Detroit Muscle Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

Classic Industries
1981-87 Buick Grand National Turbo V6 Steel Hood - Reproduction steel hood for 1981-87 Buick models equipped with the turbo V6 engine. Manufactured to factory specifications featuring original style contours, and a full steel understructure.
Lincoln Electric
Lincoln Electric is the official welding supplier to Detroit Muscle
Matco Tools
Matco is the Official Tool Supplier to Detroit Muscle
Pertronix
PerTronix Contour Starters
PowerTrain Products
GM 3.6L Crate Engine
Scott Rod Fabrications
Fox Steel Contoured Inner Skirts
Summit Racing
Stifflers Suspension Driveshaft Safety Loops
Summit Racing
Stifflers Suspension Mustang FIT Systems
Summit Racing
Stifflers Suspension Transmission Crossmembers
Trick Flow Specialties
Trick Flow® by Stainless Works Headers

Episode Transcript

(NARRATOR)>> TODAY ON DETROIT MUSCLE "PROJECT SYDEWINDER" GETS SOME MAJOR CHASSIS STIFFENING, ALONG WITH A PARADE OF OTHER GOODIES.

(MARC)>> HEY FOLKS, WELCOME TO DETROIT MUSCLE. TODAY WE'RE GONNA BE WORKING ON "PROJECT SYDEWINDER", OUR 1981 MUSTANG COBRA PROJECT. YOU'LL PROBABLY NOTICE I PUT A SET OF WHEELS AND TIRES ON HERE. THAT'S BECAUSE WE SWITCH FROM FOUR LUG TO FIVE LUG, AND I JUST FOUND THESE OUT IN THE WAREHOUSE, BUT WE'RE NOT GONNA LEAVE THEM ON HERE. WE'RE JUST GONNA USE THEM FOR NOW SO WE CAN MOVE THIS THING AROUND THE SHOP. LAST TIME WE BOLTED OUR ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION TOGETHER AND GOT THEM DROPPED IN THE HOLE. NOW THIS ENGINE MAKES OVER 600 HORSEPOWER. YOU COUPLE THAT WITH THE FACT THAT THIS THING IS A UNIBODY CAR, WELL THAT MEANS YOU'RE GONNA HAVE A LITTLE BIT OF TWISTING GOING ON BECAUSE A UNIBODY CAR ISN'T AS STRUCTURALLY STIFF AS A CAR WITH THE BODY BOLTED TO A FULL FRAME. AND TO ADD INSULT TO INJURY, WE DECIDED WE WERE GONNA BUY A TTOP CAR. DO I REGRET IT? NOT ONE BIT, BUT TTOP CARS AND CONVERTIBLE CARS ARE THE SAME IN THAT THEY'RE LESS RIGID THAN A FULL COUPE WOULD BE, BUT WE'VE GOT A SOLUTION FOR THAT. SO WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO IS UTILIZE A BUNCH OF THIS STUFF WE'VE GOT ON THE TABLE HERE THAT WE GOT FROM STIFFLERS. NOW AS THEIR NAME SUGGESTS, THEIR MAIN OBJECTIVE IS TO STIFFEN YOUR CHASSIS. A LOT OF YOU GUYS MAY RECOGNIZE THIS PIECE RIGHT HERE. THIS IS JUST YOUR REGULAR SUBFRAME CONNECTOR. NOW THIS IS THE CENTER PIECE OF ALL OF THIS CHASSIS STIFFENING STUFF. THIS IS THE PIECE THAT CONNECTS THE FRONT AND REAR SUBFRAMES TOGETHER. IT'S ALSO GOT A BRACE HERE THAT BOLTS TO THE SEAT BRACE, BUT IT'S MORE THAN THAT. STIFFLERS HAS GOT THIS STIFFENING RAIL HERE, WHICH IS GONNA GO INSIDE THE PINCH WELD ALONG THE FLOOR JUST UNDERNEATH THE ROCKER PANEL. THAT'S GONNA STIFFEN THAT FLOOR PAN ALL THE WAY FROM THE FRONT TO THE BACK AS WELL AS THAT PINCH WELD, BUT WE'RE GONNA GO EVEN FURTHER THAN THAT. WE'RE GONNA CONNECT THE TWO WITH THIS PIECE CALLED A WEB BRACE. NOW YOU PUT ALL OF THAT STUFF TOGETHER AND THAT'S WHAT STIFFLERS CALLS THEIR FIT SYSTEM. IT'S THE SUBFRAME CONNECTOR, THE STIFFEN RAIL, AND THE WEB BRACE. NOW YOU CAN SEE THIS HAS GOT SOME TABS ON IT HERE, AND THAT'S WHERE THESE ARE GONNA ATTACH. THIS SIDE DOESN'T HAVE POWDER COAT ON IT BECAUSE WE'RE GONNA DO SOME WELDING, AND IT'S EVEN SLIP FIT. THEY'VE ALSO GOT SOME OTHER STUFF WE'RE GONNA UTILIZE, LIKE THIS LOWER CHASSIS BRACE, SPIDER BRACE, AND A DRIVESHAFT SAFETY LOOP, BUT WE'LL TALK ABOUT THAT A LITTLE MORE IN DEPTH WHEN WE GO TO INSTALL THEM. FIRST THING WE NEED TO DO IS GET THAT THING OUT OF HERE AND ONTO A FOUR POST LIFT. WELL WE'VE GOT OUR MUSTANG OUT HERE ON THE FOUR POST LIFT BECAUSE TO INSTALL ALL OF THIS CHASSIS STIFFENING STUFF WE WANT THE WEIGHT OF THE CAR ON THE SUSPENSION. THAT WAY THE CHASSIS IS NICE AND STRAIGHT THE WAY IT'S GONNA BE ONCE WE GET TO DRIVING IT. NOW FIRST THING WE'RE GONNA INSTALL IS GONNA BE THIS DRIVESHAFT LOOP HERE, WHICH INSTALLS HERE AND ATTACHES TO THE TRANSMISSION MOUNT. NOW YOU NOTICE THE MOUNTS ATTACH TO THIS NEW CROSS MEMBER, WHICH WE ALSO GOT FROM STIFFLERS. WE NEED TO USE A POLE JACK TO PUT SOME PRESSURE ON THE TRANSMISSION. THEN WE CAN TAKE THE TWO BOLTS OUT THAT HOLD THE TRANS MOUNT TO THE TAIL SHAFT HOUSING. THEN WE'LL JACK THE TRANS UP TO MAKE SOME ROOM, AND SLIDE IN THE DRIVESHAFT LOOP.

REINSTALL THE BOLTS...

...LOWER THE TRANSMISSION BACK DOWN, AND TIGHTEN THEM UP. [ drill spinning ]

(MARC)>> WE CAN TAKE OUR POLE JACK OUT AND MOVE ON TO THE NEXT THING. TRANSMISSION IS TIGHT! NOW ONE OF THE THINGS I WANT TO DO BEFORE I START INSTALLING SUBFRAME CONNECTORS AND THE STIFFEN RAILS IS RIGHT HERE ON THE PINCH WELDS THERE'S SOME BENDS HERE WHERE SOMEBODY JACKED THE CAR UP THE WRONG WAY OVER THE YEARS. SO I NEED TO GET THIS DRIVEN OUT, AT LEAST STRAIGHT. THAT WAY WE CAN GET THOSE STIFFENING RAILS IN THERE.

WE'RE JUST USING A HAMMER AND A LADY FINGER PRY BAR TO WHACK THOSE PINCH WELDS BACK INTO SHAPE. ALL RIGHT, WE PUT SOME LONGER BOLTS THROUGH THE BACK OF THE SEAT MOUNTS HERE, AND WE NEED THOSE LONGER STUDS STICKING THROUGH THERE BECAUSE THOSE ARE GONNA GO THROUGH THESE SLOTS HERE ON THE SUBFRAME CONNECTOR. SO I'M JUST GONNA SLIDE IT INTO PLACE FOR NOW AND INSTALL IT WITH THESE NUTS, LONG ENOUGH FOR US TO MARK WHERE WE NEED TO GRIND THE PAINT OFF.

WE'LL USE A PERMANENT MARKER TO INDICATE WHERE THE GRINDING NEEDS TO BE DONE.

THEN WE CAN REMOVE THE CONNECTOR, GRAB OUR GRINDER, AND START THROWING SPARKS. [ grinding metal ]

(MARC)>> WE'LL BRING OUR CONNECTOR BACK IN, REINSTALL THE NUTS, AND PEEL OFF THIS PROTECTIVE PLASTIC TO REVEAL BARE METAL. NOW IF YOU NOTICE HERE, WHEN WE PEELED THAT PLASTIC OFF THEY'D ACTUALLY INSTALLED THAT BEFORE THEY POWDER COATED THESE AT THE FACTORY. THAT WAY ONCE WE PEELED THEM OFF IT'S JUST BARE METAL UNDERNEATH. SO WE CAN WELD TO THAT, AND THEN ALSO TO THE PART THAT WE GROUND THE PAINT OFF HERE ON THE CAR. SO THE WHOLE IDEA HERE IS THAT WE'RE CONNECTING THIS FRONT SUBFRAME RAIL TO THIS REAR SUBFRAME RAIL WITH THIS RAIL RIGHT HERE. WE JUST NEED TO GET THEM WELDED IN. WE WANT TO MAKE SURE WE GET PLENTY OF HEAT PENETRATION INTO BOTH THE CONNECTOR AND THE FRAME RAIL. THESE WELDS ARE GROUND ZERO FOR KEEPING THE CHASSIS FROM DOING ANY FLEXING. [ welder cracking ]

(MARC)>> WE'RE USING OUR LINCOLN POWER MIG 210 MP TO GET THIS JOB DONE, AND THEIR MINI FLEX WELDING FUME EXTRACTOR WILL GET RID OF THE VAPORS. [ welder crackling ]

(NARRATOR)>> LATER ON, HEADER TROUBLE SHOOTING, AND HOW TO MEASURE FOR A DRIVESHAFT.

(MARC)>> HEY FOLKS, WELCOME BACK. WELL I'VE BEEN BUSY WELDING UP THE SUBFRAME CONNECTORS ON OUR '81 COBRA PROJECT, BUT THAT'S NOT THE ONLY THING THAT WE'VE GOT GOING ON IN THE SHOP TODAY. AS A MATER OF FACT, TOMMY'S BEEN BUSY WORKING ON OUR '69 DODGE CHARGER, WHICH WE'RE TRYING TO GET READY FOR PAINT REAL SOON. NOW IF REMEMBER, NOT TOO LONG AGO, WE DID A BUNCH OF BODY WORK ON IT. WE HAD SOME FRIENDS IN HERE HELPING US OUT. NOW I'D FEEL PRETTY COMFORTABLE DOING THE ROUGHING IN THE BODY WORK, BUT WHEN IT COMES TIME TO GETTING FINE TUNED AND READY FOR PAINT, WELL THAT'S MORE OF A JOB FOR TOMMY. LET'S SEE WHAT HE'S GOT GOING ON. TOMBO!

(TOMMY)>> YES SIR!

(MARC)>> WHY YOU DIRTY?

(TOMMY)>> I GUESS YOU COULD SAY I LOST A BET.

(MARC)>> I GUESS THAT MEANS I WON IT.

(TOMMY)>> YEAH, PRETTY MUCH. YOU KNOW THIS OLE CAR AIN'T GONNA BLOCK ITSELF. SO I'VE GOT PLENTY TO DO.

(MARC)>> ALL RIGHT, SO THIS'LL TAKE YOU WHAT, ANOTHER COUPLE OF HOURS? WE'LL BE READY TO CLEAR IT?

(TOMMY)>> I MEAN WE'RE PROBABLY READY TO BUFF BY THE END OF THE DAY. SO, YOU KNOW, PREPARE YOURSELF.

(MARC)>> ALL RIGHT, I'LL BE READY.

(TOMMY)>> ALL RIGHT BROTHER.

(MARC)>> I'M GONNA GO WELD ON THE MUSTANG. WELL YOU NOTICE WE'RE BACK IN THE SHOP, AND WE'VE GOT OUR MUSTANG UP ON THE TWO POST LIFT CAUSE IT'S GONNA BE A LOT EASIER TO WORK ON UNDERNEATH HERE. WE'VE ALREADY GOT THOSE SUBFRAME CONNECTORS WELDED IN REAL SOLID. SO WHAT WE DID TO MAKE SURE THERE WAS AS MUCH WEIGHT AS POSSIBLE ON THE SUSPENSION IS WE PUT A POLE JACK AT EACH CORNER. WE COMPRESSED IT AS MUCH AS WE COULD WITHOUT LIFTING THE CAR OFF OF THE ARMS OF THE FOUR POST. THEN JUST LOWERED IT ABOUT A HALF A TURN.

WELL NEXT UP ARE OUR STIFFENING RAILS. I'VE GOT THIS ONE ALREADY READY TO GO. NOW THIS IS GONNA HAVE TO GO ALL THE WAY UP AGAINST THE FLOOR, AND THEN ALL THE WAY OUT AGAINST THE PINCH WELDS. I'VE ALREADY GROUND WHERE WE'RE GONNA WELD TO THE PINCH WELDS. SO WE DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT THAT. JUST GET IT UP IN HERE, AND CLAMP IT IN, AND DO SOME WELDING.

WE'RE GONNA USE A POLE JACK TO HELP PLACE THE RAIL AGAINST THE FLOOR TO GET IT AS HIGH AND TIGHT AS POSSIBLE. THEN WE'LL JUST CLAMP IT IN WITH THE LOCKING PLIERS. TIME TO BURN SOME WIRE. [ welder crackling ]

(MARC)>> WE'LL PLACE A FEW TACKS TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING STAYS PUT. THEN REMOVE THE CLAMPS.

A LITTLE BIT OF STRAIGHTENING ON THE LIP WITH A HAMMER AND WE CAN START BURNING IT IN. [ welder crackling ]

(MARC)>> NEXT ARE THE WEB BRACES. WE'LL TACK THIS ONE IN JUST LIKE THE RAIL, AND SOME OF THEM REQUIRE A LITTLE PERSUASION WITH A POLE JACK. [ welder crackling ]

(MARC)>> THEN WE CAN BURN THEM IN. [ welder crackling ]

(MARC)>> WE'LL REPEAT THAT PROCEDURE ON THE NEXT BRACE, WHICH GOES FURTHER TOWARDS THE FRONT. [ welder crackling ]

(MARC)>> WELL WE'VE GOT ALL OF OUR CHASSIS STIFFENING STUFF ALL WELDED IN COMPLETELY. NOW WE CAN GET THESE POLE JACKS OUT OF THE WAY AND HIT THOSE WELDS WITH A COAT OF BLACK PAINT. WE'LL BE GOOD TO GO. THE ONLY THING WE DIDN'T INSTALL WOULD BE THAT LOWER CHASSIS BRACE WITH THE SPIDER BRACES, BUT WE'RE GONNA NEED TO GET THE LONG TUBE HEADERS IN FIRST BEFORE WE CAN INSTALL THOSE BECAUSE THERE MAY BE A CLEARANCE ISSUE.

(MARC)>> RECENTLY WE TALKED ABOUT DIFFERENT TYPES OF BOLTS AND THEIR UNIQUE APPLICATIONS IN THE AUTOMOTIVE WORLD. I BRIEFLY TOUCHED ON BOLT GRADES, AND WE DIDN'T REALLY GO INTO MUCH DETAIL BECAUSE WE'RE GONNA DO THAT TODAY. NOW THERE'S OTHER WAYS TO IDENTIFY A BOLT, MAINLY THE SIZE, MEANING THE LENGTH AND THE DIAMETER, BUT ALSO THE THREAD PITCH, AND WE'RE GONNA LEARN HOW TO DO THAT AS WELL TODAY. THE FIRST THING WE'RE GONNA TALK ABOUT IS GRADE. THESE TWO BOLTS HERE ARE EITHER GRADE ONE OR TWO, AND YOU CAN TELL BECAUSE THERE'S NOT ANY MARKS ON HERE THAT INDICATE THAT THEY'RE ANY STRONGER. NOW THESE BOLTS WILL HANDLE ABOUT 60,000 TO 74,000 PSI. THESE THREE BOLTS ARE GRADE FIVE, AND YOU CAN TELL BECAUSE IT HAS THREE MARKS HERE. NOW THIS IS PRETTY TYPICAL FOR AUTOMOTIVE APPLICATIONS, AND TYPICALLY YOU DON'T NEED TO GO TO ANYTHING THAT'S WEAKER THAN THIS. GRADE FIVE IS A GOOD GO TO. THOSE GRADE FIVE BOLTS HAVE A TENSILE STRENGTH OF ABOUT 120,000 PSI, WHICH WILL HANDLE MOST THINGS ON A VEHICLE. IF YOU NEED SOMETHING STRONGER THAN THAT THE NEXT STEP WOULD BE A GRADE EIGHT. THE WAY YOU CAN TELL IT'S A GRADE EIGHT BOLT IS BY THE SIX MARKS HERE ON THE HEAD. NOW I KNOW IT'S GETTING KIND OF CONFUSING BECAUSE A GRADE FIVE BOLT HAS THREE MARKS AND THE GRADE EIGHT HAS SIX, BUT THAT'S JUST THE WAY THEY GRADE THEM. NOW IT REALLY DOESN'T MATTER THE OTHER MARKINGS THAT ARE ON THE HEAD OF THE BOLT, LIKE IF IT'S A SHAPE LIKE A TRIANGLE, OR DIFFERENT LETTERS. THAT JUST SIGNIFIES THE MANUFACTURER. NOW A GRADE EIGHT BOLT HAS A TENSILE STRENGTH OF ABOUT 150,000 PSI. NOW A NEAT LITTLE PIECE OF INFORMATION IS THAT THESE STAINLESS BOLTS HERE, THEY HAVE ABOUT THE SAME TENSILE STRENGTH AS A GRADE EIGHT BOLT. A LOT OF PEOPLE THINK THEY'RE STRONGER, BUT THEY'RE ACTUALLY NOT, BUT THEY DO RESIST RUST A LOT BETTER. NOW THIS LITTLE BABY RIGHT HERE IS NOT VERY COMMON. THIS IS A GRADE NINE BOLT. IT HAS A TENSILE STRENGTH OF 180,000 PSI. SO IT'S STRONGER THAN GRADE EIGHT, BUT WHAT'S COOL ABOUT IT IS IT ACTUALLY HAS NINE MARKS ON IT. SO YOU CAN'T MISTAKE IT FOR ANYTHING ELSE. NOW METRIC BOLTS ARE A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT ANIMAL. THEY'RE GRADED BY A CLASS. NOW THIS HERE IS A CLASS EIGHT POINT EIGHT, AND THESE ARE TEN POINT NINE. NOW A CLASS EIGHT POINT EIGHT IS VERY SIMILAR TO A GRADE FIVE, AND THE 10.9 IS PRETTY SIMILAR TO A GRADE EIGHT. NOW TO MEASURE A BOLT WE'RE GONNA USE THIS BOLT SIZING GAUGE HERE. JUST GONNA GRAB A BOLT HERE, CHECK IT OUT. THESE ARE STANDARD. WE CAN TELL BY THE MARKING, AND THIS IS ACTUALLY A ONE HALF, AND WE NEED TO MEASURE THE THREAD PITCH. THIS IS A 13, MEANS IT'S 13 THREADS PER INCH. NOW WHEN YOU MEASURE THE LENGTH YOU MAKE SURE YOU START AT THE BOTTOM OF THE HEAD TO THE TIP, AND THIS ONE'S ACTUALLY THREE INCHES LONG. NOW THERE'S ANOTHER COOL TOOL HERE TO MEASURE THREAD PITCH. THIS GUY RIGHT HERE, YOU CAN SEE, IT FITS RIGHT IN THERE. THIS THING FOLDS UP, GOES IN YOUR POCKET.

(NARRATOR)>> COMING UP, HOW TO GET BIG HEADERS INTO A TINY CAR.

(MARC)>> HEY FOLKS, WELCOME BACK. WE'RE BUSY WORKING ON OUR '81 COBRA PROJECT THAT WE'RE CALLING "SYDEWINDER". NOW EARLIER WE WERE UNDERNEATH WORKING ON THE CHASSIS, BUT NOW I LOWERED IT DOWN AND I'M WORKING HERE IN THE ENGINE BAY. BEFORE I START THROWING THINGS IN HERE LIKE THE RADIATOR, AND THE BELT DRIVE, AND THE HEADERS, THERE'S SOMETHING I WANT TO TAKE CARE OF FIRST. CARS FROM THIS ERA, WHETHER THEY'RE MUSTANGS OR OTHERWISE, THEY TEND TO HAVE A LOT OF HOLES HERE IN THE ENGINE BAY, AND YOU COULD WELD THEM UP, BODY WORK, AND PAINT THEM, BUT THAT'S A LOT OF WORK. BESIDES, WE'VE ALREADY PAINTED OUR ENGINE BAY. SO WE'VE GOT JUST THE FIX. THESE ARE ALUMINUM BLOCK OFF PANELS FROM SCOTT ROD FABRICATIONS. THEY MAKE THEM IN BLACK ANODIZED, THE WAY WE HAVE THEM, OR EVEN NATURAL ALUMINUM, OR STEEL IF YOU WANT TO WELD THEM IN. NOW THEY DO NEED TO BE TRIMMED UP A LITTLE BIT ON THE EDGES HERE TO GET THEM TO FIT NICE AND TIGHT, BUT THEN THEY'RE PRETTY EASY TO INSTALL. AFTER WE'VE TRIMMED THE PANEL TO FIT AND MARKED WHERE THE HOLES NEED TO BE, WE'LL DRILL, AND TO HOLD THEM IN PLACE FOR INSTALLATION WE'RE USING SOME CLECOS. IF YOU DON'T HAVE THOSE YOU CAN USE REGULAR SHEET METAL SCREWS FOR THIS PROCESS.

ONCE WE GET IT HELD IN SEVERAL PLACES WE CAN START INSTALLING THE POP RIVETS, AND WE'LL REPEAT THAT UNTIL ALL THE HOLES ARE RIVETED.

ALL RIGHT, WELL WE'VE GOT ALL OF OUR BLOCK OFF PLATES INSTALLED, AND ALL THOSE UGLY HOLES COVERED UP. NOW IT'S TIME TO MOVE ON TO GETTING SOME OTHER STUFF INSTALLED IN OUR ENGINE BAY HERE, STARTING WITH THE HEADERS, BUT BEFORE I GET THOSE IN THERE'S ONE MORE THING I WANT TO INSTALL, BUT I'VE GOT TO GET THE CAR UP IN THE AIR TO DO IT.

WELL YOU PROBABLY ALREADY GUESSED THAT IT'S THE STARTER THAT I WANT TO INSTALL BECAUSE ESPECIALLY WITH LONG TUBE HEADERS AND A LARGER SUMP OIL PAN THERE COULD BE SOME CLEARANCE ISSUES, BUT THAT SHOULDN'T BE A PROBLEM FOR US BECAUSE WE'RE GOT THIS CONTOUR STARTER FROM PERTRONIX. WE SELECTED IT IN POLISHED ALUMINUM. IT'S A HIGH TORQUE STARTER. SO IT'LL HANDLE ALL THAT COMPRESSION THAT OUR 427 WINDSOR'S MAKING, BUT ALSO IT'S GONNA KEEP THE COMPONENT SAFE FROM HEAT, AND YOU CAN ACTUALLY ADJUST IT HERE. YOU CAN CLOCK THIS BRACKET. THAT WAY YOU CAN CLEAR THE OIL PAN AND THE HEADERS.

WE'RE JUST GONNA INSTALL IT THE WAY IT COMES IN THE BOX TO START, AND THEN MAKE ADJUSTMENTS IF NEEDED.

WELL FOR OUR HEADERS WE PICKED THESE TWO INCH PRIMARY, STAINLESS STEEL, FROM TRICK FLOW THAT WE GOT FROM SUMMIT RACING. THEY DO HAVE TWO INCH PRIMARIES BUT THEY ALSO HAVE A THREE AND A HALF INCH COLLECTOR. NOW WE DON'T NEED THAT LARGE OF A COLLECTOR. THREE INCH IS GONNA BE JUST FINE, BUT WE'LL WORRY ABOUT THAT LATER ON. THESE ARE ACTUALLY FOR DRAG RACING, AND AS THEY SAY, IF YOU'RE GONNA MAKE BIG POWER YOU NEED BIG HEADERS. SEE IF THESE THINGS FIT.

[ buzzer ] NOW AS YOU CAN SEE, THIS COLLECTOR HERE IS SO BIG IT WON'T FIT DOWN IN THERE, BUT LUCKILY THIS IS A SLIP OFF COLLECTOR. SO I'M GONNA TAKE THAT OFF, AND I CAN SEE THAT THE STARTER STICKS OUT A LITTLE BIT TOO MUCH DOWN THERE. SO I'M GONNA GO AHEAD AND TAKE IT BACK OFF AND ROTATE IT UP, AND THEN WE'LL TRY THEM AGAIN. TWO BOLTS HOLD THE COLLECTOR ON. SO WE'LL JUST REMOVE THOSE AND SLIP IT OFF.

WE'RE ALSO GONNA GO AHEAD AND GRAB THE STARTER, REMOVE THE TWO BOLTS THAT HOLD THE FLANGE TO THE HOUSING, ROTATE IT WHERE WE THINK IT WILL CLEAR, AND REINSTALL THE BOLTS. WITH THE STARTER BACK IN, WE'LL TRY TO FIT THE HEADER AGAIN.

[ metal clanging ]

[ buzzer ]

(MARC)>> LET'S TRY IT FROM THE BOTTOM. [ buzzer ]

(MARC)>> NOPE!

[ buzzer ]

(MARC)>> LET'S TRY SOMETHING ELSE. I'M GONNA TRY REMOVING THE ENGINE MOUNT NUT FROM THE KMEMBER. THEN JACK UP ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE ENGINE WITH THE POLE JACK. THEN WE'LL PULL THE MOUNT ITSELF OUT AND SEE IF THERE'S ENOUGH ROOM NOW.

IT TAKES A LITTLE WIGGLING BUT... [ metal clanging ]

(MARC)>> SUCCESS!

(MARC)>> HEY EVERYBODY, WELCOME BACK. DURING THE BREAK I FINISHED GETTING THE PASSENGER SIDE HEADER INSTALLED, AND IT WAS QUITE A BIT OF WORK, BUT THE DRIVER'S SIDE ACTUALLY WENT IN PRETTY EASILY. SO IT'S TIME TO MOVE ON TO SOMETHING ELSE. WHAT I WANT TO DO NEXT IS MEASURE FOR THIS DRIVESHAFT. NOW I WENT AHEAD AND GOT THE REAR END COMPRESSED ALL THE WAY UP WHERE RIDE HEIGHT'S GONNA BE. NOW I'VE GOT THIS YOKE THAT AMERICAN POWERTRAIN INCLUDED WITH THE KIT, CAUSE THEY'RE GONNA ACTUALLY USE THIS TO MAKE OUR DRIVESHAFT. WE JUST NEED TO GET IT INSTALLED, DO SOME MEASURING. FIRST THING WE'RE GONNA DO IS WE'RE GONNA GET OUR YOKE AT OPERATING POSITION, WHICH IS GONNA BE FULLY SEATED, BOTTOMED OUT RIGHT THERE, AND THEN BRING IT BACK ABOUT ONE INCH, AND THAT'S WHERE OUR OPERATING POSITION'S GONNA BE. THAT'S WHERE WE'RE GONNA USE OUR MEASUREMENT. TO TAKE THIS MEASUREMENT PROPERLY YOU WANT TO MEASURE FROM THE CENTER OF THE BORE ON BOTH THE REAR AND FRONT. 46 INCHES EVEN. RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE BORE. NOW ANOTHER MEASUREMENT WE NEED TO TAKE IS GONNA BE THE LENGTH OF THE YOKE. THAT'S GONNA BE FROM THE END OF THE YOKE WHERE IT GOES IN THE TRANSMISSION TO THE CENTER OF THE BORE HERE. FROM HERE TO HERE. NOW I DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT TAKING THAT MEASUREMENT BECAUSE I'M ACTUALLY GONNA SEND THIS YOKE BACK TO AMERICAN POWERTRAIN TO USE THIS TO MAKE OUR DRIVESHAFT, BUT THERE'S ONE MORE THING WE NEED TO MEASURE. WE NEED TO MEASURE FOR THE SIZE OF UJOINT NEEDED AT THE PINION YOKE BY MEASURING THE WIDTH OF THE JOINT AS WELL AS THE WIDTH OF THE CAP. NOW ACCORDING TO THOSE MEASUREMENTS WE NEED A 13-50 UJOINT, BUT I ALREADY KNEW THAT BECAUSE THAT'S THE YOKE I ORDERED WHEN I ORDERED THE REAR END FROM MOSIER, BUT IF YOU'RE STARTING FROM SCRATCH YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE YOU MEASURE THAT UJOINT WHEN YOU ORDER YOUR DRIVESHAFT. NOW WE'RE RUNNING OUT OF TIME TODAY BUT THERE'S A LOT OF OTHER STUFF I WANT TO GET DONE ON THIS MUSTANG HERE REAL SOON. GOTTA FIGURE OUT WHAT I'M GONNA DO ABOUT A FUEL SYSTEM TO SUPPORT 600 HORSEPOWER. I'M CHOMPING AT THE BIT TO GET THE EXHAUST INSTALLED CAUSE I'VE GOT SOMETHING REALLY COOL PLANNED FOR THAT, BUT I THINK THE NEXT THING I'M GONNA DO WOULD BE LIKE THE BELT DRIVE AND THE COOLING SYSTEM. THAT'S GONNA HAVE TO WAIT UNTIL NEXT TIME.

'80'S CARS ARE COMING INTO THE LIMELIGHT AS EARLIER MODELS BECOME MORE RARE AND EXPENSIVE, AND ONE OF THE COOLEST CARS FROM THAT ERA IS THE BUICK GRAND NATIONAL, BUT IT'S ALSO ONE OF THE HARDEST TO FIND PARTS FOR. CLASSIC INDUSTRIES HAS STARTED PRODUCING GRAND NATIONAL COMPONENTS, AND ONE EXAMPLE IS THIS HOOD. IT'S MANUFACTURED TO FACTORY SPECS, INCLUDING THE ORIGINAL LOOK AND STEEL UNDER STRUCTURE. SO YOU CAN RESTORE THAT GNX YOU'VE ALWAYS WANTED OR BUILD A TRIBUTE OUT OF A REGAL IF THAT'S YOUR GOAL. EITHER WAY CLASSIC INDUSTRIES WILL HELP YOU GET THERE.

(TOMMY)>> IF YOU HAVE A LATE MODEL GM PRODUCT WITH A THREE POINT EIGHT LITER VSIX IN IT, CHANCES ARE YOU'VE HEARD THAT THEY CAN HAVE SOME TIMING PROBLEMS, OR EXPERIENCE THE ISSUES YOURSELF. NOW AVAILABLE FROM POWERTRAIN PRODUCTS ARE GM THREE POINT SIX LITER ENGINES TO FIT CHEVY, CADILLAC, AND BUICK APPLICATIONS. THESE ARE ALL BUILT TO FACTORY SPECS USING OEM COMPONENTS. ALL THE ORIGINAL FAULTS LIKE THE TIMING ISSUES HAVE BEEN CORRECTED, AND IT COMES WITH A FOUR YEAR PARTS AND LABOR WARRANTY. NOW WE'RE ALL OUT OF TIME WITH WHAT WE'RE DOING NOW, AND I'VE GOT A WHOLE BUNCH OF BLOCKING THAT I STILL NEED TO DO, BUT IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT WHAT YOU'VE SEEN ON THE SHOW TODAY YOU GUYS GO TO THE WEB AND CHECK US OUT AT POWERNATION TV DOT COM. WE'LL HOLLA AT Y'ALL LATER.
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