BOTH THE BRAKE ROTOR AND A NEW SET OF PADS CAUSE IT'S COVERED IN SURFACE RUST FROM JUST LAYING OUT IN A FIELD. AND ONE OTHER THING THAT WE'RE GONNA WANNA CHECK IS BOTH THE GEAR RATIO IN THE FRONT AND REAR AXLE. SIMPLY POP THE COVERS OFF BECAUSE THESE AXLES CAME OUT OF TWO DIFFERENT TRUCKS, THEY'RE MORE THAN LIKELY DIFFERENT. EVEN THOUGH WE ONLY SEE THREE OBVIOUS PROBLEMS, IT'S STILL A GOOD IDEA TO COMPLETELY DISASSEMBLE THE AXLE. CHECK EVERY BEARING AND EVERY SEAL, CLEAN'EM, REPACK'EM, REPLACE WHAT'S NECESSARY BEFORE YOU PUT IT BACK TOGETHER. WHOO!

OUR FRONT DANA 60 HAS 41 TEETH ON THE RING AND 10 ON THE PINION. THAT GIVES US A 4.10 TO ONE RATIO, PRETTY GOOD FOR A MID SIZE OFF ROAD TIRE. NOW LETS CHECK THE REAR. WITH 41 TEETH ON THE RING AND 11 ON THE PINION, THAT MEANS THAT OUR REAR AXLE RATIO IS 3.73 TO ONE. THAT'S WHERE YOU HAVE TO MAKE A DECISION. YOU EITHER MATCH THE FRONT AXLE TO THE REAR OR THE REAR TO THE FRONT, AND IN THIS CASE WE'RE GONNA OPT TO GET THIS 14 BOLT INTO THE FOURS TO MATCH THE FRONT AXLE. NOW THIS IS WHERE WE RUN INTO SOMEWHAT OF A PROBLEM. THE 14 BOLT DOES NOT HAVE A 4.10 TO ONE RATIO AVAILABLE. THE CLOSEST RATIO WE CAN GET IS A 4.11 TO ONE OR A FOURELEVEN. NOW THAT'S NOT THAT BIG OF A DEAL. BEING OFF BY DECIMAL ZEROONE WHEN YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT A GEAR RATIO WILL NOT MAKE ANY DIFFERENCE WHEN YOU'RE OUT DRIVING THE RIG IN FOUR WHEEL DRIVE. SO NOW ALL WE HAVE TO DO IS SWAP THE GEARS IN THE REAR, COMPLETELY CLEAN UP BOTH THESE AXLES, GET A FRESH COAT OF PAINT ON THEM, AND THEN WE ARE FINALLY READY TO STUFF THEM UNDERNEATH OUR TRUCK.

ON THE FRONT OF OUR BLAZER, WE'RE GONNA BE INSTALLING ONE OF THE EASIEST TYPES OF SOLID AXLE SWAPS, AND THAT IS A LEAF SPRING SETUP. THE LEAF SPRINGS WILL NOT ONLY ACT AS A SET OF SPRINGS, BUT THEY ALSO LOCATE THE AXLE ONTO THE TRUCK. THE FIRST STEP IS TO BUILD THE FRONT SPRING POCKET. USE A PIECE OF STRUCTURAL RECTANGULAR STEEL TO CREATE A NEW CROSS MEMBER. WELD IT OUTSIDE OF THE TRUCK TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING STAYS SQUARE.

(ANNOUNCER)>> DON'T BE SQUARE, STICK AROUND FOR TIPS ON SPRING REPLACEMENT, HIGH STEER SETUP, AND MORE WHEN XTREME 4X4 CONTINUES!

(IAN)>> NOW WE'RE FINALLY AT THAT POINT WHERE WE HAVE OUR SOLID AXLE UNDERNEATH OUR TRUCK AND OUR LEAF SPRING IN PLACE. AND THIS IS POSSIBLY THE MOST COMPLICATED PART OF THE JOB, AND THAT IS THE LOCATION OF THE SWING SHACKLE AT THE BACK OF THE LEAF SPRING. YOU SEE YOU CAN'T JUST DRILL A HOLE AND MOUNT IT BECAUSE THE LEAF SPRING ACTS LIKE A SPRING. IT FLATTENS OUT AND EXTENDS AS YOU DRIVE DOWN THE ROAD. NOW YOU DEFINITELY WANT THE SPRING SHACKLE AT THE BACK OF THE LEAF SPRING. THAT WAY WHEN YOU GO OVER A BUMP OR IF YOU'RE TRAIL RIDING OR GO OVER A ROCK, THE TIRE MOVES UP AND SWINGS BACK. IT'LL MAKE THE RIDE A LOT BETTER. IT'LL MAKE THE TRUCK WORK BETTER OFF ROAD, BUT THERE IS A SPECIFIC WAY TO DETERMINE THE LOCATION OF THAT SHACKLE, AND HERE'S HOW YOU DO IT. YOU SIMPLY LOWER THE WEIGHT OF THE TRUCK DOWN ON TOP OF THE LEAF SPRING. ALLOW THE TRUCK TO FULLY COMPRESS THE LEAF SPRING UNTIL IT COMES OFF THE LIFT OR THE FLOOR JACK THAT YOU'RE USING. THEN YOU CAN MARK A HOLE DIRECTLY ABOVE THAT. THAT IS YOUR PIVOT POINT FOR YOUR SWING SHACKLE. WE'LL START BY CUTTING A HOLE IN THE FRAME RAIL TO MAKE ROOM FOR A BUSHING WE'LL MAKE OUT OF SOME INCH AND THREE QUARTER BY 120 WALL TUBING. WE'LL CUT THE TWO SHACKLE HALVES OUT OF SOME HALF INCH PLATE...

AND ASSEMBLE IT UNDER THE TRUCK. THERE ARE TWO AREAS OF CONCERN WHEN PERFORMING A SOLID AXLE SWAP ON A MODERN IFS VEHICLE. THE FIRST IS THE TRANSFER CASE AND THE SECOND IS THE STEERING. NOW BEFORE YOU EVEN THINK ABOUT CUTTING YOUR IFS BRACKETRY OFF, CRAWL UP UNDERNEATH YOUR TRUCK AND HAVE A LOOK AT YOUR TRANSFER CASE. YOU WANT TO LOOK AT THE FRONT OUTPUT ON THE CASE. NOW THIS IS NOT THE TRANSFER CASE OUT OF OUR TRUCK. IT'S OUT OF A DIFFERENT CHEVY PICK UP TRUCK. IF YOU HAVE A TRANSFER CASE THAT LOOKS LIKE THIS, THAT HAS SLIP YOKE BUILT INTO THE FRONT OUTPUT, YOU NEED TO CHANGE THIS. SEE WITH AN IFS TRUCK THE DIFFERENTIAL NEVER MOVES, IT'S FIXED. SO THE DRIVE SHAFT DOESN'T HAVE ANY SLIP BUILT INTO IT. IT'S BUILT INTO THIS TRANSFER CASE. IF YOU WERE TO GO AHEAD AND DO A SOLID AXLE SWAP AND LEAVE THE SLIP YOKE IN THIS FRONT OUTPUT, IT WOULD ACTUALLY COME OUT AS THE AXLE DROOPS AWAY WHEN YOU'RE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD. NOW THE DOWNFALL IS THERE'S ONLY ONE REAR FIX AND THAT IS TO COMPLETELY REPLACE THIS TRANSFER CASE. NOW WE LUCKED OUT ON OUR TRUCK BECAUSE WE CRAWLED UP UNDERNEATH IT BEFORE WE STARTED THIS JOB AND OUR TRANSFER CASE HAS A NICE FLAT FLANGE THAT WE CAN EASILY BOLT A C/V JOINT UP TO AND JUST CHANGE OUT OUR FRONT DRIVESHAFT. NOW THE STEERING ON THE OTHER HAND, THAT IS A TOTALLY DIFFERENT ANIMAL. LARGE SOLID AXLES LIKE THE DANA 60 THAT WE'VE PUT UNDERNEATH THE FRONT OF OUR BLAZER COME FROM THE FACTORY IN BIG TRUCKS SETUP IN WHAT'S CALLED A SPRING UNDER AXLE CONFIGURATION. THAT MEANS THAT THE AXLE HOUSING ITSELF WAS SITTING ON TOP OF THE LEAF SPRING PACK. NOW WE'VE GOT AHEAD AND FLIPPED THAT AND INSTALLED THE AXLE UNDERNEATH THE LEAF SPRING PACK IN WHAT'S CALLED A SPRING OVER AXLE SETUP. NOW THAT GIVES US MORE CLEARANCE FOR LARGER TIRES AND WHEELS. THE DOWNFALL OF THAT IS IT EFFECTS THE STEERING. SEE THERE'S A DRAG LINK THAT ATTACHED FROM THE STEERING BOX DOWN HERE TO THIS OUTER KNUCKLE. NOW WHEN YOU PUT THE SPRING ON TOP OF THE AXLE AND TURN ALL THE WAY TO THE LEFT, THE SPRING WILL ACTUALLY CONTACT THE DRAG LINK LIMITING YOUR ABILITY TO STEER. NOW THERE'S TWO WAYS TO FIX THIS. THE FIRST IS THE WAY THAT WE NEVER WANT TO SEE DONE, AND THAT IS TAKING THAT DRAG LINK, BENDING IT AROUND AND COMING UNDERNEATH THE SPRING, AND PUTTING BASICALLY AN "S" SHAPE INTO IT. THE PROBLEM WITH THAT IS THAT WEAKENS THAT DRAG LINK. YOU'RE OUT DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD, HIT A BIG BUMP WITH THIS RIGHT FRONT TIRE, AND THE DRAG LINK WILL BEND AND YOU'LL LOSE CONTROL OF YOUR TRUCK. THE BETTER SOLUTION IS TO CONVERT IT OVER TO WHAT'S CALLED A HIGH STEER SETUP. NOW WE GOT THESE HIGH STEERING ARMS FROM ESSENTIALLY OFF ROAD. THEY'LL SIMPLY REPLACE THE KING PIN CAP ON TOP OF THE KNUCKLE. NOW THE DRAG LINK WILL COME FROM THE STEERING BOX DOWN TO THE TOP SIDE OF THIS KNUCKLE AND THE TIRE ROD THAT CONNECTS THE OTHER SIDE OF THE AXLE WILL ALSO TRAVEL ABOVE THE SPRING. IT'LL KEEP THEM UP OUT OF THE WAY OF TRAIL OBSTACLES, BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY THEY'LL BE NICE, STRAIGHT, STRONG PIECES OF TUBING THAT WON'T BEND WHEN WE'RE DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY.

(ANNOUNCER)>> NEXT, AFTER BIGGER WHEELS AND TIRES, OUR FULL SIZE BLAZER WILL BE READY FOR A TRIAL RUN, STAY TUNED!

(IAN)>> WELL WE'VE FINISHED UP THE SOLID AXLE SWAP ON THE FRONT OF OUR BLAZER AND TO ROUND OUT THE PROJECT WENT AHEAD AND BOLTED IN THAT 14 BOLT REAR THAT WE PICKED UP FROM THE JUNKYARD ONTO THE FACTORY LEAF SPRINGS REUSING THE LIFT BLOCKS THAT WERE ALREADY INSTALLED BECAUSE THIS TRUCK HAD THAT INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSION LIFT KIT ON IT. NOW IT'S TIME FOR SOME TIRES AND WHEELS. NOW BECAUSE THIS IS A DUAL PURPOSE TRUCK, WE DECIDED TO ROLL WITH A SET OF MICKEY THOMPSON BAJA MTZ RADIALS. NOW WE'VE INSTALLED THESE BEFORE ON DAILY DRIVER WEEKEND WHEELERS, AND THE COMPOUND OF THE TIRE IS REALLY GOOD. HARD ENOUGH TO DRIVE ON THE STREET EVERYDAY, BUT WHEN YOU NEED TO HEAT THEM UP ON THE ROCKS TO GET A LITTLE BIT OF EXTRA TRACTION, A COUPLE OF SPINS AND THEY GET GOOD AND STICKY. I WENT AHEAD AND MOUNTED THEM UP ON SOME 17 BY NINE MICKEY THOMPSON SIDE BITER WHEELS. THIS IS A HEAVY DUTY ALUMINUM WHEEL WITH THAT GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT FINISH THAT WILL NOT ONLY LOOK GREAT BECAUSE OF OUR BLACK BLAZER, BUT ALSO BE VERY EASY TO KEEP CLEAN. NOW ONE UNIQUE FEATURE ABOUT THIS RIM HAS TO DO WITH THE CENTER CAP. NOW THE CENTER CAP ITSELF DOES NOT SLIDE IN FROM THE BACK SIDE OF THE RIM. IT BOLTS ONTO THE FRONT WITH SOME SMALL ALLEN HEAD FASTENERS. NOW THE REASON THAT IS GOOD BECAUSE WE HAVE A FULL FLOAT REAR AXLE IN THIS TRUCK. IF WE EVER NEED TO SERVICE IT ON THE TRAIL, WE CAN SIMPLY REMOVE THE CENTER CAP, GET ACCESS TO THE BOLTS HOLDING THE AXLE IN, AND SLIDE THAT AXLE OUT. THAT WAY WE DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE TIRE AND WHEEL. WHEN WE'RE RUNNING ON THE STREET, WE'LL INSTALL THEM, HAVE THOSE GOOD LOOKS. RUNNING ON THE TRAIL, SIMPLY PULL THEM OFF, HAVE THE ACCESSIBILITY TO THAT REAR AXLE.

THERE IS NO QUESTION THAT THE LOOK OF OUR BLAZER HAS COMPLETELY CHANGED. WHAT LOOKED A LITTLE SOCCER MOMISH IS NOW A HARDCORE TRUCK JUST BY ADDING THAT MONSTER DANA 60 UNDER THE FRONT. NOW THE RIDE MAY BE A LITTLE BIT STIFFER SINCE WE DITCHED THE IFS, BUT NOW WE DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT PARTS WEARING OUT. WE'LL NEVER REPLACE ANOTHER BALL JOINT, C/V JOINT, OR UNIBEARING AGAIN. SO THAT TRADE OFF ALONE IS WORTH IT FOR THE HARSHER RIDE. HONESTLY, I PREFER THE RIDE RIGHT NOW. IT KINDA FEELS MORE LIKE A TRUCK. YOU MAY WONDER, WAS ALL THIS WORK REALLY WORTHWHILE? WELL FOR $900 BUCKS WE GOT THE TWO AXLES, AND IT COSTS US A TOTAL OF $450 BUCKS TO REBUILD THEM BOTH AND MATCH THE GEAR RATIO. LEAF SPRINGS, UBOLTS, BRACKETS, AND THE STEEL TO DO THE SOLID AXLE SWAP CAME IN AT JUST UNDER $100 BUCKS. NOW THAT'S A TOTAL OF $1,450 FOR A FULL SOLID AXLE SWAP. A GOOD SIX INCH IFS LIFT FOR THIS TRUCK CAN COST ANYWHERE FROM $1,600 TO $2,000 BUCKS. SO NOT ONLY WAS IT CHEAPER TO DO THE SOLID AXLE SWAP, BUT IT MADE THIS TRUCK A LOT STRONGER. DETAILS ON ANY OF THE PRODUCTS USED IN THIS EPISODE, GO TO POWERBLOCK TV DOT COM!
Show Full Transcript

Comments