Truck Tech Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

LMC Truck
Drop Beam Set - 45-2635
LMC Truck
Drop Shocks - 45-2680/45-2689
LMC Truck
Hanger & Shackle Set - 45-2651
LMC Truck
Performance Front Sway Bar
The Industrial Depot
Hardware, Fasteners and Shop Supplies

Episode Transcript

(NARRATOR)>> THIS WEEK ON TRUCK TECH OUR STOCK 1974 F-100 PICK UP PROJECTS GETS THE FIRST ROUND OF MUCH NEEDED MODIFICATIONS WITH A COMPLETE SUSPENSION UPGRADE. SAY GOODBYE TO BODY ROLL!

(JEREMY)>> YOU GUYS PROBABLY REMEMBER OUR 1974 F-100 THAT WE PICKED UP NOT TOO LONG AGO. NOW SHE'S WEARING ABOUT A 15 YEAR OLD RESTORATION BUT HEY, OVERALL, SHE'S PRETTY NICE.

(LT)>> AT FIRST GLANCE YOU MIGHT THINK WE ARE JUST GETTING FINISHED UP WITH THIS PROJECT BUT ACTUALLY WE'RE JUST GETTING STARTED. SO WHY BEGIN WITH A TRUCK THAT IS SO NICE LIKE THIS ONE IS? WELL WE ARE DEEP IN THE MIDDLE OF TWO RESTORATIONS AT THE MOMENT, OUR MODELA AND THE KFIVE, AND ALSO I'M JUST SICK OF BLOCK SANDING. SO WE FIGURED WHY DON'T WE START A PROJECT WHERE WE CAN GET RIGHT TO THE FUN STUFF, MAKING THE TRUCK GO FASTER.

(JEREMY)>> I CAN'T SAY I REALLY BLAME YOU FOR THAT. I'M KIND OF TIRED OF IT MYSELF, BUT NOT TOO LONG AGO WE TOOK OUR F-100 OUT TO THE ROAD COURSE AND HAD A LITTLE FUN WITH IT, AND ALSO DID SOME BASELINE TESTING TO SEE WHERE THE TRUCK STANDS AS FAR AS BRAKING, ACCELERATION, AND HANDLING, AND I'M HERE TO TELL YOU, 1974 TECHNOLOGY HAS NO BUSINESS BEING OUT ON THE ROAD COURSE. TWIN IBEAMS MAY HAVE BEEN FINE FOR A SMOOTH RIDE BACK IN THE '70'S BUT DEFINITELY LEAVES SOMETHING TO BE DESIRED OUT ON THE TRACK. WHEN WE PUSHED THE TRUCK HARD THROUGH THE SLALOM THE BODY ROLL WAS EXTREMELY BAD, AND WHEN WE PUSHED THE TRUCK THROUGH A CORNER HARD THE TIRES WERE BEGGING FOR MORE GRIP.

(LT)>> LUCKILY THE TRUCK ONLY MADE 146 HORSEPOWER AT THE REAR WHEELS. SO WE COULDN'T REALLY GET INTO MUCH TROUBLE EVEN IF WE HELD THE THROTTLE PINNED TO THE FLOOR. SO WE HAVE OUR WORK CUT OUT FOR US IF WE'RE GONNA MAKE THIS TRUCK ACT LIKE BELONGS ON A ROAD COURSE CAUSE LET'S FACE IT, IT'S A TRUCK. WE'RE ACTUALLY GONNA ACCOMPLISH THIS IN TWO SEPARATE STAGES, AND NUMBER ONE IS GOING TO BE MORE OF A BUDGET MINDED BUILD. WE'VE SET OURSELVES AN ALL IN PARTS BUDGET OF ABOUT $7,000 BUCKS, AND WE'RE GONNA TRY TO MODIFY ALL THE IMPORTANT AREAS OF THE DRIVETRAIN TO MAKE THIS TRUCK HANDLE QUITE A LOT BETTER.

(JEREMY)>> AND ONCE WE FINISH STAGE ONE THAT'S WHEN WE REALLY GET TO HAVE SOME FUN BECAUSE WE'RE GOING ALL OUT. WE'RE GONNA PUT THIS F-100 DOWN ON A NEW CHASSIS EQUIPPED WITH LARGER BRAKES, COIL OVER SUSPENSION, AND BIG SWAY BARS. THEN WE'RE GONNA CRAM IN A MODERN ENGINE WITH A POWER ADDER. WE'RE GONNA TRY TO MAKE FOUR OR FIVE TIMES MORE HORSEPOWER THAN THE F-100 PUTS DOWN NOW, AND OUR END GOAL IS TO HAVE A PRO TOURING CLASSIC F-100.

(LT)>> NOW ALL THAT STUFF IS GREAT BUT IT'S GONNA HAVE TO WAIT JUST A LITTLE BIT CAUSE TODAY WE'RE GONNA BE BOLTING ON A SUSPENSION SETUP THAT'LL LOWER THE CENTER OF GRAVITY OF THIS TRUCK JUST A LITTLE BIT, AND WE'LL THROW ON SOME SWAY BARS. SO HOPEFULLY WE CAN MAKE THIS THING HANDLE JUST A LITTLE BIT MORE LIKE A CORVETTE AND A LITTLE BIT LESS LIKE A CANOE.

(JEREMY)>> LIKE ALWAYS WE'LL START BY PULLING OFF THE WHEELS. THEN THE REAR SHOCKS HAVE TO GO BECAUSE THEY'LL GET REPLACED. STANDS ARE BROUGHT IN TO SUPPORT THE AXLE. THEN THE LEAF SPRING BOLTS ARE REMOVED.

(LT)>> MY PLAN HAS A FLAW IN IT.

(JEREMY)>> I KNOW IT DOES! NEXT COMES THE TASK EVERYBODY HATES, DEALING WITH FRAME RIVETS. OUR PREFERRED METHOD IS TO USE A CUTOFF WHEEL TO MAKE SOME SLICES IN THE HEAD OF THE RIVET. THEN AN AIR CHISEL CAN EASILY REMOVE THE HEAD SO THE RIVET CAN BE DRIVEN FROM THE FRAME. [ air chisel vibrating ]

(JEREMY)>> WELL I HAD A FEELING THAT THIS LOWER RIVET WAS GONNA GIVE US JUST A LITTLE BIT OF TROUBLE BECAUSE THERE'S ACTUALLY A CROSS MEMBER THAT RUNS IN BETWEEN THE FRAME RAILS, AND THERE'S ANOTHER PIECE OF METAL, AND THEY'RE ALL SANDWICHED TOGETHER AND THE RIVET'S GOING THROUGH ALL OF THEM. SO I'M GONNA GET LT OVER HERE, GET HIM TO HEAT UP THE BACK SIDE OF THIS RIVET UNTIL IT GETS CHERRY RED AND SEE IF WE CAN FREE THIS THING UP. HEY MAN, PUT SOME HEAT ON THIS THING FOR ME.

(LT)>> THINK THAT'S ENOUGH?

(JEREMY)>> I DON'T THINK THAT'LL GET IT. THAT WAS CUTE THOUGH. WE'RE USING AN OXYACETYLENE TORCH WITH A BRAZING TIP, WHICH QUICKLY HEATS THE RIVET UP CHERRY RED.

(LT)>> NEED MORE HEAT ON THAT THING?

(JEREMY)>> YOU KNOW WHAT MAN, I THINK I'VE ALMOST GOT IT. [ air chisel vibrating ]

(JEREMY)>> YEP! WITH A LITTLE MORE PERSUASION WE CAN MOVE ON TO THE LAST RIVETS AND REMOVE THE SPRING HANGER FROM THE FRAME. A FEW MORE SECONDS OF HAMMERING, THE LAST RIVET IS CLEAR.

(LT)>> LIKE WE MENTIONED EARLIER, WE'RE GONNA BE LOWERING THIS TRUCK WITH A BASIC BOLT ON SUSPENSION SETUP FOR OUR FIRST ROUND OF UPGRADES, AND SINCE PARTS FOR THESE F-100'S ARE GETTING JUST A LITTLE BIT HARDER TO FIND WE WENT TO LMC TRUCK FOR ALL OF OUR SUSPENSION UPGRADES TODAY. WE'RE GONNA GET STARTED OUT BACK WITH A DIFFERENT SPRING HANGER. AS YOU CAN SEE, THE MOUNT POINT FOR THE LEAF SPRING HAS BEEN RAISED UP QUITE A BIT. THIS WILL LOWER THE TRUCK, ESPECIALLY WHEN WE COMBINE IT WITH A LONGER SHACKLE. THIS GIVES US A TOTAL OF FOUR INCHES DROP OUT BACK. NOW OF COURSE WE'RE GONNA COMBINE THAT WITH A NEW SHORTER SHOCK FOR A NICE SMOOTH RIDE BEING CLOSER TO THE GROUND. OUT FRONT IT'S ACTUALLY QUITE EASY TO LOWER ONE OF THESE TRUCKS. ALL WE'RE GONNA BE DOING IS BOLTING ON ONE OF THESE DROPPED IBEAMS. WE CAN STILL USE OUR STOCK COIL SPRINGS, RADIUS ARMS, AND OUR HUBS. LOWERING THE CENTER OF GRAVITY OF THIS TRUCK WILL DEFINITELY IMPROVE ITS HANDLING, AND ALL THESE PARTS TOGETHER WOULD BE CONSIDERED A THREEFOUR DROP, BUT WE STILL WON'T DO ANYTHING TO FIX ALL THAT BODY ROLL. SO WE ALSO PICKED UP A SWAY BAR KIT FOR THE FRONT AND REAR. THIS WILL LET US REALLY PUSH THE TRUCK HARD INTO THE CORNERS FOR NICE, FLAT HANDLING. SO OUR INSTALLATION STARTS BY BOLTING ON SOME SPRING HANGERS. THE NEW DROP HANGER EASILY BOLTS IN PLACE OF THE STOCK ONE WITH FOUR BOLTS. THEN THE SPRING IS RAISED INTO PLACE AND THE ORIGINAL HARDWARE SECURES IT. COMING UP WE'LL SWAP OUT THAT SHACKLE.

(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT, THERE'S A LOT OF OLD, OUTDATED TECHNOLOGY THAT NEEDS TO GO AND PLENTY OF NEW TO REPLACE IT WITH.

(LT)>> WE'VE GOT THE FRONT SPRING HANGER INSTALLED, WHICH MEANS IT'S TIME TO MOVE ON TO THE LONGER REAR SHACKLE, WHICH WILL FINISH UP LOWER THE REAR END OF OUR F-100, BUT I'M RUNNING INTO A BIT OF A PROBLEM WHEN TRYING TO TAKE OUT THE LOWER PIVOT BOWL, AND IT'S ACTUALLY KIND OF COMMON WHEN YOU'RE WORKING ON OLDER SUSPENSION PARTS. LET ME SHOW YOU WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT.

WELL HERE'S THE DEAL. WE CAN HIT THAT THING AS HARD AS WE WANT AND IT'S NOT BUDGING, AND THAT'S A 14 POUND SLEDGE HAMMER. BASICALLY WHAT'S GOING ON, THERE'S A STEEL SLEEVE INSIDE THE END OF THE BUSHING ON THE BOTTOM OF THE SHACKLE. NOW THE BOLT SLIDES IN AND IT'S A PRETTY TIGHT FIT, BUT OVER THE LAST 40 SOMETHING YEARS RUST AND CORROSION HAS FORMED INSIDE THAT SLEEVE, BASICALLY FREEZING THE BOLT IN PLACE. SO NO MATTER HOW HARD WE HIT IT ALL WE'RE DOING IS BENDING THE TAB AND THAT'S NOT GONNA COME OUT. TYPICALLY YOU TAKE AND HEAT UP THAT STEEL SLEEVE WITH A TORCH BUT IT'S ENCASED INSIDE A BUSHING. SO YOU'D HAVE TO MELT AND BURN AWAY THE ENTIRE BUSHING BEFORE THE HEAT COULD GET TO THE SLEEVE. NOW THAT'S JUST GONNA STINK UP THE SHOP AND MAKE A HUGE MESS. SO REALLY THAT'S A LAST RESORT OPTION. SO WE ARE GONNA HAVE TO GET JUST A LITTLE BIT CREATIVE TO GET THAT STUBBORN BOLT OUT OF ITS HOME. I'LL TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE GAP THAT WAS CREATED WITH A BIG HAMMER AND USE IT TO CUT THROUGH THE EXPOSED PART OF THE BOLT. I'LL HAVE TO STOP HALF WAY THROUGH AND TURN IT TO GET DEEP ENOUGH TO COMPLETE THE CUT. WITH A LITTLE MORE GRINDING AND A QUICK TWIST THE FIRST HALF OF THE BOLT FALLS OUT. THERE WE GO! NEXT I'LL CUT THE HEAD OF THE BOLT ON THE OTHER END, POP OFF THE WASHER. MAN EVEN THE WASHER'S RUSTED ON. THEN GRIND THE REMAINING BOLT FLUSH WITH THE HANGER. AFTER THAT ALL IT TAKES IS A FEW TAPS OF THE HAMMER AND THE SHACKLE IS FREE. HA, HA, GOT YA! THEN I'LL TAKE OFF THE NUT FOR THE UPPER BOLT. IT'S FEELING A LITTLE BIT LOOSER THAN THE LAST ONE. MAYBE WE'LL GET LUCKY. NEXT THE FENDER BRACE HAS TO BE MOVED ASIDE TO GET THE SPRING HIGH ENOUGH TO REMOVE THE BOLT. ALL RIGHT, WE'RE RUNNING INTO ANOTHER LITTLE PROBLEM, NOT THAT BIG OF A DEAL THOUGH. THE LEAF SPRING IS ALL THE WAY UP AND I NEED TO PUSH THE BOLT OUT BACKWARDS, BUT UNFORTUNATELY THERE'S A BED SUPPORT BRACE RIGHT BEHIND THE HEAD OF THE BOLT. SO IT'S GONNA HIT. NOW USUALLY IN A SITUATION LIKE THIS THERE'S A COUPLE OF THINGS YOU COULD DO. YOU COULD UNBOLT THE BED AND RAISE IT UP OR YOU COULD COMPLETELY UNBOLT THE LEAF SPRING FROM THE VEHICLE. BOTH OF THOSE TAKE A LOT OF TIME BUT I DO HAVE ONE SHORTCUT THAT MIGHT WORK. REMEMBER, AS YOU COMPRESS A LEAF SPRING IT ACTUALLY GETS LONGER. SO I'M HOPING THAT I CAN JACK UP THE AXLE A LITTLE BIT MORE AND IT'LL COMPRESS THE LEAF SPRING AND PUSH IT BACKWARDS JUST ENOUGH TO GET THAT BOLT OUT. IT'S WORTH A SHOT ANYWAY. AS WE RAISE THE AXLE UP IT DOES EXACTLY WHAT WE NEED, AND EASILY MOVES FAR BACKWARD ENOUGH TO GET THE BOLT OUT WITH NO MORE CUTTING OR REMOVING PARTS. THE NEW SHACKLE SLIDES INTO PLACE WITH A NEW SHORTER BOLT THAT ALLOWS IT TO GO IN FROM THE OPPOSITE END. THE OLD UPPER BOLT IS NOW USED ON THE BOTTOM OF THE SHACKLE. ALL RIGHT WE'RE GONNA GET THESE THINGS SNUG BUT FULLY TIGHTEN THEM UP WHEN THE TRUCK'S ON THE GROUND. TO FINISH OUT THE FIRST SIDE OF THE REAR OUR NEW SHORTER SHOCKS ARE INSTALLED.

(NARRATOR)>> WE'RE STARTING UP FRONT NEXT WITH HOPES OF LESS DEMOLITION.

(LT)>> THERE WE GO!

(JEREMY)>> NOW THAT WE'VE GOT THE BACK FINISHED UP WE CAN MOVE ON TO THE FRONT OF OUR F-100. NOW THESE CAME FROM THE FACTORY WITH AN IBEAM SUSPENSION SETUP. YOU CAN SEE ON THE END OF EACH BEAM THERE'S A PIVOT POINT. WE'VE GOT A COIL SPRING THAT RIDES ON TOP OF THE BEAM AND A RADIUS ARM THAT BOLTS ONTO IT THAT HOLDS EVERYTHING IN PLACE FRONT TO BACK. NOW THESE SETUPS ACTUALLY RIDE REALLY GOOD AND OFF ROAD GUYS LOVE THEM BECAUSE YOU CAN GET A TON OF SUSPENSION TRAVEL OUT OF THESE, BUT WHEN IT COMES TO PERFORMANCE ON THE PAVEMENT IT'S NOT SO GOOD, AND UNLIKE A C-10 THAT HAS A CONTROL ARM STYLE SETUP, THERE ARE A TON OF OPTIONS OUT THERE TO MAKE THOSE HANDLE LIKE A SPORTS CAR. THERE'S NOT SO MANY OPTIONS FOR THE F-100 BUT LUCKILY FOR US LMC TRUCK HAD EXACTLY WHAT WE NEEDED. SO WE PICKED UP A SET OF THESE DROP IBEAMS. IT'S GONNA GET THE TRUCK A LITTLE CLOSER TO THE GROUND, AND THEN ONCE WE ADD THAT SWAY BAR WE'LL BE HEADING IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION ON A BUDGET. THE FIRST ORDER OF BUSINESS IS REMOVING THE COTTER PIN FROM THE TIE ROD. NICE AND CRUSTY. THEN THE CASTLE NUT COMES OFF, AND BY WHACKING THE END OF THE SPINDLE THE TAPER BREAKS FREE, AND THE THREADS ON THE TIE ROD ARE PRESERVED. NEXT WE NEED TO SCRAPE OFF THE GREASE AND THE DIRT THAT'S COLLECTED AROUND THE KINGPIN DUST CAPS, AND THEY CAN BE REMOVED WITH A SEVENEIGHTHS SOCKET. THERE'S A CAP ON THE BOTTOM AND THE TOP. THE CALIPER RETAINER IS PUNCH AWAY WITH A BRASS DRIFT AND THE CALIPER IS HUNG FROM THE FRAME WITH A ZIP TIE SO WE DON'T STRESS THE BRAKE LINE. ALL RIGHT, THE NEXT THING FOR US IS TO KNOCK THIS KINGPIN OUT. IT GOES THROUGH THE SPINDLE AND THE IBEAM AND IT HOLDS THE TWO TOGETHER. NOW I'VE WORKED ON QUITE A FEW OF THESE IBEAM TRUCKS AND THAT KINGPIN TYPICALLY DOESN'T COME OUT VERY EASY, BUT WE WANT TO REUSE IT IF WE CAN. SO I'M GONNA GIVE IT A FEW LIGHT TAPS WITH A HAMMER, SEE IF WE CAN PERSUADE IT OUT OF THERE, BUT IF NOT WE MAY JUST GET TO HAVE A LITTLE FUN WITH IT.

[ hammer banging metal ]

(JEREMY)>> LT YOU MAY WANT TO GET THAT TORCH READY.

(LT)>> WE'RE USING OUR TRUSTY FRIEND, THE OXY ACETYLENE TORCH TO HEAT THE END OF THE IBEAM, AND IT NEEDS TO GET HOT. I'M KEEPING THE HEAT AWAY FROM THE SPINDLE BECAUSE WE ARE GOING TO REUSE THAT. NOW ONE VERY IMPORTANT THING TO REMEMBER WHEN YOU'RE WORKING WITH A TORCH AND GREASE. THAT STUFF GETS REALLY, REALLY HOT, AND WHEN YOU BANG ON IT WITH A HAMMER IT LIKES TO FLY AROUND. SO PROTECT YOUR FACE. ALL IT TAKES IS A FEW GOOD WHACKS AND THE KINGPIN COMES OUT UNDAMAGED. THEN THE HUB ASSEMBLY CAN BE REMOVED.

(JEREMY)>> HEY TAKE THAT BOLT OUT.

(LT)>> THERE WE GO!

(JEREMY)>> NOW THE COTTER PIN AND CASTLE NUT ARE REMOVED FROM THE BACK OF THE RADIUS ARM. THEN WE'LL TRY AND LOOSEN THE BOLT THAT GOES THROUGH THE RADIUS ARM AND IBEAM, BUT IT'S NOT BUDGING. SO WE'LL BREAK OUT THE TORCH.

(LT)>> ALL RIGHT MAN, GIVE THAT A SHOT.

(JEREMY)>> THEN WE CAN PULL OFF THE NUT. NEXT THE LOWER SHOCK BOLT COMES OFF AND WE CAN LOOSEN AND REMOVE THE IBEAM PIVOT BOLT, AND REMOVE THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY FROM THE TRUCK. GOT IT?

(LT)>> YEP. DID YOU KNOW THERE'S ANOTHER NUT UNDER THAT?

(JEREMY)>> WELL I REMEMBER THAT THERE'S NUT UNDER THERE NOW THAT I SEE IT AGAIN, BUT I KNOW THAT BOLT WAS FROZEN UP IN THERE. SO AT LEAST WE WENT AHEAD AND BROKE IT LOOSE.

(LT)>> WELL I'M GLAD I COULD REFRESH YOUR MEMORY. THE SECOND NUT IS UNSCREWED AND THE RADIUS ARM IS REMOVED FROM THE IBEAM, AND WE CAN INSTALL SOME NEW BUSHINGS ONTO THE END. THESE TWO NEW IBEAMS ARE ACTUALLY IDENTICAL TO EACH OTHER, EXCEPT FOR WHERE THE KINGPIN MOUNTS ON THE END, AND THEY'RE ATTACHED AT OPPOSING ANGLES. THIS IS ACTUALLY WHAT CONTROLS THE CASTOR IN YOUR STEERING SETUP. SO YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU CHOOSE PROPERLY. ON ALL VEHICLES YOU WANT TO HAVE THE TOP LEANING TOWARDS THE BACK. SO THAT MEANS THIS IS THE ARM FOR THE DRIVER'S SIDE.

(NARRATOR)>> STAY THERE, NO ONE LEAVES UNTIL THE SUSPENSION IS DONE.

(LT)>> WE'RE BACK TO WORK LOWERING OUR TWIN IBEAM F-100. THE BEAM ATTACHES WITH THE ORIGINAL PIVOT BOLT, AND WE'LL TEMPORARILY REMOVE THE COIL SPRING. THEN THE IBEAM IS SWUNG UP AND SLID INTO THE RADIUS ARM, AND A LONG BOLT CONNECTS THE TWO. WITH THE FIRST NUT TIGHT, THE LOWER SPRING CUP GOES BACK ON AND THE COIL SPRING CAN NOW GO IN. THE RETAINING CLIPS GO BACK INTO PLACE AND THEN THE SUSPENSION HARDWARE IS TIGHTENED BACK UP.

(JEREMY)>> THERE SHE GOES!

(LT)>> LASTLY THE HUB IS SLID ON AND THE KINGPIN IS DRIVEN BACK INTO PLACE. IT'S HELD WITH THE ORIGINAL TAPERED RETAINING BOLT, AND IT'S THE SAME PROCESS TO COMPLETE THE OTHER SIDE. WE'VE GOT THE SUSPENSION ALL DONE AND NOW THE TRUCK WILL BE ABLE TO SIT LOWER TO THE GROUND. SO NOW IT'S TIME TO WORK ON THESE SWAY BARS. WE GRABBED THEM FROM LMC TRUCK AND THEY COME WITH EVERYTHING THAT WE NEED TO COMPLETE THE INSTALLATION, AND THEY'LL ACTUALLY GO ON PRETTY EASILY. ALL WE'LL HAVE TO DO IS DRILL A COUPLE OF HOLES. SOMETHING LIKE THAT. FIRST OF ALL THESE RIVETS HAVE TO GO. SO I'LL SLICE THROUGH THEM WITH A CUTOFF WHEEL, GRIND THEM FLAT, THEN KNOCK THEM OUT WITH AN AIR CHISEL. THE URETHANE BUSHINGS GO ON AND THE MOUNT BOLTS THROUGH THE OLD RIVET HOLE, AND WE'LL HAVE TO DRILL ONE MORE HOLE FOR THE BACK. I'LL ROUGHLY MARK WHERE THE END LINK SITS ON THE IBEAM, AND GRIND AWAY THE POWDER COAT. THE TRUCK IS LOWERED AND SET ON SOME JACK STANDS AT ITS FINAL RIDE HEIGHT, AND THE LOWER MOUNT CAN BE TACKED IN. THEN FULLY WELDED WITH THE BUSHINGS OUT OF THE WAY. THEN THE END LINK GOES BACK IN AND WE'RE DONE. OUT BACK WE'LL HAVE TO CHOP OFF THE TAIL PIPES TO MAKE ROOM FOR THE SWAY BAR. LIKE A HOT KNIFE THROUGH BUTTER! AND WE'LL MODIFY THOSE LATER ON. THE END LINK BRACKETS MOUNT TO THE LOWER SHOCK TABS, AND THE BAR CAN BE RAISED UP ON SOME STANDS. THE END LINK BOLTS THROUGH THE BRACKET AND INTO THE SWAY BAR, AND THE BUSHING GOES ON ALONG WITH THE FRAME MOUNT. TWO THREEEIGHTHS INCH HOLES ARE DRILLED, AND WITH THE HARDWARE TIGHT, THE REAR SWAY BAR IS COMPLETE. SHE'S DONE! WE'VE COMPLETELY TRANSFORMED THE LOOKS AND FUNCTION OF OUR '74 F-100, AND IT REALLY WASN'T THAT HARD BECAUSE EVERYTHING THAT WE'VE BOLTED ON TODAY YOU CAN DO IN A TYPICAL TWO DAY WEEKEND.

(JEREMY)>> NOW IF YOU GUYS REMEMBER THIS IS A BUDGET BUILD. SO WHERE DO WE STAND AS FAR AS NUMBERS?

(LT)>> ALL RIGHT ON THE SUSPENSION PARTS TO GET THE TRUCK CLOSER TO THE GROUND WE SPENT $1,070 DOLLARS, AND ON THE SWAY BARS THAT'LL TIGHTEN UP THE HANDLING WE SPENT $370. SO ALL IN WE SPENT $1,440 DOLLARS.

(JEREMY)>> SO THAT MEANS WE'VE STILL GOT A LITTLE MONEY LEFT IN OUR BUDGET. SO WE'LL ADD SOME NEW RUBBER THAT MORE SUITS THE TRUCK, WE'LL REGEAR IT, AND WE'LL GET UNDER THE HOOD, SEE IF WE CAN PULL A LITTLE MORE POWER OUT OF THAT ENGINE AND PERSUADE THOSE NUMBERS A LITTLE BIT AT THE TRACK, BUT HOPEFULLY WE'LL GET BACK OUT THERE SOON.

(LT)>> WELL THERE'S A LOT OF STUFF TO DO BETWEEN NOW AND THEN. SO THAT'S ANOTHER DAY.

(JEREMY)>> HEY SHE LOOKS GOOD THOUGH.

ONE VERY POPULAR MODIFICATION TO ANY VEHICLE IS ADJUSTING RIDE HEIGHT. WHETHER YOU'VE GOT A FULL SIZE TRUCK YOU WANT TO LIFT WAY UP ON SOME 40'S, OR YOU'VE GOT A TRUCK LIKE THIS THAT'S BEEN LOWERED TO IMPROVE HANDLING. OR HEY, MAYBE YOU'VE GOT A DRAG TRUCK THAT YOU'VE STUFFED SOME HUGE SLICKS UNDER THE BACK OF IT. EITHER WAY, ALTERING SUSPENSION IS A GREAT WAY TO CUSTOMIZE A CAR OR TRUCK TO YOUR TASTE. NOW OFTEN TIMES THE FRONT OR REAR WILL BE LIFTED OR LOWERED DIFFERENT HEIGHTS DEPENDING ON WHAT YOU'RE DOING. LIKE THIS TRUCK HAS BEEN LOWERED THREE INCHES IN THE FRONT AND FIVE IN THE REAR. SO ONCE YOU'VE GOT YOUR SUSPENSION TAKEN CARE OF, YOU'VE GOT YOUR ALIGNMENT OUT OF THE WAY, YOU'RE GOOD TO GO RIGHT? WELL NOT SO FAST. THERE MAY BE ONE VERY IMPORTANT THING YOU'RE FORGETTING ABOUT, AND THAT'S THE HEADLIGHTS. NOW IN ORDER FOR HEADLIGHTS TO MEET DOT REQUIREMENTS THEY HAVE TO BE AIMED IN THE PROPER DIRECTION, BOTH SIDE TO SIDE AND UP AND DOWN. SO IF YOU'VE MODIFIED YOUR SUSPENSION THERE'S A GOOD CHANCE THE HEADLIGHTS AREN'T AIMED PROPERLY. THAT COULD BLIND ONCOMING DRIVERS IF THEY'RE AIMED TOO HIGH, BUT IF THEY'RE TOO LOW THAT CAN HURT YOUR VISIBILITY AT NIGHT. NOW HEADLIGHTS ARE SOMETHING YOU TYPICALLY THINK OF WHEN YOU'RE DOING SUSPENSION WORK BUT THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT FOR YOUR SAFETY. SO I'M GONNA SHOW YOU HOW QUICK AND EASY IT IS TO CHECK AND ADJUST YOUR HEADLIGHTS. FIRST WE'LL PULL THE TRUCK UP TO A WALL AND WE NEED TO MAKE SOME REFERENCE MARKS. WE WANT TO FIRST MAKE A HORIZONTAL MARK AT THE SAME HEIGHT AS CENTER OF EACH HEADLIGHT. OURS ARE NOW 26 INCHES FROM THE GROUND. SO WE'LL MAKE A TAPE LINE THAT HIGH OFF THE GROUND ON THE WALL. NEXT WE NEED TO MAKE A VERTICAL MARK AT THE CENTER OF EACH LIGHT. OURS ARE 62 INCHES APART. SO WE'LL MAKE A VERTICAL LINE ON THE WALL AT THE CENTER OF EACH HEADLIGHT. NEXT WE'LL BACK THE TRUCK UP PERFECTLY STRAIGHT SO THE LIGHTS ARE EXACTLY 25 FEET FROM THE WALL. SO WE'LL KILL THE SHOP LIGHTS AND SEE HOW OURS LINE UP. WHAT WE'RE SHOOTING FOR IS TO HAVE EACH BEAM POINTED AT THE TARGETS, BUT THE HOT SPOT SHOULD BE A COUPLE OF INCHES BELOW THE MARK. YEAH I'D SAY THEY'RE A LITTLE BIT OFF BUT WE EXPECTED THAT SINCE WE JUST DID A LITTLE ALTERING TO OUR SUSPENSION. YOU CAN SEE THE DRIVER'S LIGHT IS WAY TOO LOW. IT'S DEFINITELY GONNA HURT VISION AT NIGHT. THE PASSENGER'S SIDE IS NOT THAT BAD. IT'S JUST SET OVER TO THE RIGHT A LITTLE BIT. SO I'LL MAKE A FEW ADJUSTMENTS. NOW IN AN OLD TRUCK LIKE THIS AND MOST VEHICLES YOU HAVE TWO ADJUSTMENTS. YOU HAVE ONE UP TOP, AND THAT'S YOUR VERTICAL. WE'RE GONNA SCREW IT IN TO MAKE THE HEADLIGHT GO UP, AND OVER ON THE SIDE YOU HAVE YOUR SIDE TO SIDE ADJUSTMENT. WE'LL SCREW IT IN, MAKE IT MOVE TO THE LEFT, OR YOU CAN TURN IT OUT AND MAKE IT GO TO THE RIGHT. SO NOW YOU KNOW, THAT'S HOW EASY IT IS TO ADJUST YOUR HEADLIGHTS.
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