More In House Power Mouse Episodes

Engine Power Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

Doug's Headers
Headers, Tri-Y, Steel, Ceramic Coated, Chevy, GMC, Car, Pickup, 283-400, V8, Pair
E3 Spark Plugs
Spark Plug, E3, Tapered Seat, 14mm Thread, .440 in. Reach, Projected Tip, Resistor, Each
Holley
Carburetor, Street HP, 4150, 4-Barrel, 650 cfm, Double Pumper, Mechanical Secondary, Universal, Each
Mr. Gasket
Fuel Pump Electric
Pertronix
Distributor, Flame-Thrower, Magnetic Pickup, Vacuum Advance, Black Cap, Chevy, Big/Small Block, Each
Pertronix
Spark Plug Wires, Flame-Thrower, Spiral Core, 8mm, Black, 90 Degree Boots, GM, Small Block, V8, Set
Proform
Rocker Arms, Stud Mount, Full Roller, Aluminum, 1.6 Ratio, Fits 3/8 in. Stud, Chevy, Small Block, Set of 16
Quick Fuel Technology Inc.
Carburetor, Black Diamond Q-Series, 750 cfm, Mechanical Secondary, 4-Barrel, Square Bore, Drag Race, Each
Royal Purple
Coolant Additive, Treats 20 Quarts, 12 oz., Each
Summit Racing
Cam and Lifters, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 274/274, Lift .450/.450, Chevy, Small Block, Kit
Summit Racing
Cylinder Heads, Aluminum, Assembled, 62cc Chamber, 170cc Intake Runner, Chevy 1987-95, 5.7L, Pair
Summit Racing
Engine Block, Cast Iron, 4-Bolt Mains, 4.030 in. Bore, Clearanced, 1-Piece Rear Seal, Chevy, Small Block, Each
Summit Racing
Harmonic Balancer, SFI, Internal Balance, Steel, Clearcoated, Chevy, Small Block, Each
Summit Racing
Combo, Oil Pan, Black Zinc, Pickup, High-Volume Pump, Shaft, Tray, Scraper, Gaskets, Chevy, Small Block, Kit
Summit Racing
Summit Racing Chevy 350 engine kit Pro Pack, Engine Rebuild, Cast, Flat, 4.030 in. Bore, Std. Rod, Std. Main, Chevy, 350,Stage II connecting rods with ARP 2000 cap screws, high volume oil pump with stock pickup, double roller timing set, brass freeze plugs, sealants and rod bolt boots.
Summit Racing
Valve Covers, Stock Height, Centerbolt Mounting, Steel, Black Powdercoated, Chevy, 5.0L, 5.7L, Pair
Goodson Shop Supplies
Gas-Fired Rod Heater, Propane,Ceramic lined, enclosed heating area, One knob control, Includes regulator and hose assembly
The Industrial Depot
The Industrial Depot - Fasteners, Hardware, and Shop Supplies

Episode Transcript

(ANNOUNCER)>> YOU ASKED, WE LISTENED. WE'RE GOING BACK TO THE BASICS WITH A SMALL BLOCK

CHEVY BEING BUILT ON A BUDGET, AND VALUABLE TECH TIPS FOR TUNING A CARBURETOR.

(MIKE)>> WELCOME TO ENGINE POWER. WE'RE SUPER EXCITED ABOUT THIS 2016 SEASON. NOW WE RECEIVED A LOT OF EMAILS FROM YOU AWESOME VIEWERS ABOUT PROJECTS YOU'D LIKE SEE. NOW A LOT OF YOU GUYS WANT TO SEE MORE BUDGET BUILDS WHILE THE OTHER HALF WANTS TO SEE MORE BIG POWER BACK

ON THE ENGINE DYNO. WELL WE'RE HERE TO SATISFY BOTH SIDES AND WE'RE STARTING WITH THE BASICS.

(PAT)>> SMALL BLOCK CHEVYS WILL ALWAYS BE AROUND AS WELL AS SOMETHING TO PUT THEM INTO. IF YOU'RE WORKING ON A TIGHT BUDGET THERE'S NOTHING EASIER TO BUILD THAT WILL PRODUCE GOOD POWER. SO WITH YOUR INPUT WE'RE GONNA DO JUST THAT, BUT

WE'RE ALSO GONNA TAKE CARE OF THE GUYS THAT MIKE MENTIONED AND WE'RE GONNA DO THIS IN A THREE STAGE BUILD, AND WE'RE CALLING IT IN HOUSE POWER MOUSE.

(MIKE)>> STAGE ONE IS GOING TO BE SIMPLE. WE'RE USING ALL CATALOG PARTS FROM SUMMIT RACING AND EVERYTHING'S SET ON A PRETTY STRICT BUDGET, BUT THAT DOESN'T MEAN THE PARTS WON'T PERFORM. SUMMIT HAS PRO PACKS AND COMBOS, SOME OF THEM WE HELPED DESIGN, THAT MAKE IT EASIER FOR YOU AND HAVE REALLY GOOD PART SELECTION. IT DOESN'T GET ANY EASIER TO ORDER EITHER. WE CHOSE THIS PRO PACK ENGINE KIT THAT CONTAINS PRETTY MUCH EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO

COMPLETE A SHORT BLOCK. THIS PRO PACK OIL PUMP AND PAN KIT WAS NEXT ON OUR LIST, FOLLOWED BY THE CAM AND LIFTER KIT, AND THE CYLINDER HEADS ARE ORDERED AS A PAIR AND EVEN COME WITH ROCKER STUDS AND GUIDE PLATES. THE REST OF THE GOODIES WERE ORDERED INDIVIDUALLY WITH DOLLAR SAVINGS BEING PRIORITY.

(PAT)>> INSTEAD OF THE HASSLE OF FINDING A GOOD BLOCK AND HAVING IT MACHINED, WE OPTED FOR THIS SUMMIT RACING FULLY MACHINED IRON FOUR BOLT MAIN LATE MODEL BLOCK. IT'S BORED AND HONED 30 THOUSANDTHS OVER, ALIGN HONED, SQUARE DECKED, AND CAME WITH CAM BEARINGS, FREEZE PLUGS, AND OIL GALLERY PLUGS ALREADY INSTALLED. NOT BAD FOR UNDER $700 BUCKS. YOU'D AT LEAST SPEND THAT AT A MACHINE SHOP.

EVEN THOUGH IT'S NEW, IT STILL NEEDS TO BE WASHED.

FOREIGN MATTER AND RUST INHIBITORS ARE WHAT WE WANT TO REMOVE. THOSE ARE THE ITEMS THAT WILL EFFECT TOLERANCES AND ASSEMBLY. IF WE DIDN'T HAVE THE WASHER WE'D STILL CLEAN IT THOROUGHLY WITH HOT SOAPY WATER AND A SET OF BRUSHES. THE BLOCK IS SHIPPED IN READY TO ASSEMBLE FORM AND WE'RE GONNA PUT IT TOGETHER JUST LIKE YOU WOULD AT HOME WITHOUT ANY OF THE SPECIALIZED THINGS THAT WE HAVE, BUT THE GOOD NEWS IS WITH A PRO PACKS YOU DON'T NEED THEM. AND THAT PACK INCLUDED THIS SUMMIT RACING CAST STEEL CRANK SHAFT. IT HAS 350 JOURNALS, IT'S INTERNALLY BALANCED, AND UTILIZES A TWO PIECE REAR MAIN SEAL. NOW NORMALLY WE WOULD MEASURE THE JOURNALS WITH A MIC AND WE WOULD DIAL BORE GAUGE THE MAINS IN THE BLOCK, BUT I'M GONNA SHOW YOU HOW YOU CAN CHECK THE CLEARANCE YOURSELF AT HOME WITHOUT THEM, AND IT STARTS WITH THE MAIN BEARINGS. THEY ARE FROM CLEVITE AND THEY'RE ALSO INCLUDED IN THE KIT. THEY ARE A TRIMETAL DESIGN AND ARE PERFECT FOR OUR APPLICATION. FIRST LAY THE CRANK IN PLACE. NO OIL IS APPLIED BECAUSE WE'RE USING THIS. IT'S CALLED PLASTIGAUGE. HERE'S HOW IT'S USED TO DETERMINE OUR CLEARANCE. CUT A PIECE OF PLASTIGAUGE BETWEEN THE READING SCALE. OPEN UP THE PAPER AND CAREFULLY REMOVE THE THING GREEN WAX STRING INSIDE, AND LAY IT ON THE CRANK'S JOURNAL. GENTLY POSITION THE CAP, SEAT IT, AND TORQUE

IT TO FINAL SPEC. REMOVE THE CAP AND USE THE SCALE TO FIND YOUR TOLERANCE. OUR READING IS BETWEEN TWO AND THREE THOUSANDTHS. NOW THE CRANK COMES OUT. AND WITH THE CAP INSTALLED AND THE BORE GAUGE SET TO THE CRANK'S JOURNAL, WE'LL VERIFY THE PLASTIGAUGE'S ACCURACY. IT MEASURES 27 TEN THOUSANDTHS, AND THAT'S WITHIN A HALF THOUSANDTHS OF OUR RANGE. ALL YOU DO IS REPEAT THAT FOUR MORE TIMES AND YOU'RE GOOD TO GO. SO IS PLASTIGAUGE ACCURATE IF YOU DON'T HAVE A SET OF MICS? IT IS IN MY BOOK, AND THE IMPORTANT THING IS THAT YOU'RE CHECKING CLEARANCES TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU'RE IN THE RANGE YOU NEED TO BE SO YOU DON'T BURN ANYTHING UP, WASTING YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY YOU SPENT ON THIS NEW BULLET. SINCE OUR BLOCK IS A LATE MODEL VORTEC SETUP FOR A ONE PIECE REAR MAIN SEAL AND OUR CRANKSHAFT USES A TWO PIECE ONE, WE'RE GONNA USE THIS REAR MAIN SEAL ADAPTER WE GOT FROM SUMMIT RACING. WITH THE TOP PIECE ALIGNED AND FASTENED DOWN I CAN JUICE UP THE BEARINGS WITH HIGH VISCOSITY ASSEMBLY LUBE AND CAREFULLY DROP THE CRANK INTO PLACE. THE CAPS ALSO GET THE SAME TREATMENT. THEN THEY'RE SEATED WITH A DEAD BLOW HAMMER. THEN THEY ARE ALL TORQUED TO 70 POUND FEET ON THE INNER AND 65 POUND FEET ON THE OUTERS USING ENGINE OIL AS A LUBE. FINALLY THE OTHER HALF OF THE REAR MAIN SEAL ADAPTER GOES ON. THE THRUST CHECKS OUT AT FOUR THOUSANDTHS. IF YOU DON'T HAVE A DIAL INDICATOR MAKE SURE THE CRANK MOVES FORWARD AND AFT A LITTLE BIT. WE'RE CONTINUING ON AFTER THIS.

(PAT)>> WELCOME BACK TO THE STAGE ONE BUILD OF IN HOUSE POWER MOUSE, AND SO FAR IT'S GOING REALLY SMOOTH. WE HAVE THE CRANK IN FOR GOOD BUT WE STILL HAVE PLENTY OF PARTS FROM THE SUMMIT KIT TO PUT INTO THIS BUDGET BUILT SMALL BLOCK CHEVROLET. WE'LL ROTATE THE BLOCK TO THE UPRIGHT POSITION AND INSTALL THE CAM AT THIS TIME. IT'S A SUMMIT RACING SINGLE PATTERN HYDRAULIC FLAT TAPPET CAM THAT HAS 218 DEGREES AT 50 DURATION ON BOTH THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST. PLUS IT HAS 450 THOUSANDTHS OF VALVE LIFT AS WELL. THE LOBE SEPARATION IS A TIGHT 106 DEGREES. BE SURE TO USE THE INCLUDED CAM LUBE ON THE LOBES, WHICH HELPS ESTABLISH A WEAR PATTERN IN THE PARTS AND PREVENTS PREMATURE FAILURE. DO NOT USE OIL HERE.

WHEN TALKING CAM STUFF, SINGLE PATTERN MEANS THAT THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST DURATION DEGREES ARE THE SAME. A SPLIT DURATION MEANS THAT THEY ARE DIFFERENT. NEXT UP IS THE DOUBLE ROW TIMING CHAIN ASSEMBLY.

THE CRANK GEAR HAS MULTIPLE KEYWAYS TO DEGREE THE CAM IN WHERE YOU'D LIKE IT. A PIONEER ROLLER CAM BUTTON WILL KEEP THE CAM'S THRUST IN CHECK. IT'S NOT REQUIRED FOR A FLAT TAPPET CAM BUT THE ROLLER CAM IN STAGE TWO WILL NEED IT. SO WE'RE ALL SET UP FOR IT. THE BOLTS ARE TORQUED TO 28 POUND FEET.

(MIKE)>> IN ORDER TO DEGREE THE CAM WE HAVE TO ASSEMBLE THE PISTONS AND RODS USING A

HEATER LIKE THIS. NOW THE SMALL END GETS HEATED UP AND EXPANDS SO THE PIN CAN FIT THROUGH IT. AS IT CONTRACTS IT LOCKS THE PIN IN PLACE. THAT'S WHY THEY CALL IT A PRESS FIT. NOW IF YOU DO THIS AT HOME WITH A TORCH, YOU ACTUALLY OVERHEAT THE SMALL END CAUSING DISTORTION.

NOW THAT'LL CAUSE THE PIN TO WALK INSIDE OF THE ENGINE AND MAKE CONTACT WITH THE CYLINDER WALL CAUSING CATASTROPHIC FAILURE. SO YOU CAN MAKE A QUICK TRIP TO THE MACHINE SHOP

AND FOR LESS THAN $50 BUCKS HAVE IT DONE THE RIGHT WAY. HERE'S HOW WE DO IT. WE'RE USING OUR GOODSON ROD HEATER THAT

RUNS OFF PROPANE. WITH THE FLAME ADJUSTED WE'LL PLACE THE SMALL END OF THE ROD ON THE REST. LET IT HEAT UP FOR ABOUT 20 SECONDS. THEN FLIP THE ROD SO EVEN HEAT IS APPLIED. WHEN A HEAT LINE IS HALF WAY DOWN THE

SMALL END IT'S READY. NOW WITH A PISTON AND PIN WAITING IN THE FIXTURE, ALIGN THE SMALL END WITH THE PIN AND USE A PUSHER TO INSERT IT. HOLD IT FOR ABOUT FIVE SECONDS AND THAT'S IT. NOW YOU WANT FREE MOVEMENT JUST LIKE THIS.

(PAT)>> NOW WE'LL DROP THE NUMBER ONE ASSEMBLY IN TO FIND TDC. NO RINGS ARE NEEDED. DOWN LOW ON THE BIG END THE BEARINGS ARE IN BUT NOT FOR GOOD. WE HAVE TO CHECK THEIR CLEARANCES TOO. IN THIS CASE WE'RE GONNA PUT THE CAM IN AT 102

DEGREES OF INTAKE CENTERLINE.

THIS WILL PROMOTE MORE LOW END TORQUE SINCE OUR RPM RANGE IS LIMITED TO UNDER 6,000 RPM. WITH THAT DONE AND SOME LOCTITE SILICONE ON THE BLOCK, AN ALL STAR TIMING COVER FROM SUMMIT WILL SEAL UP THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE.

(MIKE)>> RING PACKS THAT COME WITH STOCK PISTON

SETS ARE NORMALLY PREGAPPED, BUT THEY STILL NEED TO BE CHECKED, ALL OF THEM. NOW WHAT WE'RE LOOKING FOR FOR THE TOP RING IS FOUR THOUSANDTHS GAP PER INCH OF BORE. SINCE WE'RE WORKING WITH A FOURZERO-30 BORE WE WANT AT LEAST 16 THOUSANDTHS HERE. NOW FOR THE SECOND RING WE WANT TO OPEN THAT UP JUST A HAIR MORE TO ABOUT 18 THOUSANDTHS. THE FIRST THING I'LL DO IS PLACE THE RING IN THE BORE, AND THEN USING A PISTON OR A SQUARING TOOL LIKE THIS, SQUARE THE RING UP. USING A 16 THOUSANDTHS FEELER GAUGE I'LL CHECK THE RING'S GAP. AS YOU CAN SEE IT'S A LITTLE LOOSE, WHICH ISN'T A BAD THING. BUT IF IT WAS TOO TIGHT, AS THE PISTON EXPANDS, THE RING GAP CLOSES AND BUTTS TOGETHER. WHEN THAT HAPPENS IT'LL LITERALLY RIP THE TOP OF THE PISTON RIGHT OFF. NOW WE HAVE RIGHT AT 21 THOUSANDTHS, WHICH IS FINE. NOW THERE WON'T BE ANY NEGATIVE EFFECT WITH THAT LITTLE BIT OF INCREASE. IT'S PRETTY COMMON IN FACTORY TYPE RINGS. THE BEST PART, FOR YOU GUYS WITHOUT A RING FILER, THIS WORKS OUT PERFECT. NOW I'M GONNA GO AHEAD AND INSTALL THE RINGS ON ALL THE PISTONS AND GET THEM IN THE BORES. WE'LL BE RIGHT BACK.

(PAT)>> ALL OUR RODS AND PISTONS ARE DROPPED IN AND OUR IN HOUSE POWER MOUSE BUILD CONTINUES WITH THIS SUMMIT RACING PRO PACK OIL PAN AND PUMP KIT. IT HAS A BUILT IN WINDAGE TRAY, A REAR SUMP, AND A TRAP DOOR FOR MORE OIL CONTROL. IT ALSO HAS A HIGH PERFORMANCE OIL PUMP WITH THE SHAFT AND A ONE PIECE OIL PAN GASKET. FIRST TO GO IN IS AN INCLUDED OIL PUMP STUD. NOW THE PUMP AND PICK UP GO INTO PLACE, AND WE'LL TORQUE THE NUT TO 50 POUND FEET. THE GASKET CAN BE PLACED ON THE PAN RAIL. AND FINALLY THE PAN, SECURING IT ARE GRADE EIGHT FASTENERS. A SUMMIT RACING STREET/STRIP BRACKET RACER

SFI BALANCER GOES ON NEXT, AND IT'S LOCKED DOWN WITH AN ARP CRANK BOLT. HERE'S A LITTLE BACKYARD TECH. WE DIDN'T HAVE THE CORRECT TIMING POINTER, SO WE MADE ONE WORK. BY FINDING TDC WITH A DIAL INDICATOR, WE MARKED THE POINTER AT ZERO, CUT IT WITH TIN SNIPS, BOLTED IT DOWN, AND BENT IT INTO POSITION.

(MIKE)>> THE FIRST ITEMS FOR THE TOP END ARE THESE ALUMINUM SUMMIT RACING CYLINDER HEADS. NOW THESE ARE A VORTEC STYLE WITH 170cc INTAKE RUNNER AND A 69cc EXHAUST RUNNER WITH A "D" SHAPED PORT.

NOW UNDERNEATH WE HAVE A 202 INTAKE VALVE AND A ONE-600 EXHAUST VALVE, AND THEY'RE BOTH SITTING IN A 62cc COMBUSTION CHAMBER.

NOW THESE HEADS FLOW RIGHT AT 242 CFM AT 500, AND

THE VALVE SPRINGS ARE SET UP FOR A HYDRAULIC FLAT TAPPET CAM WITH LESS THAN 500 INCH LIFT. THESE HEADS ARE MUCH BETTER THAN STOCK. GASKETS FROM THE PRO PACK WILL SEAL THEM TO THE DECK. THESE ARE QUALITY FEL PROS AND HAVE A 39 THOUSANDTHS COMPRESSED THICKNESS. WITH THE HEADS LOCATED ON THE DOWELS WE CAN DROP IN OUR LUBED HEAD BOLTS, AND TORQUE THEM DOWN

TO 70 POUND FEET.

NEXT UP ARE THE HYDRAULICALLY ACTUATED

LOBE FOLLOWING, PUSH ROD LIFTING, VALVE OPENING APPARATUSES, OR LIFTERS. NOW THEY'RE HYDRAULIC FLAT TAPPETS. HERE'S AN FYI, THE BOTTOM OF THE LIFTER IS NOT FLAT. IT'S ACTUALLY ROUNDED. NOW THAT COMBINED WITH THE LIFTER CENTER BEING SLIGHTLY OFFSET TO THE REAR ABOUT 20 THOUSANDTHS KEEPS THE CAM SHAFT PUSHED TO THE REAR OF THE BLOCK. NOW THAT'S WHY THE CAM BUTTON UP FRONT WAS NOT NECESSARILY NEEDED FOR THIS STAGE LIKE PAT MENTIONED EARLIER.

(PAT)>> STOCK LENGTH FIVESIXTEENTHS PUSH RODS ARE DROPPED THROUGH THE HEAD'S GUIDE PLATES AND REST ON THE LIFTERS. THESE ROLLER ROCKERS FIT THE BUDGET THEME.

THEY'RE ALUMINUM FULL ROLLERS WITH A ONE POINT SIX RATIO. THEY COME WITH POLY LOCKS FOR LESS THAN $160 BUCKS. THE SETTING FOR THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST LASH IS HALF TURN PAST ZERO. THIS WEIAND ACCELERATOR SINGLE PLANE INTAKE MANIFOLD WILL TOP OFF THE HEADS. ITS OPERATING RANGE IS FROM 1,500 TO 6,800 RPM.

(MIKE)>> THE REST WAS PUT ON IN HERE. SUPPLYING SPARK IS A PERTRONIX FLAME THROWER HEI WITH A MAGNETIC PICK UP AND MECHANICAL ADVANCE. IT PRODUCES 42 PERCENT MORE COIL ENERGY OVER STOCK HEI'S. SUPPLYING FUEL IS A HOLLEY 650 CFM HP, AND PERTRONIX EIGHT MILLIMETER FLAME THROWER WIRES MAKE THE CONNECTION BETWEEN THE HEI AND ETHREE SPARK PLUGS. INCH AND THREE QUARTER DOUG'S LONG TUBE HEADERS ARE OUR CHOICE FOR THIS DYNO SESSION. WE'RE STARTING WITH 30 DEGREES OF TOTAL TIMING AND USING 93 OCTANE IN THE FUEL CELL.

THIS ENGINE HAS A 10.25 TO ONE COMPRESSION RATIO. ALRIGHT, THE FIRST PULLS IS GONNA BE FROM 2,500 TO 4,800 JUST TO SEE HOW SHE ACTS.

JUST KIDDING! WE HAVE TO TAKE A QUICK BREAK BUT WHEN WE COME BACK WE'RE DOING OUR FULL DYNO SESSION AND YOU'LL SEE THE RESULTS.

(ANNOUNCER)>> PLUS HOW THE PROS TUNE A CAR.

(MIKE)>> SORRY TO MAKE YOU WAIT.

HERE'S THAT 2,500 TO 4,800 RPM PULL. [ ENGINE REVVING ]

(PAT)>> NICE!

(MIKE)>> A SEWING MACHINE, SMOOTH AS SILK.

338 ON POWER, 388 POUND FEET, FLAT, FLAT TORQUE CURVE, STILL MAKING GOOD POWER AND CLIMBING. LET'S LOOK AT NUMERICALS.

WOW, 377 POUND FEET FROM 4,100 TO 4,300 AND AT

4,800 IT'S ONLY DUMPING DOWN AT 370.

(PAT)>> GOTTA TURN IT HIGHER.

(MIKE)>> YOU WANT IT HIGHER, 6,000?

(PAT)>> SURE! [ ENGINE REVVING ]

(MIKE)>> 345, 377 ON TORQUE. LET'S SEE, PEAK POWER, 5,100, PEAK TORQUE, IT

HELD 377 POUND FEET FROM 4,000 TO 4,300.

(PAT)>> THAT IS NOT TOO SHABBY FOR A LITTLE 355

INCH DEAL WITH A FLAT TAPPET IN IT. WELL WE'VE GOT TO STAB SOME TIMING ON IT.

(MIKE)>> THAT INTAKE NEEDS A LITTLE PLENUM VOLUME.

(PAT)>> IT ABSOLUTELY DOES, AND I HATE CHANGING TWO THINGS AT ONCE BUT.

(MIKE)>> TIMING AND SPACER?

(PAT)>> I THINK WE'LL DO TIMING AND SPACER.

(MIKE)>> ALRIGHT, ONE INCH SPACER, 36 DEGREES OF TIMING, SAME RPM.

(PAT)>> EXCELLENT!

(MIKE)>> HERE WE GO!

(PAT)>> KEEP IN MIND, THESE TBI ENGINES TYPICALLY MADE AROUND 200 HORSEPOWER FROM THE FACTORY.

(MIKE)>> NOT BAD, NOT BAD, 357 ON POWER, 389 ON TORQUE.

(PAT)>> THAT IS EXCELLENT AND EXCELLENT FOR CHEAP. THIS THING'S GOT GREAT VACUUM.

THIS IS A 100,000 MILE ENGINE THAT YOU CAN PUT IT IN AN MANUAL, AUTOMATIC, IT WOULDN'T MATTER.

THIS THING WILL RUN LIKE A SEWING MACHINE FOREVER.

(MIKE)>> PEAK POWER, 357 AT 5,100, TORQUE WAS 389 AT 4,300 AND 4,400.

(PAT)>> SWEET!

(MIKE)>> THAT'S A WINNER FOR THE MONEY.

(PAT)>> NICE JOB! WELL YOU ASKED FOR IT AND YOU GOT IT. THIS IS STAGE ONE OF THREE AND IT WAS BUILT ON THE CHEAP.

THE NEXT ONE IS GONNA GET BETTER INTERNALS, MORE CUBIC INCHES, AND A TOP END KIT THAT'S GONNA CRANK OUT SOME BIG NUMBERS. AND STAGE THREE WILL EVEN BE MORE SPICY WITH AN AFTERMARKET BLOCK AND A BIG POWER ADDER, AND

THAT'S ALL WE'RE GONNA TELL YOU FOR NOW. TRICK FLOW SPECIALTIES IS SURE TO PUT A SMILE ON ALL YOU BIG BLOCK MOPAR OWNERS WITH THEIR NEW CNC'ED POWER PORT 240 ALUMINUM CYLINDER HEAD. IT FEATURES A 240cc INTAKE RUNNER AND A 76cc EXHAUST RUNNER, AND IT ALSO HAS A HEART SHAPED 78cc COMBUSTION CHAMBER. THE VALVES MEASURE IN AT TWOONE-90 ON THE INTAKE AND ONESEVEN-60 ON THE HOT SIDE, AND THEY'RE COMPATIBLE WITH ALL PISTONS, ROCKER ARMS, INTAKE MANIFOLDS, AND HEADERS. AND THE PRICE FOR A COMPLETE SET IS ONLY ABOUT $2,000.

(MIKE)>> IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR A RADIATOR CONDITIONER DUE TO HIGH OPERATING TEMPS OR EVEN LOOKING FOR A DEFENSE AGAINST CORROSION IN YOUR COOLING SYSTEM, ROYAL PURPLE'S PURPLE ICE WILL HELP YOU OUT. NOW THIS STUFF REDUCES THE SURFACE TENSION OF THE

COOLANT, ALLOWING MORE HEAT TO TRANSFER OUT SIDE TO THE RADIATOR, ALLOWING YOUR ENGINE TO RUN COOLER. NOW WHEN THE DIRECTIONS ARE FOLLOWED, THIS STUFF WILL ACTUALLY LOWER THE COOLANT TEMPS UP TO 22 DEGREES. NOW YOU CAN FIND IT AT ANY OF YOUR LOCAL AUTO PART STORES.

(PAT)>> WHETHER YOU RUN RACE GAS, ETHANOL, OR METHANOL, MISTER GASKET'S GRAVITY FEED MICRO ELECTRIC PUMP WILL WORK FOR YOU. IT FEATURES STATE OF THE ART ELECTRONICS AND HAS NO DIAPHRAGMS OR MECHANICAL PARTS TO WEAR OUT. IT'S INTERNALLY REGULATED BETWEEN FOUR AND SEVEN PSI, AND DELIVERS 35 GALLONS PER HOUR OF FLOW WITH A SIMPLE TWO WIRE 12 VOLT HOOK UP. AND IT COMES WITH MOUNTING HARDWARE, A 100 MICRON FILTER, AND EASY TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS ALL FOR AROUND $50 BUCKS.

(MIKE)>> YOU GUYS ASKED THIS QUESTION A LOT THROUGH EMAILS AND TODAY WE'RE GONNA ANSWER IT. IT TAKES A LOT TO GET AN ENGINE UP AND RUNNING ON THE DYNO. THERE'S A LOT OF FACTORS INVOLVED. ONE OF THEM IS GETTING THE CARBURETOR SET UP AND TUNED IN SO THE ENGINE RUNS SMOOTH AND WE'RE IN A SAFE AIR/FUEL RATIO RANGE. WELL TODAY WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU HOW WE DO IT. AND THIS GOES FOR A CARBURETOR THAT'S BRAND NEW OUT OF THE BOX OR MAYBE SOMETHING YOU'RE HAVING A LITTLE BIT OF AN ISSUE WITH.

(PAT)>> WITH ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION FLOODING THE AUTOMOTIVE MARKET, SOME MAY THINK THAT CARBURETORS ARE A THING OF THE PAST. WELL I CHALLENGE YOU TO GO TO YOUR LOCAL DRAG STRIP OR CAR SHOW AND COUNT HOW MANY CARBS THAT YOU SEE. WHETHER IT'S A NITROUS CAR, A NATURALLY ASPIRATED DOOR SLAMMER, OR JUST A NICE HOT ROD, I BET YOU'RE STILL GONNA SEE PLENTY OF CARBS.

(MIKE)>> THE CULPRIT FOR TODAY'S TECH IS THIS 750 CFM QUICK FUEL BLACK DIAMOND CARBURETOR. NOW THIS THING HAS MECHANICAL SECONDARIES, NO CHOKE, AND NO CHOKE HORN, MAKING THIS A HIGH PERFORMANCE DRAG RACE OR OVAL TRACK SETUP. IT'S SAFE TO SAY NO MATTER THE APPLICATION, THE CARB WILL REQUIRE SOME ADJUSTMENT OUT OF THE BOX. FOR THE MOST PART THEY'LL BE MINOR ONES. THIS ENGINE IS A MILD BUILT 350

SMALL BLOCK CHEVROLET. SO I'M SURE A LOT OF YOU CAN RELATE TO IT.

(PAT)>> OUR STARTING POINT IS SETTING THE ENGINE'S CURB IDLE SPEED, AND THAT'S DETERMINED BY THE PART SELECTION AND THE ENGINE'S PURPOSE. THIS CAM HAS A HYDRAULIC FLAT TAPPED WITH A DURATION OF 218 DEGREES AT 50. SO OUR TARGET IS GONNA BE 750 RPM.

(MIKE)>> HITTING THAT TARGET IS DONE BY ADJUSTING THE THROTTLE BLADES USING THE ADJUSTMENT SCREW OR SCREWS. NOW SOME CARBS HAVE ONE FOR THE FRONT BLADES AND

ONE FOR THE REAR. WITH THE ENGINE NOT RUNNING, WE'LL COMPLETELY CLOSE THE THROTTLE BLADES. THEN SLIGHTLY OPEN THEM ABOUT A QUARTER TURN.

(PAT)>> THEN START THE ENGINE AND LET IT REACH OPERATING TEMPERATURE. BY TURNING IT CLOCKWISE, IT OPENS THE BLADES, WHICH DECREASES THE IDLE SPEED. COUNTERCLOCKWISE CLOSES THEM, DECREASING IDLE SPEED. OUR TARGET IS SET. THE IDLE MIXTURE IS NEXT. THIS CARB HAS A FOUR CORNER IDLE MIXTURE SETUP. WE LIKE TO RUN EACH SCREW IN UNTIL IT GENTLY BOTTOMS OUT. THEN BACK EACH ONE OFF ONE TURN AS A STARTING POINT. HOOK UP A VACUUM GAUGE TO A MANIFOLD VACUUM PORT, AND ADJUST THE SCREWS EVENLY TO ACHIEVE THE HIGHEST VACUUM READING. THE IDLE SPEED WILL INCREASE WHEN THIS HAPPENS.

SO A SLIGHT IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT CAN BE DONE WHILE THIS IS GOING ON. KEEP REPEATING THIS PROCESS UNTIL YOUR MIXTURE

SCREWS ARE EVEN AND YOUR VACUUM IS AT ITS HIGHEST. THEN YOU CAN BACK YOUR IDLE SPEED DOWN BY TURNING THE MAIN IDLE SCREW FOR THE LAST TIME. USING THESE FEW SIMPLE TOOLS GETS YOU TO A GOOD POINT FOR THE REST OF YOUR TUNING, AND THAT MEANS DRIVING IT IF IT'S YOUR STREET CAR OR MAKING PASSES WITH IT IF IT'S YOUR RACE CAR, AND THAT MEANS CHANGING JETS AND AIR BLEEDS, AND WE'LL GET TO THAT ANOTHER TIME.

(MIKE)>> WE HOPE YOU LEARNED SOMETHING OR MAYBE GOT A LITTLE INSPIRATION TO GET OUT IN YOUR GARAGE AND TRY THE SAME TYPE OF BUILD. NOW STAGE TWO IS GONNA BE PACKED FULL OF POWER. SO MAKE SURE YOU KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR IT. WE'LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME.
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