Detroit Muscle Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

Dupli-Color
Destroy rust on contact with Dupli-Color Rust Fix. It sprays on clear and turns into a black metal-protecting coating to fight future rust from forming. Rust Fix is specially formulated to be used with body filler and fiberglass.
Edelbrock
These Edelbrock Performer RPM aluminum cylinder heads feature threaded inserts in the rocker studs and exhaust manifold bolt holes for superior strength and durability. They also feature hardened seats, bronze valve guides, and fully machined valve cover rails for a more consistent gasket seal. They offer improved power throughout the rpm range for greater throttle response and top-end horsepower.
Lincoln Electric
The Official Welding Supplier of Detroit Muscle
Matco Tools
Matco is the Official Tool Supplier to Detroit Muscle
Permatex
Spray Nine’s Heavy-Duty Cleaning, Degreasing and Disinfecting action tackles the toughest grease, grime, stains and bacteria where others fail.
QA1
1979-1989 Ford Mustang Handling Suspension Kits
The Industrial Depot
Tools, Hardware, And Shop Supplies

Episode Transcript

(NARRATOR)>> TODAY ON DETROIT MUSCLE PROJECT "SYDEWINDER" IS IN DIRE NEED OF AN ENGINE BAY MAKEOVER. SO WE'LL GIVE HER ONE. THEN IT'S TIME TO UPGRADE THAT '80'S ERA SUSPENSION TO MAKE HER NIMBLE.

(TOMMY)>> HEY Y'ALL, WELCOME TO DETROIT MUSCLE. NOW WHEN YOU HEAR THAT TERM YOU'RE PROBABLY THINKING WE'RE GONNA WORK ON SOMETHING OLD, LIKE OUR '69 DODGE CHARGER PROJECT, BUT TODAY WE'RE GONNA SHIFT GEARS JUST A BIT AND ACTUALLY WORK ON SOMETHING OUT OF THE '80'S, THIS FOX BODY MUSTANG.

(MARC)>> YEAH, LAST TIME WE TOOK THE ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION OUT, AND WE'VE GOT ANOTHER ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION TO GO IN, BUT BEFORE WE DO THAT WE WANT TO REPLACE THE KMEMBER AND THE FRONT SUSPENSION. WE ALSO WANT TO GO AHEAD AND GET THIS ENGINE BAY CLEANED UP A BIT, GET RID OF WHAT WE DON'T NEED, AND CLEAN UP THE SHEET METAL AND GIVE IT A PAINT JOB. WE'RE CALLING THIS "PROJECT SYDEWINDER" AS A BIT OF A NOD TO ITS REPTILIAN HERITAGE. WHEN IT'S ALL BUTTONED UP SHE'LL BE A MEAN LITTLE MACHINE. NOW THERE'S SOME STUFF UNDER HERE THAT WE ARE GOING TO REUSE, LIKE PROBABLY THE BRAKE MASTER AND BOOSTER, AND THE WIPER MOTOR AS WELL, BUT FOR THE MOST PART UNDER HERE THIS STUFF'S ALL GONNA BE TRASH. WE'LL TIDY UP THE WIRES A LITTLE BIT BUT THIS STUFF, LIKE THIS TANK HERE. THIS IS PART COOLANT RESERVOIR AND PART WASHER RESERVOIR FOR THE WINDSHIELD WIPERS. WELL WE'RE JUST GONNA ELIMINATE THE WINDSHIELD WASHERS, AND OUR NEW RADIATOR'S GONNA HAVE A COOLANT RESERVOIR BUILT INTO IT. SO THIS THING'S ALL TRASH. WE'LL DISCONNECT THE WIRING FROM THE IGNITION BOX AND GET IT OUT OF THE WAY, FOLLOWED BY THE FRONT LAMP HARNESS AND THE CLIPS THAT HOLD THE MAIN HARNESS IN PLACE.

WE'LL GET THE WIPER MOTOR OUT NEXT. THEN GET THE PASSENGER SIDE HARNESS DISCONNECTED AS WELL. THE BRAKE BOOSTER AND MASTER ARE NEXT, FOLLOWED BY THE A/C BOX. WE'LL GET THE PLUGS OUT AS WELL BECAUSE WE WANT IT COMPLETELY CLEAN FOR THE NEXT STEP.

WELL WE'VE GOT THE ENGINE BAY STRIPPED OUT SO WE CAN CLEAN ALL OF THIS OUT, BUT BEFORE WE DO THAT WE WANT TO BLOCK OFF SOME OF THESE HOLES IN THE FIREWALL BECAUSE THEY GO INTO THE INSIDE OF THE CAR AND WE DON'T WANT CLEANER AND WATER TO GET IN THERE. SO WE'LL JUST GET INSIDE THERE, TAPE THEM OFF FROM THE INSIDE, AND START SCRUBBING.

WE'RE USING DUCT TAPE BECAUSE IT'S SUPER STICKY, AND WE'RE NOT WORRIED ABOUT ANY RESIDUE THAT IT MAY LEAVE BEHIND ON THE INSIDE. WE'RE ALSO GOING TO USE OUR SHOP VACUUM TO GET THE LOOSE DEBRIS, LIKE LEAVES, OUT OF THE WAY FIRST.

THEN WE'LL SCRAPE THE HEAVY JUNK OUT BEFORE WE START APPLYING ANY CLEANER. THIS STUFF IS ACTUALLY INSULATION THAT USED TO BE PART OF THE IGNITION MODULE, BUT MELTED OUT OVER THE YEARS AND SETTLED HERE. WE'RE GONNA USE SPRAY NINE HEAVY DUTY CLEANER AND DEGREASER TO HELP BREAK UP ALL THE OLD GREASE AND GRIME THAT HAVE COLLECTED IN OUR MUSTANG'S ENGINE BAY FOR THE PAST 36 YEARS. THEN WE CAN GET TO SCRUBBING. WE FOUND THAT BATHROOM CLEANING BRUSHES WORK GREAT FOR THIS, ALONG WITH SOME GOOD OLE FASHIONED ELBOW GREASE.

ONCE WE WIPE THE CLEANER AWAY THE FACTORY COATING IS REVEALED. THIS TAKE SOME TIME BUT YOU CAN SEE HERE THAT IT'S REALLY CUTTING THROUGH THAT THAT OLD BUILT UP GREASE.

NOW WE'LL WIPE IT ALL DOWN WITH SOME PLAIN OLE HTWOO TO REMOVE ALL THE CLEANER.

WELL WE'VE GOT OUR ENGINE BAY ALL CLEANED UP NOW AND PREPPED, AND NOW WOULD REALLY BE A GOOD TIME TO ROLL THIS THING INTO THE BOOTH, MASK THE CAR OFF, AND THEN START SPRAYING, BUT WE FOUND A COUPLE OF ISSUES. ONE, RIGHT HERE WHERE THE BATTERY BOX WAS, LOOKS LIKE MAYBE SOME BATTERY ACID LEAKED DOWN AND RUSTED THE FRAME RAIL HERE. SO WE NEED TO CLEAN THAT RUST OUT A LITTLE BIT, BUT THAT SHOULDN'T TAKE TOO LONG.

(TOMMY)>> YEAH WE CAN ADD SOME PREP TO IT AND NEUTRALIZE THAT STUFF. ALSO WHILE WE WERE AT IT, WELL WE NOTICED THAT STEVIE WONDER HAD TRIED HIS HAND AT DOING SOME WELDING AND THAT'S JUST NOT GONNA WORK. ALSO THE RADIATOR SUPPORT DOWN HERE ON THE BOTTOM HAS BEEN PUSHED BACK AND WE'RE GOT TO FIX THAT, AND I'VE GOT A TOOL THAT'LL JUST DO THE JOB AND I'M NOT TALKING ABOUT MARC.

(MARC)>> WHAT'S THAT SUPPOSED TO MEAN?

(TOMMY)>> Y'ALL KNOW WHAT I MEAN.

(MARC)>> MY DAD HAS ALWAYS TOLD ME TO USE THE RIGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB, BUT A LOT OF TIMES WE JUST GRAB THE NEAREST TOOL AND MAKE IT WORK, OR WE'VE CREATED A BAD HABIT OF USING THE WRONG TOOL FOR THE JOB, AND I'M TALKING ABOUT MYSELF AS WELL. PROBLEM IS NOT ONLY ARE WE MAKING IT HARDER ON OURSELVES BY USING THE WRONG TOOL BUT THERE'S ALSO RISK OF GETTING HURT, AND A SHOP ENVIRONMENT IS DANGEROUS AS IS WITHOUT THE ADDED RISK OF USING THE WRONG TOOL. HERE ARE SEVERAL TOOLS THAT ARE TYPICALLY USED IMPROPERLY, ALONG WITH THE CORRECT TOOL FOR THE JOB. THE FIRST AND MOST OBVIOUS WOULD HAVE TO BE A FLAT HEAD SCREWDRIVER. THIS TOOL CAN DO JUST ABOUT ANYTHING RIGHT? WELL NOT EXACTLY. THIS THING IS MADE TO ONLY LOOSEN AND TIGHTEN SCREWS, PERIOD, BUT A LOT OF TIMES YOU WILL MISTAKE THIS FOR A PRY BAR. PROBLEM IS THE MATERIAL THAT IT'S MADE OF IS NOT STRONG ENOUGH, AND YOU CAN BREAK OFF THE TIP OR EVEN THE SHAFT. SO YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU USE AN ACTUAL PRY BAR. PROBLEM IS MOST PRY BARS ARE TOO BIG FOR A SMALL PRY JOB BUT MOST COMPANIES MAKE A SMALL PRY BAR LIKE THIS ONE FROM MATCO. ANOTHER TOOL THE SCREWDRIVER IS MISTAKEN FOR IS A PUNCH. AGAIN, IF YOU PUT THE TIP AGAINST SOMETHING THAT'S STUCK AND START HAMMERING YOU COULD BREAK THE SCREWDRIVER AND RISK INJURY TO YOURSELF. DON'T DO THAT! INVEST IN A NICE SET OF PUNCHES LIKE THIS ONE. MATCO OFFERS THIS CHISEL AND PUNCH SET, WHICH CAN HANDLE MOST ANY JOB IN THE SHOP. THE NEXT TWO COULD BE THE RIGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB DEPENDING ON THE SCENARIO. IF YOU DON'T KNOW THE SIZE OF THE HEAD OF A NUT OR BOLT IT'S EASY JUST TO GRAB THE ADJUSTABLE WRENCH AND GET TO PULLING. THE PROBLEM IS THE JAWS ON THIS WRENCH DON'T GRIP THE HEAD OF A NUT OR BOLT AS COMPLETELY AS THE BOXED END OF A WRENCH OR A SOCKET. SO IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE WRENCH OR A SOCKET, OR THE HEAD OF THE BOLT OR NUT IS DISTORTED IN SOME WAY, THEN THE ADJUSTABLE WRENCH IS AN OKAY CHOICE. WELL HERE'S TOMMY'S FAVORITE, THE LOCKING JAW PLIERS. NOW THESE THINGS ARE HANDY BUT SHOULD NOT BE YOUR FIRST CHOICE WHEN REMOVING A NUT OR BOLT. THEY'LL GRIP IT FOR SURE, BUT ONCE YOU REMOVE WHATEVER IT IS YOU GRABBED WITH THESE THEY'LL USUALLY HAVE TO GET THROWN IN THE TRASH. THIS SHOULD BE RESERVED FOR A JOB THAT CAN'T BE DONE WITH A WRENCH OR A SOCKET, LIKE A RUSTY BOLT HEAD OR NUT. NOW THESE THINGS ARE A LAST RESORT AND OFTEN ACCOMPANY A TORCH. ANOTHER BIG ONE IS USING A REGULAR OPENED IN WRENCH AS A LINE WRENCH. ESPECIALLY ON OLDER CARS, THIS IS A SURE FIRE WAY TO STRIP A TUBE NUT ON A BRAKE LINE OR A FUEL LINE. SO INVEST IN A SET OF LINE WRENCHES LIKE THESE. THEY'LL SAVE YOU LOTS OF HEADACHES AND MONEY IN THE LONG RUN. THE POINT IS MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB. THAT WAY YOU DON'T PUT YOURSELF OR YOUR TOOLS AT RISK.

(NARRATOR)>> COMING UP WE'LL STRAIGHTEN THAT RADIATOR SUPPORT. THEN WE'LL BUST OUT THE SPRAY GUN AND GET THE ENGINE BAY SLICKED UP REAL NICE.

(TOMMY)>> HEY Y'ALL, GLAD YOU MADE YOUR WAY BACK. NOW WE'RE IN THE MIDDLE OF WORKING ON OUR MUSTANG HERE AND IT'S GOT A LITTLE BIT OF A TWEAK ON THE RADIATOR SUPPORT. SO WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO DO A LITTLE BIT OF PULLING AND PUSHING. WHAT WE'RE GONNA BE USING IS THIS COOL LITTLE PNEUMATIC TOOL THAT WE GOT THAT'S GOT FIVE AND A QUARTER TONS OF POWER. SO LET'S GET STARTED. WHAT WE'RE GONNA WANNA DO IS APPLY SOME PRESSURE PRETTY MUCH IN THIS FORM, BUT YOU CAN SEE THAT THAT SWAY BAR'S IN THE WAY. SO WE NEED TO GET IT MOVED.

(MARC)>> FEAR NOT SIR TOM, FOR I HAVE THE TOOL TO SOLVE YOUR PROBLEMS, BUT I NEED THE CAR IN THE AIR THOUGH.

(TOMMY)>> LET ME SEE WHAT I CAN DO.

(MARC)>> THANKS.

(TOMMY)>> WHENEVER YOU'RE DOING SOMETHING LIKE THIS, YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT THE LOCATION THAT YOU'RE PUSHING OR PULLING FROM IS SOLID. NOW WE'RE GONNA BE PRIMARILY PUSHING AGAINST THE KMEMBER. SO WE SHOULD BE FINE, AND WITH THE RADIATOR SUPPORT BEING KINDA FLIMSY, WELL WE SHOULDN'T RUN INTO ANY KIND OF ISSUES. NOW WE'VE GOT A HOOK TYPE FORK THING HERE ON THE BACK AND A BIG RUBBER PAD ON THE FRONT, AND WHAT THIS WILL HELP DO ON THE RUBBER PAD IS THAT HELPS TO DISTRIBUTE THE LOAD ACROSS HERE. IF YOU USE JUST SOMETHING REAL SMALL AND ROUND, WELL YOU'RE LIABLE TO MAR UP THE SHEET METAL AND WE DON'T WANT TO DO THAT.

WITH SOME PRESSURE ON THAT LOWER RADIATOR SUPPORT WE CAN START MESSAGING THE DISTORTED METAL. I'M GONNA NEED TO PRY UP FROM THE INSIDE OF THAT BOX IF I COULD.

[ hammer tapping metal ]

(TOMMY)>> A LITTLE MORE PRESSURE WITH OUR POWER TOOL...

...A LITTLE MORE STRAIGHTENING WITH THE HAMMER AND DOLLY, AND THEN SOME MORE PUSHING AGAIN, AND SOME MORE HAMMERING WITH THE DOLLY AGAIN. [ hammer tapping metal ]

(TOMMY)>> LET'S JUST SEE HOW STRAIGHT THAT IS NOW. OH YEAH, CAN'T GET MUCH CLOSER THAN THAT.

(MARC)>> WELL SINCE TOMMY'S GOT OUR RADIATOR SUPPORT ALL STRAIGHTENED OUT I'M GONNA MOVE TO GETTING THIS RUST OUT OF HERE. I'M GONNA USE THIS METAL BLASTER RIGHT HERE, GET THE RUST OUT, AND THEN I'M GONNA SEAL IT. [ grinder spinning ]

(MARC)>> THE IDEA HERE IS TO GET ALL THE VISIBLE RUST OUT BECAUSE WE'RE GONNA COME BACK OVER IT WITH A NEUTRALIZER LATER TO PREVENT ANY MORE CORROSION. [ grinding metal ]

(MARC)>> WE'RE ALSO GOING TO GRIND DOWN THOSE BUBBLE GUM WELDS ON THE SWAY BAR MOUNTS WITH OUR ROCK WHEEL. THEN WE'LL SWITCH TO THE ROLL LOCK GRINDER TO SMOOTH IT OUT. [ grinding metal ]

(MARC)>> NOW WE GOT MOST OF THE RUST OUT WITH THAT WIRE WHEEL, BUT WE WANT TO MAKE SURE WE NEUTRALIZE ANY RUST THAT'S LEFT, AND TO DO THAT WE'RE GONNA USE THIS DUPLICOLOR RUST FIX TO KEEP IT FROM COMING BACK. THIS STUFF SPRAYS ON CLEAR. SO IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO SPRAY ON A COUPLE OF COATS TO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE FULL COVERAGE. YOU'LL KNOW THAT IT'S WORKING BECAUSE IT STARTS TURNING PURPLE AND WILL PROVIDE A GOOD SURFACE TO APPLY YOUR PRIMER.

(TOMMY)>> WELL WE'VE MADE ALL THE REPAIRS UNDER THE HOOD THAT WE'RE GONNA BE DOING. NOW IT'S TIME TO SPRAY ON SOME SHINNY. WE'VE GOT IT ALL CLEANED UP AND WE'RE READY TO MASK. NOW WE'RE NOT GONNA GET VERY ELABORATE WITH TAPING THIS THING OFF. WE'RE JUST PRETTY MUCH TRYING TO KEEP ANYTHING FROM SETTLING ON THE TOP OF IT, AND WE'RE JUST ABOUT THERE. WE'RE GONNA LAY THIS JUST ON THE EDGE CAUSE WE ARE GONNA PAINT THIS THING A LITTLE LATER DOWN THE ROAD.

WE'LL START BY MIXING UP SOME BLACK EPOXY PRIMER. OFF TO THE HARDENER! SOMEBODY NEEDS TO CLEAN THE PAINT ROOM. WHO DOES ALL THE PAINTING AROUND HERE! ( )>> JEREMY BUMPUS!

(TOMMY)>> WELL I FINALLY FOUND THE HARDENER AND THAT GETS MIXED UP, AND AFTER A SHORT INDUCTION TIME WE CAN POUR IT INTO THE GUN. THIS IS A PRIMER EVEN THOUGH IT'S BLACK. WE JUST WANT TO MAKE SURE WE GET FULL COVERAGE BEFORE WE SWITCH TO OUR TOP COAT.

THAT TOP COAT IS ACTUALLY A DURABLE SINGLE STAGE HIGH GLOSS FLEET PAINT THAT WE GOT FROM SINGLE SOURCE. MAN THAT LOOKS NICE! TOO BAD IT'S ON A MUSTANG.

(NARRATOR)>> AFTER THE BREAK IT'S TIME TO MOVE ON TO SOME MAJOR SUSPENSION UPGRADES ON THE OLD FOX BODY.

(MARC)>> HEY EVERYBODY, WELCOME BACK. WELL WE GOT OUR ENGINE BAY ALL CLEANED UP ON OUR FOX BODY MUSTANG HERE AND WE'RE GONNA MOVE ON TO THIS FRONT SUSPENSION. WELL HERE'S THE STOCK FOX BODY FRONT SUSPENSION IN ALL ITS GLORY. NOW FOR 1979 WHEN THE FOX BODY WAS LAUNCHED THIS WAS A GREAT DESIGN WITH A MCPHERSON STRUT AND A COIL SPRING THAT SITS DOWN IN THE AARM, AND OF COURSE ALL OF THESE CARS DID HAVE DISC BRAKES, BUT AS YOU CAN SEE THEY'RE NOT VERY BIG BRAKES. SO THEY'RE NOT REALLY PERFORMANCE ORIENTED. NOW THE GOOD THING ABOUT THIS DESIGN IS THERE'S A LOT OF AFTERMARKET PARTS OUT THERE AVAILABLE, WHICH WE'RE GONNA UTILIZE, BUT YOU CAN ALSO BOLT ON LATER MUSTANG PARTS AS WELL, BUT SINCE WE'RE GONNA BE REPLACING ALL OF THIS I'M JUST GONNA RIP IT ALL OUT.

WE'RE GONNA REPLACE THE BRAKE LINES TOO. SO NO NEED TO FIGHT THAT RUSTY OLD FITTING, BUT WE DO NEED TO DISCONNECT THE HOSE FROM THE BRACKET. THE CALIPERS CAN BE REMOVED NEXT, WHICH COME OFF WITH TWO BOLTS. THIS IS A GOOD CALIPER DESIGN, WHICH FORD USED ON THESE CARS INTO THE '90'S, BUT IT'S GOT TO GO TO MAKE ROOM FOR SOMETHING BIGGER AND BETTER.

WE'LL GET THE TIE ROD END DISCONNECTED THANKS TO SOME SWEET HAMMERING SKILLS. WELL THE NEXT STEP IS TO GET THIS SPINDLE DETACHED FROM THE STRUT OR THE STRUT DETACHED FROM THE STRUT TOWER ON THE CAR, BUT WE CAN'T JUST START UNBOLTING EVERYTHING BECAUSE THIS COIL SPRING IS UNDER PRESSURE RIGHT NOW AND IF WE JUST TOOK THESE TWO BOLTS OUT OF THE STRUT, WELL THAT SPRING'S GONNA SLING THAT AARM DOWN AND IT'S GONNA COME OUT, AND IT MAY HIT SOMEBODY. SO THE IMPORTANT THING HERE IS TO MAKE SURE WE PUT THE SPRING UNDER PRESSURE WITH THE SCREW JACK HERE. THEN WE CAN TAKE THE BOLTS OUT AND SLOWLY LOWER THE AARM DOWN AND REMOVE THE SPRING.

[ drill spinning ]

(MARC)>> EASY DOES IT SO THINGS DON'T GET TOO EXCITING TOO QUICK.

A LONG PRY BAR WILL FINISH THE JOB.

ALL RIGHT, WELL I GOT THE OTHER SIDE DISASSEMBLED AND THE SPRING OUT AS WELL, AND I ALSO TOOK OUT THE STEERING SHAFT, WHICH GOES BETWEEN THE COLUMN AND THE RACK BECAUSE THAT RACK'S GONNA STAY ATTACHED TO THE KMEMBER THERE, BUT I DO NEED TO GET THE KMEMBER OUT. SO I'M GONNA LOWER THE CAR DOWN UNTIL THE KMEMBER TOUCHES THIS AND GET THE BOLTS OUT.

THERE'S FOUR BOLTS ON EACH SIDE OF THE KMEMBER THAT NEED TO COME OUT, TWO AT THE BACK AND TWO UP FRONT. WITH THOSE OUT WE CAN RAISE THE CAR AND THE KMEMBER STAYS RIGHT WHERE SHE'S AT. WHEN IT COMES TO ALUMINUM CYLINDER HEADS FOR YOUR HOT ROD THERE ARE A BUNCH OF CHOICES OUT THERE, BUT IF YOU WANT AMERICAN MADE BOLT ON POWER THEN EDELBROCK'S PERFORMER RPM LINE IS AN EASY CHOICE. THESE ARE FOR A SMALL BLOCK FORD AND FEATURE A 190cc INTAKE RUNNERS, 202 INCH INTAKE VALVES, THREEEIGHTHS INCH ROCKER STUDS AND HARDENED PUSH ROD GUIDE PLATES. MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE ON THIS SET IS FROM 1,500 TO 6,500 RPM. RIGHT IN THE SWEET SPOT FOR HIGH PERFORMANCE STREET APPLICATIONS.

(NARRATOR)>> STILL AHEAD, IT'S TIME TO ATTACH SOME SHINNY STUFF TO HELP "SYDEWINDER" TURN.

(MARC)>> NOW THAT WE GOT ALL OF OUR FACTORY SUSPENSION OUT FROM UNDERNEATH OUR FOX BODY WE'RE GONNA TAKE A LOOK AT THE NEW STUFF THAT WE'RE GONNA BE INSTALLING. WE DECIDED TO GO WITH THE LEVEL THREE HANDLING KIT FROM QA ONE, WHICH COMES WITH EVERYTHING YOU SEE HERE ON THE TABLE FOR THE FRONT ALONG WITH AN ENTIRE KIT FOR THE REAR, WHICH WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU LATER, BUT THE CENTER PIECE OF THE FRONT IS THIS TUBULAR KMEMBER RIGHT HERE. IT'S MADE OF A HIGH STRENGTH LOW ALLOY STEEL, WHICH MAKES IT LIGHT WEIGHT. THIS THING ONLY WEIGHS ABOUT 22 POUNDS, WHICH IS QUITE A BIT LIGHTER THAN STOCK. THIS THING BOLTS RIGHT INTO THE STOCK LOCATION BUT IT HAS SOME OTHER FEATURES TOO, LIKE THIS SLOTTED PICK UP POINT HERE FOR THE STEERING RACK IN CASE YOU HAVE A DEEP PAN OR YOU WANT TO KEEP YOUR RIDE HEIGHT REALLY LOW. THEY ALSO RAISED THE PICK UP POINTS FOR THE AARMS, WHICH ALLOWS YOU TO LOWER THE CAR BUT STILL KEEP YOUR ROLL CENTER THE SAME. ANOTHER COOL THING, THESE BRACKETS HERE FOR THE MOTOR MOUNTS, WELL THESE ARE INTERCHANGEABLE. THEY JUST BOLT IN HERE. THESE ARE FOR A WINDSOR, BUT THEY ALSO OFFER THEM FOR MODULAR FORD OR AN LS FI YOU WANT TO GO THAT ROUTE. THE KIT ALSO COMES WITH THIS SWAY BAR HERE. IT'S LARGER THAN STOCK. SO IT'S STRONGER, BUT IT'S HOLLOW. SO IT'S LIGHTER WEIGHT. ALSO INCLUDED IN THE KIT ARE THESE ADJUSTABLE AARMS, WHICH HAVE QA ONE'S ADJUSTABLE BALL JOINTS INTEGRATED, AND THEY COME WITH SOLID ROD ENDS FOR THE MOUNTS, WHICH ACTUALLY ELIMINATES THE FLEX NORMALLY ASSOCIATED WITH RUBBER OR POLYURETHANE MOUNTS. THE KIT ALSO HAS THESE COIL OVER STRUTS INCLUDED. WHAT'S COOL ABOUT THIS IS IT INTEGRATES THE SPRING INTO THE STRUT, MAKING IT A TRUE COIL OVER, BUT THEY'RE ALSO ADJUSTABLE UP TO AN INCH AND A HALF LOWER THAN STOCK. NOW THIS IS A 200 POUND SPRING THAT COMES WITH THE KIT, BUT IF YOU WANT A DIFFERENT WEIGHT YOU CAN JUST SWAP THEM OUT LATER. THEY'RE PRETTY EASY TO SWAP OUT. WHAT MAKES THESE REALLY COOL IS THEY ARE DOUBLE ADJUSTABLE, AND YOU CAN ADJUST COMPRESSION AND REBOUND INDEPENDENTLY AND YOU CAN DO THAT WITH THEM INSTALLED ON THE CAR. SO YOU CAN CHANGE THEM AT ANY TIME. THESE THINGS ARE GOOD FOR THE STREET, OR OPEN TRACK, OR EVEN DRAG RACING. WE'LL LOWER THE CAR DOWN ONTO THE NEW KMEMBER TO GET IT LINED UP IN PLACE, AND THEN REINSTALL OUR ORIGINAL HARDWARE, WHICH WE CLEANED UP AND PAINTED BLACK. [ drill spinning ]

(MARC)>> SINCE THE KMEMBER WAS DESIGNED TO ACCEPT FACTORY STYLE AARMS AS WELL, WE NEED TO INSTALL THE PROVIDED SPACERS WITH OUR SOLID ROD ENDS. SINCE WE DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT ANY BUSHINGS BINDING UP, WE CAN GO AHEAD AND CINCH THEM DOWN TIGHT.

[ drill spinning ]

(MARC)>> NEXT WE'LL GET OUR CASTOR/CAMBER PLATES INSTALLED, STARTING WITH THE STUD PLATE AND SPACERS. THEN THE UPPER PLATE, WHICH WE'LL JUST START BY HAND. THEN THE COIL OVER CAN COME IN FROM THE BOTTOM AND THE NUT GETS INSTALLED. WELL I'M NOT GONNA TIGHTEN ALL OF THAT DOWN JUST YET UNTIL WE GET IT ALL TOGETHER. WE DO HAVE TO INSTALL THE SWAY BAR, BUT ONE CONSPICUOUS THING MISSING IS THAT SPINDLE, AND I'M NOT GONNA REINSTALL THE FOX BODY SPINDLE. I'VE GOT SOMETHING SPECIAL PLANNED FOR THAT, BUT THAT'S GONNA HAVE TO WAIT UNTIL NEXT TIME BECAUSE WE'RE OUT OF TIME. FOR MORE TECH LIKE YOU SAW TODAY GO TO POWERNATION TV DOT COM.
Show Full Transcript

Comments